Parabat Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Wow, Seriously good looking paintwork, looks the biz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 great work on the camo mottling looks A1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Tim, I like it. Toning and some weathering will bring it all together. My mottle always looked "just sprayed on". Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoohoo Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Like the others have said, your paintwork looks amazing! will be happy if mine turns out half as well, how do you get the mottling so neat as its not something I have had much experience with yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Wow,Seriously good looking paintwork, looks the biz. Cheers, it looks better now that the paint has dried fully as I was unsure about it last night. great work on the camo mottling looks A1 Cheers Mick. Tim,I like it. Toning and some weathering will bring it all together. My mottle always looked "just sprayed on". Regards Yes i'll be applying some filters over it to blend everything together before the weathering starts. Like the others have said, your paintwork looks amazing! will be happy if mine turns out half as well, how do you get the mottling so neat as its not something I have had much experience with yet? Cheers Stu, I practice mottling everytime I use my airbrush, its surprising just how thin you can go with the paint. What I normally do is just quickly dip a small brush in the paint and then stir it in the thinners that are in the airbrush cup. I use around 10-15psi and keep the airbrush around 10-20mm away from the job, you need to watch carefully as you build the paint up gradually so plenty of light is best I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Just had a reminder of the 1/32nd model on Vintage Eagle website . your mottling looks to be spot on in density and shade. This at the exciting stage ...Lets see the yellow/ white bands soon. Alistair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Just had a reminder of the 1/32nd model on Vintage Eagle website . your mottling looks to be spot on in density and shade. This at the exciting stage ...Lets see the yellow/ white bands soon.Alistair The book you get with the decal sheet gives good views plus there is the large profile in the main book so we both had good references. Thats a cracking build on their web site, although I don't like the finish, its to shiny for my liking. You'll have to wait a little longer before you see the RVD bands as snow and the cold stopped play today, I do all my spraying in a shed. Hopefully I'll crack on with it tomorrow. I've got some SAC white metal u/c legs on the way to me as its surprising how much weight the kit has gained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 The main paint work is now finished. The mottles have been blended in a little with a misting of RLM82. The wings are RLM81/82. The wear on the wing roots was done with AKI worn effects (hair spray method) Finally a bit more work with the Alclad for the NMF wing under surfaces. This is my first use of Alclad and was worried about making a fudge of things! I've used 3 shades, Aluminium, Dark Aluminium and Magnesium. I feel like i've painted my self into a corner now though. I would have painted the wheel wells and masked those of as a rule but due to all the p/e in there I didn't want to risk pinging them off so now i've got to risk masking over the Alclad, which i've read can be risky, still it'll be easier to re spray than to re fix p/e. Or then again I could even have the wells NMF as well, decisions decisions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlemaster Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Tim go with Rlm 02 for the wheel wells as it will make them stand out against the nat metal . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Tim go with Rlm 02 for the wheel wells as it will make them stand out against the nat metal . Alistair, I have done,, and pleased to say the masking hasn't lifted any Alclad, phew! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Great work, mate - Alclad is the best for resisting masking tape. She looks a beauty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Great work, mate - Alclad is the best for resisting masking tape. She looks a beauty. Cheers Andy, I take it that you use Alclad quite a bit being a fan of all things American, do you klear over Alclad before adding washes etc and then matt coat over it or leave things as it is? I know some do, so don't. I guess it comes down to what ever method suits you as is always the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Cheers Andy, I take it that you use Alclad quite a bit being a fan of all things American, do you klear over Alclad before adding washes etc and then matt coat over it or leave things as it is? I know some do, so don't. I guess it comes down to what ever method suits you as is always the case. In general I do gloss coat - particularly if I am going to wash/weather panel lines. Once the wash is done (and personally, I don't tend to do washes that much on NMF) I seal it with another coat - my rule is gloss for 'out-of-theatre' and matt for 'in-theatre'. Hope that helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpc7676 Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Lovely job thus far, interested to see how this one finishes up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Lovely work Tim, as per usual. I love Alclad, though I have some that's 13+ years old and more durable than the current stuff. In general, Alclad over primer, Klear to seal it. Don't mask Alclad with that Trimaster tape you can get for modelling. It can rip the skin off you! You can apply Alclad straight onto plastic as long as it won't either be handled or masked. When I have done WW2 NMF's I have always matt varnished it to give it that worn look. And yes, Gunze paints are great. Thanks to you and Karl, I'm a convert who won't be looking back to my old acrylics, apart from a few Tamiya shades. Keep up the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 In general I do gloss coat - particularly if I am going to wash/weather panel lines. Once the wash is done (and personally, I don't tend to do washes that much on NMF) I seal it with another coat - my rule is gloss for 'out-of-theatre' and matt for 'in-theatre'.Hope that helps! Andy, yes cheers for that, looks like thats the way to go as Andy L does the same. Lovely job thus far, interested to see how this one finishes up. Thanks Kev. Although perhaps I don't deserve the praise! Lovely work Tim, as per usual. I love Alclad, though I have some that's 13+ years old and more durable than the current stuff. In general, Alclad over primer, Klear to seal it. Don't mask Alclad with that Trimaster tape you can get for modelling. It can rip the skin off you! You can apply Alclad straight onto plastic as long as it won't either be handled or masked. When I have done WW2 NMF's I have always matt varnished it to give it that worn look.And yes, Gunze paints are great. Thanks to you and Karl, I'm a convert who won't be looking back to my old acrylics, apart from a few Tamiya shades. Keep up the good work! Cheers Andy, looks like you treat Alclad the same as Andy C. I'm glad I haven't got to go through with masking that wheel well again just to Klear that alone. I'd quizzed Karl last Sunday about using the stuff. I can also report that the Mr Color "levelling thinners" are superb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Tim, Pure class! Looks superb, the subtlety of it all is impressive. Nice one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksdad Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Excellent work Tim. I can't wait to see this crossing the finish line. Keep up the good work. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 great use of Alcald wheelbays will look great in 02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turnerdad Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Great paint job, deftly done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 That's a great job Tim...congrats. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Tim,Pure class! Looks superb, the subtlety of it all is impressive. Nice one. Cheers, its starting to take shape now I think. Excellent work Tim. I can't wait to see this crossing the finish line. Keep up the good work. Steve Cheers Steve, still a way to go though although i'd like to think all the hard graft is behind me now. great use of Alcald wheelbays will look great in 02 Thanks Mick, the wheel wells are now finished, in 02 as are the inner surfaces of the flaps. Great paint job, deftly done. Cheers, I was unsure of it when I first applied the mottles but these things take time to build up I suppose. Its certainly unusual to see Antons finished in these colours, they are normally found on Doras. Also this is the first JG2 Anton i've seen with the yellow/white/yellow RVD band, so its a pretty rare find. That's a great job Tim...congrats. Regards Cheers Kent, decals next, all the stencils are dry rub types, my first time out with these kind so anything can happen, at least i've got the kit ones to fall back on if I fail with them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 First off the under side showing the wells and flaps done in 02 Today has been spent decalling, not one of my favourite jobs. All the stencils were of the dry rub type and has mentioned it was my first time out with these. I've got to say it wasn't very enjoyable applying them, I found it a right fiddling operation. To apply them you had to first position them and then hold them in place with tape, you have to make sure they are in the correct position because you get no second chance. Imagine doing that to every one and you get the idea how laborious the job is. The only advantage using them would be if you was applying them over say Alclad and not Klearing over it. I certainly won;t break my neck to use them again. Saying that they do look great when on, but what an effort! The national insignia and number were normal water slide decals. The wing under surface cross looks over size its certainly not a normal sized one, but then again there is nothing normal about this 190! I'll give the decals a good day to dry out then it'll be another coat of Klear ready for a bout of weathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowmk9 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 That looks great Tank. Lovely plumage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 That looks incredible! First time I've seen or heard of dry decals, but they certainly seem to look good, though like you say, no second chances. Definitely not to be done while tired or in a mood! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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