Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Well i've emailed Trumpeter direct (as this appears to be a factory problem), though i've had to 'guess' at an email address as their website is shocking for attempting to contact them directly. We will have to see what happens, but i'm not holding my breath.

If anyone has more 'direct' contact details and is willing to share them please PM them to me as I would like to get this finished - it takes up too much space in the shed to stay lying around for long.

:hanging:

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter

Nice start to your kit mate.

I've had the same problem with mine and I hope you have a better time than me, as mines still on the unfinished shelf and has been for the last four years. I bought mine from Hannants and they said I had to get intouch with pocket bond, well I've had a set of decals aswell on hold for even longer as pocket bond don't seem to be interested in getting spares as there's no money in it. I'm well peed off as the harrier is unfinished and I have a 32 nod F-14D that now I have to purchase more decals for, who's to blame for this non duty of care well I hope you get more luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always thought the retailer was responsible for such things as when you bought it the contract of sale was between you and them, and not, for instance, Pocketbond.

Great modelling, by the way.

Graham

Link to comment
Share on other sites

*"Make your own 'push-form' canopy".*

Maybe you can try this technique as your last shot!

tutorialVacuoForm.jpgtranslating:

step 1 - "canopy" = canopy (the original/ cracked one),

"massa de modelar" = white/blue tak (I know... in the picture it looks brown)

"base rígida" = firm foundation

step 2 - "folha de acetato transparente" = clear acetate sheet

"distância de 20cm" = distance of 20cm

"chama de fogão" = any flame/ heat source

step 3 - "folha de acetato transparente aquecida" = heated acetate

"puxar para baixo com firmeza" = firmly push down with both hands

step 4 - "aguarda secar por 10 segundos" = wait for 10 seconds to cool down

step 5 - "recortar nos limites da peça" = cut the edges

step 6 "nova peça" = new part!

Maybe you will need few attempts to have a perfect result but I'm sure it will work!

*Illustration is a courtesy from the Brazilian Scratch-Master Alexandre Rezende

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can plunge-mould blown canopies if you're careful about it. At the last stage after you've pulled the plastic over the form, you have to move your hands down and in to wrap the bottom edges of the canopy form tightly, then hold that position until your plastic hardens. It's best to have the canopy mould filled with plaster or something similar so you don't squash it out of shape while you're holding the plastic to the mould.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shop that sold you the kit should take care of that. its them that sold it to you.

You could also consider a three part former. Make it in three slices, the blown sides and a central part. Once you have done the vac forming pop out the centre part and the sides will follow.

Ian M.

A good tip to others buying expensive kits. Look at all the parts either in the shop before you pay, or as soon as you get it home. maybe I'm lucky but the two times I have found missing/defect parts dong this they have exchanged them with out problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I encountered a similar problem with a Trumpeter 1/48 Su 24 canopy a while back (shortly after the kit was released, can't remember exactly when that was?).

I found an e-mail address on the Trumpeter website, sent a message explaining the problem, and waited.....and waited.....and about two months later, when I had given up on ever getting anything from them, the postman arrived one morning with a small, brown-paper wrapped package with strange stamps on it, containing a full set of clear parts.

You may be lucky yet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Well we are back - thanks to a great seller on ebay 'dawngrocerystore', who i've bought a number of kits from, who supplied a new clear sprue for the Harrier.

So fitted the front canopy and masked

P1010415_zps1e160a8e.jpg

The rear section has a seam down the middle

P1010416_zpsfe7691b9.jpg

So out with the sanding sticks, and sanded it out

P1010417_zps0046e952.jpg

Next was making the main landing gear box - and fitting all the bits of PE

P1010418_zps7ac5dc57.jpg

And the main landing gear - once again bits are replaced with PE

P1010419_zpsa3d90d16.jpg

Back to the main canopy - sanding off the molded on MDC on the inside

P1010420_zpse3db8fb2.jpg

Then fitted an Orion Vinyl MDC and a quick dip in Klear

P1010421_zps0dc07449.jpg

Finally fitted the canopy to the resin canopy frame and added the PE mirrors and handles.

P1010422_zps81a9f102.jpg

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today's work on the Harrier - first making the interior of the air brake - adding all the PE again.

P1010424_zps56f7e217.jpg

Then closed up the fuselage

P1010425_zpsfe546c46.jpg

Fitted and blended in the nosecone - this was slightly more difficult than it should be after I stood on the nose cone and squashed it a bit :banghead:

P1010426_zps80252a90.jpg

Then added the fin and elevators, once again adding all the little PE bits

P1010427_zps1c949bf8.jpg

Which leaves me with this

P1010428_zps1233cec4.jpg

Then slotted the wing in place just to see where it looks and how the fit is

P1010429_zpse64e2875.jpg

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today's work on the Harrier - first masked off the wheel bays and intakes with sponge cut to size then moistened with Vallejo liquid mask - that gets the sponge tacky and it then sticks in place.

P1010434_zpsbbaf20fc.jpg

P1010435_zps4b051d1d.jpg

Then added the IFR probe and the flaps and ailerons

P1010436_zps422260fa.jpg

Made up the pylons - Eduard's PE has you fill the pylons and move where the sway braces go (and of course add some PE), which does seem to make the position of the ordinance better.

P1010437_zpse8ed888b.jpg

However that causes an issue with the fuel tanks - had to trim off the front mounting point and make a new version using plasticard and my punch and die set so that it would match up with the new sway braces

P1010438_zps4aa80958.jpg

Then on with primer - it will need sanding back but it's not too bad at all especially given how much fettling of the plastic has gone on for the PE

P1010439_zps6a7697fd.jpg

Now the important question - Loadout - not being a modern jet kind of guy it's a bit outside of my area

I propose to have the loadout from left to right as :

AIM-9L -> AGM-65 -> Tank -> centerline empty -> Tank -> TER + Mk 82's -> AIM-9L

What is confusing me is whether it needs the designator pod, and if so where it can go ?

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats some nice work on a very impressive kit- I must admit I hadn't noticed Trumpeter release these-

As for your query, I don't think you need a designator for that load, as the Mk82 are unguided, and of the Maverick variants only the AGM-65E needs a laser designator for guidance, the rest are as far as i recall Electro-Optical TV or IR seeking missiles.

Waits for corrections!

Good luck with the build, its looking good!

Troffa

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, i am building a smililar model - trumpeter night attack harrier. I bought the Zots decals for reference only and have the decals sheet with me. do you want to try the "blacksheep" squadron markings?http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz221/AndrewBirnie/rev2.jpg

Thanks for the offer, but i'll stick with the kit decals - I really didn't want to to a special scheme ( and I really couldn't face the masking for the canopy black frame ).

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...