Mike Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Easy 3 paint SetsLifcolor Acrylics Lifecolor's release schedule seems rather busy of late, and the latest sets our of the gate are these four handy "Easy 3" sets that contain three bottle of paint suitable for their intended subjects. They are acrylic based, dilute and clean up with water, although their thinners is a much better solution which also helps them spray better. For more information on their use, visit one of the "Buy it Now" links where you'll find some tips on correct mixing and clean-up.Debris 1 & 2Two sets of paints that help you with your diorama painting. It's not always easy to think what colours various parts of your diorama would be, and this set helps in that respect with descriptive colour names. Set 1Worn Brick (UA737), Deposited Dust (UA738), Broken Plaster (UA739)Set 2 Old Tile (UA740), Stone Wall (UA741), Lime Mortar (UA742) Leaking & StainsThis 2 paint set covers the deposits often found on or around machinery and engines. Exhaust Oil Effect (UA261), Dirty Grease Effect (UA262), Grease Effect (UA263) RAF Battle of BritainA threesome of British early war camo colours in one handy box. The Dark Earth looks like a green when you pull it from the box, but a good shaking brings up the brown pigment, so don't be alarmed! Dark Earth (UA537), Dark Green (UA538), Sky (UA539) IDF ArmyThree shades of green for Israeli Defence Force uniforms. UA 437 Dark IDF Green, UA438 Medium IDF Green, UA439 Light IDF Green War on the RoadThree base shades for different types of roads. UA473 Dirt Road, UA744 Middle Eastern Asphalt, UA745 European Asphalt Leaking & Stains - Grime EffectsThree shades of goo. UA746 Lime Green, UA747 Dirty Green, UA748 Dirty Green Leaking & Stains - Damp EffectsThree satin-gloss colours for dampness and mould. UA749 Vegetable Origin Damp Green, UA750 Vegetable Origin Damp Yellow, UA751 Dark Mould ConclusionGreat sets that will broaden your paint palette nicely. I wish there were more instructions on how to use the paints however, as the Leaking & Stains set especially leaves me scratching my head a little. Clearly you're meant to dilute them to apply by brush (as splashes), or spray them to get the desired effect, but a little assistance wouldn't go amiss, even if it were just a link to a website that has some "how to" articles.The RAF set should give RAF modellers a nice handy pack for their BoB era kits as well as sparking a lively debate over the correct shade of the elusive and oft disputed RAF Sky, and the Debris & Rubble has some masterfully blended colours. I've seen broken plaster, and lime mortar on my travels, and they have captured the colours just right, with a subtle hint of pink to them.Recommended. Review sample courtesy of: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Just ordered myself some of these. I have NO experience whatsoever of Lifecolor paints, but thought it doesn't hurt to try. Can I just ask what's best to thin them for airbrushing? I know they do their own thinners, but will they mix with Vallejo thinner, TamX20A, Water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham121 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 I have found the best way to thin Lifecolor paint is to use their own thinner. I great tip I got was to top up a new jar of Lifecolor with their own thinner and that is all you need to do; that mix can be used for airbrushing or with the hairy stick straight from the jar. I have had some success with Windex, but not as good as the Lifecolor thinner. Most complaints you hear about Lifecolor paints being hard to spray - and you may hear a few - is in reality down to not using their thinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Thanks Graham. I figured as much. I always use Vallejo or Tamiyas own thinner with their respective paint. Never really had any joy thinning those with water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 I rather like Lifecolour - have always needed thinning for airbrushing IMHO and I've simply used tap water and a little flow enhancer with no probs at all - over a primer of course! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWP Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Do NOT mix LC with Tamiya or Gunze -- you get a chemical reaction, and a useless thick goop is created (which I'm guessing would not do an airbrush any good at all ...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theclay Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 even if changing colours and there is a little gunze in the cup, it will turn it to jelly. it happened to me when i did a 1/32 bf109 trop. gunze blue and LC sand. just that little bit of residue does a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Do NOT mix LC with Tamiya or Gunze Right... Gotcha. I use Vallejo and Tamiya almost exclusively nowadays so will remember to clean properly between colours/brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Headroom Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Lifecolor are my favourite acrylics. Easy to brush and no streaks. Best of all the dark earth doesn't darken when varnished unlike good old Humbrol. Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Updated to include IDF, Roads, Grime & Damp sets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Just noticed these, might have to have a dabble Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Good colours - just don't over-dilute them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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