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ALbatros DV - revell 1/48 ( ex Eduard )


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How did you do the buckles?

eylets ar made from fine copperwire out of electric cables, twisted around a 0,3 mm drilshaft. Buckles are ( Albion ) hollow brass tubes 0,4 mm, drilled out to 0,3 mm to receive the wire 2 times. used wire is fishing line 0,12 mm

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Sorry to be joining in on this thread late -

I'm really impressed if this is your first WW1 plane - your turnbuckles are very good and very effective.

Well done on an excellent build!

Dave

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thnx all for the encouragement. Actually I lied because of before this one I've build the Fokker DRI ( Revell ex Eduard ), but I don't consider that one as for real because of the lack of rigging :P

I saw this way of rigging on this site http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/ and wanted to try if I could do so

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was a mixture : the green is right out of the can " tamiya cockpit green " , as wingnut wings ( yes, I relied on them ) told me to use. The purple is a mixture, can't recall right now, but then again, WNW will give ya the right answer

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was a mixture : the green is right out of the can " tamiya cockpit green " , as wingnut wings ( yes, I relied on them ) told me to use. The purple is a mixture, can't recall right now, but then again, WNW will give ya the right answer

Cheers, thanks for that.

I've already downloaded the WNW instruction booklet, ready for use when I start my Eduard Albatros.

Nick

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Greetings Chris,

I hope you don't take this as a deep critisim. Here is a bit from a review I did of this mold.

". . .Eduard pulled another minor faux paux by molding the retainer stud or propeller hub (PP A 9 & 15) on the wrong face of the prop boss. I personally like scratchbuilding my kit propellers from light and dark woods. I have also learned to paint the laminations with convincing effect. Most Albatros fighters were equipped with the light and dark laminated propellers. Carefully check the aircraft profile your modeling to choose the right propeller. Don't limit your choices to the Eduard instructions. The D.V both used both types of propellers that have been offered with in the kit. The propeller parent company determined the paddle profile of the propeller (it was their trademark) while the engine application determined its pitch and length. So both profiles could be seen on either the D.V or the D.Va. But with different pitches because of the different horse power of the installed motor. . ."

Checking images carefully you can see the leading edge of the prop should be curved in this example. You do seem to be on top of the rigging. And the water tower to the top wing radiator appears missing.

IMG_4426.jpg

Note how the spinner and the prop base don't match up as it should.

IMG_4424.jpg

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Hi Jack, you've got me

I know bout the shortcomings :blush: , but as for my first WWI attempt I'm happy I brought it this far. Had to spent some work on the spinner, it did not fit at all, this was the closest I could get without ruining. I even know the wheelstruts are too short, I will be building another one in the future and replace those wrong struts by the Pheonmodels'.

The water tower to the topwing indeed is missing, after assembling everything I could find no way to get to it anymore, lot o things were in the way, another thing I take with me to a next build.

thnx for your input

grtz

C

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I've done both versions offered by Revell kit and used Citadel for the camo and the silver marking options (I can hear the rivet counters gasping in horror) despite having the correct Xtracolour enamels. At the end of the day it looked like an Albatros. Didn't particularly enjoy building it though. I had a bit of a tizzy fit with the propellor as well. The Oeffag 153 on the other hand... Thats a differnt story. Anyway you've done your first WWI aircraft, well done. Taking the time with the turn buckles is to be commended. I'm generally too lazy to bother

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