Bob C. Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Graham, Yes it sprays very well. I used Floquil Dio Sol as the thinner, I believe. And as I say, afterwards, spray with Metalizer sealer. This does not change the appearance of the Old Silver, and will prevent the finish from rubbing off during normal handling. I also decal over the sealer without spraying a gloss coat over it, but you may want to spray a gloss or semi-gloss to seal decals in, though I think in the past I have just recoated with the sealer. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham T Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 (edited) Just had an email back from Metalsmiths. No stocks of this colour & they are discontinuing the range due to "import difficulties". Therefore I'll give Citadel Mithril silver a go. What does it thin with? White spirit? Enamel thinners? Edited August 20, 2012 by Graham T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Kunac-Tabinor Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Just had an email back from Metalsmiths. No stocks of this colour & they are discontinuing the range due to "import difficulties". Therefore I'll give Citadel Mithril silver a go. What does it thin with? White spirit? Enamel thinners? Hi Graham - it thins with Tamiya acrylic thinners, or Future/ Klear/Quick Shine, or water, or a mix of the three. Neat Isoprop s a bit hot for it, though in the past, Ive thinned a little with tamiya first then added isoprop - whick seemed to work OK. Cheers Jonners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennings Heilig Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 (edited) Any of the non-buffing metalizer type finishes work really well for painted aluminum (okay, aluminium) or dope. Especially so if you put a coat of satin over it. The grain is very fine. BTW, I ***highly*** recommend the Talon acrylic line. They don't stink up the house, and they work like a charm. I don't know why they're not more wildly popular than they are. People seem to strugge with Alclad and primers and such. Talon recommends *against* priming, and the acrylic paint won't melt your model. Edited August 20, 2012 by Jennings Heilig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jynski Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I use Alclad Duraluminum for fabric surfaces and Alclad Aluminum with a light overspray of Alclad Polished Aluminum for metal surfaces. That's the same colors I use also. I overcoat it with Testor's Metallizer Sealer before and after decal application with good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Humbrol Metalcote Dull aluminium for the fabric areas and polished aluminium for the metal areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennings Heilig Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 For silver paint or silver dope (essentially the same thing), I always use one of the non-buffing metalizer type finishes. They have much finer grain than most silver model paint, and look much more like the real thing IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefaan Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 Hi Guys. Do any of you have copies of the RAF orders that reflects dates of when the a/c had to be painted silver before WW2? Thx Stefaan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith in the uk Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Grey primer , then Humbrol polished Aluminium , works every time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinChipmunkfan Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 What a great question and so many useful and informative suggestions. This website is full of great advice. Thank you Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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