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Posted

Hi All,

Here's my latest output and, overall, this kit was a joy to build. Please, Airfix, more of the new tooling! I chose the option to build the 1950 RNVR aircraft from RNAS Culham (HMS Hornbill.) There were a few tricky areas to deal with – the rear wing to fuse joint needed so filler, the propshaft needed trimming and if you choose a wheels-up model then ignore the instructions and glue wheels to undercarriage to fairing and install that sub-assembly.

I hadn’t built an in-flight model since I was a kid and have really enjoyed this – I’ll be doing more as I think it shows off the machines we love in their most natural element. I wanted to show off the lines of this aircraft as well as the handsome RN colour scheme. After some research and help from fellow forum members I decided to ignore commercially available display stand options and build my own. It wasn’t hard and added immensely to the sense of achievement. I used 4mm brass tubing and 5mm clear acrylic. An aerial photo of Culham was inserted between the two layers of acrylic for some added interest. It’s a pretty modern shot but once converted to B&W with some extra grain I think it passes muster.

I glued the model end of the tubing but not the base end. It’s a pretty snug fit in the base anyway so it’s secure enough without glue and leaving it like that allows me to spin the rod to change the display attitude of the model for a bit of variety. Overall I’m pretty happy with this method of building a display stand and will use it again.

The model was finished with Tamiya and Revell acrylics. My plan was to keep weathering to a minimum – this was 1950 with a glut of National Servicemen to keep the aircraft clean after all, but research did show that exhaust staining was common so the Tamiya smoke came out and I also added a little to simulate oil stains underneath. I had planned to keep the pre-shading minimal but I was disappointed to find that my pre-decal coat of Klear seemed to soak through the Tamiya Sky – a little like water through paper to show what’s underneath – to make the pre-shading more apparent. I think I just about get away with it. Decal quality was excellent although I do use setting agents as a matter of course.

Anyway, enough blathering and time to let the pictures speak for themselves. Comments and critique are always welcome, of course, and I hope you enjoy.

Cheers all,

Roger

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  • Like 9
Posted

Very nicely done Roger.

What are your thoughts on prop blurs. I have just bought some etch brass prop blades from 3D models intending to use them on an in-flight P-51D.

Another question, did you pre-shade under the sky lower surfaces, the effect looks really nice.

Cheers, Steve.

Posted

Hi Steve,

Yes to pre-shading underneath too. I used a medium gray as I didn't want a really heavy effect. I did think about those brass prop blurs, indeed many other prop blur effects too but I'm still not sold on any particular method. I do like the airbrushed method on a clear plastic disc - http://fillnsand.blogspot.com.au/2011/06/prop-blur-discs.html - but it's all a compromise as the most realistic method would probably be to removed the prop blades entirely. But I know if I did that I'd always wonder where the propellor was! What I found in my research on prop blur methods is that it's a pretty hotly argued subject and you just have to go with what your own eye finds most pleasing.

Cheers,

Roger

Posted

I'm going to say it now Roger,the pre-shade spoils it for me.

Other than that it's a superbly built rendition with an inspired display idea.

Well done on that front.

Posted (edited)

. I do like the airbrushed method on a clear plastic disc - http://fillnsand.blo...blur-discs.html - but it's all a compromise as the most realistic method would probably be to removed the prop blades entirely. But I know if I did that I'd always wonder where the propellor was! What I found in my research on prop blur methods is that it's a pretty hotly argued subject and you just have to go with what your own eye finds most pleasing.

For me the best way of getting prop blur is to replace the shaft on the kit prop with brass rod, exopy in a brass tube in the fuselage to accept it, rotate it all with a bit of metal polish in there so it's super smooth for a few minutes. Then It will spin up with and airbrush or hair drier (on cold for melty reasons obviously). You might need a drop of macine oil as well. If you use a realtively slow shutter speed on your camera, you can get this to look spot on. It doesn't need to spin fast at all as the exposure is realtively long, tripod of course, and it all balances out. ie a prop ambling round being a windmill with a few seconds exposure, looks like a merlin at full chat @ 1/60th in real life.

You get the effect you want in your fotos, it doesn't look naff when stationary and your not mucking about trying to power and wire motors.

Give it a go, you'll be suprised how effective it is.

Sorry PE 'swirls' and clear disks just don't do it for me.

Or just photoshop it alternatively of course, it is the 21st century after all :)

Seafire looks ace by the way, nice job, stand is a great idea too.

Nick

Edited by nick
Posted (edited)

Nice job Roger, you have convinced me spitfires/seafires look better in flight. Did you consider clear acrylic rod for the stand instead of brass? Its quite strong and not as 'in your face' as the brass.

I do like the B&W pic on the base

Regards

Bruce

Edited by pacificmustang
Posted

Just remebered, took this at Duxford in 2010, shows what a great job you have made of the kit

4787226791_03c2a15da2_b.jpg

Nick

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice job Roger, you have convinced me spitfires/seafires look better in flight. Did you consider clear acrylic rod for the stand instead of brass? Its quite strong and not as 'in your face' as the brass.

I do like the B&W pic on the base

Regards

Bruce

Thanks to all for the very kind comments. Super picture, Nick.

Bruce - I did consider using acrylic rod but I'm afraid that when I opened a draw on a rainy Friday evening and found a couple of lengths of 4mm brass tubing the decision was kind of made! The point about it being a bit in-your-face is well made though and that's why I gave it a few wipes with medium grade micromesh - to give it a clean lustre rather than a bright shine.

Cheers all,

Roger

Posted

I love the build, but the rod that allows you to swivel the model on the stand to show it in different degrees of bank is VERY cool. I agree that at least in this case, the beauty of the Spitfire is showcased rather well as a nice and clean in flight model. I love well executed models of parked planes with folded wings, but to me, a Spit/Seafire will always look prettier with the wings extended.

Posted

Love the idea of posing her in flight over a picture of Culham!

Martin

Posted

Lovely build. But have to agree with Miggers about the pre shading. 17's were always kept clean (my dad worked on them)

It is a model to be proud off. :goodjob:

Seafire 17..................best looking Spit ever made :thumbsup:

Posted

Just remebered, took this at Duxford in 2010, shows what a great job you have made of the kit

4787226791_03c2a15da2_b.jpg

Nick

Note the lack of "pre-shading" and over emphasised panel lines chaps?

Pretty representative of ALL Spits and Seas.

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