Airbrushing Camouflage

[Pip]

Hi All,

Please could you point me in the right direction for airbrushing my first camouflage design. So far I have only attempted plain colour designs but have now got a "Battle Of Britain" collection and am not really sure where to start.

Thanks in advance for any information you can provide.

Cheers

Pip

[Graham T]

You COULD try freehand depending upon the scale (1/48 & above) but a relatively simple method is to use blue/white tac. Roll it into thin sausages & apply it over the first colour in the correct pattern. Fill in with liquid masking fluid & then apply the second colour. Leave it to dry & remove the masking....Presto!

[Abacus]

A little bit more

http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT004-camo/00.shtm

[Paul J]

Like this with blu-tac. The yellowy stuff is artists liquid mask but you can use pieces of masking tape instead. Just remember which colour you are masking out to keep and spray the other. In this case, grey masked leaving the rest for the green.

[Richard M]

A variety of techniques illustrated with pictures here

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/about24523.html

[thankyousam]

I was pleased with the results of white tac edges and cling film over the top - this may suit larger areas, like my Vulcan, plus it uses household objects rather than pricey masking tape (perhaps I'm just tight) . I freehand sprayed the under colour, then laid out the white tac sausages and laid the cling film over the top and ran the scalpel along the tac and remove the side you don't need. This also pushes the side of the cling film you do want to keep into the white tac.

[Pip]

Like this with blu-tac. The yellowy stuff is artists liquid mask but you can use pieces of masking tape instead. Just remember which colour you are masking out to keep and spray the other. In this case, grey masked leaving the rest for the green.

Thanks for the great advice, and to everyone else for their's :-)

I was pleased with the results of white tac edges and cling film over the top - this may suit larger areas, like my Vulcan, plus it uses household objects rather than pricey masking tape (perhaps I'm just tight) . I freehand sprayed the under colour, then laid out the white tac sausages and laid the cling film over the top and ran the scalpel along the tac and remove the side you don't need. This also pushes the side of the cling film you do want to keep into the white tac.

Thanks for the great advice, and to everyone else for their's :-)

[gcn]

My current favourite is to cut masks from the instructions (would help if they were scaled up first ) and then attach them to the model with small rolls of tamiya tape. Clearly the tape needs to be rolled in on itself to have the sticky side on the outside. This then, dependant upon the size of the rolls creates a slight gap between the mask and the model to create that feathered edge. The bigger the gap the larger the feather. You do need to ensure you keep the painting angle at 90 degrees to the model otherwise paint could slip under the mask.

For a really tight demarcation use 1mm strips of tamiya tape. When its this thin it will bend to any curve.

I've never got on with the blu tac method as I find there can be inconsistency in the edges.

[Giorgio N]

For most schemes I use adhesive paper masks that I draw on my PC: I pass the instructions or drawings I trust on the scanner, convert this into a drawing software, correct if required (stretch and so on), print on adhesive A4 size sheets, cut the masks and apply them. If the camo edges are fathered, I lift the edge of the mask, if they are not I place the mask down on the model completely.

I still use the blu-tak sausages technique on some schemes although I don't like the oily residues I get.

Edited February 22, 2012 by Giorgio N

[Phantome]

7 year bump...

 

Just to chip in with another alternative a bit similar to Giorgio's but quicker:

 

1) Find an online version of the camo pattern (typically from a site that has the instructions like 1999.co.jp or super-hobby.com) and open it up in any graphics software.

 

2) Place the built up model over the screen and scale the image to fit the model

 

3) Place the thickest version of Tamiya tape (40mm) and tape it on your screen over the pattern you will be cutting out

 

4) Using a SOFT liquid pen (so as to not damage your screen) gently trace the camo pattern on the tape. Most screens should be bright enough that you will be able to easily see the pattern through the tape. Most screens nowadays are also tough enough that you'd really need to press hard on the pen to damage it. I have never had a problem.

 

5) Carefully remove the tape from your screen and place it on your cutting mat. Cut out the pattern. Ready!

 

 

[Stalker6Recon]

Phantome has a great method that is very new to me. I am returning to modelling after thirty years without building. Back in my day, we had to just estimate our patterns with painters tape.

 

Even back then, when building model aircraft with a simple pattern that is identical on both sides, just a mirror image, I would trace the model over a piece of paper. Then I would draw the first rough outline on one side of the planes "shadow". Then I would fold the paper in half from nose to tail, and cut our the pattern. Unfolded, you had exact copies on both sides. Then I would do this again, until I had the pattern/shape I was looking for.

 

Now depending on what type of edges you need, hard edges require the paper be very near the surface when painting, but you do not need an absolute seal to achieve a tight line. Just be careful though, too much paint on wet paper, and bad things will happen.

 

I am sure there are much better methods these days, and sounds like we both need to learn them. Most of all though, don't be worried about trying new stuff, and you fan always experiment on a plastic coke bottle (or your choice of rum), until you are comfortable and ready for the real McCoy!

 

Good luck,

 

Anthony stalker6recon D'Agostino