Filler HATE?RAGE? Well slightly annoyed ish

[Murdo]

Suspect there would be lots of interest in seeing a WIP on this - me included!

Iain

Yup, me too.

Britmodellers may have little interest in what you're modelling, but more how you're doing it. All sorts of little tips that can feed across. We all find them useful.

Couldn't have put it better Wooksta. The plane does look interesting though....

Edited December 31, 2012 by Murdo

[Admiral Puff]

Me too. I've long had a hankering to do a Shorts 360, because several came onto the Australian Register - operated by Hazeltons and Murray Valley Airlines, to name a couple, and I've had several rides in the Hazo ones.

[D.B. Andrus]

Perdu

Sounds like your work space/putty is too cool for it to set up. When my studio is cold and using any two-part material (body filler, epoxy or polyester resin) I always hit it with a hair dryer on high for a few minutes after applying. This gets it up to a temperature where it will "kick-over". Stuff doesn't have to be that warm to get going - no need to melt the model - just enough to reach the critical point.

HTH,

D.B.

[Lawnguylander]

Yes Kev, Shorts C-23A Sherpa, developed from the Shorts 330 for the USAF European Distribution network in the eighties

One design requirement aspect was that it could carry the Pratt & Witney F100 engine anywhere replacements were required

As I'm considering a diorama I've built the engine, plastic wrapped and cargo handling framework to ride the cargo roller floor

As usual I cant get the image size reduced "nicely" in PB oh well here's the one I did earlier

Thinking of a WIP if anyone's interested

b

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee417/perdu1/Sherpacity/sherpabuild10011.jpg

Well, there's the problem, Perdu!! You accidentally wrapped up one of the Milliput sticks in your diorama!!!!

[perdu]

aw shucks

such a simple mistake to make though

he he

Thanks guys, this (BM) is a great modeller resource

I'm getting there now

b

[Natter]

No one has mentioned it on this thread, but this site is where I got the info for superglu and talc. I use either thick or medium cyanoacrylate and mix talc in a little at a time to get a paste. This is applied and can be left to go off or zapped with accelerator (not 'Zap!' as it melts polystyrene plastic). If acelerator is used it can change the shape of the filler as it goes off so more may need to be applied. Because the talc is mixed with the super glue it files well and is easier to sand than pure super glue. It is seriously rapid (!) and gives a nice smooth finish, better than either milliput or Squadron white which I have tried before.

[Nick Belbin]

Never had a problem with white Milliput myself so that doesn't help in the slightest!

However, I prefer to use Ronson woodfiller rather than Isopon/P38. The latter is generally used for car repairs (or used to be!) and I find it extremely tough to sand. I find woodfiller easier because it is 'softer' - it's more 'sympathetic' to the material it's replacing.

Having said that, it will still give off fumes . . .

NjB

[tomprobert]

It's P38 for me when filling large areas, but I find Squadron Green Putty excellent for smaller areas. I used to use Revell filler but found over time it shrinks, and I've had the same problem with fluid coming out of the tube and making it very runny and unworkable.

Interesting project by the way...

Tom

[AnonymousAA72]

I'm not suggesting that you've done this Perdu, but I have! White Milliput is my chosen filler for large areas, and for scratchbuilding small items (radomes for example). It smooths and sands perfectly. However, I've had the same problem as you once or twice, and as far as I can tell the problem is me mixing two parts of the same tube (as opposed to mixing one part of each!) I blame it on the colours being very similar - unlike the grey and grey tubes of Standard Milliput! I've not tried the silver/grey Milliput - but that may be an option?

[perdu]

Thanks for this further info guys, appreciated muchly

Bill I always cut off equal lengths from both sticks when I use Milliput, 'cos I can see how what you describe could happen

I think it must be temperature when mixing related, I do lots of this late night when the gaffer's popped off to bed and the potential harm from fumes in the modelling "studio" are least likely to do her any harm. Which means that generally the room temp is dipping after the evening central heating timer has switched off..

Now I don't ascribe any fumey stinks to Milliput but I always treat it like any other chemical to take care of, sadly this also means I try to use superglue as little as possible too, even I've had bad heads after too much exposure to the fumes off that. I have been adding 0.010" Slater's Rod as ribbing to the control surfaces as here on the rudders. Headaches, yes by jiminy, hellish horrid even through a face mask.

Here's a picture of the interior, now closed up and lost to sight (dont know quite why I went to these lengths)

Thin Milliput side walled panels quilted with window fly excluding mesh, flight engineer's console with radio. Home made wheels and Plastic Padding engines plus one of the three seats I moulded for the crew from a carved wooden clothes peg used as the moulding buck.

I do use SG as a filler for some things though Dave, maybe I should have a respirator like your avatar's.

Guys I am sorting out what pictures I have to get a WIP flying maybe later this weekend if you all want one

This was a scratchbuild I first did thirty years ago then threw it away when I lost my modelling mojo, I felt I needed to return to the itch and "scratch it" better this time

b

[kev67]

Very interested in the Aircraft and how you go about scratch building it, so would love to see some photos of the build