Abacus Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Noticed someone trying to sell a US bottle and was wondering if the the UK brand is exactly the same? Am down to my last 40mls in a Colmans mustard jar of the old. TIA,Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I put up the add. After a lot of research I pestered a relative to send me some of the original stuff over. The "New" UK clear has a wax formula. This yellows in time. The long and the short of it is that you need an alternative. If you are looking for stuff on canopies I watched a video on aolcad 2 - ALC 600 Lacquers Aqua Gloss. I bought 2 bottles. They were £6.99 each. There is 120ml in the bottle and it says made in the UK. Here is the you tube link of the product review. I did not see the rules that I needed a 100 posts to sell stuff on the forum and for that I appologise. I thought that I would fill you in as to why I hot the stuff sent over. P.S I hope that I have not broken any more rules by giving you a review link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Do you have evidence of this "yellows with time" or is this another of the "myths" that have cropped up about the new formula? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDH Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 This may help people make their minds up Well worth watching if only for the humour!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I feel I may be a bit of a Numpty after watching the video. Yes I did panic. I got tired of ready posts and books about the product. I don't have any proof of the yellowing. However, I did read that is seems to occur after some time and the reason given was the wax base. I am not a chemist so I cannot argue the point. the above video was very well made. The only criticism that I can make is that there was no "long term" test - i.e. does it maintain its clear colour. Yes you can go out and but model spray varnish for around £6 a tin for 150ml. I have 3 bottles of the old stuff arriving and it would have been cheap had it not been for the US postage. I wish my relative had told me in advance. I feel obliged to pay for the stuff now that it's on its way. I am the first one to jump for joy if the New Klear works because that means we (modellers) still have a cheap model varnish. Looking forward to anyone who has used the new Klear for a while and can comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abacus Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Excellent, many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I've used the new "Pledge" Klear for a while. It works fine as a decal sealant and varnish. I can't really comment too much re: dipping canopies, I have used it for this, but tbh I never used the old original "clear" Klear, so I have no benchmark. But the canopies I have tried it on are nice and clear and show no signs of any yellowing... Yet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I've used the new "Pledge" Klear for a while. It works fine as a decal sealant and varnish. I can't really comment too much re: dipping canopies, I have used it for this, but tbh I never used the old original "clear" Klear, so I have no benchmark. But the canopies I have tried it on are nice and clear and show no signs of any yellowing... Yet. Thanks for the feedback. Oh well an expensive 3 bottles of the original, then for me. I could then not in good conscience ask someone for £20 a bottle (that's what they cost me with shipping) so I will just keep the 3 unless someone really wants a bottle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treker_ed Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I've used the new "Pledge" Klear for a while. It works fine as a decal sealant and varnish. I can't really comment too much re: dipping canopies, I have used it for this, but tbh I never used the old original "clear" Klear, so I have no benchmark. But the canopies I have tried it on are nice and clear and show no signs of any yellowing... Yet. I too also use the new formula - and only since feb of this year just after i got my airbrush & compressor. So far I've not had any problems with it yellowing - all my canopies and glazing on kits have come out fantastic (once i properly got the hang of the stuff, but that's another story!) So far - everything from a 1/48 TSR2 to a 1/72 Revell Space Shuttle has been coated in Future (I brush it on as i dont fancy destroying my airbrush if i dont clean it thoroughly enough). And have even managed to coat the Revell 1/72 A400M! and no problems with it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Good point on the airbrush. On the Alcad bottle (which is also a varnish) there is a warning on the label to immediately clean your airbrush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonhoff Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Been using the "New" Klear (Pledge Multi Surface Wax) for the last 18 months - No issues noticed yet apart from usually needing several coats to get it level which is probably down to me rather than the product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 While we are on the topic of coats and application. Does anyone wish there method? I have not yet used the stuff so would be very interested to learn from others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonhoff Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I have two methods - Apply with cotton buds and spray it. It sprays straight from the bottle. I've got one of those cheap Draper single action airbrushes which I use for applying Klear Mark II rather than risk my double action one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I tend to brush it on as you can get a thicker layer with more control and less blobbing than with the airbrush and since this is self levelling a thicker layer is a good thing IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abacus Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 I think there is very little in Pledge/Future?\Klear to cause any actual harm to your airbrush so there is little "risk" involved. However, like anything, it is going to be harder to clean when dried. Otherwise use your normal acrylic cleaner. I have no experience with cellulose and klear but while it works wonders with Gunze and Tamiya, causes a gummy mess with xtracrylix.So caution required! It's 1st choice for canopy dipping but never seem to get it right when brushing. I use a soft. flat wide brush used slowly and always seem to get a fish eye, pool or run somewhere. Fine misting seems to do the trick. Is it just me or does the model have a more "solid" feel after the Klear has been applied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parns Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 By the time I was put on to it, the original Klear had been discontinued. I have been using the Multi-Surface Wax on my last couple of builds, but things have not been going smoothly. I've been spraying it on with my Badger 200 and find that it beads quite badly. If I don't wipe these beads off in a hurry, they solidify with noticeable yellowing, and are the very devil to get off, even with quite highly concentrated ammonia solution. I'm using a medium needle - is it that the needle is inadequate? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 (edited) I've used both and they seem to behave the same as each other, haven't seen any yellowing yet... I use a nice, wide brush and put down a couple of thin layers before decals etc. I did try it through the Iwata but it was a sod to get rid of using various chemicals (inc amonia, wow, trippy man). If you use a hairy brush and try and clean it, no matter how many times with all sorts of chemicals, the brush always dries hard. It will recover if you use it for Klear again though. I just keep a couple of brushes for the job now. "I've got one of those cheap Draper single action airbrushes which I use for applying Klear Mark II rather than risk my double action one." Good idea Bonhoff, I have an old "spray" type gun that I could try. Cheers, Rick. Edited September 29, 2012 by Rick Brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 I used the Alclad acrylic one and that does the same thing, as others have said light coats built up tends to work better. Must say never had any more trouble cleaning the Iwata or H&S airbrush after spraying it. no more than any other type of acrylic paint IPA tends to clear any dried on the outside of the brush, and I spray it through the airbrush after use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I have the top of Spitfire done. The bottom still needs a final coat. I was wondering if I should not seal the top before working on the bottom. I have used Tamiya Acrylics. I don't fancy having to re-mask and redo the top camo. I am also of a mind to use a brush. I have just got the hang of the airbrush as far as paint goes and I am hesitant to stray into trying to spray Pledge. In my search for a sealant, besides getting some pled sent over I bought some Aclad 2 600 and a tin of Humbrol Acrylic Matt Varnish in a spray can. Ok so maybe I have overdone the choices, but only because of not being sure, I am putting a lot of effort into this model. It's my first one back after a few decades away from the hobby. I would like to enter it into a competition - hence the OCD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) Sean One of the many things I like about Klear is the self levelling bit. If you use a brush you can't see any brush strokes! I if you do, just go over it again when dry (only a few minutes). Brushing it on is really quick with no airbrush to clean afterwards. I use a wide flat, fairly soft, brush and just load it with a small amount of Klear as it goes a long way, you can add another coat if it isn't very shiny. The more coats you use, the shinier the finish. I think everyone has their own method,but this is mine. I paint/camo the whole model before I use Klear, then Decal, Klear, weather then finish with a top coat of choice. My choice being Vallejo Satin for most of my WWII builds. Good luck! Rick. Edited September 30, 2012 by Rick Brown 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hacker Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 l live in Canada as you all know and l get the original formula. Works just as it always has and even states on the bottle " without yellowing" I have often offer to get a bottle for some of you chaps in a trade for a kit as it does cost the same as a 1/72 Airfix Swordfish for example. The offer is always open if you guys have a need for the stuff and l alway want to give back as you guys help me out alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corporate Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Interested in this as I still have a fair amount left in my bottle of original Klear. It's one of the easiest things I've put through an airbrush, no dilution or additives, spray it neat, goes on really well. And I've never had a second thought about putting it through an Iwata HP-CS: it doesn't gum up, I clean afterwards straight away just as i do after any paint (etc) that goes through, and experience no problems. Great product, pity it's been changed. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayprit Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 If your really desperate to get hold of a bottle of the earlier Klear and have in excess of £16 plus postage of £3..............try this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Johnsons-Klear-Future-unopened-/200822009332?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item2ec1ecadf4 That should polish off a few notes and aid for a clean wallet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean_M Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 It was not the price of the 3 bott;es that cost me dearly, but the shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Lol, the whole World has gone mad with "Must Have Klear or my life will collapse", it's quite funny really! What did we do before Klear? More to the point, what do we now its gone?! Rick, BTW, hogging two bottles hoping to pass them on as an heirloom when I'm gone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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