Tamiya Masking Tape

[amcb10]

Hi all, new to the forum so apologies if this is in the wrong section.

I have recently taken up modelling after a 15 year break and things have certainly moved on in that time.

I used to be a pant brush man but decided to take the plunge and buy an airbrush which I am very pleased with, especially the results.

Problem I have is I recently primed a model using Vallejo surface primer and after 24 hours I masked off an area for painting. Upon removal of the tape it also removed a large portion of the primer layer.

Prior to priming I washed the kit in soapy water to remove any release residue so not really sure where I went wrong so would apprciate some tips for the future.

Thanks

[viscount806x]

Try a more powerful primer next time like Halfords car stuff in a rattle can (grey or white).

[Mike]

Hello chap - I'll shift this to the right place, don't worry

Paint lifting can be for a number of reasons. It could be finger oils from handling after cleaning, it could be that you're not using a sufficiently grabby primer, or it could just be bad luck. Vallejo paint isn't that tough when dry, but as it's your primer that came off, it's the bond between that and the underlying plastic that's in question.

Try wiping your model down with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA or Isopropynol) before you paint, and then handle the model only with a photo-inspection glove (which will make you look a little Michael Jackson like, but don't worry). Failing that, try a more hard-wearing primer such as Alclad - I use their white, grey and black primers exclusively. I'm a little dubious of acrylic primers, as I can't believe they can grip better than ordinary acrylic paint

Also, whenever I spray a model, I always whip off the masking immediately, so that the tape doesn't get a chance to get comfortable and refuse to let go of the paint.

You could also try lightly "scuffing" the model with your finest sanding sponge, just to give the paint a bit of "key" to the surface.

One, some or all of the above might help

[Foghorn Leghorn]

Vallejo is very delicate and is prone to lifting with any masking tape. It's ok once you've got a varnish on top of it (like Klear) but I use Halfords plastic primer (in a can) as it's good, robust stuff.

Vallejo is great paint (I use it a lot) but it will lift with masking tape

[amcb10]

Can you reccomend which Alclad primer to buy, seen a few on Ebay but seems there are different types.

Thanks

[Mike]

I think they're just known as Alclad Grey, White and Black primers. They're cellulose based, so get some thinners to clean your airbrush afterwards (or their own cleaner), and they spray like a dream... I seldom use anything else, and I even use the White Primer as my white paint too, as it covers so well. I see little point in using anything else really

[oggy4624]

Alclad primer is notorious for taking weeks to cure, sometimes.

Halford rattle can primer is excellent and easy to use.

I have used both ,save yourself the agro and leave the alclad primer alone.

[Rick Brown]

I must say I've converted over to Alcad primers and agree with Mike. Just don't spray too much on at a time or too far from the surface else you have a bit of rubbing down to do. I haven't noticed it takes days to cure, maybe its just that I tend to prime then paint a few days apart anyway.

I've also used the other mentioned primers, all of which pretty well stay put, although the Vallejo one (which goes on really well and Vallejo MA seems to love it as a base) is a bit delicate when handling.

The Alcads I use are sold as " Primer and Micro Filler" and just pick the colour depending on what your going to spray over it. I like the grey as its easier to see afterwards and goes under all the camo I tend to model.

Good luck, and wear a mask, Alclad primer STINKS!!!!!

Rick.

Edited October 23, 2012 by Rick Brown

[cuprar]

Try a more powerful primer next time like Halfords car stuff in a rattle can (grey or white).

Saying that, I've had problems with Halfords primers lately. No matter what I do it would pull off!

[Richard M]

I find with Vallejo primer it is best to let it dry for at least 2-3 days to really fully harden and cure. I find that trying to mask, or sand it before this just causes it to lift and peel. The Vallejo acrylic paint I find needs about 24 hours to fully cure. To try to minimise it pulling up I use the Tamiya tape in conjunction with paper masks, so there is only a 2mm or so strip of tape around the paper in contact with the paint and I avoid using large areas of tape in contact with the primer/paint.

For masking large areas to prevent overspray etc, clear food wrap is very handy. It conforms to shapes and doesn't stick or pull up the underlying paint.

e.g thin orange card used with yellow tamiya tape and clingfilm food wrap. Airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air acrylics.

[amcb10]

I would have never thought of cling film

[fu_manchu]

I would echo what Mike and Rick have said. For me, a primers main purpose is to strongly bond to the plastic so that less robust paints have something to bond to. The second purpose is to provide a way to neutralise the plastics base colour e.g. if it is too lurid for the main scheme. Therefore, for me, using a neutral colour 'regular' paint doesn't meet my first requirement. However nothing can work miracles, so any grease or contaminant like dust need to be removed first. Once I have washed the kit and have clean plastic I always use Alclad primers. They have three colours which pretty much set me up for any paint scheme over the top. In terms of drying, unless I have been completely kack-handed and sprayed it on waaay too thickly it be dry within minutes and offers a very strong bond to the plastic.

Ian

[gcn]

I think the curing problem with Alclad primers goes back to their gloss black primer. I always use their grey primer and its a joy to use, Mr Surfacer thinned with their thinner behaves very similar IME.

I never got on with the Halfords primer despite shaking it like a loon and heating the can I always got a rough finish. It does cover in seconds though.

[Mike]

Alclad primer is notorious for taking weeks to cure, sometimes.

That was a batch of gloss black primer from years ago, and a one-off. That sort of blunderbus comment that's only loosely based on the real facts is the sort of thing that becomes a "factoid" if it's repeated enough. Look at the tooling for the Monogram B-24J that's supposed to be languishing on the bottom of the ocean floor. Until Monogram re-released it of course

[oggy4624]

I have given it a chance 3 times and it would probably still be tacky.

Not a blunderbus but a sniper rifle, and actual facts - I can supply you with a couple of tins.

Yes, it was the black.

Edited October 26, 2012 by oggy4624

[Spikelhund]

Another vote for the Alclad 'Primer and Micro Filler', I found it was dry within minutes, very durable and incredibly thin and smooth. Top stuff! Do wear a proper face mask though.

Cheers...

Edited October 23, 2012 by Spikelhund

[amcb10]

Does Alcalad require spraying outside then?

I dont have a lot of room in my little modelling room and dont want to be stinking the whole house out.

[Spikelhund]

I use it inside but with the rooms door shut and a window open in order to keep the rest of the house clear as possible, I use a mask as it's not a good idea to breathe any paint fumes in, It's a strong smell rather than an unpleasant one. I model in the conservatory so I know how your stuck for space.

Cheers...

[kev67]

Alcalad is pretty good stuff on all accounts so I have been told, but I don't touch the stuff because it stinks to high heaven, and I prefer to be on good terms with my misses, so I only use plastic primer from car shops and it doesn't have to be Halfords own brand, as I spray these out side anyway, the only downturn is that you must have a nice day with no wind, but as it is hard drying I find you can easily sand back the primer with a fine wet and dry cloths to get a smooth finish, I still wear a mask out side as well.