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This year I will be going.......(Vallejo) I think!


Tornado

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Keep hearing good things about these paints so going to upgrade from my humbrol to vellejo acrylics...... One of the reasons is because there acrylic and another because the ease of using them in an airbrush. Any cons as to using these paints

Cheers mark

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Model air or color. Air are thinner but still require thinning slightly IMO. I use their thinner but there is a learning curve with them and there are easier paints out there to spray.

I'd try with a couple of colours first to see how you get on.

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Not really any cons regarding their use.

The Model Air range state that they are ready for airbrush use, and as such "will" spray directly from the bottle, but work even better if thinned.

You'll obviously have to find your own preference for thinning etc, personally I use their own thinner/cleaner.

The only real con is that you shouldn't get drawn in by the paint colour names, as these don't bear an awful lot of resemblance to recognised shades.

ie. Medium Sea Grey ISN'T RAF MSG... But having said that, Vallejo have a huge range of paints shades (in Air and Colour) and there will be equivalents to be found.

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I'm a fan of Vallejo, both the color range and the air (which has been said previously, still needs to be thinned for airbrushing). For thinning I just use water.

But Vallejo does seem to be very delicate. No matter what primer I use, Vallejo paint is easy to rub off. It's sturdy enough when you put varnish on top but until then be careful with it.

Yep, some Vallejo colours aren't that accurate and also the semi opaque container doesn't always show up the true colour of the paint inside so sometimes it's difficult to choose exactly the shade you're after, it took me 3 tries to get a 'standard' red.

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Never really sprayed them, have used them to brush paint figures and stuff and they brush nicely if thinned and a little retarder used, but as others have said they are a little delicate if you need to handle the model after.I tend to use Gunze/Tamiya to spray

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The amount of time you'll be.spending un blocking your airbrush and cleaning the stuff off the needle tip, if the thought of doing that doesn't.bother you you'll be fine. If it does then go for Tamiya and Gunze. People.who.use Vallejo will tell you to add this and that to it to stop the problem but isn't that defeating the whole point of using air brush ready paint!

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Funny how things change cos I'm seriously thinking of going back to enamel now that Humbrol have redone their paint range. The only acrylic paint that works for me is Tamiya and Mr Hobby Color, everything else I've had dismal experiences with :D

The amount of time you'll be.spending un blocking your airbrush and cleaning the stuff off the needle tip, if the thought of doing that doesn't.bother you you'll be fine. If it does then go for Tamiya and Gunze. People.who.use Vallejo will tell you to add this and that to it to stop the problem but isn't that defeating the whole point of using air brush ready paint!

Yep pretty much!

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Yep, some Vallejo colours aren't that accurate and also the semi opaque container doesn't always show up the true colour of the paint inside so sometimes it's difficult to choose exactly the shade you're after, it took me 3 tries to get a 'standard' red.

Oh yes indeed! I needed some Vallejo Oxford Blue and the stuff was purple!!! Also when brush painting a figure I've had issues with Vallejo drying glossy which is something you don't need for a figure (unless it's got a leather coat on). Great stuff for detail painting but for airbrushing...erm....not for me ta :)

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The amount of time you'll be.spending un blocking your airbrush and cleaning the stuff off the needle tip, if the thought of doing that doesn't.bother you you'll be fine. If it does then go for Tamiya and Gunze. People.who.use Vallejo will tell you to add this and that to it to stop the problem but isn't that defeating the whole point of using air brush ready paint!

The most I add to Model Air is a dash of thinner, which can go for almost any other kind of paint being sprayed. Sometimes I will ad a drop of FloAid if I'm doing fine work, but again that's no different to me using Mr Hobby Self Levlling thinner rather than the usual when using Gunze, Tamiya, MH or Giainotes. Sometimes I'll add a drop of gloss varnish , same goes for other paints.

My experience of using Model Air has been they're the least troublesome paint I've ever used. Experiences do differ I know, I scored a bottle of their grey primer from someone who threw it away - I poured it into the colour cup, no problems!

Edited by Jonathan Mock
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I've used them since i started modelling about a year ago, and I finally have given up airbrushing with them, every colour varies slightly so there is no set ratio to thin them with, but also I have a few colours that will clog my airbrush no matter how much you thin them, from my experience the model air also require thinning as well.

They are great for brush painting but for airbrushing I have switched to gunze aqueous and they are so much easier to work with, they thin nicely with tamiya x-20a thinners and even better with mr color levelling thinner the downside to the mr color thinners is the smell as it's lacquer based, however this is not an issue with the x-20a.

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Cheers guys.I never thought of tamyia as an option because I could never get on with them when I was figure painting in found they dried a little to quick. As historical figure painting is also be a big part of my modelling I have to bring that into the equation too. I'll still used enamel but the majority of my modelling will be done with acrylics instead now

Mark

Edited by Tornado
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I like using Vallejo, however I usually use a shade lighter than needed or states in the kit instructions. This is because I finish the model with Klear which, when dried, always darkens the colour of the paint applied.

To overcome the possibility of too light/too dark, I have a sheet of plasticard (sprayed with Tamiya surface primer and sectioned into 1 inch squares) which I use for testing colours. Basically, I paint one of the squares with the representative colour and, once dried, apply a layer of Klear. After it has dried I check the final colour. If it is right then I'll use that paint; if not then I'll go lighter/darker as necessary, rather than "I must use paint xxx because that's what it says on the bottle/tin".

Hope you had a great time over the festive period Mark.

cheers

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I like using Vallejo, however I usually use a shade lighter than needed or states in the kit instructions. This is because I finish the model with Klear which, when dried, always darkens the colour of the paint applied.

To overcome the possibility of too light/too dark, I have a sheet of plasticard (sprayed with Tamiya surface primer and sectioned into 1 inch squares) which I use for testing colours. Basically, I paint one of the squares with the representative colour and, once dried, apply a layer of Klear. After it has dried I check the final colour. If it is right then I'll use that paint; if not then I'll go lighter/darker as necessary, rather than "I must use paint xxx because that's what it says on the bottle/tin".

Hope you had a great time over the festive period Mark.

cheers

Cheers matey. Great time Thank you.

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The amount of time you'll be.spending un blocking your airbrush and cleaning the stuff off the needle tip, if the thought of doing that doesn't.bother you you'll be fine. If it does then go for Tamiya and Gunze. People.who.use Vallejo will tell you to add this and that to it to stop the problem but isn't that defeating the whole point of using air brush ready paint!

I was under the impression acrylic was easier to clean out of an airbrush ??

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I was under the impression acrylic was easier to clean out of an airbrush ??

I would say Vallejo is one of the hardest of all to clean out of the airbrush, the stuff just goes into a globby mess! Another thing, apart from them hardly blocking your brush up every 5 minutes, in Tamiya and Gunzes favour is that you can thin them with just about everything, from their own thinners, IPA, even Cellulose. The pigments are far smaller than those in Vallejo as well. The thing against both Tamiya and Gunze as you have found out is that they don't brush paint well at all. The best thing for you to do is buy a bottle of both and try for your self before rushing into buying a collection.

Tim

Edited by tank152
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I like MA and don't really have any issues through my Iwata. Cleaning is the same as any acrylic I use. I find their own cleaner is very good at getting rid of most things acrylic.

The one thing I have noticed is that I've just tried a 3 parts used Satin varnish and it clogged the A/B every few seconds. I can only put this down to maybe it being too cold where I sprayed or maybe it going off as I hadn't used this bottle for a few months. Threw it away just in case.

I find a touch of flow aide works well with my 0.3mm needle, mind you, I find that with all acrylics!

As for colour match, I tend to brew me own anyway.

Just a thought, I've got back into using Tamiya again thinned with cellulose and that's lovely to spray with a nice finish too.

I guess you find a paint that works for you then stick with it but have a play with other stuff as it takes your fancy.

Overall, I give it the thumbs up for what I do.

Grab a couple of bottles and play.

Rick.

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Cheers guys.I never thought of tamyia as an option because I could never get on with them when I was figure painting in found they dried a little to quick. As historical figure painting is also be a big part of my modelling I have to bring that into the equation too. I'll still used enamel but the majority of my modelling will be done with acrylics instead now

Mark

I wouldn't bother trying to brush paint Tamiya mate, the 2nd coat will normally lift the first and it doesn't thin well for a brush job. It sprays beautifully though.

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Tamiya paint will brush paint but only if you add some acrylic retarder. Mig Jimenez brush painted a WW2 Russian motor torpedo boat with the stuff a couple of years ago (although he did do several coats) so it can be done

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I think the thing to remember is that there are different chemical mixes of acrylic paints.

What thins one range will turn another range to jelly.

We all have different ways of working and what works for one doesn't work for the next modeller.

So you have to try a few and follow the manufacturers instructions in the first instance.

When you find a range that works for you, stick with it.

Personally I like the Vallejo Model air range, it can be thinned if you want it thinner and you can use a drying retardant if you find it drying to quickly.

They have a lot of their leaflets on the ranges and an equivalence chart that can be downloaded from their web site.

Paul

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I wouldn't bother trying to brush paint Tamiya mate, the 2nd coat will normally lift the first and it doesn't thin well for a brush job. It sprays beautifully though.

Exactly the problem I found with it too.... Tamiya Vallejo, Vallejo tamiya ............ Never bloody easy is it

Mark

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I agree, it can be done, I've done it when I've nothing else available. If you get it down quickly in one layer then fine, but it you need to add another layer it usually just lifts or destroys the first layer. If you brush any other Tamiya colour on top it will destroy the layer below too. Perhaps if you leave it for a week or two to "cure" then it might work but I don't have the patience for that.

Basically, you need lots of time and patience to brush paint Tamiya and why bother when there are better brush paints out there.

Tamiya are superb for airbrushing but a real pain to brush paint, even when using a retarder.

Just my opinion...

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Pity tamiya don't come in the same bottle as vallejo.. Think that would have tipped the balance

Tamiya is putting me off a little with its £- volume ratio

Edited by Tornado
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