woody37 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 So where can I buy some please? Duncan B I got mine off ebay 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Thanks Nobby. I'm loving your Javelin build by the way, very inspirational. Duncan B Thanks Duncan, Hope you find the Solar trim useful. Just about gone as far as i'm going to go with the landing gear now as i feel i've done enough to it. I noticed that wheels had some sort of tie down points on the ends of the axles so iv'e made some. Took tree attempts to get ones that i was happy with and bending them up was a little challenging, but i got there in the end! All i have to do now, is be careful i don't knock the gits off! Added more detail to the doors and worked at getting some better hinge's on them. The kit ones are a bit chunky although I've re worked the nose wheel doors hinge's by thinning them down and sanding them out using a piece of folded emery paper. I may re do these though from ali. Whats next then? Well i may make a start on the tail or go for making the air brakes. There's still the lights to make for the UC doors yet but i need a rest from the gear!!! I'm thinking you lot do as well! Thanks all! John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Nobby, how thick is this solar trim stuff? I want to add the spar caps to the Frog/Novo Hornet and find that even the thinnest plastic card is way too thick and sanding it down is a pain, especially with the number of Hornets I want to do. This solar trim looks to be ideal although I had thought of masking tape sealed in place with Johnson's kleer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 I don't know the exact thickness mate, but I used it for the fish plates on my 72nd Typhoon and Defiant if this helps. I'm presuming the detail is raised from the surface of the wing? I used it to the joint strengthening bands on the wing of the Defiant and also the flap rod covers. I also did the frame work on the canopy and turret. I use it in loads of places where you need some gentle raised details. Hope this helps Wooks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 John does this stuff need an adhesive? No not the undercrackers, the solarfilm? Talking of the undercarriage bits, bloody lovely mate. Usual excellentses applyshould i sub my underneathings to your 1/100 scale fingers I wonder... bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Work In Progress Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Bill SolarFILM is different from SolarTRIM. They are from the same manufacturer, but different products. Solarfilm is a covering material with a heat-sensitive adhesive, it is thin and light and upon application of further heat shrinks strongly. that's not what you want for static plastic models. Solartrim is a thicker, heavier, self-adhesive material. Just cut out the shape you want, peel off the backing and stick it down. That's the one you want.Both come in lots of colours. See http://www.solarfilm.co.uk/ for full details of all the company's products. They are available from just about any model shop that does flying models, whether bricks & mortar or online. If you call them - +44 (0) 1257 267418 - or email them ([email protected]) I am sure they will be able to point you at a local stickist wherever you are. Or a Google search throws up many suppliers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 thanks, just what I needed to know If we keep quiet Nobby might not notice the thread drift, get me drift I am really going to have to get some of that I have lines and panels all over that need emphasising on my present toy cheers bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Sorry Bill! I did type Solarfilm in there instead of SOLARTRIM! He's totally correct. I told you I wer rubbish at typing! Thanks for pointing that out! I couldn't live with the thought that some modeller had tried to put it on his latest pride and joy with an iron, only to end up with a puddle of molten plastic! I'm sure you'll find tons of uses for it though! Especially with the Sherpa. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 (edited) I don't know the exact thickness mate, but I used it for the fish plates on my 72nd Typhoon and Defiant if this helps. I'm presuming the detail is raised from the surface of the wing? I used it to the joint strengthening bands on the wing of the Defiant and also the flap rod covers. I also did the frame work on the canopy and turret. I use it in loads of places where you need some gentle raised details. Hope this helps Wooks! What I'm looking at is slightly raised but not too much. They seem to be quite subtle. Any advice is welcome, especially from someone of your abilities. I nabbed some plastic tape from work which seems to be similar and quite thin - possibly 5 thou - so possibly ideal. I'll have a play with a test subject at the weekend. There were reels of some really thin (ie about a mm or 2 wide) tape that we used to use in the old paste up days (I work for the local newspaper) but I've a feeling they got slung out ages ago, which is a pity as they would have been ideal. Edited January 23, 2013 by The wooksta V2.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 (edited) Sorry Bill! I did type Solarfilm in there instead of SOLARTRIM! He's totally correct. I told you I wer rubbish at typing! Thanks for pointing that out! I couldn't live with the thought that some modeller had tried to put it on his latest pride and joy with an iron, only to end up with a puddle of molten plastic! I'm sure you'll find tons of uses for it though! Especially with the Sherpa. no worries mon ami I am a daft old b*gger it's true but even I might (did) have thunk twice at ironing the stuff to those blimmin wings Sherpa has loads of raised strengtheners all over it, sounds like S-film (bugger... I mean S---TRIM) will be ideal Off to my local flying model shop on Thursday (he shuts Wednesday ) to pick some up for an experiment session cheers both bill Edited January 23, 2013 by perdu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Thanks for the tips about the SolarTrim. On their web site, it says it can be applied wet, similar to a water-slide decal. They even recommend that for larger, more complex shapes. Have you ever tried that? I was thinking of using this for my 1:72 F-22 kit. I've got the Big Ed set, and they supply all those odd raised shapes, that you see on the fuselage surface, as photoetch pieces. I think this will be difficult to properly adhere on curved surfaces, plus I think it's too thick. I was thinking of using the Eduard bits as a template to cut out pieces of the SolarTrim. Applying the resulting pieces wet might provide better control of position and orientation. Assuming of course that the SolarTrim is thinner than the photoetch. Thoughts? Cheers, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shalako Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hi Nobby, With the work you have been doing on this old Airfix kit, I'm seriously thinking of giving you all my Matchbox kits in order to see them finished as they deserve to be!!! Fantastic work mate. Can't wait to see it finished!!! Keep up the good work. Cheers Sernak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thankyousam Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) Thanks from me for making me aware of Solar Trim and for this excellent and inspiring build thread. I picked up some Solar Trim from Antics in Cardiff the other day. I have some 1:24 car tyres which need a white band around them. It's been impossible to mask or paint them to a reasonable finish, so I think this stuff along with a compass cutter will solve my problem. Edited January 25, 2013 by thankyousam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 I've found that on very small scale, it's adhesive properties aren't always great, I think the idea of applying wet works well for large surface areas, but would be interesting to try it wet, say on turret framing out of curiosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Thanks for the tips about the SolarTrim. On their web site, it says it can be applied wet, similar to a water-slide decal. They even recommend that for larger, more complex shapes. Have you ever tried that? I was thinking of using this for my 1:72 F-22 kit. I've got the Big Ed set, and they supply all those odd raised shapes, that you see on the fuselage surface, as photoetch pieces. I think this will be difficult to properly adhere on curved surfaces, plus I think it's too thick. I was thinking of using the Eduard bits as a template to cut out pieces of the SolarTrim. Applying the resulting pieces wet might provide better control of position and orientation. Assuming of course that the SolarTrim is thinner than the photoetch. Thoughts? Cheers, Bill Hi Bill, Yes I've used the water trick to apply it to my RC models. It works a treat. I would say that you need to add a tiny bit of liquid soap or washing up liquid to the water though to break the surface tension of the water so that it does not form into droplets. I would have thought though, that owing to the pieces been small, you wouldn't have too much trouble positioning them. I would have said its thinner as well and yes, it'll even bed down on to compound curves pretty well as well. Hi Nobby, With the work you have been doing on this old Airfix kit, I'm seriously thinking of giving you all my Matchbox kits in order to see them finished as they deserve to be!!! Fantastic work mate. Can't wait to see it finished!!! Keep up the good work. Cheers Sernak Thanks mate for the offer, but i'm mowed out with kits as it is, so i'll pass on that!! Thanks from me for making me aware of Solar Trim and for this excellent and inspiring build thread. I picked up some Solar Trim from Antics in Cardiff the other day. I have some 1:24 car tyres which need a white band around them. It's been impossible to mask or paint them to a reasonable finish, so I think this stuff along with a compass cutter will solve my problem. Hey, thats probably a good idea! Put on using the wet method i think it'd work. If it doesn't though it'll make great masking for the car jobs! Here's a few thoughts on using Solartrim. If your going to use as a masking medium especially over a paint surface make sure you you "de stick" it a little by sticking it to your fingers a couple of times. It's not too clever if you pull that nice new paint job off! Use it on canopy's without "De sticking" and use a cock tail stick to get in to the corners of the frame work. Before painting, use Solarfilms etch primer but if you can use some fine emery paper to rough it a little, it takes paint fine. If you want to draw patterns on it, for lets say masks, use matt clear varnish, then it's easier to draw on. Hope this answers some of your questions on using Solartrim guys. If i come up with anything else, i'll let you know! Well, i'll be going now as i've started to do some cutting on the Jav so soon as i have any interesting pics, i'll put them on! I have done the lights and brackets for the gear legs now and i'll show them later! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 I've found that on very small scale, it's adhesive properties aren't always great, I think the idea of applying wet works well for large surface areas, but would be interesting to try it wet, say on turret framing out of curiosity. Did you de grease first? I use a cotton bud dipped in a little white spirit on normal plastic, but for canopys, i use alcohol or Tamiya X20 thinners. The wheels were de greased before i stuck the Solartrim on and i've had no trouble. Even when i had to bend a curve into it like i did with the bottom of the Typhoon canopy, it hasn't moved. The lines on the front tire are very fine and the ones on the sides were stretched round and they have not moved. TBH, i wouldn't bother with water for the turrets or canopy frames. Just make sure you de grease first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Progress! Got quite a bit done yesterday as interruptions were kept to a minimum. Amazing how much can be done without people constantly knocking on the door! I said i wasn't going to bore you with the landing gear again, but here's a pic of the light brackets i made for the landing lights, so i hope you'll forgive me! After the slow progress so far, yesterday felt like i was modelling on steroids! I'd already cut the air brake opens out a couple of days ago. I started out with the Tamiya scriber but felt it was taking too long so i got the Dremel type tool out and chewed them out with that, finishing of with a file. That was that job sorted. Next butchery was that anorexic rear fuz! I cut it at a marked panel line that i'm presuming that is what Gloster would have used to update the real plane, as the back end on the full sized was removable for maintenance and engine swaps. Seems logical! The Air intakes i decided to take a little time with as i wanted to reduce the amount of filling i would run into if i'd just trusted to the way of fixing in the instructions. I cleaned out the location lips just behind the intake lips with a blade so that there was a more positive fit and sanded the edges of the intake tubes so they fitted in better. There was some locating pins on the sides of the intake tubes but these were as good as useless, so they were cut off. I used tube cement to glue the intakes so that i had a little excess run out at the join thereby filling most of the bottom gap. I put the top half of the fuz on, then with the handle of a paint brush, aligned the intake tubes top and bottom, to the intake lips. Some scrap plastic card keeps them in place and provides some strength for when i come to finishing them. It should minimize the work i need to do to them and hopefully they wont look too bad. I remembered to put the nose weight in as well! Actually, i wrote it on the insides of the nose so i wouldn't. because i have forgot in the past! Two 5G weights should stop it from being a tail sitter! Whilst the intakes were drying out I took the razor saw to the tailplane. Just need to fill the voids left with some bits of plastic card. After the intakes were sufficiently dry, it was time to put the cockpit tub in place then put the top on. I now have something that looks like a Javelin! Test fitting revealed lots of miss matching of mating surfaces so out came the super glue! I tacked it at the places where it fitted ok then went round the joints squeezing and holding then putting a drop in, letting it set, then moving on, I always sand the the mating surfaces of my builds much like you would with a vac kit so that they are as flat as i can get them. It isn't such a problem with the newer kits but iv'e found even the old stuff joins a lot better using this method cutting out the amount of filler you have to use. I always cut locating tabs off things as well, like the tabs on the wing tips as i think they always get in the way!. I was able to sand the mating surfaces with my balsa block with some garnet paper and got a joint that would do Tamiya proud! There are still some little ridge's, but very little filler will be needed, same as the fuz joints. I've found Garnet paper better than wet and dry as it doesn't seem to clog as easy when used dry. It seems to "cut" cleaner as well. As you can see, i don't think i'll be using as much filler with this as i thought! Yay!!! Pleased with how the pit looks in it as well! Still a little work to do on the front coaming and the back of the rear seat but i'm happy how it's going. I'll be making a start next on that bottom end, so that should be interesting! Thanks for looking! John 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I think I am going to fall out with you young chap... NOW I have to buy a blooming model I thought I'd done with, as if I didn't have enough on my plate There I was looking at Googleyimagery for vortex generator blades (or as they'd have it with this kit vortex generator bricks) and i found a picture of the machine I built years ago, lovely 85sqn white hexagon on red and black checkers. I made my own transfers for that, transfers, you can tell how long ago that was. I turned the jetpipes from steel at work in the toolroom, lovely thin steel tubes both. Still got one in a box somewhere, saw it last year. So now I gotta do the darned thing again, with vortex blades, 2 milion vortex blades... And its all your fault oh yes, your model n i c e Are you going to scribe or leave alone? b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I think I am going to fall out with you young chap... , NOW I have to buy a blooming model I thought I'd done with, as if I didn't have enough on my plate... And its all your fault He has that effect on people, I have a FROG Javelin that I bought on the strength of this thread, and when he did his Defiant the same thing happened there! Nice work Nobby, it has cheered up a miserable chap that has gone down with Man Flu (apparantly it has been scientificaly proven that it does really exist). Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David H Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 That is very impressive work, John. I have seen the kit myself and i have a keen appreciation for what you're doing to bring it up to "contemporary" standards. I think i know the answer to this already, but after you sliced off the tailplanes, are you just filling in the cavity by ramming in strips and thick C/A, or are you gonna laminate a piece of .010-.015 sheet to the butt end and just sand the edges flush? Curious, david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Cheers lads! Little update but no pics as I'm having trouble with internet connectivity at the moment! Everytime I try to upload the connection drops! I've started the work needed on the tail end and it seems to be going ok. I've cut the elevators from the tailplanes as I've noticed that they too hang down when the plane is parked. This extra work means that I have to make some hinge points but it'll be worth the extra work. I'm not able to put as much time in to the build as I'd like at the moment, but I am getting there so don't be thinking I've given up on it and letting you all hang! Soon as the internet is sorted there will be pics and something more substantial. John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 OMG, I have just caught up, what an amazing build, brilliant work, looks absolutely amazing. Can't wait to see more photos. Was also having connectivity problems earlier too. Thanks for sharing All the best Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canberra Fan Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 John, This really is an outstanding example of model making, your attention to detail is awesome. My only question is what is your reference materials? CF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Very good work.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris G 29 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I'm really enjoying this thread. Some real ingenuity and skill fabricating the parts to enhance the kit, especially given the scale. Absolutely fantastic. Great work Nobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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