Revell 1/32 Lynx conversion to AH7

[Lynx7]

Yep, back to Lynx again. For my second Revell 1/32 Lynx (first one was a test shot build review for Airfix Model World mag (Jan or Feb issue), I have decided to make a proper Lynx and not one of those butt-ugly navy types. This one will be an Army AH7. A fairly simple mod from the German Mk88A.

Advantages to the Mk88A - Non folding tail boom, nose profile (non-FLIR) is the same as an AH7 (minus the radome), clockwise newer tail rotor and similar engine cowlings (minus a couple of small lumps).

Scratch building the following - Skids, instrument panel and using the kit nose as a basis to remodel and recast as an AH7. Will need to shift one of the cabin door windows to the front of the door as opposed to the dipping sonar role the Mk88A has in the kit and fill the forward flot-bag recesses. I've already removed the flanges where the sponsons sit too. Apart from that, tis a straight forward build.

Made a start on the nose. I resin cast the top section of the nose (as the nose from front to about mid way back is horizontally symmetrical) then using the newly cast part, attached it to the lower section. I removed the rear section of the lower nose part and used that minus the radome. I filled the round hole with milliput and spend quite a while sanding, priming and shaping until it was the correct profile on the underside. I have a highly detailed pdf 3 view of an AH7 and scaled that up to 1/32 and printed them off. These are my templates to ensure everything is to scale. Once I was happy with the nose profile, I added Archer #30 rivet decals (as recommended by IIking on his 1/32 build) and will recast the whole nose out of two part resin. After that, I can work the newly cast nose with appropriate panel lines and will cut it up to make the nose avionics bay doors to show interior detail (means I will also have a master cast and mould for an AH7 ;-) ). I will be dismantling various useful bits from my Accurate Armour 1/35 Lynx to furnish this job. Some of you may remember my 'progress' on that nightmare of a 'model'. Its never ever ever going to get completed so I hope I can make use of that £140 paper weight!

Heres the progress so far;

I filled and redrilled the nose upper antenna holes as they sit slightly further forward on the AH7.

Will mould and recast the nose as it will be easier to work resin and I can make several test shots of it.

Dont expect to do too much more on it this year as I'm thinning out on leave on Friday and will be heading up to girlfriends for Christmas....priorities!!

Edited December 13, 2012 by Lynx7

[pacificmustang]

Excellent start, looking forward to progress in the new year Lynx

Bruce

[llking]

I'll be watching this one close, great start

[heloman1]

Hi Tony. looking great, it's going to make a good companion for the HAS version. Are those Archers rivets or the rather less expensive ones from HWG(?) in Cz? Have a mate up in Jo'burg wanted an Aifix kit all of a hurry when he saw pics of my HAS 2 but all has gone quiet after he told me had got the Revell kit!

Must run Wessex to build......

Colin

[j22mdr]

Looking forward to this one

[Justinjgy]

Here we go again !! I cant wait to see it mate.

[McYellowbelly]

Like what I see so far

[merlin9807]

Great start Tony, Cant wait to see what you do next with it mate.

see you in the New Year hopefully.

Cheers

Merlin

[The Sage]

Hi Tony great piece of work will the nose be available at some time ?

Cheers

Andy

[duane]

Was tempted to get this for £20 today at Model Zone, but thought I'd get the 2 Mk7 and 9A 1/48's out the way first. Will be watching closely for tips and methods particularly when it comes to the skids.

[Kagemusha]

Very nice clean work, hope a conversion will be available - who can resist a Lynx with skids..?

[Lynx7]

Happy New Year all.

Enough time off modelling to start to get me frustrated so back in to it with a vengeance.

Update to keep you up to speed with some of the mods I've been doing to make this an AH7 Lynx.

I've recast the nose but it will need some further work as the .2mm Archer rivets didnt show up to well on the resin cast. Have ordered some .3mm rivets so will see if they give me better results. As well as that, my mould had too many air bubbles in it and is awkward in shape to give me satisfactory results. I'm thinking of doing the nose in several parts so that may help in the mould scheme. My aim is to open the nose avionics bay doors so I'm thinking that doing it as per the Airfix nose parts may be the way ahead.

Initial casting of the new nose. Lego is a perfect structure to use as a mould frame. I've lined it with 2 layers of cling film to make it water tight. I've used a wooden stick as a frame to suspend the nose in the cast.

Lower fuselage mods consisted of filling the harpoon deck lock cavity to the rear, filling the landing light hole (AH7 has its landing light under the nose), fabricating a new Rad alt panel which luckily covers the round hole where the sonar would come through and applying thin plasitcard to fill the area where the nose wheel faring would sit. I will need to remove the IFF small antennas too. Pencil lined the rear area where the rear skid posts will sit. The front skid posts will attach to the forward triangular shaped fillets.

Enhancement of the rear cabin area adding a few bits of millput to simulate flaps and hatches in the sound proofing. I also had to make the 'broom cupboard'. I cut a rectangle out of the rear wall then made a box then mounted the cut out bit on to that.

I drilled the hydraulic pack inspection window and accumulator window out. I will place some thin clear acetate on the inside and apply the decal provided inside the housing on a box simulating the hyd packs. Still debating whether to cut the front fairing away and have it slid forward to display geatbox, AC gennies, hyd packs and all the other gubbins up there.....

Removed and filled the scoop on the right side of the fuselage. Only one on the Mk7 on the left. You can see where I've cut off the sponson mounts and will fill this area once the fuselage halves and floor are in position.

Modified cabin floor. I removed the rails on the rear left where the sonar operator seat would go. I've also removed the harness connector for the power for the sonar station at front right. You can still see the large circular raised section in the centre that would be for the dipping sonar. I've decided to leave this as I've going to put a wooded 3 piece cargo floor in and a six man seat.

Tail boom mods included cutting out the IGB covers (I will do as I've done on the Airfix Lynx and use fine mesh in these area). I've also learnt from my previous Revell 1/32 Lynx build and attached a brass rod to attach the horizontal tail stab as the kit pin is not up to the job. I've also cut about 10mm from the end of the stab too as the kit one is far too long. I've drilled out various holes on the boom and removed the VOR antenna mount midway along the tail boom. I will start to stick Archer rivets all over the tail boom once my new supply arrives.

I'm using a few bits from my now defunct Accurate Armour 1/35 Lynx. One part is my recast panel. Luckily the size is perfect.

The Mk88A Lynx has a couple of extra bulges on the engine cowlings so these were shaved off. You can just about see the area (grey on top middle). Because after shaving, the plastic was very thin, I applied a blob of superglue on the inside. I also drilled out the rear of the cowlings and will apply mesh here too.

Cabin roof has had a bit of treatment too. I've drill 12 holes just behind the cabin light and these will hold the pax drop leads. I've also cut out a rectangle to the front and put a square of thin plasticard on the top part. This will be wear the NVG wander lamps will go. I've also drilled a couple of holes for the front seaters drop leads. Yep, love this scale...I can go mad on detail

Again, seats (and SA80 Carbines) I made for the AA 1/35 Lynx will fit perfectly in this one.

Nose avionics bay detail. The shelf and housings are a bit small but will retrieve the avionics and fit them in the new nose.

Casting of the skid uprights and end caps. I will use brass rod for the main part of the skids, drill and pin the uprights and secure the resin cast end caps.

Thats about it for now folks. Will prime the cabin parts tomorrow and rethink the nose casting parts.

A couple of pics of my completed Revell 1/32 Lynx. The build review should appear in Airfix Model World mag in the not to distant future.

[Radleigh]

can't stop laughing at the door in the Lego.

Top work though, I really want this as a kit rather than scratch build one, or even a conversion would do. Look forward to more progress! Feature kit is a gem!

[Lynx7]

I'm speaking with Ali at A2Zee so fingers crossed, we can get a conversion of this out too.

[heloman1]

can't stop laughing at the door in the Lego.

Top work though, I really want this as a kit rather than scratch build one, or even a conversion would do. Look forward to more progress! Feature kit is a gem!

Hi Radleigh. I think the door in the lego must be to let the air bubbles out of the rubber!

Colin

[heloman1]

Hi Tony, welcome back after your Christmas break, good work as usual, I'll be following your build thread closely., Hopefully I have a HAS 3 on the way when it is released.

Colin

[shark 64]

Superb work so far. I was thinking of getting the Accurate Armor Lynx but After reading your review Ill get the Revell one.

Oliver

[amcb10]

Awesome work.

[phildagreek]

Sooper stuff.

[Kagemusha]

I'm speaking with Ali at A2Zee so fingers crossed, we can get a conversion of this out too.

Hope so!

[Lynx7]

Thanks all.

Hi Colin, hows tricks mate?

Shark, seriously dont bother with the AA Lynx! Save your self a ton of cash and frustration and go for the £20 Revell kit. Even converting it in to Venezuelan fishing boat using chop-sticks and play-do would be easier than attempting the horror that is the AA Lynx.....

Just finishing the skids off. Will post pics alter.

[jenshb]

Been following your threads and they are inspirational to say the least. It seems to me that you are casting the nose pointing downwards and pouring the resin in from the top. If that is the case, the air bubbles will rise and hit the surface of the nose. To avoid this, let the surface of the nose slope upwards ( like the pyramids), then the air bubbles will move away from the surface rather than on to it. I make a mould box from plasticard, stick the part on the base, brush a thin layer of rubber and then pour the resin in a thin, wide string to the lowest point in the mould, avoiding to pour on the part itself.

Jens

[Lynx7]

Jens, thanks for the very handy tip. I'll give it a go on my next cast!

Ok here's the skids so far. All just dry fitted for now and I'm very happy even in this state how good they appear to be in symmetry, robustness and look.

Initially used plastic tube for main part of skid but have now elected to go for brass. The gaps between the skid posts and skid will be filled with a bit of milliput/filler.

I decided to drill carefully all the way through the front skid post and insert a .8mm brass rod that goes all the way through the skid tube too. Should be tough enoug and allow for a bit of flexibility for adjustment and strength. You can see the end cap and how I intend to attach it to the skid tube (just blutac inside for now but will fill it with milliput then insert the pin and adjust to central position before it sets. Luckily the fit is good enough that it sits flush and will require minimal filling on all four..

How I intend to attach the skids. As I mentioned before, the forward attachment points will utilise the triangular recesses (I will put the fillets in then drill the correct position). For the rear mount, I cut out a trough that will allow the raised upper area of the rear skid post to sit flush with the underside. Once in position, I will pin in place. The rear skid post has a .8mm hole drilled and pinned to the brass skid tube. Luckily, the rear skit posts are quite flexible and robust so will not require strengthening as per the front posts. I will blend the upper inner section of the skid post to the fuselage once in position as on the real thing, it disappears in to the lower fuselage.

General positioning and form is good and will require minimal adjustment once fixed in place.

All the cockpit and cabin bits have been primed so will set to work on those tomorrow. Once the nose issue is sorted, this shouldnt take too long.......so long as I dont decide to scratch build a couple of engines and open all the panels up.....hmm-what do you think????

[Lynx7]

Heres one I made earlier......

Very sad looking cab stripped out behind my old hangar. Shows the area of the rear skid post housing with panel removed

[Warris]

Cracking work so far Tony