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building of the 1st module of my diorama 1 16 - The Wreck


Frank.W.

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Now I have put together 2 "kits" from the kit. These now waiting to be painted.

Firstly, the gear box with the case , on the other the motor.

Unfortunately you can't see anything from the gearbox after assembling.

Otherwise, there's nothing wrong with the parts ... but see for yourself.

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Then I had added some cables and tubes.

I'm quite unnerved, because these are made ​​of soft plastic and did not want to stick.

With UHU Hart and for safety superglue it seems to be ok.

In my opinion it looks good.

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Edited by Frank.W.
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Now I've built the wheels and the bulkhead.

Then I've continued the painting.

Different places inside the armoured hull were sprickled with water and these were sprickled with salt.

Then the engine and transmission were sprayed metal Color Dark Iron. This is an almost black iron color, you can polish it. This gives a super metallic effect.

Then the inside was sprayed with Metallcolor rustred flat.

This looks like anticorrosion paint.

Now I sprayed with the airbrush flat rust onto the exhaust manifold and the heat shields of the motor.

This was made with a fine airbrush nozzle with little color and close range.

Then the track covers on the inside of the hull were sprayed white. Of course, after I had covered the interior.

Similarly, the housing of the transmission.

The engine bulkhead was first painted black, then some places sprickled with salt, then rust and at last white.

Now the motor was painted chimney black. This was made very thin.

Recently I brushed with a hard brush the salt of the components and the engine at the edges.

This polished the metallic colour at the edges. It seems like drybrushing but the effect is a little glossy.

The exterior of the tank I've painted in rust red.

On the photos the parts were sticked together provisional.

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Meanwhile the Interior was treated again with a mixture of flat auburn and flat rust.

With the airbrush I sprayed irregular this mixture on the edges and corners to receive a brindled appearance.

Then followed a micro painting with dark iron (Hobbycolor).

In addition a light rubbing with pigments.

The torsion bars were painted in dark iron and after drying polished with a soft cloth.

On the photos below, I have inserted the torsion bars to show the effect.

In addition, the red mixture was applied cloudy outside the armourde hull.

A Zimmerit coating was added at the not treated places.

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Now I have built a few assemblies and these were placed loosely in the model.

I've covered the seats with candy wrappers as the seat cover was not enough structured.

Also, the springs of the driver seat were bent of thin wire and fixed with superglue.

Then the painting began.

First everything with black.

Then all "metal" parts unevenly with rust.

Then with a mixture of Red Brown and rust also unevenly.

The seat covers were painted in black, then washing in grey and drybrushing of the strained points with white.

The radio was painted in German grey from Valejo.

The framework and the dashboard

in white.

Details of the radio had to be painted.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Thank you very much.

It's time to continue.
The following modules were fixed:
-The gearbox
-The driver's seat
-Radio Operator seat
-The bulkhead of the engine compartment
As the bulkhead was fixed, hose connections were still glued.
It has been proved that the torsion bars are not glued. (Since I have not followed the instructions, but to the experience of other reports)
Then I built the radio and the dashboard.
This consists of only 4 parts and it is too simple of the detailing.
Since I build no cut model , I just "pimped" the parts a little.
The radios normally hang in a frame, which is fixed at the top not at the gearbox.
I added the rear vertical frame from the parts box.
In addition, a small control panel beside the dashboard.
Then I copied a photo of the instruments, scaled them on my PC, printed, cut out and glued onto the dashboard.
The instruments were painted with gloss clear paint, to imitate a glas cover. You can use plastic of a blister packaging, if you want.
Color treatment in white and german grey.
Then I fixed a few wires, how I saw it on a photo on the internet.
That should be enough, and looks more sophisticated than originally part of model.
Now again different paint damages have been created throughout the interior with a sponge and black paint (do this with an almost dry sponge). I just pulled a piece of sponge and worked with tweezers and only a little bit color.
Last still was a treatment of the interior space with pigments, especially of the bottom.
The engine and the air filter have also been treated with pigments.
The heat shields and exhaust pipes of the engine were treated with rust-colored pigments.
Last but not least I put together more assemblies and put them temporarily into the interior:
- Batteries
- fighting compartment floor panel, battery cover
-Water can
-Transmission fluid container
Only a small step forward, but very time consuming.
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Best regards
Frank
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Now I "airbrushed" the grenades in gold.

For this I used the color Mr. Metal Color color polished gold. I can not recommend this metal color highly enough ..... absolutely fine pigmented and a very realistic metallic luster.

Then I built up the petrol tanks.

Then came the story that caused me the most headaches - the "wedding" of chassis and the engine.

Forewarned by various construction reports the torsion bars are not glued.

After the torsion bars had been removed, I fixed the side walls of the engine compartment.

After that it was surprisingly easy to fix the engine. The flywheel hadn't to be shortened in order to be slid over the torsion bars.

The only problem - the connections do not fit to the respective openings of the side walls.

But I will correct it after the drying of the parts.

Here are the pictures:


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Greetings from Reutlingen


Frank (lappes)
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Today I painted the modules I have assembled the last days.

The modules are:

-Fans and coolers

-the petrol tanks

-the transmission fluid tank

-the batteries

-rear petrol tank

-the bottom plate on the batteries

-the hoses

First, the parts were airbrushed black.

Then painted in Hobby Color anti-rust color (except radiator and batteries)

After that partial airbrushed a mixture Hobby Color anti-rust and reddish brown in the ratio of 1 (rust) to 2 (reddish brown)

Then I applied with a sponge black and silver to imitate paint damage.

Especially the wings of the cooler fans and the and the edges of the petrol tanks.

At last fans and coolers were treated intensive with color pigments Europe dust from Mig .

I show the parts separately and then placed loosely, since the hoses have to be installed.


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Greetings from Reutlingen


Frank (Lappes)
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The rear tank was glued and hoses fixed with superglue.

Then I tested the fit of the 3-piece engine cover.

The engine cover is made of three panels. I glue these panels together. So I must not fix the cover and remove it any time.

Unfortunately you can't see anything...but better than nothing.


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The ventilation channels with flaps for the cooling air were glued together.

One coat of anti-rust paint was applied.

The parts were only put together without glueing.

This gives an impression of the beautiful detailing of the engine compartment.


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The cardan shaft, the turret drive, various hydraulic components and the inside of the rear wall have been assembled.

Then the various components were painted first in black, then in stainless and last in red-brown .

With a sponge scratches on the paintwork were imitated.

This was done by dabbing of black and silver color.

After that followed a treatment with pigments.

Also, these modules had not been permanently installed.


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Since the last publication I've done the following work:
- All currently finished components were fixed.
- The inside of the back wall was (2-part) glued into the hull.
-the torsion bars were fixed.
-The tracks (1 element with, 1 element without a guide tooth) were shortened.
- Hoses to the hydraulic pump on the tank bottom and the bulkhead to the engine room were fixed with superglue.
-The pigments have been reworked.

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The rear plate was assembled and provided with Zimmerit (Magic sculp structured with a stamp) The same at the front of the turret.

The covers of the exhaust pipes were provided with a metal casting structure.

I created the structure with plastic glue, which I distributed on the surface, dabbed it with an old, hard brush to achieve the desired effect. The kit parts were too smooth.


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The shells were separated from the sprues.

At least 72 pieces ..... monotonous work soon.

The water can inside was painted first in black, then dark yellow.

Paint damage was made with Mr. Metal Color iron black, painted with a fine brush and then polished with another, broader brush.


The fastening strap was made from a thin metal piece and glued. Overlapping side was provided with a buckle (rest of an edge part).

The strap was painted in brown the buckle in metal color.

Finally, a mild treatment with Mig pigments Europe Dust.


Here the pictures:


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The shells were airbrushed with metal color gold once more and then polished.



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Because of this photo.......



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........I'd painted the shells in this way



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the completion of the shells took an afternoon.

The bottoms of the shells was fitted with etched parts labeled with Sprgr AZ or Pzgr.

Since it is different grenades, I've painted the cartridges also different.

I do not know if this was so ..... evaluates it as artistic freedom.

The explosive grenade got an iron-black color and a white tip.

In recent days I have been busy with the ammo rack.

These consist of a total of about 90 parts.

I'd painted the parts black after the building of the racks (Metalcolor black).

Then the parts were polished.....this gave a beautiful metallic luster.

After drying, on each rack, a little water is applied and the part pressed into salt. Too much salt was removed carefully with a brush.

After drying, the racks were painted white.

Again to allow to dry.

The salt has been removed with a hard brush.

In this way I imitated damages of the color-

Then the racks were fixed.

After drying, some grenades were trapped in the racks, just to show the finished look.

Here are the pictures:


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Thank you, JK.

Then I began to build the turret.
The turret is made of two parts. For this reason the thickness of the armor is very realistic.
Both parts were assembled.
The fan, a few small parts and an periscope (Winkelspiegel in german, I don't no the meaning in english)
The interior of the cupola with seven periscopes and mechanism (attachment or flaps for closing ... no idea) was assembled and glued to the turret.
Then, the base of the turret was fixed with tape to the bottom of the turret, and so began the misery.
The sprocket (?) of the hull didn't match with the pendant at the turret.
With the alternative transparent hull of the kit exactly the same problem.
So I cut off the teeth of the sprocket and sanded the parts.
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I was very angry about this and so I turned away from the tank and devoted myself to the figures at first.

Sorry....I was confusing the report.

I started with the making of the figures

At first I edit the resin figures in the fine weather in the garden with the Dremel.

A damn dusty affair.

Here the the 5 kits

From Verlinden:

Armoured Crewman with grenade kit S09

WW II German tank commander kit 966

SS Obersturmführer Russia 1944 Kit 1239

SS Infanteryman WW II Kit 0451

Legend:

"Halt" kit 1607


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After removing of the casting residues the figures were assembled (except the weapons and other items that hinder the painting.

The parts were glued with cyanoacrylate ahesive.


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Edited by Frank.W.
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A little confused, but I love the diversified.

In addition to the figures I have continued the building of the Köti (short form of Königstiger =kingtiger).

The commander's cupola was assembled and created a slight cast structure by carefully dabbing plastic glue with a hard brush.

In the same way I treated the fan openings of the engine covers.

The cover of the front machine gun (ball mount? In german Kugelblende) was fixed

Then I built the tailgate of the turret.

The parts of the tailgate are movable.

The gun mantlet was built to make the Zimmerit coating for the last parts.

With Magic Sculp and a Zimmerit stamp the parts (tailgate, ball mount and gun shield) were covered and structured.

After drying, the clay coated were airbrushed with "anti-rust paint".


Later I noticed a mistake:

The Zimmerit only covered in the reality the base of the gun shield and not whole part.

Here is the pictures:


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Then I continued the detailling of the interior.The commander's hatch locking mechanism, the loader's hatch with lock and gas cylinder (?) and various parts inside and out.

Here are the pictures:


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Meanwhile, the fighting compartment was almost completed and fixed provisionally to the base of the turret with tapes


Also today, the half-figure of the commander has come .... extremely expensive, but "damned good."

The figure is from Scale Fanatic, design by Robert Döpp.

It is equipped with etched parts and perfectly cast from resin, packaged in a tin and costs € 36.95 € .... but awesome!!


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Then I had assembled the gun.

The gun barrel was only plugged in and not glued.


Now the ammunition racks had to complete and than the painting of the assemblies.



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I've made a lot of photos for our scratch builders ;-)



Edited by Frank.W.
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