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Roden 1:72 Sopwith F1 Camel


Epeeman

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All,

Hope I'm not starting to become a bore - apologies if I am!!

Just completed this evening this build of a Roden kit of the Sopwith Camel which I have been running alongside my WNW Albatros build whilst bits were setting/drying, etc - sad I know. Never really sure whether I should post these in 'Ready for inspection' but as it is WW1 related plumped for here to display. This follows on from my recent of building the roden 'ships camel' and the experienced gained from that. Not a perfect build, but built to the very best of my (limited) ability.

What does everybody think?

Dave

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That's an ace little Camel.

Like that a lot.

I STILL haven't got round to rigging my 48th scale Eduard one yet.

I used Vallejo 887 Brown-Violet for PC-10, and it looks pretty much the same colour as yours.

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Thank you all for the kind comments - appreciated.

As regards PC10 colour, this is my own mix of dark green and brown (brush painted with Revell 'aqua colours') and just judged by eye until I thought it looked a reasonable match. I never get hooked up over 'correct' shades as I know WW1 aircraft colours are often disputed anyway. Rigging in this scale is very fiddly - especially aircraft that were heavily braced like the Camel. I now use invisible mending thread (tricky in itself as it is on a cotton type reel which means the thread is really coiled up when cut from reel. This makes threading through all the pre-drilled holes difficult) in this scale and then painted anthracite grey.

Dave

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Nice one!

I particularly like the linen effect underneath. Could you tell me...

i) how you achieved the shading effect between the ribs

ii) how you applied the weathering in such a way that it seems to pick up the fabric 'weave'.

Cracking build!

Will

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Thank you again for all your kind words, folks -

Steve - yes, the cabane struts are a little long which results in a slight upper wing bow when it should be straight. In the past, I have tried shortening the struts themselves or have drilled out the location holes (all you get with the kit are some little dimples which are useless to seat struts) a bit deep. This worked on my last build (Roden Ship's Camel) but I managed to twist top wing alignment out slightly. This time, drilled out cabane strut location holes but not too deep. I then carefully lined up the front two first with locating holes in top wing. Once these had set, did the same with the rear two. Incidently, for some odd reason, Roden do not mold location holes for the rear cabane struts. You then have to drill out some yourself. Luckily, I had the ships camel to hand so could take measurements from that as that one has the location holes. By getting front lined up, it was then not too difficult to ensure top wing is all correctly aligned with lower wing just with good old mark one eyeball! I do wonder though (I've built a few of the Roden Camel versions now) if the real problem is with the lower wing. As it comes, the lower wing is not a poor fit - it does not fit full stop! I therefore go to the trouble of carefully trimming, filing and shaping this wing so that it not only fits in the slot, but also sits deep so that it is flush with fuselage. If you don't do this, the fuselage is a bit proud of the lower wing. However, by me setting it deep, I wonder if it then means the cabanes are now too long.

Will - as regards shading on the wings - all my models are brush painted only. Therefore, not so easy to use tricks like pre-shading (although it can work with brush painting, but does not show up as well and is difficult to achieve a rough shade pattern) if you spray paint your models. So, what I do is use light and dark shades of the base colour. E.g. if using (as I did here) silk matt beige (Revell) paint, try slightly, very slightly darkening this colour either with a brown of dark grey. I then paint into the recess either side of the molded rib. Once this is done, I then highlight the upper, exposed, rib surface with a (again) very slight lightening up of the colour using white.

I hope that makes sense! Recently, have been experimenting (once all the above done) with some dry brushed (paint barely on rough brush) dark shade such 'dark earth' to give a bit more of a weathered effect.

Apologies for the long explanations.

Regards all

Dave

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