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Hello everybody,

 

and DaveS' answer was not long in coming. cool.gif He can not remember the mission from which his great photo came from, huh.gif but as far as he knows, the Cable trays did not change during the Shuttle program and remained same from ET-1 (STS-1) to ET-138 (STS-135), which I did not want to believe at first. up047089.gif

 

Because similar to here on the ET-8-Photo,

 

up069760.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

also on this photo of ET-129 (STS-126) at first glance the obliquely rising CT part (red arrow) in front of the middle strut seems to be lower than the horizontal part (yellow arrow) behind the strut. up045518.gif

 

up069761.jpg
Source: NASA

 

And also on this great photo of DaveS it looks similar at first. This photo gives the widest possible insight to below the Crossbeam, where one can see the further course of the cable tray very well. up039822.gif

 

up069762.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DaveS)

 

And so my previous perception is obviously an optical illusion, as I have now recognized in the zoom, if one waits until the zoom bar disappears at the bottom of the screen. analintruder.gif 

 

up069763.jpg

 

In it one can see a dark area in the lower part of the oblique rise, which I have not recognized so far.  cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif This is evidently a dark taped area similar to that at the top of the CT bow below the plate (Part 4). smiley215.gif

 

It becomes even clearer if one goes to 100% zoom in full-screen mode. up046118.gif

 

up069764.jpg

 

And if one takes a closer look at this image of the ET-129, one can see the same dark lower part in the zoom. 

 

up069765.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Therefore I suppose that also the Cable Tray on the ET-8 looked exactly the same, only that one could not see the area even in the zoom, especially because it did lay completely in the dark too. rolleyes.gif

 

up069766.jpg

 

This confirms the statement of DaveS, that the Cable Trays did not change during the Shuttle Program, wherewith I now finally can go over to scratching the Part 3

 

In doing so, I will essentially focus on the following known images. up045518.gif

 

up068262.jpg
Source: NASA

 

EVA1Di.jpg

 

All I have still to do is think about how to proceed in the most appropriate way. smiley215.gif 

 

In any case, I will scratch the bow and the slant as separate parts and then connect. Since the bow with 1,5 mm x 6 mm x 4 mm is relatively small, the question arises, whether I am file out the whole part, or just the actual bow (Part 3.1), and then glue on the two tiny Parts 3.2/3.3?  up047089.gif

 

How do you think about it? up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

because the bow incl. the TPS Cladding on the LO2 Side compared to the one on the LH2 Side is nearly "huge", shocked.gif as can be seen here at the ET-118 (STS-115),

 

up069788.jpg

 

it would be an unnecessary and vain effort trying to file out the whole part, as for the LH2 Umbilical. smiley_worship.gif

 

up069214.jpg

 

So I'm going to bend an Evergreen profile (1 mm x 1,5 mm) again using my proven Balsa-aided Bending Technique under hot air around a Balsa stencil.  up039822.gif

 

For this I first printed this drawing as a template on a scale of 1:144 in order to search for a corresponding Balsa stencil for the bow,

 

up069790.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. II (Lockheed Martin)

 

and have actually found one in my Balsa collection. cool.gif One only has to keep in mind that the Cable tray in the drawing has no TPS cladding nono.gif and is therefore a bit thinner than in reality. 

 

up069791.jpg

 

And then it went to the Balsa-bending table, on which the rectangular profile was clamped in a known manner between two small Balsa boards.

 

up069792.jpg

 

Thereafter, the Hot air gun was started and the rod bent under the stream of hot air around the template, fixed immediately and once more blown on hot again.

 

up069793.jpg

 

After the bow could cool off for a while and this shape was "frozen", I removed the small board and could convince me of the success of the bend. smiley250.gif

 

up069794.jpg

 

And so I could go on, 

 

up069795.jpg

 

and have immediately marked the Length (6 mm) and the Height (4 mm) of the bow. cool.gif

 

up069796.jpg

 

Now I still have to determine the end point of the part in front of the Crossbeam. up047089.gif Then I also know how long the Part 3.4 may be and can then scratchen this. 
Anyway, I'm very satisfied so far and I hope it stays that way.   up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

next, I've cut off the two tiny Closeouts from an Evergreen strip (0,25 mm x 1,5 mm), as well as sanded a bit,

 

Qlz9B8.jpg

 

and glued them on the bow (Part 3.1). cool.gif

 

6cCQ7A.jpg

 

With it then I have checked the arrangement of the bow together with the center support (Part 2) and the provisional Part 3.4 for which I used a Profile bar (1,5 mm x 1,5 mm),

 

g8PKn6.jpg

 

what already looked pretty neat. 

 

30k7ig.jpg

 

Here's for comparison the scale drawing of this arrangement,
 
8TPyXY.jpg

 

which I've provisionally laid on locally, in order to see if or how the size fits, which also looks quite well.  top.gif 

 

6sF6Th.jpg

 

So far so good, but since with it neither the endpoint of the Cable Tray in front of the Crossbeam nor the length could be determined, I came up with the idea,  einfall.gif to bend a complete CT-Dummy out of a Strip (1,0 mm x 1,5 mm) and to test its location locally according to my previous measures.

 

After that was done in no time, speak_cool.gif  

 

HVQFVY.jpg

 

I've marked the height up to the Umbilical plate (about 7 mm), as well as the distance to the slant (6 mm)

 

O1zG1L.jpg

 

where I've bent it after the upper cut.

 

53iqtf.jpg

 

The length of the CT Dummy from the Crossbeam to the endpoint under the Umbilical plate I have measured with 11 mm.  spiegel-smilies-0002.gif

 

gJ9eLs.jpg

 

And then I've tried this dummy locally, whereby the positioning was a pretty tricky affair. eek.gif

 

And as one can see, the part fits quite well,

 

DqeyV9.jpg

 

and hits roughly onto the slant of the LH2 Cable Tray below the Crossbeam, which seems quite plausible. top2.gif

 

Cy60Gm.jpg

 

With these dimensions, I can now scratch the remaining parts on both sides of the previous bow. 

 

6cCQ7A.jpg

 

That's it for today. up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

but with the attaching of further parts that's another story, which is why I've thought of everything twice again plenty, especially since it is in the combination of such filigree parts not to millimeters, but rather by decimillimeters. cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif And wether at the end the exact installation dimension of the Cable Tray would come out is more than doubtful, or but coincidence.  hmmm.gif

 

Therefore, one does not get along without fitting, which is why it is better to proceed step by step, i.e. scratching one part at a time and preferring to test better safe than sorry to be able still to correct in between.  top.gif

 

Thus, the CT-Dummy had done its duty and could be set aside. 

 

But already with to try on the parts one has a lot of trouble to bring these small parts into position and then measure distances, smiley_worship.gif what one can see in this image. Because in order to lay up the profile bar for the slant next to the central support, I had to put (with breath hold) a spacer in between.  analintruder.gif

 

L4a1C8.jpg

 

Therefore, it seemed appropriate to glue first the Center support (Part 2), so as to have a fixed point for the further procedure.  up045518.gif Before that, I've placed the support several times on the outer LO2 Feedline Bracket and juggled back and forth, and finally made even smaller corrections (height/width) until I was satisfied with its position and then it could finally be glued. cool.gif

 

1yCbMd.jpg

 

Because if the size and location of this support would not be right, would not fit the slant, as well as the subsequent bow too. rolleyes.gif

 

R9DT3i.jpg

 

And now, by laying on of the intended Profile bar (1,5 mm x 1,5 mm), I was able to more accurately determine the required length of the Slant (Part 3.4) than before, because the support could not slip anymore. But before I shorten the rod to the final length, I may be want to make a few minor modifications. At least the lower tip of the bar under the support should become still slightly bevelled. huh.gif

 

qm0aSq.jpg

 

In order to be able to adapt the bow with the lower Closeout to the support, I had to first shorten a bit the upper part of the bow in order to attach it to the Umbilical plate and to be able to test the position. 

 

And also for this a special substructure was needed to get to the appropriate height. Above the black marking, it will then go on with the Parts 4-6. top.gif

 

FVQw6M.jpg

 

But as one can see, the front part with the Closeout fits quite well under the support, so now still only the front slant has to be made to fit. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

well, this slanted front part of the Cable Tray(Part 3.4) really has it in it and has almost already become to a nightmare of my sleepless nights ... schlaflos.gif

But meanwhile I'm of the opinion that one edge more or less  doesn't matter, and therefore I will be content with an approximate solution, especially since later one cannot see this part under the orbiter from the outside anyway. top.gif

 

The biggest difficulty in interpreting the course of the contours in the front area was this red circled notch directly under the Center support, which I have yet still decided to do, rolleyes.gif

 

fIWi9h.jpg
Source: NASA

 

which can be clearly seen again on this image section.

 

up068634.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DaveS)

 

And in this image one can also see the front area relatively well, where I will then orient myself during scratching, up045518.gif

 

up069303.jpg
Source: NASA

 

especially since this is only a short stub of about 5 mm length anyway, as one can see here. 

 

7Y7tmf.jpg

 

For the upper closeout, I've glued a Strip (0,25 mm x 1,5 mm x 3 mm),

 

9n1Uck.jpg

 

and the lateral closeout will follow next in a similar way, wherewith I will then content myself.   up040577.gif

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Looks good Manfred. After the umbilical connection, where do you plan to go next? Does this phase finish with the unpainted tank or should we expect you to move straight on to the orbiter?

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Thanks Kirk for your kind comment. :worthy:

 

First I will complete the LO2 Cable Tray and still install the end of the GO2 Press. Line from the last Ice Frost Ramp up to the Umbilical Plate. With this the Aft ET/Orbiter Attachment should be nearly complete. up045518.gif

 

BM42lf.jpg

 

Then I'm going  to wrap the entire ET with the thin tape spiral to apply the SOFI pattern texture using the Flour technique, eek.gifwhereto I have to mask the contact surfaces of all Ice Frost/PAL Ramps before. Then the SOFI-textured ET can be primed and painted. top.gif

 

Afterwards I could then continue with the Orbiter, or also complete the MLP, including LED lighting ... up040439.gif 

 

Then the FSS/RSS and the Diorama are still waiting for me ... up040577.gif&key=37940a736477cc130c2717d

 

 

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Hello everybody,

 

in the meantime I have completed the remaining CT Parts (Parts 4-6) and glued the lateral edge onto the Slant (Part 3.4), that is made from Evergreen Sheet Styrene (0,13 mm), which is very thin but noticeably in contrast. top.gif

 

The upper Disk (Part 6) is the same size as on the other side Ø 2 mm x 0,3 mm, and for the Slant (Part 5) and the Plate (Part 4) I have each used an Evergreen strip (1 mm x 1,5 mm)

 

ROFynm.jpg

 

For gluing the disc on the slant, it was again fixed centrally between two steel rulers.  up045518.gif

 

Zirdlo.jpg

 

33P5Mu.jpg

 

4N2sAC.jpg

 

So far, so good. cool.gif

 

Next, I actually wanted to glue the Slant (Part 3.4) under the Center support (Part 2). But before that I glued the two rings on the bow of the LO2 Feedline, which one can see in this photo. 

 

R2kU6c.jpg
Source: NASA

 

For this I wrapped an Evergreen Strip (0,5 mm x 0,5 mm) around a steel rod and held it under the Hot air gun, then I've cut out two short segments, which were glued between the two Feedline Brackets, wherewith these details get done now too. speak_cool.gif 

 

BLjUqF.jpg

 

Then the slant was glued under the Center support, which extends to the LH2 Cable Tray under the Crossbeam. And that was also the expected delicate matter both for my eagle eyes (+ Headset magnifying glass), cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif as well as for my quiet hand to place this part with the tweezers exactly as possible straightaway, what fortunately worked quite well. top.gif

 

iz8XuS.jpg

 

After that I immediately tried on the bow and checked its position in the contact zone under the center support and to the slant, and corrected its position still minimally. huh.gif

 

fyGspY.jpg

 

D9L8Ma.jpg

 

At the rear end of the slant now this CT-bow must be glued, as well as on it the remaining CT-Parts (Parts 4-6), which hopefully still fit in between. smiley_worship.gif

 

Following that, I will then bend the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line also from a Nickel-silver rod (Ø 0,4 mm), which goes from the last Ice Frost Ramp up to the Umbilical plate, but for the time will being not glued. The remaining GO2 Press. Line forwards up to the LO2 Tank will then later be installed as a separate line. up040577.gif

 

XBOPxs.jpg
Source: NASA

 

That's it for today, dear folks, and thanks for watching. up040577.gif 

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Hello friends,

 

after the bow has fitted quite well, I then glued it under the center support with the front slant and aligned immediately. cool.gif

 

x5t6s3.jpg

 

iSPUt8.jpg

 

When trying on the upper assembly group Parts (4-6), I unfortunately had to realize that this was a bit too high and did not fit into the gap.  up043952.gif Therefore, the upper disc had to be removed again and the slant slightly shortened. After gluing a new disc, the group was then glued into the gap and also aligned. top.gif

 

a7nGRY.jpg

 

RK37di.jpg

 

Fk31d5.jpg

 

Now I'm jolly glad that I also managed this tricky LO2 Umbilical, and am amazed that it  come off quite well, as I think. And since it is quite similar to the original, the considerable effort was well worth it. speak_cool.gif

 

Next, as already announced, I will now bend and adjust the end fitting of the GO2 Press. Line. up040577.gif 

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Hello friends,

 

then I'll continue with my pull-ups on the LO2 Umbilical. cool.gif But before I'll bend the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line, at first still to a last detail, which I wanted to leave out first, because I did not think it was that important.  rolleyes.gif

 

And that's this Bracket for guiding/stabilizing the Press. Line, which is mostly hidden on the photos and not completely visible,  hmmm.gif

 

LFInmx.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DaveS)

 

which is why I had to feel my way step by step, i.e. image by image.  huh.gif

 

In this photo one can see the oblique position on the inside of the Cable Tray, but otherwise one is groping in the dark. cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif

 

w8dj8x.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Here one can see already in more detail that these are two thin narrow struts, which are connected at both ends, 

 

rLfUBT.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

what one can also see in this picture, from which I have determined the necessary dimensions.  speak_cool.gif 

 

0E49xv.jpg
Source: NASA

 

On my first try, I glued Evergreen Strips (0,25 mm x 0,75 mm x 5 mm) together, using Strips (0,25 mm x 0,4 mm) as a spacer. But since the spacing for the Press. Line-Nickel silver rod (Ø 0,4 mm) seemed to be a bit too small, 

 

CFejMn.jpg

 

I've adjusted it for the second try by gluing Strips (0,25 mm x 0,5 mm),

 

hz1R3e.jpg

 

dejLGd.jpg

 

what comes already closer to the real conditions and looks better.  cool.gif

 

UrSvxF.jpg

 

When test fitting the bracket, however, it turned out that it was a bit too long, since it should end at the height of the upper ring on the Feedline

 

mmJscM.jpg

 

that's why I've shortened it by one strip width (0,5 mm),

 

PCPkj4.jpg

 

which looks more pleasing,

 

FBkzXj.jpg

 

and above all fits better into the mould, and thus could be glued in this position by means of MEK.  speak_cool.gif

 

HRBILv.jpg

 

With that I can now bend the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line and its three Fittings, what should be a bit simpler than at the GH2 Press. Line on the other side, I hope at least.  up040577.gif

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Oh my God! I'm afraid to watch this topic. I want to throw away all my models and never disgrace myself...

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Keep cool, Koshey, and don't worry. JC_doubleup.gif

Suck it and see! And above all, not giving up so fast, if something fails to accomplish. up040577.gif&key=37940a736477cc130c2717d

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Hello everybody,

 

so then to bending and installation of the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line. cool.gif

 

First of all, it is necessary to know the preliminary end point of this gas line in order to be able to start bending, but this time it is relatively easy, since behind the last Ice Frost Ramp from the Newware Kit (R25) there are only two bends in the pipe. 

 

rLfUBT.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

That's why I've used again my often shown ingenious Reference drawing from the recommendable ET Bible (System Definition Handbook SLWT - Lockheed Martin), from which one can take the exact location of the GO2 Press. Line (light blue) and of the GH2 Press. Line (red) direct next to the LO2 Feedline (dark blue). speak_cool.gif

 

bTjoId.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. II (Lockheed Martin)

 

And these three angles I've drawn into a 1:144 drawing of the ET cross section, and layed one of the 14 following Ramps (R23), in which both Press. Lines run up to the Intertank. top.gif

 

g3bZea.jpg

 

In this image, in front of it lays the last Ramp (R25), whose position next to the feedline is crucial for bending the GO2 Press. Line. top2.gif

 

SRqEou.jpg

 

In order to determine their position as accurately as possible and to be able to transfer to the ET circumference, I have marked corresponding markings for all three lines on a Masking tape (1 mm)

 

z2K7ol.jpg

 

This tape I've glued onto the ET and then threaded a short piece of the Press. Line (Nickel silver Ø 0,4 mm) through the Umbilical plate and the Bracket , as well as provisionally layed a longer piece of the line onto the tank.  

 

TugFfx.jpg

 

JpfDmO.jpg

 

In order to be able to determine the distances of the lines from each other as well as from the last ramp as exactly as possible, I have threaded the Ramp R25, as well as four Ramps R23 to the front, and have fixed the line in this position with tape. cool.gif

 

t6Yx7V.jpg

 

yeOIge.jpg

 

pp2Xzo.jpg

 

Afterwards the distance of both lines is approx. 2 mm, which agrees well with the distance determined from photos,

 

VJ1lRV.jpg

 

with which I could actually bend the short piece of the line. top.gif 

 

But to relax the eyes stressed out by the macro shots cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif is here a look from the normal viewer's perspective. 

 

VNj5FO.jpg

 

And since I was curious, I immediately made a first test-bending with a Copper dummy (Ø 0,4 mm), and as one can see here, the result looks already quite useful. smiley250.gif

 

RgKG6r.jpg

 

TgtSdF.jpg

 

hzl0Xd.jpg

 

Similarly, I'll now next bend the same line piece of Nickel silver (Ø 0,4 mm) and then also attach the three Fittings made of insulating tube, wherewith then the LO2 Umbilical would have been finished.  up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

today I have bent the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line made of Nickel silver (Ø 0,4 mm). But as one can see, while bending the wire in the tweezers too sharp bends arise in comparison to the copper wire, which is much more flexible (ductile), what I did not particularly like. rolleyes.gif

 

PWfSWy.jpg

 

That's why I've used my round-nose pliers, and lo and behold, then therewith gentler curves succeed,  speak_cool.gif

 

3Ir800.jpg

 

just as one can see it on this photo.  

 

up068262.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Then the test fitting on the Umbilical came, which was expectedly tricky, because I had to thread the longer upper part of the wire first from below through the narrow Bracket and then had to insert it into the opening of the Umbilical plate. smiley_worship.gif

 

DEDCUL.jpg

 

Then I also still managed to insert the shorter piece in the rearmost Ramp (R25), in front of which the long GO2 Press. Line had been inserted. top.gif

 

7s1T0R.jpg

 

Then I've also still cut the tiny Fittings from the thin Insulating hose (Ø 0,7 mm) in a known manner,

 

XewQVG.jpg

 

and have subsequently threaded the Press. Line, wherewith I am very satisfied for now.top2.gif

 

G5LhAD.jpg

 

But now the exciting question arises, how I should install this ringed end piece now best, since the upper ring cannot pass the narrow bracket? smiley215.gif 

 

Consequently, the ring must be removed before threading the wire in the holder and then re-fit without breaking off anything around. But how can one does it for heaven's sake in this cramped space, especially since the normal threading is already absolutely stressful,  eek.gif and one has to take care hell-bent, that the tiny midget does not jump? hmmm.gif

 

Therefore good advice is expensive, but maybe someone of you has a good idea that would help me?  huh.gif

 

In this sense, volunteers please step forward!  up040577.gif

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Hello friends, what's going on, really no idea? :hmmm:... Posting is silver, silence is gold ... 

 

At first, I've imagined of cutting open the tiny ring with the cutter, and then slipping it like a clip over the installed wire at its place close underneath the Umbilical Plate and to glue there. smiley215.gif

But the ring is really damn small, approx. Ø 0,7 mm x 0,5 mm, and can hardly be held with the sharpest tweezer. erschrocken3.gif

But then I've thought about the following bold solution. idea1_2.gif

 

My previous skepticism regarding the threading of the ring on the Press. Line was based on my up to now realized Mounting perspective. But then I came up with the idea to simply reverse the perspective and turn the Attachment upside down.  eek.gif

 

With that, the Umbilical plate lays below, and the ring would not fall down immediately, if one handle it carefully enough to place it over the opening.  up045518.gif

 

And that's exactly what I did. First, I threaded the two lower rings in front of and behind the bend, and then introduced the line from above through the Bracket.  

 

up069973.jpg

 

Then I threaded the upper ring onto a very thin Insect needle (Ø 0,25 mm) and inserted it next to the Bracket into the opening of the Plate

 

up069974.jpg

 

Then I carefully pushed the ring with the cutter tip to the plate and pulled out the needle very slowly, so that the ring came to lie directly on the opening. 

 

up069975.jpg

 

And then I held my breath and gently inserted the slightly sharpened line with the tweezer through the ring into the opening until the point under the plate appeared, with which my stunt was indeed successful. up053180.gif

 

up069976.jpg

 

And this is how the Attachment on the ET looks from both sides. up046118.gif

 

up069977.jpg

 

up069978.jpg

 

Now the Press. line can still be aligned a bit and glued in this position in the Umbilical plate and with the Bracket, whereby it would then finally fixed. up040577.gif

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Looks incredible, Manfred. I used to wonder how highly detailed kits were produced, as it seemed impossible for a model maker to build the tiny details in the masters from scratch. Now they all look quite rough to me in comparison with yours - though I should give the kit makers credit for having to engineer undercuts out of the parts (e.g. tubular pipework) so that they can be moulded. I can't wait to see the tank with paint on. Will you leave the GH2/GO2 pipes unpainted? If so, how will you mask them?

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Thanks Kirk for your nice response. :worthy:

 

Actually, I didn't want paint the two Press. Lines and leave them unpainted, even though the Nickel silver does not look quite like steel but a bit yellowish. :hmmm:

 

Otherwise, I would have to airbrush the lines before installing iron-colored. What would you suggest? up040577.gif&key=37940a736477cc130c2717d

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I don't have any clever ideas Manfred. I agree that the nickel looks enough like stainless steel to impress mortals, and can only think of painting them in petroleum jelly with a very fine brush before painting, on the basis that the paint wouldn't stick. I suspect other more experienced micro modellers (z.b. @Fritag, @perdu) may have better suggestions. :)

 

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Thanks Kirk, :worthy:

 

no problem, because I've found a steel wire (Ø 0,4 mm), which I can use unpainted for both Press. Lines.

 

7RpQPt.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Here one can see the comparison between Nickel siver and Steel. top.gif These are the two Ramps (R24) at the end of the GH2 Press. Line, before it runs up to the Crossbeam. Afterwards these 14 Ramps (R23) follow til the Intertank, in those both Press. Lines are running.

 

Ns0iWL.jpg

 

And here one can see the real Press. lines and the LH2 Cable Tray.  

 

Meca7I.jpg
Source: NASA

 

I think I can live with that.  up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

and after the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line now to the end piece of the GH2 Press. Line, which directly lies next to it and after two bendings runs slantwise upwards in the direction of Crossbeam, as one can see on this image. cool.gif

 

7RpQPt.jpg
Source: NASA

 

With this line I want to proceed the same as with the GO2 Press. Line and initially only bend its end piece from the last Ice Frost Ramp (R24) to the TPS cladding under the Crossbeam, because the continuation of the line on the LH2 Tank until the Fairing on the Intertank should also be installed separately. 

 

In the following image I have used a Steel rod (Ø 0,4mm) for the GH2 Press. Line and threaded it into the back three Resin ramps from the Newware Kit (NW 131)

 

Ns0iWL.jpg

 

And already as forward look and for the sake of completeness, in the following image are to see the 17 Ice Frost Ramps on the LH2 Tank , whereby the Ramps 1-14 (R23) are "Double"-Ramps (see previous photo).  

 

 

tI8wsD.jpg
Source: NASA

 

The connection point of this line piece at the TPS cladding under the Crossbeam can be seen in the following photos.

 

yOtJ2c.jpg
Source: NASA

 

ND3ldL.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

In this photo one can see in the zoom that in front of the Fitting in front of the TPS cladding also still a small Support is sitting.  huh.gif

 

hqT8Ui.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DDG40)

 

And that is this point here on the model, which has unfortunately proved to be too low with detailed review  spiegel-smilies-0002.gif and measurement of the gap to the LO2 Feedline Bracket, rolleyes.gif which is why I had to shorten the TPS cladding very carefully a little bit with a razor blade to create the required space for the little Support. top.gif

 

TAaHuv.jpg

 

And these are the required separates. The small Support I've cut off from the rest of the TPS cladding, in front of it lies the tiny Fitting made of Insulating hose, and in front of them the Cu dummy for the end piece of the Press. Line (Ø 0,4 mm). cool.gif

 

azklOx.jpg

 

And the test fitting of the Press. Line looks already rather well.  up035091.gif

 

IB6nYp.jpg

 

But with that I was again faced with the same problem of threading the tiny Fitting in the space of this gap ... smiley215.gif

 

But meanwhile I have some practice with it, and that's why I have prepared this time again a small Toothpick-Tape holder, as at that time in a similar action at the SSWS on the MLP

 

up054817.jpg

 

at its top of which this time the Fitting hung.  speak_cool.gif

 

Yj0d8D.jpg

 

The threading was again a similarly stressful and shaky matter with held breath as at the GO2 Press. Line, eek.gif but ultimately I was successfully again, as one can see.  up045518.gif

 

bbx08q.jpg

 

Now I can put the Attachment back onto the ET and determine the length of the Press. Line up to the lower two bendings in front of the rear Ice Ramp (R24), which can then be bent. up040577.gif

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Hello everyboy,

 

unfortunately, in the photos one cannot recognize the course of the GH2 Press. Line so good like that of the GO2 Press. Line, which is why I could not measure the length of the slant up to the lower two bendings directly. rolleyes.gif Therefore, after putting the Attachment on the ET, I could only mark the distance to the first bending after a painstaking threading of the dummy across the LO2 Feedline and through the opening of the small Support in front of the TPS Cladding, what a stressful fiddling was. smiley_worship.gif

 

Then I've tried to get made the two bendings with the round tongs in the smallest spaces, especially since their distances are minimal, as can be seen from this image. 

 

4t101W.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

And that's how the bended Copper dummy looked like,

 

czwVZa.jpg

 

which one can see here in the provisionally installed state. cool.gif

 

GE3W18.jpg

 

But somehow the shape and size of the lower bows did not agree, which were a bit too big, smiley215.gif 

 

N9xO19.jpg

 

because, as one can see on this image, the upper bending in front of the slant is much closer to the GO2 Press. Line. huh.gif

 

pZGdBt.jpg
Source: NASA

 

After this first impression, I've immediately took the Steel wire (Ø 0,4 mm) and bent it, but it is much harder and more resistant and therefore more difficult to bend, especially in the lower part of the double bendings, which is why several trials and test fittings were necessary. huh.gif

 

mEBWqB.jpg

 

At that it turned out that one can perform the lower two bendings only halfway accurate, if one leaves at the lower end first a longer end piece in order to be able to bend at all, and this only then shortens accordingly afterwards. top.gif

 

Threading the line was only possible directly at the Attachment

 

0oaH0S.jpg

 

sWwKDf.jpg

 

whereupon it could be put then onto the ET, in order to try then to insert the lower end into the rear Ice Frost Ramp (R24), but what was not successful instantly, because sometimes either the inclination of the slant or its length was not right, or the distances of the lower two bendings, or all together,  what was enough to drive you up the wall ... up043952.gif

 

7LjVkn.jpg

 

Therefore I'll show you the (preliminary) final result after the umpteenth attempt,  yikes.gif

 

jbS9EG.jpg

 

which was then satisfactory. smiley228.gif

 

oHqsAi.jpg

 

Rxri8X.jpg

 

This was followed by (only) still the exercise with the threading of the two Fittings, whereby the action at the lower end still before the threading of the Press. Line under the Crossbeam was comparatively harmless. top.gif

 

Yx7Imv.jpg

 

But then came the critical place in the circled gap, for what the line in front of the support had to be fixed with a mini-tape strip (arrow) in order not to constantly slip out again. shocked.gif And then I've channeled the Fitting ring, which was hanging at the Toothpick-Tape-holder again, into the gap, and carefully inserted the line with the sharpest tweezers, what then sometime has worked again ... speak_cool.gif

 

DLeSUu.jpg

 

But even to photograph these details, some pull-ups and appropriate mountings were needed to get close enough into a suitable position with the digicam,  

 

7sL7V2.jpg

 

ZNcnVo.jpg

 

in which the autofocus (with self-timer) could still focus, as one can see here. smiley192.gif

 

02HWFc.jpg

 

All in all, a rather time-consuming business with the scratching of such tiny details,  cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif whereby the joy is even all the greater when it has succeeded in the end.  up040577.gif

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Beautiful scratching Manfred!

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Thanks Rich for your nice compliment, :worthy:

 

I'm happy if you like it, but this ET/Orbiter Attachment with its Umbilicals was really one of the trickiest things I've ever scratched. eek.gif

 

At first I was skeptical if I would be able to do this crazy miniatures, :hmmm:  but nothing is impossible if one really wants it. up040577.gif&key=37940a736477cc130c2717d

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Nasa better give you the actual shuttle and the actual 747 for this. noticed in the picture looking down with a pair of pick up trucks and cars following. They sure don't believe in car pooling down the flightline.

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