Slider Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Hi all, Around 10 years ago, I bought the USS Defiant on eBay from the states, with the intent to build it of course. Last summer I decided to finally get started and so I did. But as of yet, not a single part has left the box already. But that's with good reason, because for this project I'm using the known expression: If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! Let me explain my reasoning. I'm not planning on just essembly and painting. I have seen the results online and it's not doing it for me. As a fan of the show back in the day (and still am), I want to represent the studio model as good as I can. So of course, I want to light it. Luckily I also bought the light parts 10 years ago along with the model itself. There are many guides online for lighting, with really awesome results. Seeing Quarky's build on this forum, I just hope I can match the results for myself. But since almost everyone is lighting it, I want to do something extra with it. Now here's the overdoing part: I want to be able to control all the lights from the base/stand. And not just turn them on/off all at once, but much more. I want to control seperate parts individually, like windows, engines, pulse cannons and more. These are the criteria I have set for this build: - Light - Control of light groups. - Not fixed to stand, has to be able to seperate model/stand - Future ideas can still be implemented when model is closed - Special features: ....... I've got an electronic engineer background, designing my own PCB's, components, using microprocessor and compiling own code. Unfortunatly that was also 10 years ago when I last used this knowedge. Past months I have been busy rediscovering this hidden experience and have come a long way. For people interested, I'm using 2 microprocessors (PIC16F887's) for my project. 1 will be placed in the stand, reading switches to control the lights. The other will be placed inside the model, running the lights. Now, the reason I do this, is because of 1 single advantage: UART (serial communication) Those 2 PIC's can communicate with eachother (1-direction) using only 1 wire! Since I want to be able to serperate the model from it's stand, I'll be using a connector. I want this to be a small as possible obviously. I was thinking of using a 3.5mm 3 channel audio plug: - 12Vdc - GND - UART signal If I had used seperate wires for all light groups, I had to use a huge connector, butchering the model. So that was not an option. Writing and testing the code and functions of both PIC's has taken up alot of my time so far. And it's still not finished. I've not even begun to build the actual model. Also, I have 0 experience in this and have to start from scratch. With good tips and common sense it should be ok. Also, I have bought a test model plane from Airfix to learn painting with airbrush. But all of this is, after my electronics have been finalised! And for the special features........I won't give them up for now But it will be special indeed, I have not found any Star Trek model build with them, so I hope to have a first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarky Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) Wow! That sounds like one hell of a build dude! Really looking forward to seeing your progress...will follow with interest! Edited March 22, 2013 by Quarky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picard Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 May I add to the above wow, and add a personel blimey. Really looking forward to this one. Have you ever thought of producing plug in kits for old stupid people like me? I have never got round to starting my big 1/350 kits yet, trying to aquire the skills to do controlled lighting. Have a great build. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrvr6 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 im looking forward to this! is it bad form to watch what somebody else does then blatantly nick the idea for your own build? (i have 2 enterprises to build and when i do i want to light them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slider Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 im looking forward to this! is it bad form to watch what somebody else does then blatantly nick the idea for your own build? (i have 2 enterprises to build and when i do i want to light them) This is the goal of the forum, right? I look for good idea's to use myself also, like Quarky's thread on his method of indirect lighting. @Picard: Let's watch if it all works like I intend, main issue is de code for the microporcessor as of this moment. Once that works well and all, will post it of course. Since that can't really be photographed, I have nothing to actually share yet Maybe my final working test PCB, to give you an indication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarky Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 This is the goal of the forum, right? I look for good idea's to use myself also, like Quarky's thread on his method of indirect lighting. Yup - sure is! I'm pretty sure I picked up the reflective lighting form somewhere else... As a novice in electronics, I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with the lighting of this kit - to me, what you plan to do looks REALLY complicated! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slider Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 I will post a circuit schematic soon, still need to build it. As of yet, it's only in mind head You can also dim your leds manually if you want. Check your own build and maybe there are some leds to bright, compared to others. Maybe you know this next bit already, but I want to explain it nevertheless. Leds, or in your case, led-strips, are designed for a certain amount of current. The current determines the amount of light it will emit. Every led should have a datasheet, which will tell you the maximum amount of current it can handle. Going over that amount, might result in less life-span or even burned out leds. But less current means weaking emitting light. This is the simplest fomula for electronics: V = I x R V = Volt I = Current R = Resistance So, let's say we use 5V and the led is certified for 20mA. 5 = 0,02 x R makes R = 250 Ohm If you want the led burning at half capacity, simply double the restistor, to 500 Ohm. 5 = I x 500 makes I = 0,01A of 10mA. Have the current. Again, maybe this is all a given to many of you, but just mentioning just in case it might be helpfull to somebody. For those led strips, the resistor is already supplied with it. To dim the leds, simple add a resistor on 1 wire to the led strip. The total amount of Ohm will be increased and the leds will emit less. For myself, I'm testing with very bright leds for a special function. Yesterday at half power I nearly burned out my eyes. Don't even dare to test at full strenght haha My test circuit is finished, currently finalising the code. Some small bugs need to be sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarky Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Thanks slider - yes that is useful...I have already had to add some resistors for some of the LED strips as they were too bright and have bought some cheap LED dimmer switches if I think the main lighting will be too bright. As I'm running this model on 12v, I only need to work out the resistor value for the component LEDs I'm using for the nav/strobe and impulse engine lights. I'm interested to see your schematic and circuit build as I just buy a flasher board for my flashing lights that is quite expensive - I did try to build a basic 555 timer circuit and while I got this to work on a breadboard, I couldn't work out how to get it all on to a bit of stripboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slider Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Here is my circuit layout for my project. It's not that complicated, I want to keep it very basic. Top left is the power circuit. Down left is the base circuit and on the right the model circuit. I've only drawn 4 input switches, but ofcourse I can add as many as I have inputs left on U2. Around 30 maximum Same on the right, only drawn 4 leds to illustrate the idea. 2 are connected to digital outputs of U3. 2 others are connected to the PWM outputs of U3. I'm usingtransistors to control the output leds. I could directly connect a led, but the microporocessor has a limited output current. Drawing more would damage it. Each output led represent a group of leds. Like living quarters, engines, cannons, deflector....... So some groups can have many leds, controlled by 1 output of the microprocessor. That would draw way to much current from 1 output directly. Using the transistors I won't have this problem. Also, I could supply some leds with maybe 12V, instead of 5V. And it would still not be a problem for the 5V output pin. The 3 wires at the bottom will be connected to the model with a 3.5mm audio plug. VCC (5 or 12v), GND and data. The base stand will hide the wires, on top the 3.5 mm jack. Model will have the contra plug in the bottom. The 2x 4pin headers are for my programmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarky Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Basic?! Well over my head! Looking forward to the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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