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Another pair of Ferraris - Daytona and 599 GTO


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599-365-1-L.jpg

Slow beginnings, but I wanted to get the body shells painted so that they can cure properly before final polishing while other work gets under way. The Daytona is Zero's "Blu Dino"; the 599GTO is "Rosso Scuderia", and a matt (ish) black (ish) homebrew for the roof.

These will go slowly while I work on some stuff for SMW 2012, but at least I've started!

bestest,

M.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey M,

I gotta tell you that THAT is quite an IMPRESSIVE start tote MOST BEAUTIFULLY designed, aesthetically GORGEOUS, STYLISH cars ever created by Enzo Ferrari.

Looking splendid to ME...can wait till th two DAMES. Ate dressed to kill.

WILL be back for more.

Thank you..

HOUSTON

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  • 1 month later...

Well, it's been a while... Scale Model World is behind me, and my B-26 Marauder Box Art diorama has seen the light of day, so progress is now being made on these at last...

engines-XL.jpg

Engines under way. The Italeri 365 GTB V12 is beautifully crisp, with a nice detail, and noticeably bigger than the 599 GTOs. The Revell parts are well-designed and simple, responding well to detail painting, but have slightly more flash and not so precise fit.

buttresses1-XL.jpg

buttresses2-XL.jpg

The "flying buttresses" are very well engineered, and to fit properly you need to have no primer on the "tab" element or in the slot on the car body. These are cleaned, sanded and pressed into place, where they fit really well....now!

Lots of priming and prep going on off-camera...

bestest,

M.

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Slow progress today...

engines2-XL.jpg

Engines slowly coming together. The next job is to wire the Daytona ignition.

chassis-XL.jpg

599 chassis, painted with Vallejo German Grey. I assembled the chassis, wheel wells etc with Copydex (rubber solution glue) before priming and painting. Then, after the paint has dried, they can be pulled apart and the glue peeled off, leaving mating surfaces clean and ready to be glued as the suspension is assembled.

meshed-XL.jpg

Various parts masked with mesh before spraying a "carbon" effect in graphite grey over black. And the results...

diffuser-XL.jpg

seatback-XL.jpg

carbon-dash-XL.jpg

Work on the Daytona suspension continues as well...

bestest,

M.

Edited by cmatthewbacon
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The mesh is coated lightly with 3M Spray Mount, a tacky adhesive intended for mounting photos so you can move them around. We used to use it all the time for page layouts, pre-computer! It sticks strongly enough to make the mesh fabric (which is pretty flexible) conform to contours. You do need to remove any glue residue after the paint's dry, by putting a piece of masking tape over the painted surface and peeling it off again.

Thanks for the positive feedback, guys!

bestest,

M.

Edited by cmatthewbacon
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Thanks, Giorgio! Today I have mostly been building a chassis for the Daytona...

chassis-overview-XL.jpg

top-view-XL.jpg

The engine is just dropped into place for the moment. The swinging arms are painted with Tamiya Titanium Gold. There are three parts for each corner -- axle and shock, upper arm and lower arm.

front-end-XL.jpg

The steering isn't positionable, at least out of the box. This is a pretty good attempt at a realistic suspension set-up, unlike the 599GTO, which prioritises what you can see and being able to steer the front wheels. It's a lot simpler and easy to build than the even more prototypical Fujimi Enthusiast set-ups, though. I'd say, all in all, it's a good compromise between accuracy, complexity and buildability.

It looks good from underneath, as well...

underside-overview-XL.jpg

underside-front-end-XL.jpg

As a matter of interest, this now completes Stage 1 of the Italeri instructions! In other news, I've at least had a response from Italeri spares about the bubble I found in the windscreen moulding -- they've asked for some photos for the technical department to investigate:

windscreen-flaw-5-XL.jpg

A long way to go before I have a replacement in my hands, but at least we have opened a channel of communication!

bestest,

M.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick one to save anyone else any trouble. Revell have mixed up the brake disk parts in the 599 instructions. The bigger callipers with the disk only half-shrouded go at the front, on the narrower wheels. The smaller callipers with the "two-thirds" shroud are for the wider rear wheels. Just goes to show... I was so worried about making sure I had the disks facing the right way that I focused entirely on the instructions, and didn't look at my reference photos, which clearly show the right disks for the right wheels... or indeed think twice. I _know_ the beefier brakes go on the front, when there's an option, but I was derailed.

bestest,

M.

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Great progress M,

just one question, what mesh are you using to create the carbon look?

I have done this before through an old nylon tea strainer but didn't think about using spray mount to make the job easier.

The effect you have there really does look good, I usually build older stuff (pre-carbon fibre) but I do have some modern cars in my stash and it always good to have methods to hand, saves a lot of thinking time!

I also think the Dino blue looks superb on the Daytona.

Steve.

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Thanks, Steve! It's a fabric from the local Boyes department store, which is used for dressmaking. It's called Tulle, and is normally used for veils and 50s petticoats. I've got enough for £1 to last a decade of carbon fibre...

It's a big update today (for the 599 at least!) Lots of work that has been going on bit by bit in the background, with no real landmarks to post about, has now started to pay dividends.

First of all... some wheels:

wheels-XL.jpg

I don't think that you can tell that they've been prised apart and stuck back together! Paint is Zero's Graphite Grey, and they are shod in Pegasus Michelin Pilots, which should help the look a bit. The disks are sprayed with Humbrol Flat Aluminium, which has a whitey-grey look that's just right for carbon disks, washed with Citadel Devlan Mud to pop the detail, and then the shields and centres are painted with Citadel black and grey. Callipers in Humbrol spray Yellow. Test fit carefully, because on at least one pair of wheels, the raised circular moulding on the back of the spoked disk hub interfered enough with the brake disk hub raised detail that I could't close the front and back of the wheels. I had to pare it off with a sharp knife...

bare-chassis-XL.jpg

chassis-top-down-XL.jpg

The bare chassis assembled. The hubs, suspension, shocks and wheel arches fit nicely if you VERY carefully follow the instructions and numbered sequence. For the back pair, get a hold of the drive shaft with a pair of tweezers and lift it as you slide the wheel arch assembly into place to pop it into the back of the hub bearing, otherwise it'll keep pushing the whole thing out of it's location.

The engine:

engine1-XL.jpg

engine2-XL.jpg

All done out of the box, with detail painting of the parts that Revell provide. You need to cut the tops of the location stubs for the front shocks, which come up through the wheel arches, to get a snug fit for the airbox on top of the engine. The location for the radiator is unclear -- it actually sits leaning back with only the angled side brackets on the baseplate, and the front edge sits ON TOP of the raised tab in the middle. It does NOT go with the flat lower edge glued to the baseplate, as the location tabs might suggest!

chassis-profile-L.jpg

A better view of the wheels in place, showing where the callipers SHOULD be...

More to follow...

bestest,

M.

Edited by cmatthewbacon
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...and now on to the interior.

cockpit1-XL.jpg

Doors off, you can see the various slightly different blacks, greys and carbon colours (as well as Vallejo Sunny Skintone for the tan). I think the main thing is to try to get a range to represent the different kinds of materials. The steering wheel, for example, has Citadel Chaos Black, Vallejo German Grey, Citadel Charandon Granite (which is standing in for the suede-y Alcantara everywhere it appears in the cabin), and finally Tamiya Gunmetal for an ersatz "carbon" look on some details to small to "mesh" easily)

textures-closeup-XL.jpg

The colour's a bit off in this image, but you can see the mesh effect on the carbon dash, the centre console, and even on the seats, where I sprayed black over a German Grey base to give the effect of the "technical fabric" the real thing is made of...

cockpit2-XL.jpg

Another view where you can clearly see the different colours and textures around the cabin. The rest is all tiny brushes and Citadel colours...

chassis-mockup-XL.jpg

topview-XL.jpg

The chassis mocked up. It looks like it'll fill the body quite nicely...

bestest,

M.

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It may be my imagination, or just a front-engined GT car thing, but I think I can see a resemblance between the underpinnings of some of Maranello's finest..

bestest,

M

There's definitely a "family feeling" even if the 2 cars are separated by several decades: 12 cylinders, engine just behind the front axle, transaxle (first seen on the 275), all things that have characterised Ferraris of that kind. And apart from the choice of cylinders, it's really quite a logical scheme for any front engined sportcar..

One small particular that has changed is that the 599 has 2 round rearlights as Ferrari used up to the 275 included. The 365 and all other following Ferraris had a 4 round lights arrangements, that was a trademark of Ferrari for many years (and that I personally like more than the 2 lights arrangement).

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Another quickie, while I wait for decent daylight to take some more progress pictures. It IS possible to get the bonnet/hood on the 599 to close properly. The first thing to do, before painting, is to check the fit, and if it's like mine, heat briefly in the steam from a kettle and flex the left hand front corner downward a little. YMMV, obviously, so keep test fitting until it closes into the recess properly. Then, when the time comes to fit the thing permanently, I've found that first thinning the pins by removing the upper 1/3 or so and then rounding them again with some scraping, and secondly fully rounding the upper ends of the pivot arms, gives enough room for maneouvre when the bonnet is down for it to drop properly in place while still holding it in position...

HTH somebody else!

bestest,

M.

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Some progress to report tonight:

headliner-XL.jpg

The headliner positioned, and painted in matching colours for the interior (it was great to see an internal cabin photo that showed it clearly in Evo.) If you look closely you can also see the trimmed ends of the bonnet supports.

frontend-XL.jpg

I'm using the mesh for the grilles, stuck in place with "Serious Glue", which holds them in position from the off, and then if you press them finally into position after a couple of minutes, "persuades" the springy mesh to conform to the curves.... The headlights are painted to replicate the ones on the 599 GTE I spotted in London last week. The lenses are grey shades with a "catch light" as figure painters use for eyeballs... those Xenon's are weird-looking, as I know from my own car.

wing-mirror-XL.jpg

I've gone for carbon mirrors, and this is probably the best bit of fake carbon detailing on the whole car, though I say so myself...

bonnet-open-1-XL.jpg

The bonnet doesn't stay UP by itself yet, but you can see that the engine sits in place nicely.

on-bench-1-XL.jpg

on-bench-2-XL.jpg

..and finally a couple on the bench where we are tonight. People may complain that the detailing on this kit is a bit soft or coarse, but the fit and engineering is superb. I think Revell have got their priorities right!

bestest,

M.

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