SaintsPhil Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Afternoon BMers! Now I have my very own mancave (garage) I'm going to ditch the rattle can primers and give some airbrush ones a try (Mr Surfacer or Alclad I think). I've been looking about for a cheap second airbrush under the assumption I 'need' one to avoid damage to my H&S Evo or issues swapping between nice friendly arcylics and nasty laquer/cellulose based paints. Am I right to assume this or do others just use the one AB for both jobs? Particularly interested in anyone's option who also has an H&S! Also as an aside can anyone recommend a decent face mask for said nasty paints please? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I'm currently running a 2 x H&S Infinity set-up, purely for the convenience of being able to swap colours without cleaning a brush out, and one has the larger cup installed for "big jobs". I don't think that shifting between acrylic and cellulose is a problem if you clean up properly. If you've not had time to leave the thinners from the last batch to evaporate, I usually flush my brush through with thinners for the type I'm about to use. That should also flush the residue of the other thinners out, and "lube" up the needle ready for spraying. In case that's not clear, if I've been using acrylic, I'll clean it out, then run some cellulose or liquid reamer through before loading up with Alclad or whatever Speak to Paul @ Little-cars about a suitable mask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I can't see any problem switching paint types. I know a couple of people have have mentioned slight metallic contamination when shifting back to 'normal' paints, but that s a couple of people out of many hundred. Face mask, I stock the Scott Profile 2 twin respirator. small, medium or large sizes mask are available. Mask is £14, twin pack of filters is £16. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Excellent thanks gents! Mike what you say about the thinners makes perfect sense, should have figured that really! Paul I expect I'll be in touch soon about a respirator! Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I can't see any problem switching paint types. I know a couple of people have have mentioned slight metallic contamination when shifting back to 'normal' paints, but that s a couple of people out of many hundred. Face mask, I stock the Scott Profile 2 twin respirator. small, medium or large sizes mask are available. Mask is £14, twin pack of filters is £16. Paul Paul, while I've got you, have you ever encountered problems with certain types of solvent bases attacking airbrush seals? To be honest, that has been my main worry, especially with my ancient Sprite major. Or perhaps all modern seals are OK with any paints or solvents. Cheers, Nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Different airbrushes have different seals in different places, there are many different types and 'strengths' of solvents and different people use different cleaning regimes to clean their brushes. There are various factors to consider. The main problems I've seen are 'standard' rubber seals swelling up with some solvents. H&S had the problem early on, but have upgraded the seals to Vitron rubber or PTFE to combat this. I know some badger O rings swell up and have to be replaced and I'm sure it happens on a lot of different brushes. As with any sort of kit, check with the supplier or spares retailer, they should know if there is a specific problem with the products they support. But O rings by their nature are consumables and will wear. So you should expect to replace them at some point of the life of the brush. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I know a couple of people have have mentioned slight metallic contamination when shifting back to 'normal' paints, but that s a couple of people out of many hundred. I've noticed this a couple of times going from Alclad to Acrylics. Seems to take ages to clear out the Alclad "metallic flakes". Just have to be extra vigilant when cleaning out between different types. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I've noticed this a couple of times going from Alclad to Acrylics. Seems to take ages to clear out the Alclad "metallic flakes". Just have to be extra vigilant when cleaning out between different types. might I suggest a rattle can of Liquid Reamer? It's vicious stuff and will clear out all your flakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Different airbrushes have different seals in different places, there are many different types and 'strengths' of solvents and different people use different cleaning regimes to clean their brushes.There are various factors to consider. The main problems I've seen are 'standard' rubber seals swelling up with some solvents. H&S had the problem early on, but have upgraded the seals to Vitron rubber or PTFE to combat this. I know some badger O rings swell up and have to be replaced and I'm sure it happens on a lot of different brushes. As with any sort of kit, check with the supplier or spares retailer, they should know if there is a specific problem with the products they support. But O rings by their nature are consumables and will wear. So you should expect to replace them at some point of the life of the brush. Paul Thanks Paul, so it's still a bit of a gamble then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 might I suggest a rattle can of Liquid Reamer? It's vicious stuff and will clear out all your flakes Where do you get that from Mike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Where do you get that from Mike? The most important thing in a respirator is that it fits correctly. You need to try it on without the filters fitted, cover the air inlet valves with your palms ans breath in. There should be no air leaking in around the face seal. Next is to get the correct type of filter. For airbrushing with solvents you need an organic vapour cartridge and a particulate pre filter. 3M make comfortable respirators, I have both the 6000 and the 7000 series half masks, and I use the 6001 organic vapour cartridges and the particulate prefilter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radleigh Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have a H&S Solo for fine detail etc, and two badgers for larger stuff, base coats, laquers etc. I find it alot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Where do you get that from Mike? If you are looking for anythink like airbrush cleaner or face masks then drop me a line: info@little-cars.co.uk Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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