Jump to content

Avia (C)S-92 colour?


Killingholme

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just purchased a Revell 1/72 ME262-B1 for the whopping price of £1.75 in the modelzone sale. Wondering what to do with it.

The squiggly German camo scares the life out of me, and consequently the single-tone loveliness of the Czech Avia CS-92 seems a very attractive alternative.

When browsing online I see a huge variation in the colour modellers use to represent postwar Czech paint. Some models seem grey, others almost olive green. I have read descriptions of the colour as a 'RLM02-like shade' being used.

So, what's the deal? What colour should I paint my CS-92?

regards,

Will

(btw, I use Humbrol, Revell, or Tamiya acrylics.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At least one was an overall polished metal.

You could always go for a whiffed one - The Czechs tried selling them to Yugoslavia (plus a developed version with BMW003 engines and a revised ie stronger nosegear) and there are persistant rumours that Isreal got one.

I've been toying with a Yugoslavian version since I bought a Frog 262 by mistake a few years back at a show. Overall silver with yellow trainer bands?

Only snag is that the Revell kit represents the nightfighter and the trainer back seat area was different - the nightfighter had the radar guy moved forward and some of the fuel tankage that was lost during the trainer conversion was reinstated behind him. I know when I was batch building this kit in the late '90s I used some of the single seat cockpit tubs for the instructor when I did the trainers. All you need to do is file out the rear cockpit opening to take it further back and then remove the fuse box (square box on the starboard side of the cockpit tub)

The worst thing about the kit is the sit's wrong - tail up when it should be bottom down. The u/c legs are the right length - they're the same as the Hasegawa one - it's the way they attach to the wing. With Hasegawa, they butt join to the wing interior with a handy little guide wall around them. The Revell one has the wheel bays enclosed and the leg attaches to a raised spigot. The way to sort it out is NOT to shorten the leg but instead do the following.

Tape up the wing and then take a drill bit that's just slightly bigger than the attachment hole for the gear leg and then drill right through the wing. Then take off the tape and carve out the top of the wheel bays that are moulded integral with the lower wing, which means you get to display the nice moulded detail inside the fuselage. The gear legs will fit into the pre drilled holes when you come to fit the u/c and you have a small hole on the wing to fill. Sounds complex but it's quite straight forward and will improve the sit enormously.

Hope that helps!

Edited by The wooksta V2.0
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, as promised earlier, here's my pic of the aircraft at Kbely.

s92.jpg

While most references have the paint at RLM 02, it must be kept in mind that they Czechs probably made more than a few batches of it themselves and that could count for variation in tone and hue if they did something a bit different with it in the manufacturing process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one at Kbely is (at least to my eye) much darker green in person than photos (especially flashed photos) tend to show. I was actually surprised at how dark the real thing was when I was there. My flashed photos make it look at lot lighter. It's *much* darker than RLM 02 ever thought about being. I can't say it's 100% authentic to 1947 colors, but the Czechs ought to know, and their other restorations are pretty good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't say it's 100% authentic to 1947 colors, but the Czechs ought to know, and their other restorations are pretty good.

I tend to agree and, as I recall, Kbely's S-199 Mezek was painted the same colour as their S-92.

I suspect it was likely a post war paint mix specific to the Czech air force and the RLM system may be irrelevant to it.

The Czech produced range of Agama paints is probably your best bet for finding precise matches to Czech military colours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RLM 6013 Schilfgrün (reed green) is the colour you need and fortunately Revell has it in their range as, unsurprisingly, Satin # 362 Schilfgrün RAL 6013. I would say their paint is a wee bit light but probably ok for 1/72. The restoration paint only approximates it and the colour has been matched to extant samples from original aircraft.

Nick

Edited by Nick Millman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an aside RAL 6013 ( I have a RAL swatch book next to me here at work) looks a hell of a lot like RAF Light Slate grey too. I say this only because Im painting a vampire in that at the moment. But if you happen to have some Xtracolour or Xtracrlix in that shade, my bet is it would do the trick.

Cheers

jonners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as an aside RAL 6013 ( I have a RAL swatch book next to me here at work) looks a hell of a lot like RAF Light Slate grey too. I say this only because Im painting a vampire in that at the moment. But if you happen to have some Xtracolour or Xtracrlix in that shade, my bet is it would do the trick.

Cheers

jonners

Yikes! Don't tell Mother! Take that book outside away from the interior lighting! RAL 6013 vs MAP Light Slate Grey DE2000 difference is 11.2 where less than 2.0 is a close match. Munsell 9.4 Y 4.9/2.4 vs 9.0 GY 4.2/1.5! Those are measured values. Different hues.

The perception of cool grey-green vs warm grey-green continues to be an issue and the same thing happens with RLM 02. Artificial lighting really compounds the problem. North sky daylight is the best illuminant (not sunlight) and the comparison surfaces should be at 90° to the eyes because an oblique comparison can throw up reflectivity and metamerism issues. Sit with your back to a large north facing window or skylight giving plenty of light and hold the comparisons up in front of your eyes...

Nick

Edited by Nick Millman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yikes! Don't tell Mother! Take that book outside away from the interior lighting! RAL 6013 vs MAP Light Slate Grey DE2000 difference is 11.2 where less than 2.0 is a close match. Munsell 9.4 Y 4.9/2.4 vs 9.0 GY 4.2/1.5! Those are measured values. Different hues.

The perception of cool grey-green vs warm grey-green continues to be an issue and the same thing happens with RLM 02. Artificial lighting really compounds the problem. North sky daylight is the best illuminant (not sunlight) and the comparison surfaces should be at 90° to the eyes because an oblique comparison can throw up reflectivity and metamerism issues. Sit with your back to a large north facing window or skylight giving plenty of light and hold the comparisons up in front of your eyes...

Nick

yeah - I take your point. In the outside overcast light it looks lIke US Olive Drab LOL

Jonners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't say what the nearest availabe paint shade would be but it transpires from Malcolm Lowe's book on the type that the aircraft built by the Czechs were painted in the same paint as Avia used to paint buses in. Apparantly there was a great shortage of aviation paint in Czechoslovakia after the war but the company were awash with this bus paint and used that. As I write Malcolm is contacting some of his friends in the Czech Republic with a view to finding out what the nearest propriety brand of model paint would be. This should be possible as, during the research for his book, Avia discovered that they still had some of the original paint at their factory.

Martin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have literally just had an e-mail from Malcolm Lowe on this subject. The query is now with his Czech contacts and an answer might be forthcoming quicker than anticipated, as apparantly they want to put out a decal sheet on the type, and one of the first questions they will have to resolve is what paint to use for the scheme. Watch this space........

Martin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...