edi956 Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 After having experienced the BRM engine, for 1968 McLaren bought five Ford Cosworth DFV and a new car was designed by Robin Herd (who left the team to join Cosworth Engineering) and completed by Gordon Coppuck. The aluminium-skinned monocoque tub was shaped over three bulkheads, the structure being an open-topped 'bath-tub' with glass fibre body panelling above the driver's legs and round the cockpit. The bulkheads were complex 20-gauge steel fabricated box-sections, one sited right at the front to carry the front suspension and steering; the internal centre bulkhead provided anchorage for the front suspension trailing links and the rear bulkhead behind the seat carried the fully-stressed DFV engine and provided pick-ups for the rear suspension radius arms. Outboard coil-springs with co-axial Koni dampers were used front and rear. The gearbox was the five-speed Hewland DG. The M7A's brakes were unusual for a British F1 car in being by Lockheed instead of the almost universal Girling set-up. They had produced a new 10 1/2in diameter ventilated disc and caliper. At that time ventilated discs were unusual in F1. McLaren cast four-spoke 15inch magnesium wheels were used. Water cooling was by a large Serck radiator outrigged ahead of the front bulkhead, hot radiator air being exhausted upwards through glass-fibre ducts formed into the very shapely nose body section. Oil-cooling was by radiator stayed above the gearbox, the cylindrical dry sump oil tannk being slung alongside it. Water pipes ran externally either side of the tub. During the 1968 season different experiments were done: 1) Lancia-Ferrari like panniers at Jarama; 2) a right-side only long-range tank and first rear wing at Rouen (like those used at the Canadian and US GPs); 3) short nose at Monaco; 4) engine-cover, different rear wings and front flaps at Spa Other changes will be explained during the WIP. Most of the history was taken from "McLaren - The Grand Prix, Can-Am and Indy Cars" by Doug Nye. For the version of the model my choice is the M7A chassis 3, which McLaren drove to the victory at Spa (Ver.B - K234). This was the first victory in a GP for McLaren driving a car with his own name. Before, the same year, Bruce won the Race of Champion too, but it was a Non Championship Race. THE KIT For me the best Hiro so far. Perhaps some pieces are in excess and a couple of very very little mistakes, but this time MFH did all what there was to do. These are the main body parts: As usual I begin with their fitting-test: Then it's time to rivetting (0.4mm Master Club + 0.5mm ScaleHarware): Finally a mounted again the main body, masking were needed: After Zero Paints painting, decalling and clear coating, here the main body: Now, we can remove the masks: The red arrows show that the chassis was also painted with orange ZP, as they are used at the time: Here the red arrows show where was used Gunze Super Metallic Plate Silver: Finally, the other parts of the chassis were added: The red arrows show the 0.7 mm ScaleHardware Hex-Bolt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 THE COCKPIT. Take a look at these pics of the time: The first is the car under construction, the second is the car at one of the first GPs. Now a look at the same car at the following GPs (first 2 pics is France, last pic is Canada) and note how different is the dashboard: The tachometer was put on the left, whereas the two little manometers on the right and far on the right; moreover appeared some switches and a red lever on the left. Therefore the dashboard of the kit, being like the first pics, is right for the previous GPs but is wrong for the other GPs. The dashboard of the kit is a simple p/e piece; even painted black as by instructions it will remain too flat. As you can see in the previous pics it had an "anti-reflex" surface. Therefore I changed that of the kit; before I make a copy with a TAM tape (the dashboard is under it): Then I cut a piece of plasticard with the same shape of the dashboard of the kit; over it I glued a piece of 80 abrasive paper with the same shape; then I make holes for tachometer/manometers, for steering and for rivets; finally I paint matt black: Then I add all the "clocks", already with decals and Micro Kristal Klear: Over the "clocks" I add some "O-ring" by MFH: The key on the right will be used in the following step. As you can see in the first pic of this post, on the left of the chassis there is a 5 holes series: they are used to insert that kind of key to keep in place the wires: Then I add the identificative plaque (A) and I changed the brown of the gear lever, adding a white circle on the top as the actual car ( : The plaque was a decal, but I prefere to attach it over a 0.2 lead foil, which I glued on the dashboard. Finally I add the fifth "keys" I had forgotten before (red arrow) :mrgreen: : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 COOLING TUBES On the left side of the car runs a cooling tube: The one on the right side is smaller and shorter and runs under the bodywork. I decided to remake those of the kit, instead of polishing, sanding, and so on: So I cut away the clamps, and after enlarging the holes, I insterted the new one (red arrows): After having painted semigloss black the clamps, I glued the tubes on the body: Not finished yet, because, as you can see in this pic of Bruce at the Nederland GP, there was another band over the black clamp, keep in place with two rivets: So it has to be done. From a 0.2 mm lead foil I cut a stripe which I moulded on each tube: Then I put the new lead clamps on the previous one; I made two 0.35 holes on each one and I inserted two 0.4 rivets by ScaleHardware: FRONT SUSPENSION. Few to say: mounted OOB a part of the calipers (treated in a new post with their wiring) and the colours of the dampers: The red arrows show where I painted matt aluminium, while disks were sanded without painting. Hubes were painted with Matt Black + Gun Metal; suspension arms semigloss black. The lower part of the dampers was painted semigloss red and washed with smoke; instructions say to paint black but, as you can see in this pic took at Reims, they were red, both rear and front: Here the roll-bar was added: Then the front radiator was fixed, after sanding and washing with a very diluited mat black: Here the connections between cooling tubes and front radiators: Finally the body part which cover the front bulkhead: The front is finished, a part of the brakes wiring which I treated in a new post, as sayd before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 THE SUSPENSIONS Here a couple of pics to show you front and rear suspension. Take a look to dampers: The last one was just taken at the 1968 Belgian GP. Hiro's instructions say to paint the dampers flat black...but they were red. Moreover, they forget the little rounded tool at the base...so it has to be done. The most similar I could find in my "bank of pieces" were the Perfect Parts electric connectors; after having cut away both ends: Then I glued the new piece on the lower part of the damper: After painting satin red and washed with Gunze Grey Smoke (like the rest of the damper), I put in place the whole rear suspension: The same has been done on the already mounted front dampers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 THE ENGINE These are the pieces of the engine, which Hiro made with little differencies as usual: I mounted most of the engine OOB, but there are some pieces I'd like to show you since, in my opinion, some were not necessary and other could be done in a different way. For example these pieces... would be done together with the cam-covers (as usual): while the other you can see in this pic will be covered by the cam-cover and nobody could see anymore...so I didn't use them. These are the cylinders and the injectors: I re-made the tube of the injectors with a 0.8 Hobby Design stainless steel tube: Then I enlarged the inside of them: Finally I cut the head (in the middle of the pic); on the left the discarted tube: This is the final result: The new tubes were painted Matt Aluminium, the nuts Semigloss Black, while the rest of the injector Gunmetal. Here is the piece where cylinders will be glued: The right end was done with 3 p/e parts + a spring which I re-made. This is the final result after painting with Gunmetal: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 Before going on with the engine, I finally changed the pedals. First I sanded what is not necessary: Then I re-made the pedals: After having glued the cylinders in place, I made the wirings for the injectors. Here a pic of the time (Bruce at the 1968 Nederland GP): As you can see the yellow wires were covered by black wires, so I did the same after having sanded the yellow wires: Then I added the wires for the spark-plugs: Now the engine is ready to be fitted to the main body. Before I enlarged the holes of the plaques: Then I glued the engine to the body but...surprise: The plaques of both sides were too short and did not arrive to the holes on the chassis where they could be fitted with a rivet. So I re-made the plaques of the right lenght: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 looks great. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntPhillips Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Stunning attention to detail, can't wait to see more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Many thanks to AntPhillips & Nuck for their comments. PIPING Not too difficult, but a hard work to understand where the wires go to or come from. Here the Hiro's instructions which aren't wrong but too much over-simplified: I'd like to underline I'm building the B Version - 1968 Spa - Bruce McLaren. So might be that some piping/wiring could be different from the other versions. Here the Bruce's car at 1968 Spa: In this post I treat all the tubes you can see in this pic a part of the "X" tube which will be fitted when will arrive from Hiro the water tank which wasn't into the kit box. The oil circuit was as follows: warm oil from Engine (OUT) to Radiator Left (RL) then from Radiator Right (RR) to the Oil Tank (OT) finally, from OT to the Engine again (IN) (NOT IN THE KIT) The Oil Tank (OT) was connected to the Oil Reservoir Tank (ORT): The connector of tubes 1 and 2 has to be built, since it is "double": so I glued a little one to the biggest connector. Tube "2" went to the front of the engine. Tube "1" went free on the right side of the gearbox (NOT IN THE KIT) Finally, this is an "internal oil circuit" which Hewland introduced at the end of 60s (NOT IN THE KIT): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Here the Hiro's instructions for the water tank (M34) and its connections (first pic) + all the devices which later will became the Lucas unit between the two trumpets lines (second pic), which were placed on a plaque on the roll-over bar until the Belgian GP: Here the pic of the original car at the 1968 Belgian GP where I put some number to make an easy understanding: Over the water tank (M34-instructions) there is a little hole and I wondered why; but looking at the real car I saw that there was a blue connector (1): so it has to be made. Comparing the Lucas devices of the real car with those of the kit, you can see that the last are a little semplified. First step: the piece M128+M91 has to be connected to the distribitor with a black wire. Moreover, there are two little wires which connect the M91 to itself (2). Finally, there is a band with two bolts to keep it in place (3): The pieces M129 and M130 are a little different from the real car (4): so I cut a little piece of the rear of M129 and I made two 0.30 holes; moreover a sanded away the top of M130 where I added another little piece from which started 4 very little black wires + a black wire which keeps in place the M130. Finally, number 5 of the real car doesn't exist in the kit: so I made it from a little piece of white metal + a band to keep it in place. Here the final resutl with the same numbers which I put in the pic of the real car: Some pics of the final result with no number: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Finally, arrived the missing pieces, so I could try to finish this kit. Here the water tank M47 just arrived and after its mounting: It had two connections (red arrows): The clear yellow tube went to the rear "free": The other clear tube arrived from the number 1 which I mentioned in the previous post: In this pic of the real car al 1968 Spa, take a look at the rear axles: This are the axles of the kit: It means that those in my kit (Ver. were wrong: so I asked to Mrs.Hiro if she could send me those of the Ver.C. She was so nice and the different axles arrived yesterday (on the right of the pic): After sanding and polishing them, I made a wash with oil colour: Finally, after a coat with Gunze Grey Smoke, they were mounted: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 You've reached that nice stage of the build where you have to look twice to check which pictures are the model and which are the full sized. You're making an excellent job of this. You'll have me reaching for my Hiro 250 GTO kit and actually starting it at this rate. Keep up the great work Nick (or Nuck) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Many thanks Nick ...or Nuck Mounting of the rear anti-roll bar: The red arrows show the attachments that were painted matt aluminium (instructions say black). To complete the rear suspension, the rear arms (up and down) were added: To finish the mounting of the rear of the car, the cooling tubes: The connection of the gear: The washing of the exhausts with TAM weathering master D. Here the left only to show the difference: Here all the exhausts were washed: Finally they were covered with a light coat of Gunze Grey Smoke...but this will be seen in another post. The mesh for the trumpets of the kit are made by brass while those of the real car were metalic, therefore one could paint them or re-make with metalic mesh (Tameo) like me: Here the final result: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Wow! This is a phenominal build! Your attention to detail is amazing. Very very well done! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamond9 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 That is absolutely stunning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 Many thanks for your compliments. The brakes. This is the real car at the front and at the rear, respectively: As you can see, both front and rear, the calipers had a connection for the balance of fluid and a connection to the bottles of fluid. Hiro made a lot of p/e parts that could be created with the caliper itself: But forgot those connections. These are those for the balance of fluid: and these are those for the connection to the fluid bottles: Here the connections mounted on the rear: The second pic shows also the black painting to simulate the holes of the discs, since they are an unique piece. This is the final result at the rear: These are the connections at the front: This is the final result at the front: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 TYRES/WHEELS This is Bruce at the 1968 Belgian GP: Hiro captured very well the shape of tyres & wheels. Decals are of the kind to put on the surface and the put a drop of water over them: Then a couple of Alclad matt clear coats: Remember to put decals on both sides of the tyres: Spokes were painted with a mix of Gun Metal + Matt Black, nuts Matt Aluminium, while the chrome part of the wheels were washed with Gunze Grey Smoke very much diluited: The air valves of the kit were white metal pieces, difficult to sand. So I put each valve in the middle of the drill handle (I do the same with all the smallest pieces): Then the tyres were sanded and made dirty (in the same way as I did with the BRM). On the right the un-treated tyre to show the difference: Here the four tyres/wheels mounted on the car: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Just gets better and better. I'm impressed how quickly you're building this as well, very impressive. Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Many thanks to Nick for his nice words. Now it's time to finish the cockpit. This is the Bruce's "office": This is the pieces of the kit for driver seat: Therefore the two parts covering the sides of the cockpit are missing. I started making a mask of the two sides, which were different since on the right there was the gear lever: Over the mask I glued half-rounded plasticard: Then I covered with a black tape: ...but I wasn't satisfied; moreover the piece was very hard to bend. Then I tried with Sinta-gom: ...but oncemore I wasn't fulfilled: both for the holes and for the thickness. Finally the resource was a "natural" product! First I glued together some rounded plasticard pieces, which were then bended to the shape of the cockpit side: Then I took the foil which covers the Yogurt: The foil was cut following the mask of before and then bended on the plasticard: Finally I glued a 0.4 mm lead wire to the borders: Doing the same with the headrest: Meanwhile I cut the "ears" of the seat: and, instead of the "ears" I put some putty which was then sanded: Then I painted with Humbrol 85 Satin Black, for me the best colour to simulate the leather, washing with Gunze H77 Tire Black: Finally I put some 0.7 Hiro Flat Rivets like the real car: Now all the pieces are ready to be placed into the cockpit: May be it is not just the same of the real car but I seem it is better than the Hiro one. The problem will be when I'll have to put the cockpit surround! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 THE NOSECONE This is the Hulme's nosecone with little flaps tested during '68 Belgian GP practice: Bruce did not use fins but 4 little "device" (2 for each side) both in practice and in race: Moreover, on the right side only, there was a "NACA" duct. Therefore, on the nose of the kit, the space for the fins have to be closed: Instead of putty I inserted a very thin plasticard sheet, then sanded: Note the NACA on the right side, well done by Hiro. Then the nose was painted with ZP, sanded, decalled and clear coated: Moreover, dzuzfastener were added and the interior of nosecone painted with semigloss black. Finally, the mesh (painted and washed) was added: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 ENGINE COVER No problem for this piece (here with 3 rivets for each side added): Pay attention to the difference between practice: and race, where the rear "aerofoil" was sorther and smaller: After painting with ZP, sanding and clear coating: Dzuzfastener were added + p/e parts for the rear aerofoil; the rivets are 0.8 by Hiro. COCKPIT SURROUNDER Like the real car, the windscreen was keep in place by rivets. So I made hole in the same position, making a fitting test: Then the cockpit surrounder was painted with ZP, sanded, decalled and clear coated; moreover dzuzfastener were added: Instructions say to paint windscreen with a mix of 50+50 clear blue+clear green: for me it is too dark. I made some test with different % and finally I resolved to clear green 5 + clear blue 2: I seem that pics show a darker windscreen colour but "live" it matches well the real one. Finally the rear mirrors were put in place. Very well done by Hiro: each mirror has a withe metal piece + p/e for mirror + p/e for the plaque inside the windscreen: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi956 Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 First version of finished project: But I was not satisfied to leave the car "opened": so I sanded the inside of the cockpit surrounder and, even not fitting very well (due to the sides of the seat), here the final version of the finished M7A: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pg265 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Hi, What a beautiful car and what a great build once again Edi!!! Well done my friend! Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thankyousam Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I'd not seen this stunning build before; amazing attention to detail and a real inspiration to take the time to try and replicate similar detail in my own builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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