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Tamiya 1/20 Tyrell P34 (six wheeler)


ecsrobin

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So yesterday I was passing the local model shop and it made me want to have a go. the last time I probably made a model was 10years ago and generally i would just glue it all together and then paint it, they all looked pretty average.

So this time im trying to do it properly it may turn out awful but here goes: (All photos taken on my iPhone as the SLR will be a bit overkill)

The kit and extras I purchased:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

What you get:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

Ford DFV Engine Build:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

The manifold was a nightmare to put together almost as hard as bolting the real life one on a DFV!

Just to see what its like:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

A look at the gearbox:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

So then today I had to go out and try and get the paint colours that the shop didn't have, unfortunately nowhere had the colours so I've had to go with Humbrol paint :( But i did pick up a Tamiya weathering kit, ive never used one before but felt a car should look used not all shiny.

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

So I applied some weathering oil and exhaust heat the photo probably doesn't show it up much but you'll see from the earlier image its dulled down and looks more lifelike.

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

And a test fit with the gearbox (parts aren't glued)

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

Total time so far: 8hrs

Total Cost so far: £80

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Brilliant work for the amout of hours you have quoted and not bad pricing too. :wow:

She looks most cool .. Good clean Neat start and the gear box is fantastic. It's the BIZ!!

Way to go Sir.

:thumbsup:

Edited by HOUSTON
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Lovely build of a great kit - will be watching with interest.

I remember my Dad building the 1/12 version of this when I was a kid - loved it then and would love to build again. Saw one sell on eBay for £70 :shutup: will add to my Stash Wish List

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So I've just been away for a few days so not much progress. But the engine is nearly completed just need to get some extra wiring for it and an 8mm screw (i would have thought it would come in the kit but obviously not) and also touch up a couple of places but quite pleased with my attempt.

Here's a few shots of it dry fitted to the chassis.

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

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So over the weekend I've made a small amount of progress. The time was mainly spent driving everywhere trying to find tamiya gun metal as I was sick of using the hum broil equivalent. Eventually I found some in Woking.

The rest of the time was spent masking up the body and seat ready for my first attempt at spray painting.

So I bought a few more paints:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

Everything masked up, my first attempt at masking so not sure if I've done it right but hopefully it does the job:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

And finally everything just after spraying:

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Tyrrell by robinecs, on Flickr

Unfortunately there's a slight run on the front wing. So I guess I'll be sanding that down this week before having another attempt but the seat and spoiler has come out great for a first attempt.

I've lost track of hours spent on this but so far the total cost of the build is: £101.55

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You are making good progress and showing a great ambition with your project, I like that. Keep it up. :thumbsup:

I would like to give a little tip. I'm not sure if you sprayed the body parts laying on that piece of cardboard? It looks a bit like that, but I'm not sure. Anyway, if you did, try to temporarily mount parts to something like a bottle (for the body) and similar solutions, so that you can handle and manouver the parts easier during painting, as it will make it far easier to spray from different angles and reach all areas.

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Great start to a great kit.

Looking at the last photos have you given it a coat of silver or is it blue, I'm finding it difficult to tell in the light conditions.

Jorgen's suggestion of raising the part off the card is a good one, I use bits of spare sprue or bamboo skewers and stock them into a piece of polystyrene.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers,

Warren

Edited by Madmonk
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Bad light I'm afraid. It is blue ill get some better images up shortly.

Yes I sprayed it on the cardboard :( Thankyou for the tip ill try that on my next attempt at the front wing. I have been looking at the tamiya stand that has all the clips and you can turn may make my life a bit easier. Didn't realise how much fun I'd have taking it more seriously. Think I even have an old tamiya GT-one in the loft I want to hunt for but one model at a time I guess.

And Thankyou all for the kind comments. Keeps me wanting to keep working at it.

Edited by ecsrobin
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rattle cans throw paint out at an amazing rate. And gloss paint is the worst. it really does need care, 3-4 light coats and one wetter coat.

i tend to steer away from gloss and use matt paint: much easier to work with and you can put it on thinner so it doesnt ruin fine detail. then cover ti with a nice clearcoat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update and hopefully ill be able to get some advice. I've had to fill a couple of holes on the rear spoiler which I have done and I thought I had blended it in well. But after spraying you can see every little mark possible.

So I'm guessing I should have primed prior to spraying and that would have filled the gaps? And my solution for the painted spoiler? If I use a fine wet and dry and then respray will I get away with it?

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There are a few issues when using filler, and they are often more notable when filling something like a hole in styrene plastic. I'm quite sure this is what you have experienced.


First the filler will shrink a bit over time, especially when it's fresh, it isn't perfectly stable just because it's hard and sandable. This is a much larger problem if it's a 1-part filler you used, but it's also the case with 2-part filler but to a much lesser degree. The key is to wait a bit longer before sanding and also to use a sandable primer/surfacer to get a second chance. And it's the same with the primer, the longer you wait, the more stable and durable the result will be.

Unfortunately there is also a second issue when working with styrene plastic, and that's the slight reaction the plastic can show to different paints, and fillers, and this will be very notable around filled holes, or if you have sanded off some moulded in surface detail. Again the key solution is primer and giving it extra time to settle before sanding.

Now that you have a paint coat on and see these problems, the chance is good that if you give it a light sanding to remove the problem, the remaining paint will act like a barrier and also be more stable (both the underlying filler and the paint will have cured longer) and the new paint coat will not show the same problem.


Give it try. It's all a learning experience. :)

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