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building of the 1st module of my diorama 1 16 - The Wreck


Frank.W.

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Now, the two MGs were assembled.


These are also detailed extensive.


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Since I am fascinated by the commander figure, I have published photos of the unpainted figure at his workplace.

Furthermore, I had placed the assemblies without glueing.


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Best regards

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Meanwhile, all assemblies were completed and it was time to priming.

For this I took Mr Hobby Color Color iron-black and black-brown.

The turret interior, the ammunition rack, the gun, the MG's were treated.

Then the fighting compartment was airbrushed reddish brown.

The color was partial removed with a knife and a hard bristle brush to simulate scratches and scraped color.

The floor in front of their seats was shown particulary strained.

Then followed a treatment with Mig Europe Dust pigments.

Here are the pictures ..... a detailed painting followed later.


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Today the turret interior, the gun and the ammunition racks were painted.

At first I dabbed mustard on the surfaces, which are painted in Mr. color black iron or dark brown. With this method I mask the ground color.

The parts were airbrushed with white color.

Then I removed the mustard with my "special tool".


The tool I made from a bristle brush . The wooden handle was removed. The metal was squeezed with a pliers.

With this tool I removed the mustard under pressure or by scratching.

In this way I imitated scratches and paintless.

The tip with the mustard is not from me. I read this in the context of a weathered winter camouflage in a forum. This is used for chipping, since mustard can apply controlled than salt and hairspray. The effect is the same.

The details still need to be painted.

Here are the pictures:


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Now followed a washing of the parts. This was done with thinned burnt umber.

Since the parts have not been previously treated with gloss clear coat, color excess and unwanted color collections had to be immediately removed with a brush or cloth to prevent edges or excessive darkening.

After the washing of the fighting compartment followed a drybrushing to highlight small details.

This was done with oil paint english red mixed with a little white.

After this pigments were added again , since some pigment were removed.


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Now some little things were done.

The fighting compartment was glued to the bottom of the tower, the gun and the racks were fixed and the grenades were glued into the racks.

Furthermore, I painted the riflescope in black brown, then washing in black, then drybrush in silver.

The inside of the loader's hatch is still painted in dark yellow, since the inside folds outwards and therefore was not painted white.


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Then I sprayed the interior of the upper hull with white color.

The engine compartment was left in anti-rust color.

I created the paint chippings with a sponge in black brown color.


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Now, I fixed the upper hull to the bottom.

This was not easy.

There were many assemblies, which must be mounted perfect to ensure the correct fit of the upper hull.

The adhesives had to be set free from color.

Both adhesives, upper hull and bottom, were applied with glue.

The parts wwere pressed together and fixed with many tapes.

I'll probably leave at least 24 hours.


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Now, I painted the wheels.

The wheels had received a painting with Mr. Metal Color iron black at first.

After that a treating with mustard on each wheel to mask the wheels partial.

Then followed a painting in Hobby Color green-brown (more a brown yellow similar to the Africa Brown from Revell).

Finally, a layer Hobby Color dark yellow.

Then I scraped and brushed away the mustard.




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As the wheels were completed, I fixed the rear plate.

The fit wasn't good unfortunately and I had to fill this with putty.

Otherwise the hull was very solid after removing the tapes.

No creak and crack was to hear and the hull was very rigid.


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Then all of the openings of the hull were covered with tape or paper. Also the fighting compartment of the turret. The ventilation grids were covered from inside.

Then it was time to paint.

First, a preshading with Hobbycolor brown black was applied.

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When this had dried it followed a masking with mustard at the edges, covers and hatches and various metal surfaces.

In this way I masked the base color.

Then followed the painting in Hobbycolor yellow brown.


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Then I airbrushed with dark yellow and then dark yellow mixed with a little bit of white. The second stepp was applied cloudy and irregular.

The next step was the camouflage.



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Now I have created the camouflage with Hobbycolor chocolate brown and olive.

For this I took the airbrush with the small nozzle.

The chocolate brown is extremely dark, so I covered the whole tank easily with matte clear coat with a drop of beige.

Then I removed the mustard for a first job "chipping".

In addition, I dabbed various points with a sponge in brown black color to imitate paint damage.

Last but not least I have painted several places on the Zimmerits chipped in "rust paint".


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Some tools, handles, mine guards and the headlight were mounted.

Then there was a micro-painting. minor paint damages and scratches were painted.

This Method is called chipping. At first a little spot of the lightened primary color (example dark yellow lightened with white) and therein a smaller spot of brown black color. This gives a 3d effect. But use this only with smallest damages of the paint in this scale (1:16)

Then the grids were dented or damaged to imitate the rough use.

Recently I have overlaid the whole model with fine scratches that I scratched very careful with a knife.

Ensure always scratch the top coat only - never possible to plastic.

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Then I have built from balsa wood, wire and sheet metal √Ątzteilrahmens a wooden block, because the plastic part in the kit did not like.


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Then a large building phase had been completed.

The decals were fixed.

At first glossy clearcoat, then fixing of the decals. Treating of the decals with softener to adapt the decals to the rough ground.

After a short time the decals were spotted with a soft brush into the surface structure.

After drying, the decals were painted with gloss clear lacquer.

On the following day, a washing was done with thinned oil paint burnt umber.

For this, the wheels were removed and treated separately.

After Washing the hull behind the wheels had been heavily treated with pigments.

This was done as follows:

First, the area was smeared with Pigment fixer.

Then pigments were dabbed with a hard brush.

The process was repeated several times to get a heavy pollution.

Thereafter the wheels were locked.

The hubs and wheels got a washing with thinned oil paint burnt umber.

In the wet oil paint pigments were spotted.


Then came a drybrushing with white oil paint. This very very discretely!!!!!

The exhaust pipes were painted with oil paint English Red light and spotted with rust-colored pigments (or chalk in orange color)

The exhaust ports were treated with carbon black pigments.


Then the whole Kit was treated with pigments Europe Dust from Mig.


These are photos on the terrace. The lighting conditions were not optimal, because of the color of the awning.


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Thank you very much, Mike. :bye:

Meanwhile, the model is painted with mat clear coat and the tracks were treated.
For this purpose the tracks were airbrushed with brown dust by Hobby Color. Then treated with pigments Europe Dust from Mig.
This as follows:
- Spraying of small sections of the tracks with Pigmentfixer.
-Dusting of the wet places with pigments
-distribute of the pigments with a brush.
-After coating with clear coat, which was mixed with a drop of beige.
The raised areas of the track drybrushed with Mr. Metal Color iron and polished with a cloth
The contact surfaces of the wheels on the tracks and the wheels painted with Mr. Metal Color iron and polished.
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Now some equipment was fixed to the vehicle.

I think that affects optically very strongly.

The wooden handles of tools were painted in brown wood and dusted with pigments Mig Europe Dust. The metal parts in Mr. Metal Color painted, polished and dusted.

The brackets were additionally provided with scratches.

The tow ropes were painted in Mr. Metal Color black iron, iron, Hobby Color gray and Revell light gray.

The ropes were fixed with superglue on the vehicle.


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Today I have glued the other little things:

-Jack

-shackles

-Mounting of the gun barrel cleaning linkage and the tow ropes

-C-hooks

-Rear reflector or taillight

-Column lights

The jack was painted in dark yellow with a chipping in a brighter yellow and dark brown.

I also have "oiled" the jack, different wheels and the fuel filler cap on the rear cover with a mixture of gloss black and gloss clear paint


For this I took a fine brush and painted thin webs of running oil from the hubs of the wheels and the fuel filler cap.


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Bloody hell you don't faff about do you? This is spectacular modelling. If this is a day-by-day report then your pace is relentless. Gob-smacked is the word indeed.

:thumbsup2: :thumbsup2:

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Thank you for the nice feedback. I'm glad you like it.

In recent days, I continued to build and paint the figures.
The faces were painted with oil paints.
The camouflage with acrylics.
First in Hobby Color khaki gray, then larger camouflage stripes in Revell skin color , Hobby Color chocolate brown, Hobbycolor olive green.
Then on each stripe I dabbed little spots of the other color,
i.e.: on skin color olive and brown spots etc.
For test two figures had received a filter of thinned oil paint green.
Here the pictures:
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Now all camouflage uniforms had received a washing in oil colors green, the grey uniforms of dark grey oil paints.
Many details were painted ... hand grenades, belts and buckles etc.
By washing the figures shone quite strong, After dryingthe figures were airbrushed in clear coat mat.
Furthermore, I have painted the rear fenders of the tank, first anti-rust red, then dark yellow, then partial brightened dark yellow. Then a chipping with light yellow and brown black.
Washing in thinned oil paint burnt umber.
Finally, a treatment with pigments from Mig Europe Dust.
Then the fenders were fixed to the rear.
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Then some details were added and detail paintings werde done.

The SS soldier with helmet still got his eating utensils, a blanket, the MP 40

The painting was completed, for example: the lenses painted in black and silver and painted with glossy clearcoat.

The thirsty tank driver got his microphone, headphones and wiring. The copper cable was simply painted with matt varnish to take away the shine.

The bottle was painted in green and painted with gloss clear coat.

The "boss" got his MP and the missing arm.

The figures were given a dry brushing with white oil paint.

All figures received a treating with pigments Europe Dust.

The shoulder straps of the guns are still attached.

Here are the pictures:


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The figures were not completely finished yet, but I turned to the last section now:

the construction of the diorama part 2.

At first I started with the destroyed building.

Analogous to the first module I build the basic structure of grey cardboard and balsa wood.

In addition a sheet of grey cardboard (2.1 mm thick) was cutted a piece of 30x50 cm.

The windows and basement windows were drawn and cut out.

This was reinforced with a balsa square wood (15x15 mm). Balsa can be worked fantastic with a sharp knife.


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Since it is a corner of a house, the other Wall was built in the same way.

In the basement there is a breakthrough to enter the dig.


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  • 9 months later...

This is just EXCELLENT! I've learned more reading this thread than I have reading 3 books on making dioramas....

Thanks very mush for sharing your work with us. Please keep sharing...

This is very inspiring stuff.

Cheers.

Chris.

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Absolutely fantastic frank. I would not know were to start with something like this. It is all that good I can't really say which is outstanding because it ALL that good. and reading your comments as you go along I am also learning from you. Brilliant and I will keep this build in my favourites.

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Brilliant work with the T34 dio Frank.1/16 scale is unforgiving and you have to have the most intricate details correct because it can be so easily seen. I love your burnt out effects and will be trying out some of your techniques on my future builds. Totally stunning work and I look forward to the completed KT dio with great impatience. Please keep up the fantastic work, you are an inspiration with your eye for detail.

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