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Annuver Ork Bommer


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This is inspirational! I may have to 'refit' an Ork Fightabomba I lashed up out of a Typhoon kit a few years back, before GW even considered such a marvellous kit!

I may be stealing- ahem, 'borrowing'- some of your ideas, Will! (Hope you don't mind... :wicked: )

Can't wait for the next instalment.

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Kitteh!

Please steal away - how could I possibly mind, that's the point of all this internet sharing after all. I stole looted the inspiration for this from Jonas, and the painting techniques from Forge World via Jonas :D :D It's been fun trying to integrate the very rough sponged work with the more traditional GW painting with highlights and shadows, but that's where the weathering is going to help. I hope.

Perhaps just tone down the teeth with some dark grey 'sponging' so it looks like they are chipped and worn?

I think you're right - sponging the teeth (and adding a few tiny metal highlights) will make a big difference, I hope that a bit of a brown filter or wash over the logos and checks will tone them down a teeny bit too.

Cheers,

Will

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Can't remember if you said you played the game, but I had a quick blast of the new edition with a mate yesterday and my Burna Bomma was awesome!

Dakka jet for me next, for sure.

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I'm afraid I'm not a playa - I did buy the 6E rulebook because it's so pretty, and I haven't had one since the first edition. I do play a bit of Space Hulk and have dabbled in Dreadfleet:

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but I've tried to stay away from the collect-a-lot games. More of a board gamer to be honest :)

Mekboy Wingnutz: "We'z sorree for da slowin' down ov work. Too menny jobz, not enuff grots. In fakt da bommer haz got a bit durty wen we wasn't lookin'"

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(Klik for bigga)

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Since last time, I did some more chipping on edges, and added an overall brown wash/filter, then a single coat of Klear to support enamel washes. Everything had a pin wash of MIG dark, mostly cleaned off again, and then patchy washes and streaks of brown and rust. I need to do a little more in that direction. I've also drybrushed a few highlights into panel corners and along edges since it was all getting a bit dark.

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Nearly ready for a matt coat and then I can do the metallics!

Will

Edited by Will Vale
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I've still got my original 'Rogue Trader' rulebook somewhere (full of errors like 'See page xx for details'). I loved the illustrations & the finished figures in White Dwarf but I just couldn't afford the miniatures as a young teen, so never really did much gaming. There wasn't much in the way of plastic kits, so building an army wasn't realistically going to happen. I still linger at the window of Games Workshop in the Westfield at St Luke's with a wistful look in my eye.

Looking really good now Will, I await the next update eagerly! :thumbsup2:

Chris

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More of a board gamer to be honest

That's fair enough - have you tried this little game? Aeronutica Imperialis - its dead quick and good fun, and the figures are great - like the one you are doing but an inch or two long (I must post some pictures. The rulebook is expensive but full of ace pictures of 40k aircraft!

I must admit I only have so much GW stuff as I run a club where I work in Ross Library, and have ended up getting sucked into the hobby again!

Cheeley - why not pop into the store and pick yourself up a box of something next time you have modeller's block - the kits now are light years ahead of the plastics of the past and usually what I consider 'quick wins' - easy to assemble, interesting to paint and fun!

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Will, this looking superb! Nicely weatherd and (ab)used without going OTT, like GW tend to do for some strange reason. I just bought my borther a war truck for his birthday and the quality of the painting on the back of the box was atrocious. I understand and appreciate the weathered look but the studio painters seem to use it to excess and there seems to be virtually no effort towards smooth colour transitions or blending any more. Shame.

By the way, those are some of the best Genestealers I've ever seen! I love the mini's in the Space Hulk box set, so well detailed and full of movement and action.

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I only just discovered this thread, this thing of yours. Rock on! Each time I've scrolled down to the next picture I'm like, WTF! I love the orkspeak too. This is just brilliant and may well turn out to influence my next build or two...

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I knew nothing of this subject until I came across this thread and mate I have to say - that is one of the best examples of painting I've seen in a long time.

Since then I have soured this site looking for more of your work and for each thread I found I have been blown away with your painting skills

I am really looking forward to seeing this (and the Yamato) completed

Maybe you should work at Weta - I think you'd fit in well there! :)

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Thanks folks, very kind of you. I like this sort of messy stage with the washes and things because it's so controllable. Bit smelly though, and the acrylics have the benefit of speed.

I feel like I should apologise for the Orky talk but it's so addictive... I'm a big fan of the Willans/Searle Molesworth books and the Orks definitely owe a debt to them :) I'm slightly concerned that I find myself lusting after an Ork dreadnaught, I really hope I don't end up collecting an army by accident!

seem to use it to excess and there seems to be virtually no effort towards smooth colour transitions or blending any more. Shame.

The current style is quite different to what was popular in the '90s isn't it? I think the studio painters are *extremely* neat, but the base/wash/layer/edge highlight is a bit monotonous and they don't seem to have got the hang of vehicles in the same way the Forge World guys have. There's a tendency in the studio models to have a lot of ragged metallic highlights on edges, brush painted, which never seem realistic. Hopefully they'll produce an official "Games Workshop Sponge Brush" and then they can recommend the same techniques as Forge World.

That said, I really like the Grey Knights vehicles - the combination of metallics, heraldry and neatness works very well there. And many of the single minis, and pretty much all the WHFB stuff is amazing.

Will

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Hopefully they'll produce an official "Games Workshop Sponge Brush"

It'll be tiny and cost... oooh, a kidney!

Agree with you though, the Forge World stuff beats the GW stuff hands down (it's all still lightyears ahead of my meagre talents though).

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Been a bit busy this weekend, Mrs. V. is away at a conference so I've been running round after Miss. V. as well as cooking dinner for friends last night and playing an epic boardgame. I am much too old for 3am bedtimes...

Luckily I did get the Dullcote on, which is always a nice point in a project. I love what it does to the paint:

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Klik for bigga

On Friday night I also tweaked some of the washes and streaks a bit, nothing too dramatic, mainly a bit more rust trailing from the wrap-around plates on the leading edges:

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"Not only dat', but we put diff'rent colourz on da sparky bitz 'for safe-tee'. Hur hur hurr..."

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You can see that I kinda forgot to do much with the washes underneath after the pin-wash.

Will

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I love the construction of the undercarriage - really orky!

This is almost there now, isn't it - keep up your superb work! :thumbsup:

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Well I did get some metallics on last night - woo hoo! I drybrushed/scrubbed Boltgun Metal or Tin Bitz as appropriate and then washed the whole lot with Agrax Earthshade, which is what was Devlan Mud before. I've heard the latter referred to as "talent in a bottle" - it lives up to the name:

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(Klik for bigger)

Is it me or are the new washes a little bit less glossy? If so, that's great but I'll need to find something else for grease stains - I used to use Devlan Mud for that.

I also started some bits in the cockpits - really not very exciting yet - and painted up the ammo in the link belts for the guns. They look a bit like lipsticks, and I need to run a tiny line of brass along the front side of the belt since I managed to paint over it with the silver. I'll wait until I'm feeling very brave...

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The engine is a bit dull still - I only washed the recessed bits, the nozzles I wanted to be fairly plain as a base for heat discolouration.

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I like how well the metallics have settled in with the other colours, it seems like a good start. What I'm not sure about now is how (and how much) to rust the metal areas and the model generally. I was assuming I'd do some more sponged paint and pigments/enamels, but I'm not sure how to merge that with the gunmetal look I have so far. I guess I'll start with the landing gear (which isn't too obvious if it turns out badly) and see how that goes first. Might also go and look at some other Ork models for inspiration :)

Cheers,

Will

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Will, I don't know if this will help or not? These two were/are gently rusting around the back of a warbird museum just down from Cape Canaveral. Might point to what orky maintenance looks like?

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Should have got some of the Thuds back end while I was about it. :(

Edited by oileanach
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Definitely useful, thanks! I hunted down some abandoned MiG images last night too, and did a bit of work on the metal areas:

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(Klik for bigga)

The guns have come out quite well for some more washes/glazes to get a bit of a gunmetal feel. They're probably still too bight and clean but I like the wide end which goes into the fairing now - those had washes of brown and orange paint carried by GW washes, which work quite well at getting an opaque matt layer which still flows into the detail. I also did some sponging with dark brown and black paint.

What I don't like are the barrels - still much too clean - and the fact that I missed the cooling jackets on the short guns and painted them like barrels! I thought I could live with it but having seen the pictures it would definitely be good to repaint those properly.

I also painted in the controls (messily) for the pilot and added some detail to the gunner's cockpit:

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I did some work on the engine too to add heat staining and rust but it needs more work - the patches of yellow glaze I added which looked nice last night are pretty bad in the light of day and need to be sanded back/painted over. The brown/blue/red looks nice though.

Will

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Spent half an hour at lunch time fixing the engine, I like it quite a bit more now. This is before (with a bit of sanding of the yellow spots)

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(Klik for bigga)

And these are after:

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I went over a couple of bad spots with black paint, then sponged on Tin Bitz (hadn't realised how useful this is!) and Scorched Brown. Then I drybrushed some more Boltgun Metal to tie things together and added highlights of Mithril Silver tinted with blue glaze. I think it still needs more of a colour gradient on the nozzle - maybe a bit more red and blue at either end?

Mekboy Wingnutz: "Job's a good 'un. Well, neerly... Dere is maybe not enuff rusty bitz, and if dere iz not enuff rusty bitz den wot is holdin' it to-gether?"

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I think it still needs more of a colour gradient on the nozzle - maybe a bit more red and blue at either end?

Some colour glazes may well work - I can you try and capture the stage by stage if you go by that route?

I went with 'black and smokey' on mine, assuming orks probably liked to leave a big cloud of soot behind them. I used graphite pencil to put a metallic sheen on the exhaust before treating with FW's soot weathering powder.

Not far away now, is it? :yahoo::speak_cool:

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I went with 'black and smokey' on mine, assuming orks probably liked to leave a big cloud of soot behind them. I used graphite pencil to put a metallic sheen on the exhaust before treating with FW's soot weathering powder.

Jonas has a point, would the engines really burn that hot and clean to give the discolouration? Having the exhaust tips looking so clean against the weathered body panels might look a bit odd, BUT having that colour gradient would look good. My mind sees a combination of the 2 effects; the the heat colouring further in where the combustion process would occur, fading out and into soot closer to exhaust tip where the combustion gases/ unburnt fuel would mix with the excess environmental oxygen at a cooler temperature and burn to produce this carbon deposit (I'd be highly surprised if Mekboy Wingnutz would have the patience to tune his machines for efficiency or any such 'oomie behaviour).

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Mekboy Wingnutz: "I duz it if it makes it go fasta!"

It's a good point in a sci-fi modelling thread when you get to the point of working out what the thing in question would really do! I agree that it's likely a sooty engine, and while I know very little about jets I was thinking that (having looked at pictures of aircraft with sooty engines) that the soot is mostly visible inside the nozzle - the exhaust is whipped away by the slip stream so fast it doesn't have time to settle on the outside. I'll definitely try and get that super-matt effect with pigments inside the nozzle and on the rear face of it. Still not sure about the outside.

I'd also like to add some soot marks from the rocket bells behind the wings - I think they might point out enough that I could locally darken the fuselage and engine behind the wing to get a nice effect.

We'll see, I'm a bit tired at the moment (lots of late work nights) so I might wait for the weekend and fine weather so I can see what I'm doing :)

Will

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Well that was a hectic weekend, lots done but not much modelling. I did find an hour on Sunday to mask up the cockpit and spray the last few things which hadn't been undercoated.

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(Klik for bigga!)

I had the presence of miind not to remove the mask straight away and so it was easy enough to drybrush and sponge the bars with Fenris Grey plus a bit of blue and some rusty colours on Sunday night. None of this is glued on yet, I still need to finish the rear gun and fit the wee grot in place.

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I'm pleased I picked this cockpit combination, I like the way it looks and you get a decent view of the minis. The clear parts are an odd combination - they're very clear, but they also have tooling marks visible so there's a bit of a Middle Ages ripple to the glass. I need to clean the tape residue off to see what it really looks like though.

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Still need to add some "functional" weathering (hinges, access points, oil etc.) and probably do a bit of work with pigments. Plus the wheels need a coat of paint! I should also think about painting up the bombs since I think they add to the overall shape - they make the plane look a bit lower and heavier.

Cheers,

Will

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And a bit more done last night. I chipped the cockpit frames where the separate pieces touch each other when closed, and around the gunner's rear frame in case he bashes it with the gun. I also did more to the gun in terms of weathering and I think it may have ended up being too much - it's rather glossy and over-washed now :( I guess I'll see if the pigments step helps. Oh yes - I also added rust to the cockpit frame rivets and most of the rivets on the wing folds. Can't decide if I need to do this everywhere or not. I think I'm leaning to "yes" at the moment though.

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(Klik for bigga)

I also added some chips where the pilot and gunner would (probably) get in, the same as the Stuka wing roots in fact. I thought the metal chips were a bit start when the rest of the aircraft is rusty so I went over them with a drybrush of Fenris Grey to add some base colour back in, and then blotched some rusty/dirty washes on as well. I think it looks OK, but maybe a bootprint would sell it better? The black stain is supposed to be oil leaking from under the metal plate, I think a bit more work is needed there.

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Lastly I put some paint on the wheels. Very dull so far, but it should get more interesting soon. I think the Scab Red was a mistake and I need to go over the hubs with Mechrite and Blood Red as per the cannon fairings:

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Question: Is it good or bad to post so many step-by-step pictures when some of the steps are very tiny? I tend to take them anyway for my own benefit, so that I can see what I've done and whether it works, needs fixing, etc. And then I think I might as well post them. But I'm not sure if that's bad etiquette or thread bumping or anything like that?

Cheers,

Will

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Will, looking great! I think you'll find you can tone down the 'glossyness' with powders, don't worry just yet. Leave it a day and come back to it, it'll be fine!

Question: Is it good or bad to post so many step-by-step pictures when some of the steps are very tiny? I tend to take them anyway for my own benefit, so that I can see what I've done and whether it works, needs fixing, etc. And then I think I might as well post them. But I'm not sure if that's bad etiquette or thread bumping or anything like that?

I can only speak for myself here, but I find the step-by-step fascinating. It's really nice to watch this come together. It's what the work in progress section is for, isn't it?

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Question: Is it good or bad to post so many step-by-step pictures when some of the steps are very tiny? I tend to take them anyway for my own benefit, so that I can see what I've done and whether it works, needs fixing, etc. And then I think I might as well post them. But I'm not sure if that's bad etiquette or thread bumping or anything like that?

Cheers,

Will

It's good. It's very good. In fact, it's great! :) If someone doesn't like the thread, there are plenty of others to read.

Not everyone is a seasoned modeller, Will. I learn something new with every one of your posts, for instance. I'm learning from the guys suggestions, too. So if anything, you're providing a service, not 'bumping' or breaking some unspoken etiquette.

Keep them coming, mate, whenever you can spare the time. :speak_cool:

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