EZ Line

[Epeeman]

All,

I managed to find a UK supplier for this elasticated material which I am hoping to use to rig my Albie. I ordered fine (comes available in 'fine' and 'heavy' gauge) as this is what WNW recommend in 1:32 scale. The product should making rigging a whole lot easier and has a lot of 'stretch' to it.

Two questions please to anybody who has used this material before to rig a biplane in 32nd scale:

1. The line is charcoal coloured - could I leave in this colour or should I paint to say a steel colour

2. This line looks hair fine to the naked eye - I am worried now that it is too fine. Looking on the manufacturer's website it clearly states that the line in fine will become 'lost' to a dark background. As I say, looking at the WNW website they clearly show use of the fine grade. However, looking at the photographs, the line looks a lot thicker than it actually is. This could be where perspective is lost a bit in the pictures.

Any thoughts on whether this is really suitable for rigging in this scale - would painting it make the line appear larger to the eye?

Dave

[Graham T]

I'm using the fine stuff as we speak (although I am not literally using it as we speak, nor are we actually speaking!) on my Ninak & to be frank I do think it's a little too fine & I might try the heavier stuff on the Re8 & Bristol Fighter when I come to do them. That said, it's really easy to use, even for me in my second attempt at biplane rigging (I used nylon monofilament on my recent Woodcock). I haven't considered painting it. I'll try & upload some pics tomorrow.

[Graham T]

Here's what I mean. Actually, it looks a lot heavier in the photo than in the flesh!

[Epeeman]

Thanks for showing me that Graham -

Very useful and helpful. Looks alright actually. What I have decided for my Albie model is to use 2lb fishing line as this line always helps to reinforce the wings when assembled and makes for a stronger 'lock up'. I may use some of this EZ line in areas where strength not required, e.g. cables to the ailerons where I don't want to much pull in this area. I intend to fully use this EZ line on my WNW Pfalz DXII as I think this will make rigging a lot easier where lozenge decals are used on the wings.

Your model looking really good by the way.

Regards

Dave

[Graham T]

Thanks for showing me that Graham -

Very useful and helpful. Looks alright actually. What I have decided for my Albie model is to use 2lb fishing line as this line always helps to reinforce the wings when assembled and makes for a stronger 'lock up'. I may use some of this EZ line in areas where strength not required, e.g. cables to the ailerons where I don't want to much pull in this area. I intend to fully use this EZ line on my WNW Pfalz DXII as I think this will make rigging a lot easier where lozenge decals are used on the wings.

Your model looking really good by the way.

Regards

Dave

You are right, the main problem with ezeeline is that it imparts no strength to the model so everything "flexes" a little. Makes for some "squeeky bum" moments during handling as I'm discovering now!

[Jennings Heilig]

I have some, but I haven't used it. I'm afraid that like all elastic materials, eventually it will go slack. Especially so if it's applied to a model under tension. There's just no way it's not eventually going to loosen up. I does look good though.

J

[GEEBEE Z]

I've used a fishing line called Maxima Chameleon,2 lb strain,0.12 mm,and it's excellent.Also a lot cheaper for a reel than Ezee line.

[pte1643]

I've used a fishing line called Maxima Chameleon,2 lb strain,0.12 mm,and it's excellent.Also a lot cheaper for a reel than Ezee line.

That's what I've got too.

0.1-ish is about right for 48th scale, gives a size of approx 5mm in real life.

[gcn]

I've used a fishing line called Maxima Chameleon,2 lb strain,0.12 mm,and it's excellent.Also a lot cheaper for a reel than Ezee line.

but it isn't stretchy like ez line.

EZ line is expensive and I've never used it so I couldn't commment on it, you can buy starter packs for just over a £1 from I think models r go. I have used knit in elastic with is a flexible thread that is much cheaper than EZ line and likes super glue much better than fishing line. The downside with it is trying to double thread it back through a brass barrel but to my mind that isn't necessary, but as has been said it doesn't add the strength to the model that fishing line does.

[GEEBEE Z]

but it isn't stretchy like ez line.

EZ line is expensive and I've never used it so I couldn't commment on it, you can buy starter packs for just over a £1 from I think models r go. I have used knit in elastic with is a flexible thread that is much cheaper than EZ line and likes super glue much better than fishing line. The downside with it is trying to double thread it back through a brass barrel but to my mind that isn't necessary, but as has been said it doesn't add the strength to the model that fishing line does.

Theres only so much stretch you can put on an elastic thread,as the more its stretched the thinner it gets.You dont get that with fishing line,also,I find the maxima takes superglue very well,better than most others I've used.

[deecee]

Come on guys, you spend £100 or so on a WNW kit, or goodness knows how much on aftermarket stuff but you're fussing about £10 for EZ Line!!

The rigging is the most important part of the finished item - it makes or breaks the final appearance. You need something good, something of quality - and EZ Line is it.

I love the stuff. Far better than elastic or wire or fishing line. The beauty is in the stretch. So long as it is under tension the line will always remain straight. You can apply a small amount of tension or pull it quite tight (within reason) and it is very tolerent of knocks.

You can use this tension to vary the width of the 'wires'. What is good about it too is the fact that it has a flat cross-section. More obvious in the heavy grade, but still there in the fine grade. Be careful when applying it and do not let it twist, because you can notice it and it will spoil the appearance. Get the flat section to lie with the airflow as in the real aircraft. When stretched the charcoal colour becomes lighter and resembles in my opinion a dull/tarnished steel. Quite effective. I wouldn't paint it, but you could try I suppose. Let me know what happens. Enamels or Acrylics or something else?

Now I have to say that I model primarily in 1/72 and the fine grade is beautiful for this scale. I am surprised WNW recommend fine grade for 1/32 scale. Maybe for the control cables, but for flying and landing wires their flat section shows better in the heavy grade.

Incidentally, the more developed aircraft use a variety of gauges for their rigging.

I've got a genuine Rigging Diagram for the Airco DH 2. It details the various wires/cables and where they're used.

RAF Wires - 1/4 BSF; 2BA; 4BA

Cables - 10cwt; 15cwt ; 20cwt; 30cwt; 50cwt.

The RAF wire will be flat and the cables will be round. That's 8 different gauges!

I would have thought that in 1/32 you could show some differences.

I have never yet read of any modeller representing this in their model. It's usually "I use 2lb fishing line" or "I used the thread that Aeroclub sells", but never different types. I am aware of the etched accessories to represent flat wires - these may show different widths, I don't know.

I'm not quite sure why you are worrying about the rigging bringing rigidity to the model. In reality that's what it's for, but on a model it is to resemble the real thing. A model is secure enough in itself if it's constructed correctly. You should not need to strap it up. And if there is any movement then EZ Line will move with it - it will never show slackness unless it wasn't tensioned enough in the first place.

I can understand people's reluctance to try it because it is £10 a time and if you can't get on with it then it's wasted. I didn't know that you could buy sample lengths - that would be worth a try.

This topic has come up several times before. If you are interested here are some links:

LINK

LINK2

It's hard to judge how long it will last, but it is not elastic, it's a modern product with exceptional properties. I would guess a lifetime!

Give it a go.

If anyone has used different wires/threads/ elastic/ etc on the same model I would be interested to know.

Happy modelling!

deecee

[Jennings Heilig]

So long as it is under tension the line will always remain straight.

Which is precisely my point. At some point in the future, by the nature of an elastic substance, the elasticity will diminish. Just like your worn out underwear where the elastic waist band stretches out. Elastic substances aren't elastic forever. And once the elasticity of the EZ Line starts to diminish, it won't be tight any longer, and your wires will sag.

OTOH, monofilament fishing line (or invisible thread, which is the same thing) has a *lot* less elasticity in it. Once you pull it taut it will pretty much stay that way forever. And if for some reason it does sag, passing a heat source near it will snap it taut again in a heartbeat.

I'm not saying don't use EZ Line. I'm just saying there's a very good possibility your work won't last as long as you might wish.

J

[gcn]

Just like your worn out underwear where the elastic waist band stretches out.

J

That's just too many pies

[euskera]

I tried using EZ Line on my WNW Fee. Hated the look and the lack of structual strength imparted. I will be going back to the "Des" method of using Maxima Chameleon Monofilament and brass sleeves. I just trust it more.

[Graham T]

Which is precisely my point. At some point in the future, by the nature of an elastic substance, the elasticity will diminish. Just like your worn out underwear where the elastic waist band stretches out. Elastic substances aren't elastic forever. And once the elasticity of the EZ Line starts to diminish, it won't be tight any longer, and your wires will sag.

OTOH, monofilament fishing line (or invisible thread, which is the same thing) has a *lot* less elasticity in it. Once you pull it taut it will pretty much stay that way forever. And if for some reason it does sag, passing a heat source near it will snap it taut again in a heartbeat.

I'm not saying don't use EZ Line. I'm just saying there's a very good possibility your work won't last as long as you might wish.

J

Unless you place the line under a geat amount of tension, I really dont think this will be an issue for many years!

[Epeeman]

Judging by the latest threads here, I seem to have opened up a can of worns - sorry, folks, not my intention!

In the past (before I joined up to Britmodeller) I tried various materials. Towards the end, found some black elastic material (still have some in with my model bits and bobs box) which worked a treat. Can't remember the name of the material but is set really quick with CA glue, was a doddle to use and was cheap - about £1.30 per small reel. The only draw back - the gauge of the thread was too thick - something I only found out after joining Britmodeller so have stopped using it.

The other thing was, under (slight) tension, it still added strength to the model and resisted any rough handling. Hence the reason I was dead keen on trying out this EZ Line. My main problem with it is that (to my eye) it seems really too fine for 32nd scale. Hence reason I decided to rig my WNW Albie with fishing line - but will be trying out the EZ line on the cables to ailerons to see how it comes out. I will have to paint it though to match in with the colour of the rest.

I have ordered a WNW Pfalz DXII. Once I start work on that, I intend to use use the EZ line apart from on the landing gear where I will still use standard fishing line. This is an area on these models that really benefits from a bit of additional strength. I also have a Roden 32nd scale SE5a which I am tempted to build to also try out the EZ line.

Dave

[The Loggie]

G'Day Epeeman. Different riggers prefer different media & all will have an opinion on other media. But that's life.

I use EZ-Line to rig, and I prefer the white colour as it is nearer to silver than charcoal or green. It's disadvantage of not imparting structural strength to the struts is exceeded by its forgiving of being snagged or bumped because if its elasticity.

When I rig, I position the EZ-Line, then the struts (dry-fitted to the top wing) then I finally fit the top wing.

EZ-Line is MY preferred rigging medium. I will not bad-mouth others if they prefer to use something else - and neither should other modellers.

George, out.....................

[Old Man]

I use this stuff extensively, Sir, in 1/72:

Not sure I would recommend it for 1/32. The stuff has a 'ribbon' character; it is wider than it is thin. It does not show up appreciably in the 'fine' stuff I use in 1/72, but can catch the eye in the thicker size. Unfortunately it is not pronounced enough to try using it as 'raf-wire'.

I find the stuff does, by its tension, add some structural strength to models. The wing cell of the Farman above, for example, was extremely wobbly when rigging started, and pretty rigid when it was complete.

[Epeeman]

Thanks for your thoughts on this rigging material.

Lovely model you have made there - was this one from a kit?

Dave

[Old Man]

Thanks for your thoughts on this rigging material.

Lovely model you have made there - was this one from a kit?

Dave

Hope it helped, Sir: I noticed no one had actually described the stuff, and that 'ribbon' element is an important characteristic. One other thing you should know is that the stuff is a sort of bundle of smaller strands. It is possible to have one end only partly anchored, and see the line split a little, with an un-stretched bit hanging off one side. You have to replace the line then.

One thing you might think about is guitar strings. There is a fine grade of E-string that measures .008", in high tempered steel. In 1/32 this scales to a bit over a quarter inch, and a lot of continental rigging cable measured 6mm. Straight stiff wire can be cut to size and put in place. This method indeed does not add much strength, though, by all accounts I have read. I have done some experiments with .004" stiff wire in my 1/72, and it is working its way into the rotation, though so far only for short length, like tail bracings or cabane wires.

Glad you liked the Farman. It is scratch-built.