Airfix 1/48 Sea Harrier FRS.1 - another bite of the elephant

[colihamp]

This is going to be good!

[LT Motta]

Impressive updates!

I'm enjoying each one!

[NickR]

This is going to be good!

Thanks colihamp - I hope so!!

Impressive updates!

I'm enjoying each one!

Thanks Jose - enjoying yours too!

[NickR]

Life and work have thrown a bit at me recently so progress is slow. I have now managed to detail the nose wheel with some lead wire and scrap. I am happy with it (although the tie down hooks could be better ) and will now work on how it connects inside the bay - I have a plan to fix 2 small brackets, as per the real thing, that I can then slot the wheel assembly into and glue at the end of the build and when I put the doors and the three brass rod jacks in place.

Back in another few weeks probably!!

[bigbadbadge]

Wow Nick, this is brilliant work will watch this with much interest.

Keep up the good work fella

All the best

Chris

[Davec_24]

This is looking very good so far, especially for a first foray into major sctratch-detailing! I did one of these as my second such attempt, and it makes what is a very basic kit into something a bit special. Just don't do what I did, and make the nose wheel bay a mirror image of the real deal by failing to remember that the shots you look at which are taken from in front mean that the port wall is on the right of the picture and visa-versa.

[NickR]

Wow Nick, this is brilliant work will watch this with much interest.

Keep up the good work fella

All the best

Chris

Thanks Chris

This is looking very good so far, especially for a first foray into major sctratch-detailing! I did one of these as my second such attempt, and it makes what is a very basic kit into something a bit special. Just don't do what I did, and make the nose wheel bay a mirror image of the real deal by failing to remember that the shots you look at which are taken from in front mean that the port wall is on the right of the picture and visa-versa.

I know what you mean Dave, I went crossed eyed trying to work it out, turning pictures upside down and all sorts. Having said that I am only picking on specific details to get accurate (such as the aluminium tube/vent running the length of the Stb side) as there is a myriad of pipes, bottles, tubes, wires and valves that you can't possibly replicate in this scale. Once those few acurate details are replicated the rest is made up!!! as you'll see in my next post.

Thanks for the encouragement

[NickR]

As the thread title now suggests, this is going to be like eating an elephant, you have to take lots of small mouthfulls!

Next mouthful is the aft wall of the nose wheel bay where the u/c hinges (?) and the jack mechanism is located. As I have said above I have tried to replicate obvious details (the jack and hinge but the rest is made up (No! Really?)

I think I am calling detailing complete now, next up black paint to act as primer/base that will help accentuate shadows, darker corners etc. - then a white coat and then pick out the details with RAF Light Aircraft Grey (Humbrol 166) as per instructions.

Having said that the colour in photos of the cyclinders/undercarriage/etc have a greeny bluey grey colour - is 166 the right colour, what would be a good Tamiya mix to get near or can anyone suggest a better/truer match?

Thanks

[SaintsPhil]

Great work, and cracking idea using electronics as the bits and pieces in the bay, I'll remember that one! Do we get bonus points if we can tell you the resistance?

[Greased Lightning]

Love the detail on the gear!

[Wolf]

Stunning build!

One of my favourite airplanes the SHarrs.

Congrats.

Stunning build!

One of my favourite airplanes the SHarrs.

Congrats.

[Jessica]

For your landing light, there are fantastic ones in the model railroad world. Look for M V Products lenses. They're tiny metal foil cups with clear resin fronts. Alternatively, you can make your own by punching out foil discs, rounding them over the back of a paintbrush and adding a drop of Krystal clear for the lens.

[Martian]

Thisis turning intoa seriously impressive build!

Martin

[NickR]

Thanks for all your positive comments - it is good to know I appear to be on the right track with this!

Great work, and cracking idea using electronics as the bits and pieces in the bay, I'll remember that one! Do we get bonus points if we can tell you the resistance?

Thanks Phil, I can't claim credit for the idea, I have seen one or two on here do that. £5 on Fleabay secured a bag of these goodies that should last me until they are museum pieces. There are no extra point for getting the resistance, whatever that is!

For your landing light, there are fantastic ones in the model railroad world. Look for M V Products lenses. They're tiny metal foil cups with clear resin fronts. Alternatively, you can make your own by punching out foil discs, rounding them over the back of a paintbrush and adding a drop of Krystal clear for the lens.

Thanks Jessica, was thinking of Klear so your advice has made my mind up. Was going to put putty in, smooth it and paint it silver before the Klear - is there an advantage to using foil cups?

Thisis turning intoa seriously impressive build!

Martin

Thanks Martin. Was inspired by your TSR2 build - that demonstrated it is ok to take your time and enjoy the detailing!

[NickR]

Next bit done

Primed XF1 flat black, painted X2 white and picked out detail with Humbrol 127 Ghost Grey (as per Nick Greenhall's suggestesions here) and this too will be the undercarriage colour. Kleared and then an oil pin wash and finally a coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish.

Now going to try to stick it all together - hope the flipping thing fits now!!!

[Jessica]

Thanks Jessica, was thinking of Klear so your advice has made my mind up. Was going to put putty in, smooth it and paint it silver before the Klear - is there an advantage to using foil cups?

It makes a nice smooth reflective surface for the back of your lamp that you would have a lot of difficulty achieving with paint.

[NickR]

It makes a nice smooth reflective surface for the back of your lamp that you would have a lot of difficulty achieving with paint.

Thanks Jessica - foil it is then!

[NickR]

It lives!!!

Managed to get it glued up and have to say I am pleased with the result. Only disappointment is slight lack of contrast between white walls and grey details but I think the EDSG will help with that

Snaps don't do it justice really as it look better in the flesh

and it situ - it fits!!

Need to finish off nose wheel painting but shan't attach the jack and put into position until final finshing. Will have a look at the u/c doors next as have to detail them, add hinges and add the jacks which I have left space for inside the bay - that could be fun getting them located!

I should also say, as was pinted out by Nick Greenhall (thanks for your help so far Nick), I have not quiet got the aft shape of this bay right as it tapers to a narrower point with the intake fairing narrowing to a point too. Mine is too wide! I will allow myself the odd mistake as this is a learning process and the bay was always my "safe" learning zone ahead of the more important cockpit!!! Will need more help there for certain!

Thanks for looking

[mark73]

Stunning work, well done

[Neal]

"Snaps don't do it justice really as it look better in the flesh"

Blimey it looks pretty amazing in the pictures. Well done.

[BrandX]

Top turn, Sir. Also, the thread title reminds me of a pub I used to live near: it was renowned for food in the 1950s, and had a sandwich menu that purported to be the most comprehensive anywhere. It included some really weird things but when you got down to it, mostly it was various permutations of the same ingredients. However, it had a footnote to the effect that: "Sadly, we are not making Elephant sandwiches any longer. We cannot get the bread any longer". Well, it was probably hilarious in the 50s...

[Col.]

Cracking work in there Nick. The two SHARs under the bench are looking tempting again as I'm reading yor latest progress...

[Loki]

Very nice Nick!

[LT Motta]

Spectacular!!!

[Loki]

Love it - Great stuff Nick. I do have to say that I have always preferred a very light grey with white highlights for u/c areas.

Great job sir.