Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

but there is another interesting source, and this is this Airbrush Beginner Course CD by Heinz Wagner, which I had bought a long time ago and have now looked again. Therein my friend Heinz is presenting his Test method for testing and determination of the sprayability of colors that is simple yet ingenious.

 

First, I did insert a M5 Stainless steel nut as a mixing aid into all Vallejo vials, as described in the video by Jens Kaup in Post #1697, which surely can not hurt. 

 

 

Then I did shake each vial for three minutes,

 

 

as recommended on Heinz Wagner's CD, whereby I could hear the clacking of the nuts when shaking the Model Air colors, but not at the two Model Color colors (2nd row on the right) what suggests that they are thicker and therefore not sprayable at all, as indicated in the video, which is why a diluting with water 1:1 to 1:2 should take place.  

 

Source: Airbrush Beginner Course CD (Heinz Wagner)

 

And now to his simple Test method, whereby holding the vial on the top of a ruler (30 cm),

 

Source: Airbrush Beginner Course CD (Heinz Wagner)

 

and let dropping a drop from that height.

 

Source: Airbrush Beginner Course CD (Heinz Wagner)

 

And if the diameter of this color point is between 11 mm and 14 mm, the color should be sprayable in the opinion of the Airbrush Guru.

 

Source: Airbrush Beginner Course CD (Heinz Wagner)

 

And then I tried that,

 

 

first for the Model Air 71.033 (Yellow Ochre). But to my astonishment the diameter of the color point was < 10 mm.

 

 

And since the tests with the next three Model Air colors have shown this surprising result too,  

 

 

then I started carefully to add a few drops of the Vallejo Thinner step by step (3, 6, 10, 15 drops), then did shake again for three minutes and retested, but without getting drops > 10mm, which has disillusioned me pretty much.  

 

 

During dripping I also noticed that sometimes at first only a bubble comes out of the dropper and only then the color comes, and that the drops of paint on the paper have sometimes even contained air bubbles, which may possibly falsify the result. 

 

The following tests I have done on glossy paper, the first tests on the other hand on normal copy paper, because the absorbency of the paper could probably also have an influence on the diameter of the color points, I think, right?

 

 

After that I was stumped and a nervous wreck   and have communicated these results Heinz Wagner, in the hope that he has an explanation.  

[roma847]

Hello friends,

 

since the results so far have not convinced me, I have become more courageous and have according to the advice of Jens Kaup topped up the vial with the Model Air 71.077 (Wood) with Vallejo Thinner.

 

Then I did shake again for 3 minutes and then carried out the test. And lo and behold, this time the color points were at least approx. 11 mm in diameter, whith what I can better warm to.

 

 

As a result, his tip seems to be correct, especially as it meets the criterion of Heinz Wagner (> 11 mm), according to which this color should be sprayable indeed, what makes me smile.  

 

BTW, my friend Heinz has not commented yet, but I suppose he might be surprised by this result, I guess.

[xffw45343tg]

I do love the way you are so clinical Manfred. I saw something that said "about the consistency of chicken noodle soup" once and this probably explains why any airbrushing I have done has been so hit and miss. Thanks for showing that there are more rigorous ways to do things...

[Mustermark]

It is a complicated test, in fact. You are right that the texture and absorbency of the paper will have a significant effect.

Your thorough testing has given good results. I am used to the advice that for sprayability, the paint should be the consistecy of milk, which I find unhelpful... whole milk, 2%, skimmed? Some milk is like water! I think I have tended to use paint that is too thick and clogs or slows down quickly.

I like the advice here, and I will try it next time. 😊

Edited April 19, 2019 by Mustermark

[roma847]

Thanks Kirk and Mark for looking in on me again and for your kind comments.

 

BTW, the same tip had a modeler at ARC Forums, who said that the paint needs to be at the consistency of milk to spray through the airbrush.

 

This might be an appropriate comparison, but what does that tell me when a Vallejo Model Air Color stands in front of me whose consistency I do not know?

 

Unfortunately I do not have that milky feeling yet, and as one can see, even the experts' opinions are drastically different.

 

Or another good tip: The best way to test is to put a small amount into the airbrush and try spraying it ...

 

Okay, but this would mean a tricky trial & error approach for me, because everybody knows how fast an Airbrush nozzle clogs when using too thick paint, which is not sprayable. And then one has to clean the gun before the next attempt ...

 

That's why I first prefer a measurable test that somehow can communicate this feeling to me, especially now I want to use a new and better airbrush equipment. That's why I have to slowly approach ...

 

BTW, the test itself is very simple and not complicated, I think.

 

The proof of the pudding is in the eating ...  

[roma847]

Hello everybody, 

 

still under the impression of the many colorful Easter eggs I 've grabbed the brush and started to mix the first ET colors.

 

I started with the sprayable-thinned Vallejo Model Air 71.033 (ochre), which I wanted to darken a little with the help of the Vallejo Model Air 71.034 (sand brown).

 

 

For this I have filled 4 drops of the MA 71.033 in a crown cork and placed it next to my test drop on the image, whereby this shade corresponds pretty well with the bright ET color tone in the lower part.

 

 

Then I added a drop of the MA 71.034 to it and mixed it with the brush, what corresponds about a shade between MA 71.033-B-30 and B-40, 

 

 

whose test brushstroke I've put on the lower ET area, 

 

 

and in front at the Nose cone that of pure color MA 71.033.

 

 

And already with this mixture, some of the shades can be quite well represented, I think.  

 

 

And so I will now also test the shades of the other two colors MA 71.076 (skin color) and MA 71.077 (wood).  

[Mark Szeman]

Very clinical Manfred and a good method, albeit I personally find the milk consistency measure to be better for me. When in the cup of the airbrush (i use pipettes) if its a milk consistency and gives an even coverage on the side of the cup without the film of paint breaking its just right. 

This is about the best way I can describe it, if its nice and even and the surface tension doesn't break the film of paint like in the image below then its good. 

 

I generally go with this, even though its more touchy feely, I've found it a better all round when working with a variety of paints, e.g. i don't know if your drop method would work with other paints, Tamiya paints have a very good pigment and basically sprays well in a wide range of thinning ratios and air pressures, their lacquer paints in particular I found are idiot proof, I've over and under thinned them, and sprayed at everything from 12-15 psi all the way up to 45-50psi, and it comes out just fine.

 

On another note, I would spray your colours onto a material that better represents what you will be painting, like if you plan to prime with grey, then spray the number of coats you plan to spray on the model onto a grey primed example, the shade of primer under your paint can make a difference especially when using such bright low coverage paints, depending on how many coats you plan to give it.  Brush painting will give you a slightly different look/shade. Looking forward to see the main booster painted, excellent work as always  

[roma847]

Thanks Mark for your experience and helpful comment.

 

As I know from Heinz Wagner, one can use his Drop Test Method for all kinds of colors to test and adjust their sprayability.

 

As for the color of the Primer, I can fully agree with you. That's why I've used the same white Vallejo primer for testing on my ET Dummies, coated with flour, which I will use later on the ET of the Shuttle stack too.  

 

Source: modellbaukompass.de

 

And therefore I will also test now the selected color shades on my ET dummy.

[Mark Szeman]

27 minutes ago, roma847 said:

Thanks Mark for your experience and helpful comment.

 

As I know from Heinz Wagner, one can use his Drop Test Method for all kinds of colors to test and adjust their sprayability.

 

As for the color of the Primer, I can fully agree with you. That's why I've used the same white Vallejo primer for testing on my ET Dummies, coated with flour, which I will use later on the ET of the Shuttle stack too.  

 

Source: modellbaukompass.de

 

And therefore I will also test now the selected color shades on my ET dummy.

Cool I thought you would be doing so   being so thorough in everything else   Just from the example pictures of the paints brushed out on the strips of what looked like paper I was worried   Excellent stuff as always

[roma847]

Thanks Mark for your nice support, it's all okay. 

 

Hello everybody,

 

and so the mixing went on.

 

As previously announced, I first tried mixing the lighter color shade, namely from the two colors MA 71.076 (Skin Tone) and MA 71.077 (Wood), 

 

 

whereby I have dripped one drop of each color in the crown cap, which already run into each other here.

 

 

And so the mix of both colors looks like.

 

 

And as one can see in the reference photo, the shade of the mixture (1:1) is almost perfectly hit right away.

 

 

Then I also tried mixing the darker color shade of the IT for which now still the color MA 71.034 (Sand Brown) comes into play, which I've mixed together with the MA 71.077 (Wood) in several tests with different proportions MA 71.077: MA 71.034, whereby I've slowly felt my way, from 1:1, over 2:1 and 3:1, up to 4:1.

 

 

Here is the comparison in the mixing ratio 3:1 to see, which already fits relatively well to the IT's color shade, whereby 2:1 looks similar.

 

 

And here all previous color shades are to see once again.

 

 

After comparing the Mix shades on paper now the comparison on the white primer on the Flour&Strip Texture of the ET Dummy is to be done, which will give yet the final indication of how well the shades actually fit the reference photo, whereon I'm very curious.  

[Mustermark]

Great work Manfred. Can’t wait to see it on the flour coated test article!

[roma847]

Thanks Mark, 

 

let's wait and see ... 

[roma847]

Hello friends,

 

here are the first pictures of the Mix color shades on the both floured and partly twice primed dummies with the five different Stripe patterns, cf. Reply  #1671
, whereby I have applied the colors not by airbrush, but with the brush.

 

In the foreground of the following color-tone comparisons stands my favored Pattern 2, consisting of single turns of 0,75 mm Tape (distance 0,5 mm), glued as a continuous spiral (Barber pole).

 

 

The three Mix color shades in the following picture correspond to the last preferred MA Mixtures, 

 

Mix-1 - MA 71.076 (Skin Tone) : MA 71.077 (Wood) - 1:1

 

Mix-2 - MA 71.033 (Ochre) : MA 71.034 (Sand Brown) - 4:1

 

Mix-3 - MA 71.077 (Wood) : MA 71.034 (Sand Brown) - 3:1

 

 

here again from a slant position. 

 

 

And this is the comparison on the short dummy, which was both once and double floured, cf. Reply #1680

 

 

And this is the Mix-1 on the once-floured area. 
 

 

These are the Mix color shades on the two dummies in a vertical arrangement, first on the big dummy, 

 

 

 

and here on the short dummy, where the simple flour state seems to me almost as sufficient.  

 

 

 

 

And finally still the comparison of the three Mix color shades with the reference photo, whereby the Mix-1 fits best to the brighter areas of the Closeouts.   

 

 

In contrast, in my opinion at the Mix-2 for the LH₂ tank, 

 

 

and even more so at the Mix-3 for the Intertank is missing a little bit of Orange. 

 

 

These two color shades came out much better on paper, 

 

 

wherefore I have still to modify their mixture by adding a bit more Orange.  

[roma847]

Hello friends,
it must go on, and that's why Get to work!  

 

For a change, I've went back again to the ET, on which still some things are to be removed, before it becomes serious with the final Flour coating.

 

But first I had to fill some places on the glued seams of the two tank parts, for what I have used the white Quick-Putty of Simprop, which can be quite well processed and after about 30 minutes be sanded both dry and wet.

 

While I first used coarse and finer grinding sticks after drying the filler, the final sanding step was done wet with Tamiya Abrasive Sponge (2000), which therefor is suited outstandingly.

 

 

Then I have begun to remove the Press. Line and the Cable Tray on the LO₂ Tank, which I did bit by bit with the Chisel cutter, which was quite tedious.  

 

 

 

Then the Press. Lines and the Cable tray on the LH₂ Tank came under the chisel knife, whereby I've first cut off the Cable tray piece by piece and then the two Press. lines.

 

 

 

While remaining remnants can easily be scraped off with vertical standing chisel blade,

 

 

the fine sanding followed again wet with the sanding sponge, after which nothing remains of remnants to see.  

 

 

The four Supports of the LO₂ Feedline can remain in place because they are sitting in exactly the right place. It just lacks the front Support immediately behind the Intertank, which will be scratched.  

[Mustermark]

It’s getting exciting again. I will make some popcorn and pull up a chair!

[roma847]

Thanks Kirk and Rich for looking in on me again surreptitiously. 

 

Thanks Mark and stay cool - Haste makes waste! 

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

so everything would actually be prepared so far that I could start with the gluing of the continuous spiral (Barber pole) from the 0,75 mm wide tape strip, with which I wanted to simulate the SOFI Pattern, which is followed by the Flour coating as well as priming and airbrushing.

 

But since I'm still not completely satisfied with the quality of the Flour Coating, I wanted to try a few things before yet. Therefore, I will do another Flour coating attempt, for what I have first looked at the local flour varieties in the supermarket. 

 

And as I stood in front of the shelf with the many flour bags and was spoiled for choice, stood next to me an elderly woman, who somehow looked competent in terms of baking. And then I asked her briefly if she knew which flour would be especially fine-grained.  

 

And her tip was Rice flour or Cornflour, whereupon I then searched for.   Bur since faced with so many bags I haven't seen any Rice flour but only found the cornflour, a coworker could show me the rice flour.

 

At home I then made the comparison to my so far used wheat flour by Heimatsmühle (Type 405),

 

 

the sample of which can be seen on the right in the next picture, whose loose bulk is similar to the cornflour, with both varieties lumping a bit. In contrast, the Rice flour actually seems to be more fine-grained and trickles rather than lumping, which gives me hope for a better result in the Flour coating.

 

 

Then there was the unanswered question as to whether I should glue the Ice Ramps for the two Press. Lines  before or after the Flour coating, whereby I meanwhile tend to the first variant.

 

But then it is necessary to mask the glued Ramps before Flour coating, which is why I tried the Maskol by Humbrol, whereby I was amazed and frustrated that the stuff in the jar was almost completely lumped, because it was probably already too old.  

 

Here one can see a few drops of the residual liquid on a Styrene plate and on a glued small piece of Evergreen profile.  

 

 

After drying, one can easily peel off the rubbery skin. 

 

 

Then it was time for the preparation of the new Flour coating test, for which I've used the now no longer needed Airfix Intertank, on which I've glued the 0,75 mm wide tape strip as a continuous spiral (Barber pole).  

 

 

This time, I have dispensed with the 0,5 mm wide spacer strip and glued the strip by eye and pressed on each winding immediately a bit stronger, whereby I have even reduced the distance even slightly.  

 

 

This brought the strips even closer to the estimated Valley-to-Valley distance of approx. 1,3 mm.

 

For this complete gluing of the IT I needed about 1 h , which was certainly pure stress for my still sharp eagle eyes, whereby I'm amazed at how evenly I have managed this.  

 

 

Here are two more shots in daylight. 

 

 

 

Next to come are the 'masked' Ice Ramps.

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

and now to the announced Ice Ramps from the Newware-Enhancement Kit (NW131), which I wanted to glue on before Flour coating and therefore had to mask, in order to protect them, for what I used Maskol.

 

These are two of the Ramps (R23), 14 of which sit on the LH₂ Tank. I've glued the left ramp directly onto the tapes with Pattex-CA, the right one directly onto the uncovered place, to see how far the ramps and their openings for the two GH₂/GO₂ Press. Lines will be covered by the flour coating.

 

 

Here are the two Press. Lines (2'' in reality), for which I'll use Nickel silver (Ø 0,35 mm).

 

 

Afterwards, the ramps were masked with Maskol, whereby I hope that the masks can still be removed well after the Flour coating.

 

 

And so nothing stands in the way of Flour coating with Rice flour, on the result of which I am already curious.  

[DalekCheese]

Coming on nicely  

[roma847]

Thanks Dalek for looking in on me. 

[xffw45343tg]

Gluten-free modelling. This may catch on, although I expect it to be around 20% more expensive than the regular styrene sort and a little dry, so probably best to pour an extra beer or two...

 

[roma847]

Thank you Kirk, then let us toast.

 

Cheers!

[roma847]

Hello friends,

 

after the Flour coating with the Rice flour, I can now show the images too.  

 

Here the Intertank Dummy already hangs in my tried and tested Flour chamber,  

 

 

and is waiting for the UHU glue spray mist,

 

 

which has covered it here after some turns from all sides.

 

 

And then followed the generous Flour coating with the rice flour by using a sieve,

 

 

whereby the flour was pressed smoothly between several times with the finger, which this time everything went much looser from the hand.  

 

 

Finally, the loose flour was removed by tapping at the rotating rod,
 

 

so that everything can dry thoroughly first, and then tomorrow the excess flour will be brushed off.  

[roma847]

Hello everybody,

 

now I can also present the pictures after brushing off the surplus flour, which have pleasantly surprised me,

 

 

because now the proportions of the SOFI-Patterns fit much better to the diameter of the Intertank, which results in a completely different and more realistic look of the texture,   

 

 

especially since the floured surface looks much finer and smoother this time, which is certainly due to the finer Rice flour. And if I now imagine this structure with primer and painting, then this should presumably give a quite acceptable overall picture.

 

 

And then I carefully subtracted the Maskol bonnets from the Ramps,

 

 

 

whereby I had to realize that the ramp, glued onto the tape strips (left) had no proper hold and has gradually peeled off during unmasking.

 

 

Consequently, the splices for the Ramps should be exposed before the Flour coating and covered separately either with a piece of masking tape or with Maskol and then the Ramps to glue only after Flour coating.

 

And with these positive impressions, I can now continue with a clear conscience.  

[Bigdave22014]

Well, I never thought I'd be impressed by someone putting masking tape on a model......