Help with Photoetched parts needed.

[TerryUK]

Hi, I have decided to try out some Photo etched parts and was looking for some help along the way.

First up removing them from spruce which tool is best for this job? Also sanding rough edges again what is best to use?

Next up would be cleaning said parts before painting anything out there to help with this?

Also attaching said parts to plastic kits which glue is best?

Oh and shaping the parts any tools to help as i don`t think my collection of equipment is up to par for the job at hand.

Any other tips and tricks of using these parts would be of value.

I am really quite new to using these parts and have a few now in my stash for use with some kits that i have in the back log due to never using these parts before.

I just feel a bit nervous about using them for the first time and spoiling a good kit into the bargin.

Im going to the model shop tommorow and any tools can be picked up along the way. Im sorry if this has been covered on the forums before but i did search and just never came up with the answers to my questions.

Kits to be etched are F-117A (Though the bomb bay needs scratch building as i cannot find a 1/72 replacment)

Also an RAF Buccaneer`s Air Brakes and Wing fold also in 1/72.

Thanks for your Time

Regards

Terry

[Dads203]

Three items that are a must, an old tile (bathroom/kitchen) to cut on, New blade for your modelling knife and I use a tamiya file to remove any burrs left, just use the tile to cut on as close to the part as possible and file away carefully any burrs. It takes some practice but you'll get the hang of it. A new blade makes life easy.

HTH

Dan

Edited December 5, 2012 by Dads203

[pte1643]

Agree with Dan. An old Kitchen tile, and I find a "Curved" blade (like a SM #10) easier to cut with, then you can use a sort of Rocking motion and the bits come away quite nicely.

As for folding/forming, you can get specialised Hold and Fold tools, but personally I have a couple of pairs of jewelery pliers with Smooth blades (one Flat nosed, the other Round nosed), these can be picked up from the likes of Hobbycraft, etc, very cheaply.

For sticking, either CA or PVA works OK. The PVA is obviously not as strong, but can be used quite effectively for a lot of applications.

Edited December 5, 2012 by pte1643

[gcn]

As above, for smaller bits future works quite well as a glue.

[prowler0000]

Another vote here for the Tamiya PE file.

Not cheap, but makes a nice finish easier, & as long as you go easy and don't apply too much pressure, the parts don't deform...

A sharp blade is VITAL, as is a solid surface to cut on. Minimises deformations & makes life easier....

[depressed lemur]

So that's where I'm going wrong

[little-cars]

I produce a PE cutting set (£10 or £5 when bought with a hold and fold tool), it uses a perspex base, so blades don't get damaged as quickly and a small clear press so you can get a more accurate cut, for less cleaning up. It also syops pieces pinging into the carpet once they are cut.

A good glue for small pieces of etch is gator grip glue(£5), it looks a little like pva, but dries clear and hard, also has the advantage that excess can be cleaned up with a damp cotton bud.

Paul

little-cars

[roys]

This might help

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/photo-etched-parts-models/

Describes using varnish to stick small bits on which is quite interesting

Try using odourless CA ! Takes the sting & smell out of the job.

[Dads203]

Tbh stay away from Gator glue, snot has better sticking properties, i've tried Gator glue several times and have failed

To get it to grip. If you really want to use a PVA type non smelly glue then use PVA ..

[Mike]

I'm not a fan of Gator Grip either... it's just PVA with a high opinion of itself. PVA dries clear and hard too, and also wipes up with water. If you want to stick non-structural flat parts to things, either buy Eduard Self-Adhesive PE sets, or use clear varnish to hold 'em in place. Structural stuff will need either CA (super-glue) or even better if it's structural stuff that will see a lot of action, solder. Don't forget that if you've got some PE that needs joining and you won't see one side of it, you can always reinforce it with a strip of styrene, a bit of spare PE or summit else. There are many ways to skin this particular cat young Padwan

[viscount806x]

Try Microscale Liquitape, this is a PVA type glue produced with photoetch in mind. It dries clear but stays sort of dry-sticky and parts can be pushed into place and stay there. The bonus is that they can be released by easing off if the need arises to reposition. Lock into place permanently by some clear artists varnish like Cryla or Galeria or similar. Like others, I have tried Gator Grip but it seems to take an age to grip/dry. Maybe it just needs patience. Back to Liquitape for me.

For cutting, to save on knife blades you might consider a pair of small metal shears like these Xuron ones. The blades are straight and I can get right close up to the edge of photoetch parts with them leaving very little to trim off, just a burr maybe.

Edited December 5, 2012 by viscount806x

[BrandX]

Terry, enlightenment awaits you here:

http://wwwairloungepr.blogspot.co.uk/

Soon, you will learn to love these things...

[Daniel]

I produce a PE cutting set (£10 or £5 when bought with a hold and fold tool), it uses a perspex base, so blades don't get damaged as quickly and a small clear press so you can get a more accurate cut, for less cleaning up. It also syops pieces pinging into the carpet once they are cut.

I didn't know if I needed a hold and fold, but got one to try, it's great.

Dan

[TerryUK]

Thank you all for Links and Tips. Picked up some equipment today and a new kit, As i was there it was only the right thing to do. (Airfix 1/72 Scooter)

Feeling much more confident about tackling the Photo Etched parts now with the above words of wisdom and links.

Thank you all so much

Regards

Terry

[Jockster]

Gentlemen, you may all be interested in a pair of pliers I picked up on ebay, 'Xuron model 450 tweezer nosed pliers', about a fiver, perfect for etched metal, the nose is about 1.5mm across widening to about 3mm near the pivot. Smooth jaws, blue rubber handles. There are about half a dozen pairs left. Great shape for holding and folding those really small pieces like ladders on ships.

Regards,

Jockster.