Airfix 1/48 Sea Harrier FRS.1 - another bite of the elephant

[NickR]

Well, as alluded to in my recent (and only second!) RFI (here if you are interested) displaying my 3rd, 4th & 5th completed builds, I am now going to embark on my first WIP!

What I have learnt in my short time in the hobby is that taking time to plan, solve problems and learn new techniques is what I have enjoyed most. I did my last model (Seafire XVII) as a quickie but didn't enjoy it nearly as much. I have also found myself drawn more to the WIP than RFI threads - perhaps this too suggests I prefer the process rather than the results (although I do enjoy the results too).

I am fascinated and awed by the skill and attention to detail of some guys on here. This WIP is going to be the first small steps towards hopefully achieving those levels of skill, and as such, I looking for as much help and suggestion as anything from this WIP. Some have already helped in the planning stage elsewhere on Britmodeller, even if they don't know it, so thanks to those that contributed here and here - in particular Nick G (NG899) and Dave (SHAR2) for their help and PMs.

That's enough of my life story! The whole reason for building this Sea Harrier is continuing my theme of British Heroes and none can claim to be that much more than the Sea Harrier FRS.1 and those that flew and looked after them during the Falklands. An aircraft untested in combat and with many detractors writing it off as too slow and a just gimmick, piloted by brave and skilled men, proved itself anything but. You only have to watch the recent re run of "Decisive Weapons" (here on Youtube and well worth a watch) to realise how brave ("75% of you will not return!") these guys where and how well they were supported.

Anyway, on with the build (which will be a marathon not a sprint by the way - it took me a month just to get started!!)

Here are the bits I shall be using..
Model and extras



oooo, lovelly Sidewinders



First class book with pictures, diagrams and building tips



...and this is the link I have used so far for my main inspiration....

Nick Greenhall SIG Build Process

The first skill I knew I was going to have to learn was one that, reading so many comments by so many of you, was going to be hard going - rescribing!! I have begun to realise, after one fuselage half, many expletives, sanding and puttying and more sanding why it is so unpopular!!!


As well as rescribing I have also drilled a hole for the camera towards the nose and recessed the panel. I have a small panel of 5 thou cut with a hole and backed with clear pastic from a Tesco meat container (glued with Klear) as a cover panel for the camera (currently testing a copy of this to ensure when masked with liquid mask it doesnt pull it out/tear). I also drilled a hole for the vent just ahead of it and have put some fine mesh in taken from a spare PE grill that was, according to Eduard's instructions, for the GTS/APU exhaust vent that doesn't require a mesh - I think I am right on that - I hope so as I have a knackered mesh now!)




Airbrake internal area has been cut out to make way for some detailing when fuselage halves are put together (can't see from these pictures).I have prepared the tailplane slot so I can use the Pavla tailplane. Cut the heat shields and will make some more as per Nick Greenhall's template (website named above).


Cut a hole for the GTS/APU inlet (difficult to see against white background)

Next job is to start to make necessary cuts and adjustments to bring the turbine blades forward - bit scared of that bit!

Onwards and upwards & thanks for looking!

Edited August 26, 2013 by NickR

[buttoncup]

I have just made that model kit, it was very nice and fun to build.

Looking forward to seeing your build.

[SaintsPhil]

A fine subject, I started one a while back but it's sat awaiting my skills to catch up with my ambition!!

Here's a thread I was using as inspiration!

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67767

Incidently here's a thread about the vents,

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...topic=234909426

Now I know it's a GR7/9 but I'm 99% sure the vents are the same if not similar, and it at least confirms the mesh cover arrangement

Phil

Edited July 25, 2012 by SaintsPhil

[Neal]

Nick,

Looks like you've made a good solid start.

Subscribed and watching with interest.

[AnonymousAA72]

An excellent start Nick. You won't go far wrong if you follow Nick's notes.. Just a thought ..I know that you've already invested in a ton of resin already, but do consider getting your hands on a Neomega cockpit, they really are rather good.....(if sometimes a funny lurid green coloured resin!) . Nice job on the scribing as well!

Happy V/Stolling!

[exdraken]

Great variety of Am products!

Looks quite complete the eduard sidewinders are a delight imo

Looking forward to some progress!

Happy modeling!

-exdraken

[Oggy]

I've just started one of these so I am very interested in your build.

Have you got a free pair of Martels/Sea Eagles with yours?

Edited July 25, 2012 by Oggy

[NickR]

I have just made that model kit, it was very nice and fun to build.

Looking forward to seeing your build.

I saw that buttercup and hope I do as splendid a job as you did - particularly the painting.

A fine subject, I started one a while back but it's sat awaiting my skills to catch up with my ambition!!

Here's a thread I was using as inspiration!

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67767

Incidently here's a thread about the vents,

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...topic=234909426

Now I know it's a GR7/9 but I'm 99% sure the vents are the same if not similar, and it at least confirms the mesh cover arrangement

Phil

Thanks Phil.

Rich F's build has been an inspiration for me from the start. I first saw the RFI (Here) and was wowed by it so went to his WIP and was wowed some more - thanks Rich F!

Cheers for the link to the mesh discussion - that is really helpful.

An excellent start Nick. You won't go far wrong if you follow Nick's notes.. Just a thought ..I know that you've already invested in a ton of resin already, but do consider getting your hands on a Neomega cockpit, they really are rather good.....(if sometimes a funny lurid green coloured resin!) . Nice job on the scribing as well!

Happy V/Stolling!

Thanks Bill

I umm'd and arr'd on the Neomega cockpit and haven't made a final decision. Whilst the detail is excellent it is another expense and seems to have a fit issue around the coaming (as per Rich F's WIP). Plus, I want to use this build to try out some new techniques such as using lead wire, styrene strip and plasticard to add detail. The cockpit seems the best place on this kit to do that. I will do some in the front wheel bay but a view into that will be limited. Things might change though!

I've just started one of these so I am very interested in your build.

Have you got a free pair of Martels/Sea Eagles with yours?

Hi Oggy, are you going to pop it on here so I can get some tips???? I did get Sea Eagles with it but was planning to use them how Nick G suggests and cut them to make the fairing over the hubs of the brought forward turbine. However, if you are after them I can make alternative arrangements, although I would warn you they aren't very detailed!

Edited July 26, 2012 by NickR

[Oggy]

Hi Nick - any progress?

Are you having problems with thew kit?

I found both wings have about 2mm more chord than the fuselage where they join so there is a kink in the leading edge.

I almost had to resort to hydraulics to get the two halves of the fuselage together. Hope you are having better luck.

[NG899]

Hi Nick R,

Which Falklands SHAR are you modelling?

Drop me a PM with your direct e-mail address in it and I'll send you something to help you...

Also, if youy you have any Qs, do ask me for help on this one.

I think my Airfix 1:48th scale SHAR count is up to 6 now.

Good luck!

Nick

[NickR]

Hi Nick - any progress?

Are you having problems with thew kit?

I found both wings have about 2mm more chord than the fuselage where they join so there is a kink in the leading edge.

I almost had to resort to hydraulics to get the two halves of the fuselage together. Hope you are having better luck.

Hi Oggy

Some progress but I am way behind you. Re the fuselage, I can see it being a real issue and have an idea of how tricky it is going to be, especially as I plan to squeeze in a wheel bay at the front

Fits at the front

Fits at the back

Then getting it to fit completely!!!!!!

I think the stbd half is a touch longer than the port half giving the overal shape of a banana! Not sure if I can address that or do what you did and SQUEEEZE!

[NickR]

Hi Nick R,

Which Falklands SHAR are you modelling?

Drop me a PM with your direct e-mail address in it and I'll send you something to help you...

Also, if youy you have any Qs, do ask me for help on this one.

I think my Airfix 1:48th scale SHAR count is up to 6 now.

Good luck!

Nick

Hi Nick

As per my PM I am doing XZ457

Thanks for the help Nick, your advice is and will be invaluable.

Edited August 6, 2012 by NickR

[NickR]

I knew that, because of the little available time I have, this would be a slow burn but I have also been completely absorbed by the Olympics! How wonderful is the whole event?

Anyway, after much wailing and gnashing of teeth I have 90% completed the fuselage rescribing and whole drilling etc. This is my first attempt at rescribing and I can see how I improved from the stbd nose, backwards and then forwards on the port side finishing at the nose. There is more to do (underside panels) but I need to get the fuselage together, filled and sanded so will leave that (need a break from it too!)

The progress in pictures (can anyone tell me the best size in Photobucket to put them on here - I get massive ones or tiny ones and can't seem to get anything in between!??)

I also sanded back the Airfix "heatshields" cut out the vents on top, cleaned up the airbrake area for some future detailing, reposiotned fire access port.

You can just make out some mistakes that were filled and redone and I have been experimeneting with differnet putties fillers to see which I like best (all of them but for different jobs appears to be the answer!). Also some plasticard to raise a couple of small panels and for the vents on the nose

Going to the Olympics tomorrow (athletics) and hols on Saturday for two weeks so progress will ressume thereafter

Enjoy the rest of the Summer!

[NickR]

Did a bit more between mens 400m and boxing last night!

Using this link from SaintsPhil here I fashioned GPS/APU exhaust out of 2mm channel cut in half to make "L" shapes and strengthened corners with scrap and to add a touch more interest

and then taped in place for the time being. When overall paintjob done I will mask and paint intake and surround aluminium (that seems many moons away!)

Looking forward to the nosewheel bay when I am back from hols. That will be my first serious bit of scrathing and detailing and am really looking forward to the challenge.

[Rich F]

Good start Nick, got all the makings of a great Shar, the scribing looks particulary good

Glad my build has been of some use too!

[NickR]

Good start Nick, got all the makings of a great Shar, the scribing looks particulary good

Glad my build has been of some use too!

Thanks Rich F

It is enormously useful. Glad I get the opportunity to thank you in person!

Started to think about my nose wheel bay now and am seeking advice. I have looked at reference pictures (Thanks Nick G) and considering where the tub will sit and the angle of intakes (which will be adjusted to bring the turbine forward and mean I will have to cut back the kit piece that is the housing around the turbine too) I reckon this kind of shape will work. I know it needs to be deep enough to accomodate a nose wheel so would this be about right?? Just seen the top picture - I would extend into the nose as per the bottom picture

Part 12, the bulkhead behind the seat, extends down into the bay (which seems to replicate the real thing from the reference pictures) but I would cut this away as building that into the bay would be a pain. Or would it?? Along with the bottom of the tub It could make the cockpit and nosewheel bay one unit, but would it be tricker to get all dimnesions right and fit???

Plan A I think

[Norman]

You have made a great start !! keep going mate

But without wanting to highjack the thread can i make one comment

''why oh bloody why cant we get a mainline kit producer to embrace and produce a new series of state of the art Harriers'' ??

Anyway keep up the great work

Cheers

[LT Motta]

Nice job and solutions!

[NickR]

Nice job and solutions!

Thanks Jose. I hope you and the other Harrier experts pop back here from time to time to lend some advice!

You have made a great start !! keep going mate

But without wanting to highjack the thread can i make one comment

''why oh bloody why cant we get a mainline kit producer to embrace and produce a new series of state of the art Harriers'' ??

Anyway keep up the great work

Cheers

Thanks Norman. It does seem strange that no one took the opportunity with the Falklands 30th anniversary and the RAF ditching the Harrier to come up with some new kits. They would have cleaned up. Sure there must be a reason!

[NickR]

Back from holiday all refreshed and itching to get back into this.

Have decided to take Nick G's advice in his excellent build notes and bring the turbine forward for realism.

However, I do want to do a detailed nose wheel bay so have taken a slightly different approach to Nick. Not necessarily better, just different. I know that detail in the bay will be limited but, as I said at the top of this thread, I am finding the planning & problem solving the most fun part of this hobby. I have never done any real scratching, detailing before (only completed 5 models!) and am enjoying it so far!

I am going to make the nose wheel bay and adjusted intakes in one unit. I have made a small "v" section, strengthened it and added the rounded hub covers that can be seen inside the intakes. This will give the distinct tapering of the bay towards the aft.

When fitted should form the necessary shape inside the bay

I also sanded where the kit part meets the newer intakes to make a smoother surface between the two

Have cut the internal sides to shape and removed the moulded guide for the rear cockpit bulkhead to make some room

Will do top and front over the coming days.

[NickR]

Managed to find some time to do a bit more - always nice!

Built the nose wheel bay now. Stuck together with tape (hence a few gaps) but it fits and is taking the desired shape. As space is a premium I used 10 thou card but it means that the whole thing is a touch flimsy. Will be adding some angle section to strengthen joins and give it a bit more solidity.

The gap towards the aft is (from reference photos) supposed to be there but not this deep as houses the top of the gear actuating cyclinder (not sure what it is called!) - will address that before next update

I have some ideas for detailing, most of which are probably unfeasable, but I'll have a crack and see how I get on!

[NickR]

Hmmmm...

Bit disappointed. Took a few hours last night and this evening trying to add detial to my nose wheel bay and it isn't quite as good as I had hoped

Couldn't seem to hold anything in place long enough (with my trembling mits!) for CA to cure and reapplications have left it looking gummy. I can seem to make little tee junctions and scratch a bit of a unit but then getting the lead wire to stick!!! I tried drilling holes to accept the wires but struggled to hold the small parts to do it.

This build is supposed to be a learning experience so If anyone can point me in the right direction (WIP/guide/video) so I can get a bit more knowledge I would be grateful.

Things people might have some answers on:-

How do you hold such small parts?

Which CA and should I Use a kicker?

Where can you buy an extra pair of arms, each with multiple hands?

A few more bits ready to be put in

Thanks in advance

Edited August 28, 2012 by NickR

[mark73]

Remember building one of these about 20+ years ago...the old airfix open top boxing...amazing work best of luck with the rest of your build

[Col.]

Hello Nick, very good work so far, that undercarriage bay will make a great area of additional detail within the finished model.

Tried to reply this morning but the forum fell over and my post got lost into the ether so will try again.

When working with small parts or painting them I find taking a breath, partially exhaling, then holding the breath can help steady my hands. Also using dress-makers pins as a guide, pushed lightly into the main part, will help hold the small parts as they are added to avoid 'wander' while positioning and gluing.

Hope this helps you in some way and look forward to watching your further progress on this one.

[NickR]

Thanks for the advice Col.

Been a bit busy with work and life but got some more done.

I applied a little more patience and used some of the methods Col. suggested and am a little happier with life as a result. Also found up the old "helping hands" that I had put away as I didn't get on with the magnifier. This helped quite a bit once I sussed that I could use it to hold tweezers and the like!

Got three internal walls detailed and the "ceiling"? Might be tricky to get and idea of it laid flat but this is what I have come up with so far

Have cut brass rod jacks for the main wheel strut and bay doors. The main rod part on each is not glued so I can slide them into place when I have painted and am adding the doors and placing the nose wheel

The nose wheel in the kit is bland.

It mightn't be too apparent from the pictures but I have emphasised the hinge areas as well as cutting the lugs off for locating the wheel (which the instructions would have you insert when gluing the two halves of the undercarriage together making painting etc tricky). I have drilled out and will replace with brass/styrene rod.

I also cut the "U" shape in the top of the strut where the jack would attach to make it look more like the real thing and added the extra red light that isn't on the kit part. I cleaned up the main light too to thin the edges. Can you buy small lens shapes anywhere or shall I use some clear sprue rounded and buffed - or even some large drops of Klear??

Some hydraulic pipes and the PE tie down hooks to come next.

Progress is slow, but I am enjoying it and reasonably pleased with my first attempts at detailing!