Cutting into masking tape, tips needed

[Decoman]

I have had some success in cutting out masks after applying masking tape onto canopy parts on a model, but I wonder if there is more I shoud know about doing this, to get a better result.

What I do now:

1) Place tamiya masking tape onto canopy glass

2) Even out the edges with a small object

3) Cut the masking tape with a scalpell blade, trying to let the tiny corner in the plastic be the guide for the blade

4) Attempt to successfully peel off masking tape

Could I possibly improve on this in any way?

Edited July 17, 2012 by Decoman

[Duncan B]

It depends on the size of kit, your method will work fine with 1/48 scale but if you go down to 1/72 it might get fiddly. I use the metal foil that is usually used to finish off models, it is sticky on one side and very thin so can be stuck to the canopies then pushed into the corners with the end of a toothpick and cut with a sharp scalpel blade in the same way as your method. This works well for me and it doesn't use too much of the foil so one sheet lasts a long time.

There are various other ways of masking, it comes down to personal choice really, try a few different methods and see which you prefer.

[CliffB]

My tips (which I sometimes remember to adhere to myself!),

1) Always use a brand new blade; in fact within half a dozen cuts or so you will notice the blade starting to pull on the tape - take this as your cue to fit a new blade (expect to get through loads of blades!).

2) On straight-sided windows I'll often pre-cut the tape off the model - I use sharp pointed dividers to measure off the dimensions.

3) Use lots of small bits of tape to cover curved shapes (rather than trying to do it in just one piece).

4) Before removing the tape (once painted), run a sharp blade around the circumference. This will cut through the paint and provide a nice sharp edge when you take off the tape.

Cheers

Cliff

[Neal]

My tips (which I sometimes remember to adhere to myself!),

1) Always use a brand new blade; in fact within half a dozen cuts or so you will notice the blade starting to pull on the tape - take this as your cue to fit a new blade (expect to get through loads of blades!).

2) On straight-sided windows I'll often pre-cut the tape off the model - I use sharp pointed dividers to measure off the dimensions.

3) Use lots of small bits of tape to cover curved shapes (rather than trying to do it in just one piece).

4) Before removing the tape (once painted), run a sharp blade around the circumference. This will cut through the paint and provide a nice sharp edge when you take off the tape.

Cheers

Cliff

I'd never thought of doing #4 to stop the paint ripping, great list of tips. Thanks

[Decoman]

That 4th tip above seem like a good idea. Have to try that out on my next project!

I have been conscious about not allowing paint to dry with masking tape on, because of the rough edges I end up with if I leave the masking tape on for too long (btw, I paint wiht a brush currently).

I do suspect that one should take care to not let paint pool up against the edge of the masking tape regardless.

[Alpha Delta 210]

It depends on the size of kit, your method will work fine with 1/48 scale but if you go down to 1/72 it might get fiddly. I use the metal foil that is usually used to finish off models, it is sticky on one side and very thin so can be stuck to the canopies then pushed into the corners with the end of a toothpick and cut with a sharp scalpel blade in the same way as your method. This works well for me and it doesn't use too much of the foil so one sheet lasts a long time.

There are various other ways of masking, it comes down to personal choice really, try a few different methods and see which you prefer.

Great tip, thanks Duncan.

I hate masking (probably because I'm not very good at it!). I sometimes use painted decal film, but I have just ordered some self-adhesive bare metal foil with free delivery from Hannants for £5.62. I will give it a go on my next model.

Thanks again.

[Frank Fontaine]

Some good tips there for us all.

Out of interest, what is everyone obsession with Tamiya tape? Sure any low tack masking tape would suffice?

[Decoman]

I suspect people have the impression that the Tamiya tape simply looks nice both opened and unopened. The color reminds me of post-it notes.

Edited July 18, 2012 by Decoman

[Julien]

Tamyia tape is the best I have found for doing canopies. I use a toothpick to get the tape into the framelines before cutting.

For canopies with very indistinct lines 3m klear tape is a good second.

Julien

[Bertie McBoatface]

Some good tips there for us all.

Out of interest, what is everyone obsession with Tamiya tape? Sure any low tack masking tape would suffice?

low tack masking tape from the diy shops is not good for this sort of job. The surface areas involved are too small and the tape will move or peel away. Regular high tack tape from the diy shop leaves residue, is thick and doesn't do curves very well.

Tamiya tape, though expensive, seems to be worth it because it conforms to curves, sticks well, is fairly thin, leaves no residue even when left on for months and is easily available. I also like the way it changes colour slightly when it's properly pressed down.

I also use the very thin tape available from little cars. You can get 0.5mm wide rolls, very handy for the very fiddly bits.

[Decoman]

I must get some thinner Tamiya tape, because the thinnest I have is the 6mm roll, and I am getting tired of scissoring the tape into thinner strips.

Hrm, it would not surprise me if the 6mm tape is the thinnest one from Tamiya.

Edited July 19, 2012 by Decoman

[theclay]

always a brand new blade and use the weight of the knife to cut the tape. you don't want it zoo heavy that it scratches the clear parts, it doesn't take much to do that.