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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6


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Hello everybody,

 

and therewith on to the Final Countdown! cool.gif

 

As one can see again in the following image, the substructure of the platform in the Paper kit is designed as a kind of plug-in connection, which gives the thin paper a certain stability which I've denied myself because Styrene (0,2 mm) is stiff enough and slitting the small parts would be difficult. huh.gif 

 

Likewise, the Cladding (Part 7) should be slotted and the Platform supports (Parts 4/6) should be inserted into these slots and glued, which appeared for me unnecessarily complicated. rolleyes.gif

 

50i2zd.jpg
Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

That's why I've modified the supports and cut out the contour of the curve so that I could glue it directly onto the cladding. up045518.gif

 

With the 7 Mini disks (Ø 0,6 mm x 0,2 mm) I want to try to indicate the screws on the small side claddings. up035091.gif

 

GHtpyf.jpg

 

After the 4 small plates for the motor feet were glued to the platform plate, this had to be fixed again accordingly for the secure gluing of the supports, 

 

dXCdg7.jpg

 

with which the platform was completed.  smiley228.gif

 

gKnlni.jpg

 

Then the platform could be glued to the case cladding. 

 

CD92qY.jpg

 

And then came the exciting moment of trying on the Propel motor on the platform, whose drive shaft, to my surprise, fitted perfectly into the socket of the dome-shaped attachment.  yahoo.gif

 

00agV2.jpg

 

On this image one can also nicely see the 3 screws on the base of the small cladding. up045518.gif

 

fr9vGY.jpg

 

And if I now calmly make me realize the size of this imposing couple once again next to the Euro Cent, yikes.gif

 

zmlj8b.jpg

 

then a small feeling of satisfaction and also proud of the result of my work creeps over me. up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

but in my euphoria I have now yet overlooked one assembly, namely this Fan unit (Parts 21-25), which looks formidable, but of course it shouldn't be missing. smiley228.gif

 

eX91H5.jpg
Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

EVhOlT.jpg
Source: NASA

 

And these are the parts required, 

 

LlFHLX.jpg
Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

whereby the Part 23 looks a bit bizarre indeed, so that I have to figure out how I can best scratch it. up040577.gif

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Hi Rich,

 

weird, :hmmm: but I feel the same way because this part 23 is small and has a very complicated shape that should be extremely difficult to handle when reassembling, especially on my small scale. :analintruder:

 

Therefore, I want to steer a middle course by trying to fold and glue the front box made of Styrene (0,15 mm) like paper, but initially without the tricky angled corners, which I will then glue in again using my Stripes technique as angles. smiley215.gif And the tricky rear rounded part of the blower together I will glue from two pieces of Styrene to get its thickness and fiddle it by hand to the final shape by filing. :yikes:

You have now built it from both Paper (1/96) and Styrene (1/72), can you say what was easier, or let's say less stressful? up040577.gif

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Hi Manfred,

  for me personally, I felt the paper was a bit easier to deal with. Just because it is easier to cut and smaller parts are not quite so thick.  However the other side if the coin is that, the styrene is much stiffer and makes a much more solid construction.

I did prefer paper on such a small scale.

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5 hours ago, RichO said:

Hi Manfred,

  for me personally, I felt the paper was a bit easier to deal with. Just because it is easier to cut and smaller parts are not quite so thick.  However the other side if the coin is that, the styrene is much stiffer and makes a much more solid construction.

I did prefer paper on such a small scale.

 

Thanks Rich, :worthy:

 

I fully agree with you, but with my small scale, I reach the limits of what is feasible with both paper and styrene ... :hmmm:

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48 minutes ago, Mustermark said:

Every time I check in on your progress I see mind blowing detail. Without your famous cent there, it would be hard to comprehend the small size, and even then it’s unbelievable!

 

Thanks Mark for your nice compliments.  :worthy:

 

As I've said to Rich, the problem is really my scale 1/160, which is actually too small for such crazy things, which is a real challenge for a halfway detailed replica that one has a tough time of it. :yikes:

 

But now that I've started, and so I somehow want to bring it to an end too, at any price. s-boese-wand02.gif 

 

I just have to come up again with a clever solution, idea1_2.gifthen I can make it. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

in the meantime I have started building the Fan unit (Parts 21-25), for which, as I said, at first I had a lot of respect, because the whole assembly is quite small and has an idiosyncratic and complicated shape, which is why I pondered for a long time about a workable solution that is still feasible, especially on my small scale (1/160).  smiley215.gif

 

First I've started with the simpler-looking front box (Part 21) and tried to fold it in the classic way out of paper and glue it (left in the image), but quickly noticed that the tiny angled corners would let hardly be glued cleanly, which is why I discarded this variant.  rolleyes.gif

 

Dni4nI.jpg

 

Then I glued the part onto Styrene (0,15 mm) and punched it out.  

 

O385qP.jpg

 

CD89lt.jpg

 

But this Paper/Styrene variant has also proven to be too complicated and unsuitable, since exact edges were even more difficult to fold, and the glued-on paper began to tear and peel off, wherefore I haven't even used the prepared angles for the corners.  hmmm.gif

 

tXdbw2.jpg

 

But famously there isn't just one way of doing it, and that's why I have omitted the sloping corners in the 3rd variant. As already with the Gear case I've then again pierced the corner points of the paper template on Styrene (0,15 mm), traced with a pencil and then carefully punched out the part. huh.gif

 

G5yStw.jpg

 

Then I carefully folded the main edges and glued in small triangular profiles to support the gluing of the sloping side walls, what has proven itself again.  cool.gif

 

xm6AlZ.jpg

 

Then the two angle strips could be glued into the front corners with sufficient overhang for handling, for which purpose the box was fixed again with super magnets.  up039822.gif

 

erZH9J.jpg

 

LBrUaE.jpg

 

For gluing the other angle I had to change the clamping accordingly.

 

gFZmtk.jpg

 

Finally, the protruding parts of the angles were carefully cut off with the razor blade and the edges smoothed. 

 

IfWLEM.jpg

 

Last but not least, I also still glued the inlet grid to the underside, for a better look.  

 

SA6BVk.jpg

 

Now only the narrow edge strip around the grid is missing (Part 22, red arrows), 

 

Z4fPnP.jpg
Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

which I will glue later, when this box is connected to the tricky Part 23, which is next in line, because it would only interfere during the final assembly. rolleyes.gif   

 

EMkB7E.jpg
Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

And for this idiosyncratically shaped part, which in addition to the lower rounding (Ø 4 mm) in the upper area is also still twofoldly slanted, shocked.gif I now have to come up with a special solution, idea1_2.gif because I consider making of the part provided in the paper kit to be hopeless due to its small size.  analintruder.gif

 

But at least I already have an idea how I can scratch that thing. einfall.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

I can tell you, this measly Part 23 of the fan unit really has it all.  shocked.gif

 

To get the required thickness (2,4 mm) of the rounded part, I first transferred the outline on a Styrene strip (1,4 x 5 mm) and filed it to the final shape, which was quite tedious. rolleyes.gif 

 

nohFX3.jpg

 

The second disk I transferred to a strip (1,0 x 5 mm), which was shortened by the upper side slant, because there I've planned a triangular profile for the slant to the rear. 

 

PBVu0x.jpg

 

After both disks had been glued and reworked, the triangular profile was glued on with a little overhang, which I then carefully wanted to punch off, but this failed because the part came loose.  up043952.gif

 

hnDyX2.jpg

 

So I shortened this piece accordingly, but due to its triangular shape it could no longer be gripped with the tweezers for the gluing, huh.gif which I've managed to do with a tape strip. smiley228.gif

 

61rNsw.jpg

 

After the slant has been carefully sanded, 

 

PzNBps.jpg

 

I was able to turn to the assembly of the front box, which has now also received the lower frame. 

 

QXpZlU.jpg

 

After I had marked the position of the box on the front of the rounded part, 

 

9iYMT0.jpg

 

the box could finally be glued, which was half the battle! The problem with gluing such small parts is always a stable fixation of the parts, without which it would not work. up045518.gif 

 

PsjujE.jpg

 

Now the only thing missing was the connection of the fan with the gear case, for which there is a small Platform (Part 25) on which a small Cylinder (Part 24, Ø 1,5 mm) is sitting, which is only connected to the fan, but not to the housing, 

 

VcSeIP.jpg

 

what I only recognized with the aid of the ingenious Truck 3D PDF. up039822.gif This area is no longer visible after assembly, but it doesn't matter, that's how it should be. cool.gif

 

DyfgUL.jpg
Source: MicroArtwork, Mischa Klement (cyana)

 

After trying on the fan, 

 

8Tqpcr.jpg

 

the cylinder could then be glued to the back, 

 

fx755x.jpg

 

C36UaT.jpg

 

followed by another try-on.

 

OKxeOM.jpg

 

Then the small platform was glued onto the cylinder, 

 

XaUS5F.jpg

 

after which the entire fan unit was glued to the housing, 

 

ceuvzX.jpg

 

H7fl4t.jpg

 

with which the gear case was complete. up035091.gif

 

Rmm68p.jpg

 

After a successful last try-on, I then glued the Propel motor to its housing platform, with which the work is finally done, whose result completely satisfied me. yahoo.gif

 

Djah2N.jpg

 

RO9nJe.jpg

 

With a little distance one can hardly guess the effort s-boese-wand02.gif and sweat that this small assembly has costed ... icon_sweat.gif

 

JvwPLl.jpg

 

BTW, my friend Joe (crackerjazz) has also found time again to continue with modeling of the Gear case and has posted another image of his 3D Model which shows that he's on a good track. up039822.gif

 

t2LqxY.jpg
Source: ARC Forums (crackerjazz)

 

And so it can go on. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

my friend Joe (crackerjazz) was very hardworking and has now completed the 3D Modeling of the Gear case, smiley250.gif which I would like to present here in some images. cool.gif

 

img%5D
Sources: ARC Forums (crackerjazz)

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

Without exaggeration, his model has become absolutely perfect, goodjob.gif which is largely due to the fact that he, like me, with the Truck 3D PDF and the Outlines PDFs by the ingenious LUT designer Mischa Klement (MicroArtwork) were able to fall back on perfect reference material, which was an invaluable advantage. up045518.gif

 

Now we have to see which details we may have to modify so that Shapeways can also print the model. up040577.gif

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Outstanding work Manfred!  Nice to relive this again, and admire your incredible miniature work.  looking forward to your 3D print and the next mini project here.

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Hello everybody,

 

here are some more images of my ARC friend Joe from trying on the 3D models of the Gear case and the Propel motor. cool.gif

 

img%5D
Sources: ARC Forums (crackerjazz)

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

And as one can see, both assemblies fit together perfectly. up045518.gif

 

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

How could it also be otherwise, after all, Mischa Klement, the creator of the ingenious Crawler Paper Kit (1/96) has worked on his project approx. 10 years, smiley250.gif which would once again prove that everything takes time, true to the saying: Good things come to those who wait! up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

in keeping with the last images of his 3D models, here is an interesting note from my ARC friend Joe, who said that this somehow reminds him of an AT-AT. smiley215.gif

 

Since I'm not a direct Star Wars Fan as an older semester, I first had to find out who/what was meant by that, but which my son was able to explain to me quickly. smiley228.gif

 

This is The All Terrain Armored Transporter, up037311.gif which many of you are likely to know ... up035091.gif

 

AT-AT_89d0105f.jpeg?region=138%2C19%2C13
Source: starwars.com

 

And I have to say, as far as the top part is concerned, the thing actually bears some resemblance to that Crawler Gear Case ... lautlach.gif

 

After that I've immediately returned the favor and thanked him with this image for his great work so far, bow.gif

 

GqKHx4.jpg 

 

which caused a sensation in the ARC Forums. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

after longer being busy with different Crawler assemblies now a change of scene, and thus after several earlier attempts back to the lighting of the MLP to finally bring light into the darkness on the Side 1. lampe-animierte-gifs-04.gif 

 

After I finally had decided on the cabling interface between the Pad and Crawler at the Pedestal 6 next to the FSS tower, I've defined once again the last division of the LED circles more precisely, based on my STS-6 reference photo. up045518.gif

 

frizR5.jpg
Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6)

 

And this is exactly how it looks on my MLP

 

epyKBs.jpg

 

So I've rummaged out the utensils from that time and tried to gradually recapitulate the handling steps, which took some time. hmmm.gif

 

At first, however, I proceeded rather naively, held the toothpick with the impaled ferrule in my right hand, held the tip in my left hand with tweezers and then carefully began to separate with a slight advance, which initially led to some losses, Bang - up and away ...  up043952.gif

 

0PV0Vc.jpg

 

To avoid that, I then put a kind of collecting cage under the cutting disc and held the tip with a pair of pliers, which then worked better. huh.gif

 

t74k8a.jpg

 

nfaZPa.jpg

 

Then I've searched my URL-Screenshot directory of my Building-report, which is meanwhile 120 pages long, and came across my Separation technique from the previous year, which had proven itself, because it was much more solid, but unfortunately no longer in my mind ... up040472.gif

 

Back then I had clamped the toothpick with the impaled sleeve in a small vise, held the tip of the sleeve with pliers, and then carefully pushed the vise towards the cutting disc, which worked well. up039822.gif

 

up073252.jpg

 

up073254.jpg

 

After the separation, the sleeves must then be deburred by carefully sanding. 

 

FgH7aJ.jpg

 

Then a small bead (Ø 1,3 mm x 1 mm) is glued with CA into each of the shades for better guidance of the LED wires,

 

up073258.jpg

 

what I'm going to do next. smiley228.gif

 

As a lesson from this dilemma, I have meanwhile begun to add matching keywords to my URL-Screenshot directory to create an smart Report-Index, what should need some time, rolleyes.gif so that I can directly search for it in future research and get to my goal faster. smiley215.gif

 

After painting the 20 lampshades required for the Side 1, the LED wires are threaded into them, followed by gluing the LEDs in the shades with Bondic UV adhesive and thus sealed at the same time. up045518.gif

 

Together with the appropriate dimensions I then send them to my friend Arno, who will then professionally solder up the 4 LED circles, bow.gif which I can then lay and test on the Side 1up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

the next step was filing down the lampshades, which had been cut off but still sitting on the toothpicks, to a length of approx. 1,8 mm, as well as the subsequent deburring.  cool.gif

 

5ye2FS.jpg

 

Since the small beads for protection and better guidance of the LED wires were glued in with Pattex-CA, I have put a Teflon foil underneath as adhesive protection again in the tried and tested way. huh.gif

 

The lampshades could only be held in a scissors tweezer to glue them in,

 

IYfdkm.jpg

 

and in this position could be carefully dabbed with CA on the inner edge with a acupuncture needle,

 

s3DNtG.jpg

 

and then to put it over the upright standing beads, what had to work at the first go,  up037312.gif which, with a few exceptions, also succeeded.  up039822.gif

 

iLHFL3.jpg

 

Then the shades were turned upside down and pressed onto the top with the end of the cutter holder in order to level out any minimal overhang of the beads. 

 

qnte0c.jpg

 

With that the preparation for the upcoming airbrushing was almost finished. 

 

6Kn4C0.jpg

 

After I had found my well-stowed needle ledge from the first paint job, only the paint residue on the tips had to be removed, otherwise the needles would not have fit through the beads. huh.gif And in a small box of course I've kept the ferrules with plastic collars

 

4uuqEH.jpg

 

which were now threaded onto the needles as spacers to prevent the shades from sticking to the Balsa ledge. hmmm.gif 

 

Since it was already foreseeable at that time that I would have to paint further lampshade series, I had already marked further slots in wise foresight. up035091.gif

 

up039258.jpg

 

And since I've prepared twice the number of umbrellas this time, I only needed to expand the needle ledge accordingly and found and used both the pins and ferrules that were used at the time. smiley228.gif

 

0ImVJd.jpg

 

Now only the shades had to be threaded onto the needles. 

 

Lvb5Kf.jpg

 

V6sMRc.jpg

 

In order to avoid a later light emission upwards, I brushed the shades with black paint again as I did back then. cool.gif

 

KS9m3c.jpg

 

Although the autofocus of my digicam already had its problems with this macro shot, rolleyes.gif

 

U20tCs.jpg

 

I didn't want to withhold it from you, especially since you can see a bit more like that, at least I imagine it. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

given the occasion, now still once more a swivel back to the Crawler, because the 3D printing of the Gear housings & Propel motors enters the decisive phase. cool.gif

 

In the meantime, my ARC friend Joe (crackerjazz) has thought about what he should hollow out on the gear case to save material and what small details he should fill out. Since filling out would take a lot of work, he agreed to my suggestion just to upload the model with the hollowed-out case and see if/what Shapeways would undertake with it. smiley215.gif

 

In this context he asked me which side of the gear case he should leave open, the rear side or the underside, hmmm.gif as one can see in this image, wherewith he pleasantly surprised me, since he's apparently intending to upload and let print the entire unit of housing & motor. smiley250.gif

 

lyT6R8.jpg
Source: ARC Forums (crackerjazz)

 

Thereupon I looked again at the corresponding Crawler videos by Jürgen Ziegler (FADDA)

 

r8NJ0Y.jpg
Source: Jürgen Ziegler (FADDA) - YouTube

 

VYoxAQ.jpg
Source: Jürgen Ziegler (FADDA) - YouTube

 

and have proposed him to leave the Rear wall open, as the case would be glued directly onto the truck's Center structure, as one can see in the two screenshots.

 

He agreed to this suggestion and has uploaded his 3D model file to Shapeways. up045518.gif

 

Unfortunately, the link shows the worst possible view of the model, namely from the bottom, which unfortunately almost completely covers the motor. rolleyes.gif

 

But in the 3D view one can turn in any view you want, which I once did here. up035091.gif

 

uoXBZc.jpg

 

BW7udL.jpg

 

In the best print quality Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic one unit costs € 10.01, and I've ordered one right away so that Shapeways' procedure of Processing and testing etc. can go started, which could lead to complaints about the printability of too small details, what we don't want to hope. smiley228.gif

 

BTW, I was shocked by the high Shipping costs, which are just as high as the production costs. up037312.gif

 

Now we can just wait and keep our fingers crossed. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

as a result of an initial review (Processing) by Shapeways (SW) the model was initially put on hold by production because of design issues. up037312.gif 

 

SW wrote to me this: 
This marketplace model is not printable in this material per our design guidelines. The designer has been contacted and has 7 days to correct the model, or it will be removed from this order.

 

SW has contacted the designer, my ARC friend Joe (crackerjazz), so he could decide what action to take on this model, they say. rolleyes.gif 

 

I hope that SW has given some tips on necessary changes/adjustments and have asked Joe to forward the SW answer to me, so that we can think together how we should deal with it. hmmm.gif

 

Perhaps the combination gearbox/motor is too complicated for 3D print. shrug.gif If that were the case, one could have both parts printed separately. 

 

So let's wait  ... up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

Shapeways has complained about the wall thickness of some thin struts, which are 0.240 mm and therefore would not correspond to the Design Guidelines. rolleyes.gif

 

Gxs7hP.jpg
Source: Shapeways Customer Service Team

 

My friend Joe (crackerjazz) could counter this rejection by increasing the wall thickness of this and other thin walls to 0.3 mm, which would then, in my opinion, comply with the SW Guidelines. cool.gif

 

It says in it: 
A supported wall is connected at least on two sides of the wall, while an unsupported wall is connected only on one side of the wall. Walls that do not meet the minimum requirements may not survive printing and cleaning processes. Additionally, models may still be rejected based on the wall geometry of the model. Please consider the size of your model and reinforce the walls or add support structures as needed as minimum guidelines will not always be adequate for large models.

 

And, as I understand it, this criterion should apply to most, if not for all, of the thin walls of the model. up035091.gif

 

up075453.png
Source: ARC Forums (crackerjazz)

 

So let's wait and see if SW sees it that way too, or what comes next ... up040577.gif

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