Refurbishing Old Models

[JohnT]

I have an old 1/32 scale Revell Mirage which was pretty decent in its day but is now a faded old glory

I was thinking of buying another and doing it up with AM parts - possibly something from Isracast - but they are hard to find and when you do they are a tad expensive for what nowadays would be a very basic model.

I got to thinking about taking the old one apart, stripping the paint off (old Humbrol enamels) opening her up for a new cockpit etc.

I have seen lots of old models "getting the treatment" but wondered if there were any good methods for removing paint, loosening old tube glue etc and any pitfalls to watch out for?

Any advice welcome as always

John

[Smiffy]

I have had recent experience of this type of thing. I bought an old truck from Ebay, with the mind to refurb it. To start with, I removed everthing that would come off with little effort and then followed a little tip I read on the old t'interweb. I washed the kit down with plenty of water and while it was still wet, I bunged it in the freezer and left it over night. The idea being that the frozen water helps to force the joins apart. It seems to work pretty well. There were some parts that broke, but on the whole, it came apart pretty easily.

For stripping the paint, I tried a couple of methods. The bigger parts were sprayed with Fairy Power Spray. I sealed them inside a plastic tub and again, left overnight. It works a treat, with the paint just coming of while holding the parts under a running tap. Tougher spots were treated to some scrubbing with an kld toothbrush.

For the smaller pieces, I chucked them all in a small tub of Dettol. This also works really well, with the added bonus that the smell isn't as pungent as the Power Spray. I was surprised to find that Dettol works equally well on acrylics and enamels. I mean really old enamels. I used it strip some parts which I hand painted with Humbrol Silver Fox, back in about 1984.

It's actually quite satisfying doing one of these refurbs and giving new life to some old plastic. So much so, that I've dug out a couple of old Monogram kits that I built when I was in school. A 72nd F-16XL and their 48th F-19 stealth fighter. You can't seem to get either of these very easily, so these will be reconditioned as well.

[Radleigh]

When I get time I've got one or two to do that have sat in my dads loft for 20+ years.

Once the fuselage is cut open I'm going to plan on treating it like a vac kit and put tab on the inside etc Hopefully wing's will come off without having to put a spar in, but will see once I attack them!

Good luck too, I've got a Revell Mirage III kit, unbuilt though.

[Graham T]

Never tried this myself but I'm told that putting a model in a freezer overnight will enable you yo virtually snap it apart along the old glue lines.

[mike.45]

Fairy Power Spray

I have never heard of this - is it the Fairy domestic cleaning fluid or is it some kit paint product made for models ??

Sorry for the dumb question !

[prowler0000]

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/Product/Details/?id=255907482

[trickyrich]

there is a pretty "hardcore" method you could try to remove the stubborn paint.

I use to build a lot of 1/24th cars and often used automotive lacquer, gives a great finish, but if you stuff it up........ hard work to remove without damaging stuff.

It involves the use of an automotive product that is notorious for removing ANY sort of paint…..Brake Fluid!

It pays to be careful handling the stuff, not so great for the hands, wear cloves!!!!

Just “dip and dunk” or carefully brush on, leave for about 60 seconds then wash thoroughly! You may want to do this a couple of times, will get rid of the toughest modelling paint. Acrylics, enamels, lacquer, you name it, it’s gone.

Just don’t leave anything to sit too long in it as it will make the plastic go very brittle, and I wouldn't recommend it of really small stuff or transparencies. Easy to get from any of the automotive outlets and not too expensive.

But do recommended some trials before you attempt a refurb on an old favourite!

ooo found new font!

Edited December 9, 2012 by trickyrich

[Flemming]

Hi

A simple method for removing old Humbrol enamel is caustic soda. Take a plastikbowl large enough to fit the entire model. Fill it with luke warm water and add ordinary house hold caustic soda which is normally used for removing clogs in your drain. Although it looks innocent enough - like salt - it is powerful stuff. Skin and eye protection needed. While you pour in a couple of spoonfuls of caustic soda feel with your hand on the outside of the bowl. It will get warmer, but should not get too hot. Put the model in the solution and after a short while the paint will bubble up and can be rinsed off with clean water and a brush. The good thing about this is that you can dispose of it in the toilet afterwards. That is not possible with brake fluid that has to be put back in the container.

But take care of eyes and skin and don't breathe vapors. It is stong stuff no matter the method.

Flemming

[spitfire]

I renovated a couple of old 1/32 scale kits, the cockpit interiors were very good but the detail and finish were a bit dodgy, old Humbrol enamels, raised panel lines, old and faded decals, I removed all the bits and pieces that were easy to remove, soaked them in old brake fluid (not the environmentally friendly stuff) overnight, and washed the paint off in the morning. A few bits clung on so these were removed with Brillo pads. Then it was a case of rescribing, re painting, and detailing parts such as engines and undercarriage.

Cheers

Dennis

[Giorgio N]

I've done this countless times and I use the same brake fluid method as Rich and Dennis

This not only removes most paint but also seem to soften the glue and allows parts to detach more easily. Personally I follow Dennis' system to leave the model in a bath overnight.

A very important thing to do after the paint has been removed is to wash thoroughly the model to eliminate any residue of the fluid.

It's then time to detach all the parts.. not all of them might detach cleanly and some repair will be likely needed, but in the end you'll have your bits and pieces ready to be assembled as if it was a new kit.

Interestingly, I have the same Mirage III kit I build when I was a kid and this is one of those models that will get the treatment one day... The same treatment is awaiting a bunch of old built models I bought a couple of months ago.. as they came at an average of £1 each it's quite a cheap way to get some plastic to play with...