Brass rod and Tube

[NickR]

Just about to embark on a project which will require some scratch building to which I am very new

I have bought a selection of evergreen/slaters sheets, Rods, strips etc but would like some advice on likely brass rod and tube sizes required to do 1/48 both for replicating hydraulic tubes etc but also for pinning and strengthening.

I could buy some of each size from Albion but that would prove costly and I probably wouldn't require most of it

Good supplier suggestions would also be useful please

Any help gratefully received

[Martian]

I think Albion do a slide fit selection pack in brass, they certainly do in aluminium which, at least from a detailing perspective is easier to work with. Worth asking them anyway.

If you do a search on this forum for my TSR2 thread, sorry I'm not sure how to do a link, that will give you some ideas as to what this slide fit stuiff can be used for.

Martin

Edited June 23, 2012 by martin hale

[JeffreyK]

Hi Nick,

for those applications brass rod or tube is probably not the best choice (i.e. too expensive), you'd better buy/keep those for applications where you actually need thin walled tubing.

For hydraulic and electric lines I use lead wire in various thickness (0.2mm - 1.0mm), you can get it from Paul at little-cars, or Plus Model for instance. Fine solder is also an alternative. Streched Q-tip handles make great ultra-thin tubes to make connectors to slide over the wire.

For pinning, I use cheap haberdashery pins, chopped to length with side cutters, or, when it has to be very thin, guitar string (as I play guitar I can use my used stuff, but even as a non-guitarist, you'd get probably a lifetime's supply out of a single string).

Cheers

Jeffrey

[NickR]

Thanks Martin

Have now ordered a pack from Hannants!

Had a good look through you TSR2 build thread. Wow, simply fantastic and something to aspire to. Will return to that and your ongoing Gotha WIP for useful tips and inspiration

Thanks again

I think Albion do a slide fit selection pack in brass, they certainly do in aluminium which, at least from a detailing perspective is easier to work with. Worth asking them anyway.

If you do a search on this forum for my TSR2 thread, sorry I'm not sure how to do a link, that will give you some ideas as to what this slide fit stuiff can be used for.

Martin

Thanks Jeffrey

Great advice - although I have got some brass on order now I will use it only where necessary and use your tips on lead wire in the main. The Qtip and pin tips are excellent and will definitely use them too!!!!!

Hi Nick,

for those applications brass rod or tube is probably not the best choice (i.e. too expensive), you'd better buy/keep those for applications where you actually need thin walled tubing.

For hydraulic and electric lines I use lead wire in various thickness (0.2mm - 1.0mm), you can get it from Paul at little-cars, or Plus Model for instance. Fine solder is also an alternative. Streched Q-tip handles make great ultra-thin tubes to make connectors to slide over the wire.

For pinning, I use cheap haberdashery pins, chopped to length with side cutters, or, when it has to be very thin, guitar string (as I play guitar I can use my used stuff, but even as a non-guitarist, you'd get probably a lifetime's supply out of a single string).

Cheers

Jeffrey

[viscount806x]

Just about to embark on a project which will require some scratch building to which I am very new

I have bought a selection of evergreen/slaters sheets, Rods, strips etc but would like some advice on likely brass rod and tube sizes required to do 1/48 both for replicating hydraulic tubes etc but also for pinning and strengthening.

I could buy some of each size from Albion but that would prove costly and I probably wouldn't require most of it

Good supplier suggestions would also be useful please

Any help gratefully received

Hi, I know you are probably sorted now but as you said further down the postings, it can get expensive buying too much on spec. Some small model shops do stock it. There seems to be a sort of display box arrangement with an assortment, possibly supplied to shops on request by them which can be useful to browse and buy just a couple of bits. Flying model shops and railway model shops can be good sources too. I think you might have one of the latter in York. maybe Monk Bar model shop has some. Always a stop off point for me when visiting 'Home'.

[NickR]

Thanks Viscount.

there is a flying model shop on the way into Leeds - will see what they do. The little model shop on Monk Bar is an aladins cave though isn't it!

Thanks for the advice

Hi, I know you are probably sorted now but as you said further down the postings, it can get expensive buying too much on spec. Some small model shops do stock it. There seems to be a sort of display box arrangement with an assortment, possibly supplied to shops on request by them which can be useful to browse and buy just a couple of bits. Flying model shops and railway model shops can be good sources too. I think you might have one of the latter in York. maybe Monk Bar model shop has some. Always a stop off point for me when visiting 'Home'.

[jch_in_uk]

Just about to embark on a project which will require some scratch building to which I am very new

I have bought a selection of evergreen/slaters sheets, Rods, strips etc but would like some advice on likely brass rod and tube sizes required to do 1/48 both for replicating hydraulic tubes etc but also for pinning and strengthening.

I could buy some of each size from Albion but that would prove costly and I probably wouldn't require most of it

Good supplier suggestions would also be useful please

Any help gratefully received

Remember if you want to bend tubes you will need some bending springs, other wise you will get kinks and not smooth curves.

jh

[Phil Ogden]

Remember if you want to bend tubes you will need some bending springs, other wise you will get kinks and not smooth curves.

jh

Also helps to anneal tube prior to bending. (you could even heat it bright red and let it cool!!)

[NickR]

Ooooo, didn't consider that. Will do a google search unless you can point me in the right direction

Thanks jh

Remember if you want to bend tubes you will need some bending springs, other wise you will get kinks and not smooth curves.

jh

[NickR]

Thanks Phil

Thought this was going to be easy!

Anyone know where I can find a tutorial (even a video) on how to do this??????

Also helps to anneal tube prior to bending. (you could even heat it bright red and let it cool!!)

Edited June 24, 2012 by NickR

[Phil Ogden]

Thanks Phil

Though this was going to be easy!

Anyone know where I can find a tutorial (even a video) on how to do this??????

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/deta...ubcatname=Dubro ,is good for 1/8" diameter tube (od),

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/deta...subcatname=Hand tools - K&S will work for other sizes. To prevent fine tube from kinking, try inserting solder before bending which will usually pull out afterwards quite easily but if it won't, you can melt it out as the solder will melt before the brass. For larger sizes, fill with fine sand plugging the ends with plastecine or bluetack. Easy once you know a few dodges.

[NickR]

Thanks Phil - that is really useful

[viscount806x]

Thanks Phil

Thought this was going to be easy!

Anyone know where I can find a tutorial (even a video) on how to do this??????

Those of us of a certain age learnt this at school in metalwork. You need to heat the brass to a low red heat but be careful with thin rod and tube because it can be very easily melted. The process is to heat the work and then allow it to cool as slowly as possible. 'Quenching' (cooling by putting in water) is a no-no because this has the opposite effect - it makes the metal harder. The brass will harden up again if you work it very much after annealing. The annealing process can be repeated to go back to the soft malleable condition again. This process also works nicely on etched brass parts but obviously cannot be done with pre painted items.

[NickR]

Those of us of a certain age learnt this at school in metalwork. You need to heat the brass to a low red heat but be careful with thin rod and tube because it can be very easily melted. The process is to heat the work and then allow it to cool as slowly as possible. 'Quenching' (cooling by putting in water) is a no-no because this has the opposite effect - it makes the metal harder. The brass will harden up again if you work it very much after annealing. The annealing process can be repeated to go back to the soft malleable condition again. This process also works nicely on etched brass parts but obviously cannot be done with pre painted items.

Thanks Viscount. The only metal work we did at school was to make a small turbine on a cocoa can! I think the number of "near misses" led to it going altogether!

Looking forward to practicing these skills, thanks again fellas