Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6

[roma847]

Thanks uilleann, 

 

you're absolutely right, and that's why I'm going to do a test airbrush  at my IT Dummy. 

[uilleann]

Excited to see it Manfred, your work here remains simply spectacular!

 

Brian~

[roma847]

Thanks Brian, 

 

for this I'll look at my color sample tests from the last year once again and choose a suitable color, for the Intertank probably the Vallejo Model Air 71.077 (Wood). 

 

 

Then we'll have a look at, I'm curious myself ... 

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

after the LH₂ Tank was floured, it was now the turn of the LO₂ Tank and first waited for his demasking,  

 

 

which was done quickly.

 

 

Then the rear, already floured tank was taped, 

 

 

and the ET impaled onto the bamboo stick for flour coating.

 

 

And then I went back to the flour cellar, only this time with reversed arrangement of the holding jig, since I am right-handed.  

 

 

Afterwards the warmed spray adhesive can was shaken vigorously again and the LO₂ Tank was sprayed all around and dusted abundantly with the rice flour, which was pressed on with the fingers.

 

 

The excess loose flour was then shaken off by tapping lightly.

 

 

And so everything should dry properly before the remaining flour can be brushed off.  

 

 

Until then we still have to be patient a little bit.  

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

after the Flour coating had dried through long enough, I carefully brushed off the excess flour.

 

While the result on this side looks perfect,

 

 

on the other side there were some strange unevennesses that I didn't like it.  

 

There was probably too much spray adhesive on it, or I had pressed the flour on too hard, which is why I've tried to gently flatten these areas with the abrasive sponge, 

 

 

and then to slightly deepen the grooves between the strips again with a needle.

 

 

Let's see what these places will look like after the priming, maybe I have to sand back everything anyway a littlee bit before painting, which I will still test on the Intertank Dummy.

 

But this looks already better again, and on the Original Tank (ET-8) not all places look the same too.

 

 

Speaking of the original tank, I should have had a closer look at it beforehand, then I would have noticed that the Nose Cone area at the top, immediately after the 12^th Ice Frost Ramp, was applied as Closeout and is therefore smooth.

 

Quelle: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

Therefore I carefully removed the flour layer there again. 

 

 

Now I will airbrush the primed Intertank-Dummy to be able to assess the effect with (above) and without smoothing of the flour layer (below), 

 

 

after which we're smarter then.  

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

meanwhile I have airbrushed the primed Intertank-Dummy, which has been sanded on one side, in order to assess both the effect of the floured Tape structure and that of the sanding effect of the flour layer, whereby there were problems with the sprayability of the selected Vallejo Model Air 71.077 - Wood, which surprised me.

 

But everything one by one.

 

First a look at my airbrush equipment, this is the Compressor with pressure tank (3 liters) and the high-quality Triplex Spray Gun. 

 

 

First I've sprayed a few tests, on the left with the Vallejo Model Air 71.077, and later also with the Vallejo Model Color 70.981 Orange Brown. 

 

 

The color difference to my former samples is immediately noticeable, in which the same color sample of the Intertank looked much darker. The basis at that time, however, was the somewhat modified color pattern, as one can see on the homepage of the provider, which actually looks a little different.

 

 

But also the color of the test-drops at the time looked stronger, which is why the sprayed Airbrush color is ultimately decisive for the assessment, which in turn also depends on the thickness or covering power of the layer, which I will have to pay more attention to in the future.

 

 

Then I've started airbrushing the IT Dummy and was surprised when, despite the filled color cup, suddenly there were no color spray, and the gun was clogged and had to be cleaned completely.  

 

 

Although the IT area shown has not gotten evenly much color, the result for the assessment of the SOFI Texture effect is completely sufficient for now, with which I can be quite satisfied,

 

 

because it comes very close to my previous ideas. In my opinion, the pattern structure looks quite realistic and is also gently adapted to the scale.

 

 

This is an image from a distance of approx. 30 cm, on which one can only just see the texture.  

 

 

On this comparison of the macro shots, one can see that the half that has been slightly sanded after priming (top) looks a little more pleasing, which is why I am still considering whether the effort of smoothing is really worth it, but probably already.

 

 

And here is my photo montage at that time with the now painted tank area, which in my opinion fits the ET-8 original photo pretty well,  

 

 

or what do you mean?

 

Now I've just to take a closer look at the problem of the lack of sprayability of my Vallejo colors and test them once again first.

[uilleann]

It's a little hard to tell as I'm only able to see the images on my phone screen at present, but the unsanded vs sanded is very subtle.  At first glance, I actually felt the unsanded looked slightly more the part.  But of course, everything changes with the advantage of seeing things in person.  Manfred, I dont doubt your abilities to discern which is best in the end for a moment!  😁

[roma847]

Thanks uilleann, 

meanwhile I know that I can also implement my initially dreamy idea of the admittedly tricky SOFI Texture fairly realistically, what pushes me further, ever further, ever further ...

[Mustermark]

The dummy is looking very nice, resplendent in its rust-coloured paint!

[roma847]

Thanks Mark for your nice compliment,

 

okay, this snapshot looks very promising, but we haven't yet seen the end of the matter, we say in Germany. 

 

The entire ET is already still a little bit longer than this IT Dummy, but I'm very confident, that I can do it. 

 

Therefore I have to deal with the sprayability of the Vallejo paints even more closely and test some options with Vallejo Thinner und Drying Retarder, because with a failed paint job one can ruin everything. 

 

And this risk I definitely want to avoid, because the previous effort was simply too great. 

 

 Meanwhile I've found this great video Thinning and spraying Vallejo Model Color and Model Air which I have to study, 

 

 

that gives me hope to understand everything a little bit better. 

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

after the more or less successful test airbrushing of the IT Dummy I have now removed an old burden. And that was the broken tip of the LO₂ Tank that fell off the table a long time ago, that's the Lightning rod at the top of the Nose cone cap.

 

 

The tip on the Revell-ET of my friend Thomas Emberger, who died in 2017, is approx. 3,5 mm long. But since I remembered a drawing from the George Gassaway collection, I was able to get the exact dimensions from it.  

 

Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

Thereafter the Length is 14,01'', i.e. 2,5 mm (1:144), and the Diameter is 6,89'', and accordingly Ø 1,2 mm (1:144).   

 

As one can see, this tip has a cone at the front, whose dimensions L=0, 4 mm, Ø 0,5 mm can be forgotten for a total length of 2,5 mm because it should very hard to get it done.  

 

First I've removed the stub on the cap and gradually drilled it out to Ø 1,2 mm. 

 

 

And coincidentally there is a round rod from Evergreen with exactly this diameter that I used. 

 

 

Then I've sanded off a 2,5 mm long tip at a slightly longer piece, 

 

 

and glued it into the cap. 

 

 

And this is what the tentatively attached cap with tip looks like on the LO₂ Tank, which is now complete again.

 

 

But I can't glue the tip in yet because I still need the opening for the priming and painting of the tank, for which it is impaled again on the bamboo stick.  

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

and with that I am back again to the paintwork, which seems to be a tricky chapter, which is why I have to deal a bit closer once again with the Spray(un)ability of my Vallejo paints.  

 

That's why I've turned back one year in my construction report once again, s. #1701, especially since I had experimented that time already with the thinning of the colors by adding Vallejo Thinner (71.061). 

 

Already that time I had noticed that the Vallejo Model Air paints were not sprayable, contrary to the opinion of my Airbrush Guru Heinz Wagner, what I had tested with his Drop method. According to this, a paint should be sprayable if the diameter of the color point of a drop from a drop height of 30 cm is between 11 mm and 14 mm, but what throughout was not the case.  

 

However, due to considerable health problems, he did not respond to my request that time, which is why I had left out the paint job at first.

 

In the meantime I have studied a few articles and videos and come to the conclusion that the opinions regarding the sprayability are multifaceted, sometimes contradicting and quite confusing.

 

In the process I have found among other things also this already mentioned video  Thinning and spraying Vallejo Model Color and Model Air, from which I had hoped for some clarification regarding the theme Airbrush from Vallejo Model Air & Model Color.  

 

Therein one is also of the opinion that no dilution would be required for Model Air, at best 1-2 drops per cup. In contrast, for the generally thicker Model Color a dilution (1:1) with Vallejo Thinner is recommended, i.e. 10 drops Thinner to 10 drops of paint, which can be mixed inside the cup.  

 

In addition, one should occasionally clean the nozzle cap during the airbrush painting with a Q-Tip with Vallejo Cleaner to prevent clogging. 
In order to reduce the risk of clogging during longer airbrushing, one could also add a drop of Vallejo Drying Retarder, which will delay the drying of the paint a little. For this reason, Retarder is more likely to be used for wet-on-wet techniques with Vallejo Model Color with a normal brush on the pallet, which should also reduce the skin formation on the pallet.  

 

Then Vallejo also still offers the medium Flow Improver, by which the flow properties of their paints Model Air and Game Air is improved with just a few drops. This medium also ensures that the paint adheres less to the needle when spraying or that the drying of the paint on the needle is delayed, which is particularly recommended for airbrush guns with a nozzle size < 0,3 mm.

 

So far so good. In order to find out why the Vallejo paints in my test airbrushing of the IT-dummy led to the gun being clogged, it was necessary to test the sprayability of the paints again with the Drop method.

 

And as one can easily see in the following image, the diameter of the color dots were both in the used Model Air (71.077), on the right in the picture, and especially in the Model Color (70.981), on the left in the pic, below the minimum diameter of 11 mm required for sprayability, which is why I need not be surprised about the clogging of the gun.  

 

 

Then I also tested my other Vallejo paints, which has led to similar negative results.

 

 

Therefore I have to dilute my colors before the next airbrush by adding Vallejo Thinner and a few drops Flow Improver so that the diameter of the color dots is in the range of 11 - 14 mm, which hopefully will make them better sprayable than before.  

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

poo-poo happens!

 

Unfortunately at the beginning of the week I had a stupid accident in our garden, from which I still have to recover ...

 

At our house, in front of a window in a basement room, there is an approx. 1,5 m deep circular light shaft with boulders lying on top of each other, in which I was fumbling about the roses there.

 

When climbing out, I had apparently not got enough swing with my left leg at the last step from the narrow rock edge upwards and therefore did not get past my body's center of gravity, but fell backwards into the shaft, especially since I could not hold on nowhere ...

 

 

At that moment only a flash of thought shot through my head ... Now it's going downwards ... Holy poo-poo!!!

 

Doing so I must have somehow fallen onto the left upper arm/chest/wrist, but luckily I did not ram my head against something ...

 

After I had arduously bobbed myself up, I felt pain on my wrist, which was rather scratched by the steel bracelet of the watch, and in the upper left chest area, as I had got to know it painfully years ago when I had a bruised rib ...

 

After recovering from the first horrors, I've got more momentum on the second try and was happy when I was atop again. Only then I've noticed that I had lost my glasses when falling, but luckily they were lying on the floor undamaged (red circle), thank goodness!

 

This will be a lesson to me, because next time I'm going to put a ladder.

 

The bad thing about a bruised rib is just that there is nothing one can do about it other than to be careful and preferably not cough, sneeze or laugh out loud ...

 

But the pain during deep breathing, bending down and lifting, and especially when sleeping, is very uncomfortable because one can hardly turn, which is why I had lost interest in building for now ...

 

So please be patient, I will get back as soon as possible and then it will continue.  

[uilleann]

Best wished for a quick and complete recovery Manfred!!

[roma847]

 my friend for your sympathy and the good wishes. 

 

However I will consult the doctor tomorrow , especially since the complaints have become stronger. 

 

This is how the scene of event looks from above. The last rock was just too high for a normal step ... 

 

 

The more I think about what could have happened, the more I have to be amazed at my risky recklessness, but that doesn't help anymore ...

But life goes on ... 

[Bigdave22014]

Gardening is dangerous.

Stay inside with those nice safe chemicals and razor sharp knives, where it is safe!

Speedy recovery mate.

[Space Ranger]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery. And take care. We don't expect you to simulate shuttle abort modes in addition to your incredible modeling skills!

[roma847]

my dear friends for your compassion and good wishes. The last rock was just too high for a normal step ...

 

Since I didn't want to take it lightly, I was at the doctor who checked me out today. But it is "only" a bruised rib, so no X-ray etc. is necessary. He prescribed a pain reliever, with which I should then be able to breathe deeply, which would obviously be important, as he means, what I'm going to comply then dutifully too.  

 

[bootneck]

dear oh dear.  It wasn't exactly "one small step for Man(fred) was it???   Please do get better soon and BE CAREFUL!  We need to see your build through to the end.

 

All the best,

 

Mike

[Bengalensis]

Dangerous outdoor activities... but it could have been a lot worse outcome. I hope you are back to full strength again soon!

[JeroenS]

This is why I never do any gardening... Way too risky. I'm happy just to sit in it and comment on the work done, although that too can be risky.

[roma847]

 my friends for your compassion and good wishes too.

It could have been ending much worse, but luckily my guardian angel was wide awake by my side ... 

Since it will take a while for the bruise to go away, I just have to be patient, but that's not a problem for me, as you know ... 

 

As a result, I now have enough time to deal with some Airbrush basics ... 

[Arild Moland]

I feel your pain, Manfred! Did a nose dive on a rock solid downhill passage while cross country skiing this past Easter, and bruised a rib or two. Took a few weeks to fully recover, but you'll get there. Thank goodness you missed those stones with your head!!! 

 

Good luck on your airbrushing endeavours! 

 

Arild

[roma847]

Thanks Arild for your compassion and good wishes. 

 

Oh, yeah, it takes some time ...

 

Meanwhile I know about rib bruises, because this is my third in the last 25 years, but now it's enough ... 

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

after I'm feeling a little better again, I want to get back in touch today and draw on my recent conversation with my friend Heinz Wagner, which first focused on the required consistency of Vallejo paints, which are to use for the Airbrush technique.

 

As I have learned in the meantime, it depends on the correct use of language, whereby in his opinion you have to differentiate between sprayable and ready-to-spray, what is not the same and is often confounded.

 

While the Model Air paints from Vallejo were specially developed for the Airbrush technique and are basically sprayable, the Model Color paints were specially developed for the Brush technique and are therefore much thicker, which one should know and also note.   However, this does not mean that Model Color paints are unsuitable for airbrush technique. One only has to dilute them accordingly so that they achieve the required consistency and can be applied with a spray gun. 

 

Therefore one should check the viscosity of the respective paints before each spraying, regardless if Model Air or Model Color is used, and dilute them if necessary with Vallejo Thinner, so that they are ready-to-spray, which can be tested with the Heinz Wagner Method already described.

 

Source: Airbrush beginners course, CD (Heinz Wagner)

 

But already at the name of the Vallejo Thinner one can start to ponder because one can find four different data for one and the same article as one can find on the Vallejo-Website, which is available in four different bottle sizes as required, but what you need to know:

71.261 (17 ml)
71.061 (32 ml)
71.361 (60 ml)
71.161 (200 ml)

Accordingly, a correct mixing ratio between paint and thinner is crucial for ensuring the ready-to-spray consistency of a paint. And that is evidently the crux of the matter, especially since there  is no patent remedy for it, but only empirical values that one can believe or not ...  

 

Therefore, one should not trust a mixture ratio that one has not tested himself and found to be good, based on the famous quote: Do not trust a statistic that you have not falsified yourself.  

 

For example, by Vallejo a ratio of 1:3 (Thinner to Paint) is recommended for the dilution of their Model Air series, but what can never be right according to my current level of knowledge, to be able to spray these paints easily.  

 

And also the filling up the Vallejo dropper bottles with Thinner, as it was recommended in the video by Jens Kaup in #1697, does not have the desired sustainable effect.

 

As one can see in the following image, the dropper bottle Model Air (71.130), filled up with Thinner a year ago using this method, is not ready-to-spray, which is clearly proved by the too small color point < 11 mm, when using the Wagner test. An airbrushing with this paint would inevitably clog the spray gun, which is why one shouldn't even try it.  

 

 

About this I recently spoke with Heinz Wagner, who has not been wondered at my initial failings.  

 

In order to get a feeling for a reasonably "normal" airbrushing at first, he initially recommended a mixture ratio of 1:5 (Paint to Thinner), which results in a much thinner, but therefor a ready-to-spray paint, what is indicated by the larger color dots (right) promisingly.

 

So I should first carry out the exercises described on his Airbrush CD and remember to occasionally clean the nozzle cap with Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner to avoid cloggings effectively.

 

Although I didn't take it that seriously at first, it seems to me that it is absolutely necessary and helpful for becoming more secure. However, the paint seemed to me to be a bit too thin, which is why I once tested a mixing ratio of 1:3 (Paint to Thinner), which led to a color point of Ø 13 mm, what suits better in my opinion.

 

 

And with this mixture ratio I will now carry out some exercises.