First WWI kit

[erikmuntz]

Hey guys,

I got a 1/48 Eduard Ablotross D.V and a SPAD XIII and am really excited to build them. I've already learned a lot of stuff by a google search but I have some question...

1) In 1/48, what size microfilament should I use for the proper scale wire for rigging?

2) I've heard its really hard to line the wings up correctly. Is this right? Any suggestions on this would be great.

3) Whats the best way to do a prop with the woodgrain effect?

Also, if there are any tips that I "need to know" please tell me. I'm really looking forward to building these and any advice you guys give would be great!!

Erik

Edited March 15, 2012 by erikmuntz

[487 Squadron]

Hi! Microfilament size? The thinner the better - some use 4lb fishing line, I use 'invisible mending thread' from the supermarket.The wings are hard to line up on some aircraft / kits, but both the ones you have there go together quite well, but I'd recommend you start with the Albatros. There are two 'easy' ways of doing woodgrain props. If you want an even colour but grainy appearance paint it buff, then use a sponge to wipe medium brown over it in the direction of the woodgrain. If you want to produce laminations (layers) then paint it buff, then use a brown pencil to draw on the darker laminations - check out my Albatros thread here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...topic=234912596 and there are some other threads in this forum on rigging etc. Above all - take your time, dryfit parts, and enjoy the builds.

Edited February 18, 2012 by 487 Squadron

[gcn]

Hi Erik

For 1/48 i'd be using either 1lb or 2lb fishing line, or have look for something called knit-in-elastic. It's a stretchy material, the more you stretch it the thinner it gets. Or EZ line the thin stuff (expensive and similar to knit in elastic).

For wing alignment have a look at Aeroclubs jig or you can make yor own out of lego or cardboard.

props either via masking or pencils. Have a look on either the Aerodrome or the greatwarintheair forum and search accordingly.

A few links for you

http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/

wood grain

Prop by pencils

Edited February 18, 2012 by gcn

[T-Tango]

Hi Erik;

I would strongly ditto Gary's (gcn) advice, they are very good links he has provided, with great and friendly advice and all the help you will need from guys that specialise in WWI aircraft.

Cheers

Pete.

[erikmuntz]

Thanks guys! I looked at all the links and took notes while doing so. These aircraft might not be the best but I'm gonna try my best!

Erik

[albatros1234]

the albatros would be a good first kit. better would be a fokker dr.1 or dvii. they have almost no rigging and are sharp looking aircraft. with the albatros i suggest glue the "v" struts to the top wing and let them dry thouroughly that way they will be solid and not tend to lay over under the weight of the wing. afterward glue the 2 cabane frames on the fuselage and position them close to the correct angle.you can then without much trouble put the top wing on and glue the bottom of the "v" into the lower wing .now just snap the cabane struts into position and let some liquid cement wick into the 2 holes on each side. do you get me? if notlet me know and i will explain it in a diff way for you. putting on the top wing is an skill that takes practice and can be quite frustrating. many guys build or purchase jigs to hold the wings in place while the struts are glued in place. i was hard headed so i fought my first dozen biplanes. remember any biplane that has a "V" or "N" shaped strut or anthing where they are combined as in the inboard set on your spad where ther is a cross member connecting them to make an "H" will be easier than a plane that has a bunch of individual struts. you almost need a jig in that case.the weight of the upper wing makes all the struts want to lean in various directions and will make you shout profanities. on planes that have the individual struts the ones that dont have a wing stagger are easier. whenever you have those 2 elements(stagger and indiv struts) the wing will want to twist and turn while the glue cures..good luck.there are many great modellers here as well as the " great war in the air" forum which is dedicated to only ww1 craft.

the albatros would be a good first kit. better would be a fokker dr.1 or dvii. they have almost no rigging and are sharp looking aircraft. with the albatros i suggest glue the "v" struts to the top wing and let them dry thouroughly that way they will be solid and not tend to lay over under the weight of the wing. afterward glue the 2 cabane frames on the fuselage and position them close to the correct angle.you can then without much trouble put the top wing on and glue the bottom of the "v" into the lower wing .now just snap the cabane struts into position and let some liquid cement wick into the 2 holes on each side. do you get me? if notlet me know and i will explain it in a diff way for you. putting on the top wing is an skill that takes practice and can be quite frustrating. many guys build or purchase jigs to hold the wings in place while the struts are glued in place. i was hard headed so i fought my first dozen biplanes. remember any biplane that has a "V" or "N" shaped strut or anthing where they are combined as in the inboard set on your spad where ther is a cross member connecting them to make an "H" will be easier than a plane that has a bunch of individual struts. you almost need a jig in that case.the weight of the upper wing makes all the struts want to lean in various directions and will make you shout profanities. on planes that have the individual struts the ones that dont have a wing stagger are easier. whenever you have those 2 elements(stagger and indiv struts) the wing will want to twist and turn while the glue cures..good luck.there are many great modellers here as well as the " great war in the air" forum which is dedicated to only ww1 craft.

[Forlornhope]

For wing alignment Sram also do a biplane jig. A bit pricey though and maybe hard to get

[Acky190]

For wing alignment Sram also do a biplane jig. A bit pricey though and maybe hard to get

I bought one this Monday from the Big "H" and it arrived yesterday (Wednesday), although it comes with no instructions it's not rocket science to put together and as I haven't used it yet I can't rate it. It does however look like a very nice bit of kit and not too dissimilar to Aeroclub's jig, although made of composites and not Meccano type steel. Oh and it's around £20!

Edited March 1, 2012 by Acky190

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Hi Erik, as a relative newcomer to 2 wingy things myself, I would offer you this advice:

Ask many questions and often - you will be pleasantly surprised at the depth and knowledge here, and on the Great war site ( especially there of course).

Take your time - I was surprised at how "strange' some bits of WW1 aircraft look when you are used to monoplanes or jets, and this threw me at first.

Do not fear struts or adding the the top wing - any kind of jig you can make will help ( Lego Ive heard is pretty good), but even a lump of blu-tack and some cocktail sticks will help. Work slowly, dont rush and you WILL be fine.

Unlike other type sof aircraft Biplanes seem to benfet form working in sub assemblies, so get used to the idea of you model staying in several parts until very close to the end of the build - the more painting you can do in these sub-assemblies the better I find.

Woodgrain props are just a trick to master like any other modelling technique - there are several methods and one will work for you. Dont worry if your first attempts look pants - you can always strip off the paint and try again.

Finally the guys ( from all sides) who flew these crates were damn brave and intrepid, often scared witless, but always determined to do their duty. Whatever your model turns out like you will be honouring their memory by building a replica. You can do no finer service to their memory than that in my opinion.

Cheers

Jonners

[T-Tango]

Finally the guys ( from all sides) who flew these crates were damn brave and intrepid, often scared witless, but always determined to do their duty. Whatever your model turns out like you will be honouring their memory by building a replica. You can do no finer service to their memory than that in my opinion.

Cheers

Jonners

Ditto this, also Eric don't forget the basic 'Dawn Patrol' breakfast was 1/2 a bottle of Scotch, it was the only way they could get them in the air.

Pete.

[seadog]

Ditto this, also Eric don't forget the basic 'Dawn Patrol' breakfast was 1/2 a bottle of Scotch, it was the only way they could get them in the air.

Pete.

Another thing that probably didn't add much to the fun was the castor oil lubricant for the engines....the pilots were breathing this stuff and it's a laxative.

F

[The Loggie]

G'Day Erik. Here is my 2p-worth.

Prop. I like to paint it gloss-white, then brush-paint it with Citadel Miniatures snakebite leather - use a coarse, stiff brush. Generally, only one pass is sufficient to get a wood-grain effect. Practice on scrap-plastic or a sprue first. The second step is to lay-down long strips of very thin strips of masking tape, paint with a darker brown paint, then remove the tape. When dry, coat it with a clear gloss. Optional is the use of a brass colour for some edges of the blades and the plate covering the hub.

Rigging and truing the wings with each-other. I use a product called EZ-Line - a thin elastic thread that can be split into thinner strands (if desired). There are two sizes & I go for the thinner one. I build, paint and decal the model into a lower-wing & fuselage assembly (orientate the wing with the fuselage in your normal way) LESS the wheels. Then I take a length of EZ-Line and super-glue in at its 2/3-point, into each socket on the lower wing, with superglue. Now, glue the struts into their sockets (with plastic cement), and WHILE THE CEMENT UNDER THE STRUTS IS STILL SOFT, I fit the model, upside-down, to the upper wing (it is tacked upside-down, onto a card). Use blocks, stacks of coins etc to true the two wings with each-other. I look over the lower-wing leading edge at the upper-wing leading edge to see that they are aligned, then, I use blocks beside the wing-tips to align the wing-tips with each-other. I usually rely on the struts to get the upper wing at the correct angle to the lower wing (usually they are parallel). When dry (2 days?) I right the fuselage, and draw the EZ-Line over the struts. Stretch NO MORE THAN 2-3%, and secure with superglue. The hang-over bits can be snipped-off later. IE, you are rigging without that top wing in the way. Finally, glue the struts onto the sockets of the top wing (again, upside-down). To free the model from the card, touch only the top wing and the card.

I recommend that you firat experiment in a cheap kit. Here, I recommend the SMER 48-scale Tigermoth.

Good luck & have fun. George, out.....................

[erikmuntz]

Thank you guys for the newer advice! I've started the Albotross (and an F-84G, what a pair, eh?) and am just waiting for the oil paint to dry in the interior of the cockpit. I painted it on Monday so it should be pretty close to being dry. I don't think I have to paint anything else wood grain so this should be the longest wait of the build. Shall I post some pictures of where I'm at when I get home from track? I think I shall and let you guys have a look. I got some smoke colored monofilament to use for rigging and am going to pick up the smallest possible styrene tubing for the rigging. Oh yea, and a #80 drill bit as I broke my newest one....again. Once I get the lower wing attached to the upper wing I am going to drill holes for the rigging material and then fill gaps and then paint. Due to school and track this might be a slower build but spring break is in a week and I know I will model a lot then.

Any advice you guys give is awesome and I'll upload some pictures tonight!