REVELL ROUTEMASTER MODIFICATIONS

[Model69]

Hello folks

I thought you might like to see these images of Routemaster parts for reference when building the Revell kit. I have tried to point out some missed detailing and also modifications that can be made if you feel the urge. This detail I will be including on my next RM build...

I think with a lot of thought and referencing this b frame is possible

The curve from the right top of driver's cab needs to be added. is not on the revell kit. This bit i did add, but is still not quite correct.

Above images - I have also spotted that the passenger front window above the engine lid needs to be more oblong (not sure this can be corrected easily though, as this involves changing window size on the interior and also the window behind the driver's cab on the inside. Look at the straight angle of the left side of the drivers cab, as it goes down towards the top of the left light. Study that area and notice the differences....not sure this can be corrected on the Revell kit, but i'm going to have a go

I am aware that route number side display, front brake vents & recessing/lighting options are depending on the era. The petrol tank appears to be only on the other side with the early prototypes, but if you are thinking of modelling RM1, then you will need to look at this. When you actually really start looking, there are many differences visually, so if you want to do a specific bus, then do your homework.

Edited July 6, 2012 by Model69

[pte1643]

Also, the Headlamp Panels (on the Revell Kit) are the "Shallower" early RM type.

The RML's were, originally, fitted with the "Deeper" later style ones that aligned with the bottom of the Radiator Grille.

Although, having said that, it wasn't unusual for them to be swapped, or even to have one of each.

The Reg' Plate position (hanging below the Rad') isn't technically incorrect, just depends on the era.

Edited July 6, 2012 by pte1643

[Model69]

Also, the Headlamp Panels (on the Revell Kit) are the "Shallower" early RM type.

The RML's were, originally, fitted with the "Deeper" later style ones that aligned with the bottom of the Radiator Grille.

Although, having said that, it wasn't unusual for them to be swapped, or even to have one of each.

The Reg' Plate position (hanging below the Rad') isn't technically incorrect, just depends on the era.

Hello there

Thanks for your input.

Yes I realize that some of these features are depending on the era. After looking at RM 273 on the net (bus RM i used on my model) I realised with her being an earlier model, that she was modified over the years. Side route number was removed and front wings changed to non vented etc.

I think with my next build the cab shape is my main priority to get right. I will have a spare kit for any mistakes in the change process.

Thanks

David

Edited July 6, 2012 by Model69

[Selwyn]

What you must also highlight is the Grille. and Bonnet Front and also be aware of the Destination blind design (3 line or 4 line, upper case or lower case!), these all changed at various periods.

The original Badge position was on the bonnet the grille had a Crohme surround and red central strip. This was then changed with now a central Chrome strip. then tye Y type central strip with badge.

Sometimes you could see the bonnet badge and grille badge together.

With this RML or when converting to a RM the best way is to get a photo of your particular bus at a particular time period and build to that. Its the only way to be accurate!

Selwyn

[Nytram]

Thanks to all those who have made suggestions which are immensely useful to someone just starting out on the Routemaster! I am content to build an RML, but there is a shortage of detail about how to add 'warm white' lighting, despite some excellent finished builds on this blog. I would like to use diffuse 1.8mm LEDs for the 'saloons' and platform to look like the originals light bulbs. 

Anyone tried to add a driver and make the cab door slide? I will have a go later! 

[Spiny]

For the warm white lighting, you will need to get the correct colour temperature LEDs. To simulate tungsten lamps look for 2700K. Lower numbers are warmer white (so 2200K looks quite orange) while higher numbers are sharper and cooler (3000K if you were building something with halogen headlights, 4000K for Xenon lamps would be about right.

[Nytram]

Hey, thanks Spiny, I'm onto it. The Revell 'bus is different for almost each modeller, because it evolved over years. The '38' is special to me, having once left my briefcase on one and had to retrieve it from Leyton Garage 'lost & found'. Phew, relief!! One tired student to and fro Clapton Pond via the Balls Pond Road, in 1965....

[Nytram]

Having read so many pieces about this build, I decided to make a tiny addition to the cab where it joins the upper level and drill holes for the advert panel edging. My kit had completely plain body sides with no marks to show where to drill! Why me? Just have to use the tiny strip fixings as a guide, I guess. 

[Nytram]

Found the marks on the inside. Need glasses, I guess. The cab was a bit distorted, though, which is disappointing. Will definitely go for root and branch rearrangement of the A frame and radiator area in front, plus a sliding drivers door.