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1938 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900 Le Mans.


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Hi all,

my first entry (there may be more??) is the Profil 24 Alfa 8C.

This car was driven by Raymond Sommer and Clemente Biondetti but failed to finish although it completed 219 laps (winner completed 235)

It did manage to record the fastest lap that year so all was not lost.

The kit is predominately resin with some very nice etch spokes wheels and ally rims, it will be almost a shame to spray these gloss black.

Lots of P/E details to complete the exterior. No engine or chassis detail to speak of.

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Regards,

Steve.

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Nice kit, there seems to be a lot of resin around in this GB.

It's amazing how the tyres have changed over the last 75 years!

Cheers,

Warren

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Now we*re talking! This is awesome, glad to see this choice of subject. What an effort to race a beast like this for 24 hours on two drivers.

The model should look fantastic when built. Black wheels only make it better IMO. A good friend of mine built it a number of years ago, but using the old Skale Kraft "kit" as base. This was just before P24 came out. It's finished as a pre(?) race version in a darker maroon red with black wheels and looks very impressive. I think there was a debate over what red colour the race car really had, might be worth looking into.

Lookning forward to see this one develop.

Edit: Looking back at model pictures I remember wrong about my friend's model, he didn't paint it as dark as my memory thought, it's a brighter more "italian" red. I don't remember what the result of the paint debate was, I'll have to ask him again.

Edited by Jörgen Stendahl
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Alfa red is a rich "blood" red. I have some of the actual paint here that was used in a very expensive restoration. Cellulose, of course!

Martin

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This is the above paint used on a George Turner 159 Alfa. This one coat of self-etch primer surfacer and two thin coats of cellulose, with the second one wetter. This is after a day, so no more shrinkage. This is the finish without any clear coat and is why I love my cellulose!

Put on with a small spotting gun on 40 PSI.

Martin

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Well, thanks for the colour info. I will be using Zero paints Alfa Rosso. I've used it before and it looks quite accurate to my eye.

I'm sure you will all be able to decide for yourselves when I get the colour on.

Also depends on how well my old Kodak point and shoot digicam represents the model, will try for outdoor pics to give it a chance!

Steve.

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Thanks Martin. It is well known that 2K paint finishes should be used in conjunction with full skin coverage and an air fed mask.

Although I do not have access to an air fed mask, I do make sure all my skin is covered using a paper based white coverall with hood and a very expensive twin filter full face mask.

I also only spray the 2K clear in the garage (I move the GT6 out first of course!)

My risk assessment took in to account the exposure time being about 10 - 15 minutes to clear coat a 1/24 scale car, the PPE I am wearing and the fact that I only use the stuff about 3 or 4 times per year.

It is quite toxic but the worst part is, it will not make you feel ill whilst being exposed. The biggest danger is the carcinogenic effect that uncontrolled exposure brings about.

I do also feel that Steve at Hiroboy does make it clear that this stuff should be used with caution. His website points out that it is for professional use only and every purchase contains a leaflet to make buyers aware of the precautions that should be taken.

Bear in mind that almost any automotive paint supplier will sell this stuff over the counter with no questions asked (well, they do in Peterborough anyway)

Regards,

Steve.

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Well, it's up to you. I wouldn't use it at all. I can't wear masks, so that's that!

I was reliably informed that Hiroboy had been pulled up about his lack of warnings, so maybe he has changed it.

Amongst many good clears on the market, Halford's rattle can stuff is very good, surprisingly. I haven't tried decanting it yet, but will do when the weather warms up. The one occasion I used it from the can after warming the can I was very pleasantly surprised by the fine spray and excellent finish.

Martin

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Well, each to his own I suppose and if you can't wear a mask I would be very careful about spraying anything.

The Halfords clear is something I would never touch again. I have a few models where the Halfords clear has cracked and they are now ruined. It had been suggested that the base coat had not 'gassed out' sufficiently but one of the car bodies had been sitting in a box for nearly 4 months and it still starting cracking after a few months.

I steer clear of it now in case it is something that was beyond my control such as paint composition perhaps.

All the best,

Steve.

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I have had exactly that problem with "acrylics" generally, which is why I try to avoid them. So far the Halford's clear on Halford's paint has worked, but Plastikote crazes itself however you use it since they went from their excellent enamel to the filth they now flog. I threatened them with Trade Descriptions and they sent me three pots of the old stuff that were in the office, provided I kept quiet about it and it was free because they couldn't be found selling a banned substance. Daft sods! With great care to spray half dry thin coats it did the job. It happened to be a perfect match for the slightly off white colour on my 52 year old model boat that I was restoring. Otherwise I wouldn't have used it. I should also say that the very high quality deep red enamel which contrasted the off-white was made for our canal boat by Mark Johnson at Tra-Mar Coatings and went on with a 1" sable brush and glossed up in one coat, so maybe that's the way to go. It was also dry in 1 hour. The same paint weathered four Winters on the ply cabin of our boat with no fading, dulling or weathering.

Cheers,

Martin

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I've used Halfords Universal Clear with no problems. I've just started using Hiroboy's pre thinned gloss clear, is this 2K ready mixed or something different, I spray in the shed with a mask and filtered booth.

The other I have used is Lakeland's Quick Shine similar to Klear.

Cheers,

Warren

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Hi Warren,

I would say that Hiroboy pre-thinned clear is an acrylic based product. (similar to Halfords probably)

2K will cure even in a sealed pot as it undergoes a chemical reaction.

When I use it, it usually cures in about an hour and is rock hard within 24 hours.

Steve.

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That's good to know Steve.

I can certainly recommend it though, it gives a nice glossy finish and is touch dry in less than 30 mins.

Cheers,

Warren

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A start has been made. I have collected a few pics on line and found a couple of period shots (1938 LeMans race)

Looks like the wires will be left natural metal as this is how she looked in the race. Bit dissapointed with that as I was looking forward to having black wheels :weep:

Anyway, at least it will be partially accurate.

Body is prepped and I am going to get some primer on later this afternoon, pics to follow. Wheels are built and look nice but I may put a light coat of silver paint on them to make them look more uniform, undecided at the moment.

I'll post later with some pics.

Steve.

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Gloss paint has always been a bit of a bugbear for me, Best gloss finish I ever got was on a Noix Maachi M39 which I painted with Testors Italian Red gloss and a flat and rather expensive sable I usually only use for watercolour!.

Your '38 Alfa is a gorgeous car, as so many of that era were. I'll follow this build with great interest! Good luck with it.

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