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-ILLIOUCHINE Il 28 BEAGLE


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- As a follow on of this work in progress topic, I had to work on the nose compartment and gunner station.

-As Norman says till now it is just a modelling affair. In fact the fitting of the different parts is so good that it is. built just like a classic kit, the main difference being the cement required.

- The troubles may comes when the time of the assembling of the two fuselage halves, or the matting of the wings to fuselage or the clear parts arrives

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- A place I woudln't have like to seat in
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- I just regret the lack of documentationon the crew stations in regard of the ammount of tubing and wires every where as it was the rule on the machines of these days even if the great amount of green coaming on the walls limit their visible numbers
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-Openning tht navigator and gunner hatches are trouble free but some care has to be taken as the resin may break easily owing to it very fine thickness
Edited by IPMS19
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-The third part of the inside before joining the fuselage halves is the bomb bay.

The parts are numerous which means a very well detailed area, the wiring and plumbing job excepted and as I want to show the bomb bay doors opened I cannot live with an almost naked bomb bay.HPH gives a ful bomb load to hide this but I 'll used them in a last ditch.

I 've found some drawing and a few fragmentary photos but not enough to have a good idea of the thing which were,and on the available books most of the photos show external parts of the beast so I will be very grateful if some one knowing more on this would share his knowledge with me.

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Lovely job, considering buying this kit myself, also being tempted by the 1/32 Walrus!

Just wondering if there's a 'canopy open' option for the pilot's cockpit, or would you have to cut up the closed one?

Edited by hopkp
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Lovely job, considering buying this kit myself, also being tempted by the 1/32 Walrus!

Just wondering if there's a 'canopy open' option for the pilot's cockpit, or would you have to cut up the closed one?

- There is no open option for the pilot canopy so we have to enter a small surgeonnery.To cater for an eventual problem I've asked HPH to send me another canopy ,they sent me a whole clear parts set.

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Lots of video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=%D0%98%D0%BB-28&oq=%D0%98%D0%BB-28&gs_l=youtube.3..0.9969.14920.0.16393.5.5.0.0.0.0.349.995.1j2j1j1.5.0...0.0...1ac.1.9UGsE3v0FYM

Or try to use this world in google or youtube Ил-28 or Илюшин 28

and i got a book for you but it is 180mb. I can upload somewhere

Ivan

PM about book was on the way :)

Edited by tinleeds
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-Well ,another trial, hope it works....

- Some views of the bomb bay, strike camera and only to show the quality of this model the begining of the engines nacelles.I built hundred of kits either plastic, vacu or resin but it is the first time I see such details on a resin kit, even inside the engine nacelle......

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- Please Mr Webmaster delete these two posts ' ll try later
Edited by IPMS19
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So pleased to find this thread which I will be following avidly.....just took the plunge and bought the kit and looking forward to receiving it in due course. :wacko:

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-Well, ltes go for another photo trial, just to show the W I P with the bomb bay, the strike camera and the extent of detail of this kit keepinh in mind it is a resin one, even tne inside of the engine naceles are detailed........

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Just aquired a Trumpeted "1/72" Harbin H5 (Chinese Beagle).

This is now my reference thread :)

I put 1/72 in quotes, as my calculations make it 1/70 -

Trumpeter pilot is in the middle:

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Just aquired a Trumpeted "1/72" Harbin H5 (Chinese Beagle).

This is now my reference thread :)

I put 1/72 in quotes, as my calculations make it 1/70 -

Trumpeter pilot is in the middle:

C6F74AD5-657E-4E1B-A8DA-91F4EF5F011E-893

-Hi John,

I will post another part of my work very soon.I hope my building gives you some hand....Aboiut the pilot from which planet does he comes from ?

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- To continue, it is time to join the fuselage halves before a last glimpse at the cockpit and the forward wheel well and its weight

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- Before centing the halvves I used some tape as a protectiv measure against finger cement prints
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- TH putty used is a mixture of cyano cement and resin powder for the homogeneity of materials before painting
- Here the kit show it resin nature.The fitting of the fuselage halves requires some triming of the inside parts to achieve a correct fit, that is not surprising owing the the extent of details inclued in the fuselage
Edited by IPMS19
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Awesome.

Not brave enough to try resin myself.

- Many people have the same way of thinking about resin kit as you.In fact most modeller triggered by the temptation have already used after market transkit , or only resin pieces.So they are more or less used to this material

- Building a resin kit is like building a round of the mill plastic kit, removing resin flashes if ever, trimming, sanding, drilling; Removing the parts from sprue is easy, I use a Dremel with a circular saw and with a sanding ring then the good old wet sanding paper,For the clear part a dremel or for those a bit hamfisted nail scissors ( watch yoiur wife) before painting don't forget to wash the parts to remove the moulding grease.Then a base coat of neutral colored paint.and it accept every kind of paint

- The main difference is the mandatory use cyano cement with the care surroundind its use .Wearing a dust mask avoid breathing resin powder and it 's all

-Not all resin kits are of the quality of these new HPH kits but appliyng these few rules allow you to have kit you often dream of waiting after the good will of Tamigawa San .Building a resin kit is very enjoyable and rewarding. Resin kit are often expensive, just avoid buying one or two classic kit that every body shows on exhibits table and you show a model nobody or few people can boast of.

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John W nice seats, but it is impossible to build a Beagle from the Trumpeter kit, unless you dont care :)

I got it for £6 :)

Seems to be more filler than plastic at the moment. Needed a break from 1/144 Migs.

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