building of the 1st module of my diorama 1 16 - The Wreck

[pte1643]

I think this is the most realsitic diorama I've ever seen.

Super attention to detail, individual bricks and motar, even reinforcement bar in the concrete.

Super, Super work.

[Frank.W.]

Many...many thanks for the very nice comments.

I've forgotten to write:

The broken concrete was treated with broken stones (modell railway accessoires) and pigments Europe dust and russian earth by Mig.

The ground under the rubble was painted brown.

Best regards

Frank

[Frank.W.]

Then came the first layer of rubble.

I fixed tape around the edge and in such a way that the adhesive tape protruded the edge by half width.

This should prevent the fall of rubble during construction of the diorama.

Dann trug ich mit einem Teelöffel den Schutt auf.

As the rubble I used crushed flower pot. This was crushed with a hammer.....a lot of work, because the crushed pieces must be very little.

After the rubble was distributed, I trickled this with diluted white glue (wood glue?) with a pipette .

The rubble is not yet complete.

This is the current state:

[Frank.W.]

Some areas were not covered with debris, others too coarse (large chunks), and others to monochrome and dark.

It is important in the production of rubble to shred the pieces of the flowerpots as fine as possible This is a painstaking task, butit is worth.

In my Dio the rubble at the front was too red and too coarse. For this reason, this area was worked intensively.

After application of the rubble immediately pigments Europe Dust were scattered irregularly.

Brick Dust I have avoided, as this is not weakened red.

Also, I brushed the concrete with diluted casein glue and sprinkled it with dust from the flower pots and Europe Dust.

The edges and recesses between the rails were treated intensively with Europe Dust.

Proceed with care!

If the ground is too wet, dissolve the pigments and there is a brown spot.

The pigments were additionally fixed with fixative spray.

Here are the pictures:

Then I have added a bit of debris on the burst location.

In addition I have made bigger chunks of the wall with clay, glued it to the Dio and "garnished" it with the rest of my self-made brick.

This was refined with Brick Dust pigments from Mig.

A further treatment is carried out yet.

[Frank.W.]

The rubble received a washing with diluted oil colours burnt umbra. An ammo box from another 1:16 kit was treated in the same way and was fixed on the rubble.

The metal parts on the rubble were painted.

Then I began to create the scene of fire.

First I fixed the left damaged track with UHU hart at the Dio.

Then I created the scene of fire in matt black with the airbrush. Toward the edge a little paler becoming.

Then I glued the tank onto the Dio.

The model had been carefully adapted to the ground.

The track I had not yet left on the rollers. First, I mixed cigarette ash with casein glue and smeared the paste on both sides next to each wheel.

Then ashes were scattered on it with a spoon again and then carefully sprayed with fixative. Fixative is a spray to fix charcoal, crayon and colored pencil drawings and is to buy in a shop for art supplies. At last I led the track over the wheels, adjusted it and fixed it with glue.

P.S.: Don't be afraid....the cigarette ashes don't stink

Best regards

Frank

[Frank.W.]

The T34 had been shot off a few days before.

Dust and debris had accrued through the battles on the wreck.

This I have modeled with crushed flower pot and pigments.

Additionally I had added ash to the scene of fire.

The walkway had been treated with rubble and pigments.

Then I burned a few boards with a blow torch. These were added to the scene of fire.

After that I built a distribution box with wire and parts of another kit.

Painted in gray gun, Washing in black and pigments from Mig.

[Frank.W.]

To amend the report:

The rubble of the walkway was fixed in the same way as the rubble of the ground

After the rubble was distributed, I trickled this with diluted white glue (wood glue?) with a pipette.

Since I was not quite satisfied with the walkway, I have added some boards.

Also a further pipeline had been added.

The boards I treated as previously - heavily diluted oil paint umbra burned. Then dabbed with a cloth. After the fixing of the boards, I've treated them with pigments.

The pipeline is built from a PVC pipe. First the bend/crack with a side cutter. Then treatment with Revell aqua color rust, then painted grey. After washing with black and dabbed this with a cloth after a little contact time.

The tube and the boards were fixed with UHU Hart.

After a treatment with diluted oil paint some boards were fixed on the rubble. For fixing I used UHU Hart.

[Frank.W.]

I guess it will slowly get bored.

Nevertheless I do continue to present a possible detailed report of the building of the diorama.

Since my last post, the following was done:

I built parts of the destroyed roof.

First I cut boards from balsa wood and pasted these parallel on square rods.

The wood was treated with oil paint burnt umbra and spotted off.

I glued emery paper (100 grit) onto this construction and ripped the paper partially.

Then the paper was painted grey. Now washing in black. After that treatment with pigments African Earth and brick dust Mig pigments). Most recently, a Drybrushing of wood and sand paper with light grey.

At last a Drybrushing of wood and sand paper with light grey.

This was made with Revell aquacolor.

Then, boards and bars from a balsa wood Board were cut. These were broken in various lengths.

After that treatment with heavily diluted oil paint burned umbra and as always spotted off with a cloth.

A longer brass L profile and 2 shorter U-profiles have been painted with gunnery grey. Then washing in black, spotted with a soft cloth after a short exposure time.

The profiles and the wooden boards / bars were fixed at the destroyed part of the walkway and irregularly on the walkway and the rubble.

Al last I treated the boards and bars witl a drybrushing and pigments.

Here the photos:

[Frank.W.]

the continuation of the small pipeline on the short side of the gangway has been created yet.

Once again, a view of the current state.

Some details, such as wires on the ground and the wires of the left walkway were added yet.

Because the images were all quite small and confusing, I would like to post here a picture with a neutral background and a bigger format.

Click on the link, you can see the picture in a higher resolution.

Click here for a larger view

Edited September 4, 2012 by Frank.W.

[Frank.W.]

Then I continued on the back.

At first I've molded fte ground with self hardened clay.

Clay is easier to handle than plaster.

I did not want to mess up the painting of the wall.

Then I have treated with the wooden wall of the trench.

At first a drybrushing with light gray, then here and there with black.

The nails were painted in Revell Aquacolor rust and oil colours english red.

Now I've built several details:

Some pieces of wood were painted and glued to the Dio and a cable was added at the framework.

Then I painted the clay on the other side of the wall in gray and brown wood.

Now the other side:

First, I sprinkled on the ground surface between the stairs and digging a thick layer of fine sand.

This was soaked with a mixture of white glue / water.

Gravel and forest floor of Woodland Scenics (modell railway accessoires) and finer gravel was scattered on the wet layer of sand.

Then some sea foam branches were glued on it. Some bright bristles (Noch model railway accessoires) were set as tuft of grass.

Now a lot of debris was spread over this part of the diorama with a teaspoon.

I took a pipette to drizzle with water diluted casein glue over the rubble. After drying it fixes the rubble unvisible among each other and with the ground.

The whole must dry for at least one, better two days.

Today I stuck a few roots on the Dio.

Then grass was set. This is from some soft pine, which is already dried.

Finally came the wood debris that has been previously treated with diluted oil paint burnt umber.

[Riggers]

Again, superb! 1 question though, won't the dried pine needles go brown 'eventually'? Did you apply hairspray to 'seal' the needle?

ATB & kind regards,

Edited September 5, 2012 by Riggers

[Frank.W.]

Thank you for your interest and the question.

I had this feared also, but the needles were parched and had a green colour anyway.

Otherwise I would have coloured the needles.

The treatment of the grass wasn't ready.....more on that later.

Best regards

Frank

[pte1643]

I guess it will slowly get bored.

Nevertheless I do continue to present a possible detailed report of the building of the diorama.

Believe me Frank, this is not getting boring.

Please do keep posting.

Really enjoying reading your report.

[Frank.W.]

Thank you very much.

It's not my intention to stop the posting...but it will be a very very long report. The making of the second module will be much more extensive than the first.

Now back to the first module:

Small bricolage - the door to the extension.

I have just finished the door for the extension of the house as little tinkering.

First I cut the lamella of a wooden blinds to narrow strips.

Do not use balsa wood, as this will strongly absorb the color of subsequent treatment.

Then I glued them on 2 cross bars, and provided with a diagonal reinforcing bar. You see .... I know how everything is clearly explained.

Afterwards came a Washing burned umber oil paint. Then this dabbed and painted dark green after a few minutes with Revell Aqua Color. During the drying phase, I pushed the nail holes with screws. These things I have forgotten before the Washing unfortunately.

After the green paint had dried on the surface, I took duct tape and taped it to the surface (press hard). When the tape was removed it removes partial the paint. This procedure I repeated several times. Then I brushed the door with a hard bristle brush.

Then a washing with diluted oil paint burnt umbra.

This accentuates the deeper spots.

A rail connector of LGB rails (which I used for the Dio) was flexed with the Dremel and bent into shape with pliers. A hole for the pawl and one elongated drilled as keyhole.

Cut a wire, bent at 90 degrees, and bonded as a pawl in the hole.

Now all painted in rust. Then black. The Black swabbed so that "rust" came to light.

The whole thing then glued with UHU Hart on the door.

Supplementing it again with larger chunks of debris, such as parts of the roof and a few branches.

I have described before the creation of the roof remains. Roofing felt from 100 abrasive paper.

The branches are remnants of roots.

Edited September 6, 2012 by Frank.W.

[Frank.W.]

Since the grass did not look so good, they were refined with khaki and brown and with some natural colored bristles.

Then I added further details.

Once a bucket that I have left from my RC Tiger and then I have tinkered an old broom.

For this I cut a small boards out of a strip of wood and drilled in the bottom half of a lot of small holes (not pierce!).

In the middle of the top half I drilled a hole and glued a skewer into it.

After a short time of drying, I brushed the bottom side of the small plank with wood glue and pressed tufts of bristles into the glue. The whole was placed in the form, and then a few minutes to dry laid aside. After drying, the bristles were cut.

The whole thing was treated with diluted oil paint burnt umber.

Thereafter, the "old broom" glued to the Dio.

[Frank.W.]

From the thin aluminum sheet from a candle of a teapot warmer I cut shoulder straps for guns, fixed it and then painted brown with oil paint. The soldiers were further treated with diluted oil paint burnt umber and dust heavily with pigments Europe Dust from Mig . They were then fixed in the final position on the Dio.

In addition, I built from aluminium sheet an open tin can, which I also fixed on the floor next to the soldiers.

It was tinkered as follows. The sheet was bent around a brush handle and glued together. On this, the underside of the tin can was glued and fitted after dryingwith a scissors. The cover had been cut out, and a small corner thereon allowed to fix it to the seam. After that treatment with matte clear coat.

And here a complete sight of the diorama from different prospects:

[Jaykay]

Amazing

[Riggers]

JAw dropping! Simply an amazing walkthrough. Learnt so much from your work Frank, many thanks..............

[Frank.W.]

Thank you very much.

In my opinion a forum is for the sharing of knowledge.

I like to share and hope that many will benefit.

I just want to benefit from the knowledge of others.

It's a give and a take.

I've already a question....what's the meaning of JAw dropping?

Now the report:

The last picture of the post before shows it –

the right part beside the front door had to be completed.

I created a support wall from little balsa wood bars. On this vertical slats for support were fixed. Then horizontal slats were glued as ladder rungs.

With a screw tip again nail holes were punched and two crooked "nails"were added.

The how to do was described in one of the posts before.

This was painted with diluted oil paint burnt umber again and fixed to the Dio.

With self hardened clay I moulded the ground.

Before this was dried I pressed a root coated with adhesive in the soft clay.

After hardening of the clay this was painted with Revell Aqua Color dark earth.

Then everything was covered with fine sand. Then came the diluted casein glue.

Natural grass was re-created with the pine needles and bristles from Noch. Various root fragments were glued. Then debris (Crushed flower pot) was spread with a teaspoon and fixed with diluted casein glue. Finally, a rope was moved as little detail behind the stump along to the figure of soldier. The rope is Graupner rigging thread and has a very nice scale structure.

Except for the one or other little thing the first module of my great diorama should be completed now.

One figure and the rats were added later.....but this in the report of the second module.

[Riggers]

Hi Frank,

Jaw dropping means 'Oh my God!!!!' Amazing piece of work, you are very talented indeed.

ATB..............

[Frank.W.]

Thanks a lot

Would be nice if you would pursue my report furthermore. But I must warn you ... it is very very long.

ATB :-)

Frank

[Frank.W.]

I hope that it was not too stressful.

This is a summary of the entire report with a description of my practices.

There are certainly other ways .... all roads lead to Rome.

The first report was written on 6.12.2009, the last on 28.3.2010.

If anyone has any questions .... go ahead. I'm willing to answer anything about my options.

Greetings

Frank

Edited September 8, 2012 by Frank.W.

[Warris]

Frank your work is simply amazing

I have learnt so much from your work that I'm going to try

Al

[Frank.W.]

Thanks a lot.....then the purpose is achieved :-)

I'm very pleased about your motivation.

Now the report of the building of the second modul

At first I wanted to start a new thread about the building of the second module.

I've decided to continue this thread, not to loose the connection.

The base of the 2nd module was completed before.

Now I present the first kit.

The Kit of the Kingtiger in 1/16 containes a lot of packages for many many parts.

These packages were distributed on the base to prepare the assembly and to get an overview.

At last the kit contains more than 1200 parts.

As I said above in the construction - the base is 60 x 70 cm and well-stocked with single boxes.

Edited September 8, 2012 by Frank.W.

[Frank.W.]

Now I've started the construction of the armoured hull.

The armoured hull itself - 1 part.

The inner flanks right and left - each 1 part

4 Shock absorbers - 4 parts.

Front Interior panels with pedal and 2 bearings.

The inner flanks and the front plate beautifully simulates the original diameter.

The brake cover - 3 parts.

Various small parts, 2 cable channels 7 cross and 2 longitudinal rakes.

The very thin rakes - both transverse and longitudinal - should be fixed very carefully.

These buckles very quickly and needs attention to fix correct.

Here the images:

Shock absorbers and brakes were only plugged and not attached

So far, I have assembled the torsion bars and the swing arms, deburred and loosely placed in the armoured hull (for easier painting).

Chassis works are always so longsome.

The Interior was primed black and then the armoured hull was coated with Zimmerit.

I used Apoxie sculpt, a modelling clay with extra hardener for the Zimmerit. This is applied "by hand" and smooth coated with the finger and water as possible and distributed. .... I think a not very simple business. Then I have "stamped" the structure with an "Zimmerit"stamp from Imerial Modellbau. The stamp had to be cleaned again and again!!!

Here again a small update, to show the dimensions.