Epeeman Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 All, I am about a week into building my Wingnut Wings albatros DVa model and have started to paint the interior using the WNW method of using oil paint streaked with a sponge to simulate wood. The technique itself seems to work really well, but after leaving for 24 hours, I found that the oil paint has not dried and has a sort of 'wax' feel about it. I am using artist oils burnt sienna over base coat of Revell 'Oche' (acrylic paint). My question is - how long should this oil paint take to dry? I am now starting to worry that I have done something wrong and the paint won't dry - leaving me with a problem of getting the oil paint on an having to re paint over again assuming a new coat will sit over this (removed) oil paint. Anybody have any experience I can benefit from here? Thanks Epeeman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Tango Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 All, I am about a week into building my Wingnut Wings albatros DVa model and have started to paint the interior using the WNW method of using oil paint streaked with a sponge to simulate wood. The technique itself seems to work really well, but after leaving for 24 hours, I found that the oil paint has not dried and has a sort of 'wax' feel about it. I am using artist oils burnt sienna over base coat of Revell 'Oche' (acrylic paint). My question is - how long should this oil paint take to dry? I am now starting to worry that I have done something wrong and the paint won't dry - leaving me with a problem of getting the oil paint on an having to re paint over again assuming a new coat will sit over this (removed) oil paint. Anybody have any experience I can benefit from here? Thanks Epeeman You are being a bit quick mate, you are gonna have to leave it a few days to dry properly, you just have to be patient, I normaly leave mine for about a week. HTH Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haris Ali Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I agree with Pete, but if you add a bit of Winsor and Newton's Liquin to the mix, it speeds up the drying time quite a bit. It also aids the streaking effect when you apply the paint onto a base coat. I prefer to use a stiff flat good quality brush, about 10 mm wide to apply the paint. Haris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epeeman Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Thanks, gents - What a relief! I was beginning to think I had done something wrong - I based 24 hours drying time as was stated by WNW hints & tips. Epeeman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I tend to give mine 4 days, the thinner you make the oil the quicker it dries. I use W&N oils and their odourless thinner. Just put the parts in an airtight container and forget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdave Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I use the W&N acrylic oils. They are water based and work fine, and you can overspray with future or gunze clear orange within half an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfisti Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Oils take a while to dry as Pete and the oyhers have pointed out.I always squeeze a blob of the desired oil colour onto a piece of cardboard or thick paper and let it stand for about 20-30 minutes before applying to the surface to be covered.This helps absorb the oils in the paint and speeds up drying time,but I still leave it for at least 2 days before I attempt to touch it.I also paint a small unobtrusive test area on the model at the same time,and then check that before commencing further to detrmine if its OK to proceed with the model further. Dave. Edited February 8, 2012 by Alfisti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I always use 'Griffin Alkyd' oil paints. In every respect they behave like normal oils, except that they will be bone dry in 4 - 6 hours. As well as Woodgrain I use them for Fokker Streaked green Try them, you'll never use any other oils again! Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epeeman Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Gents, Thank you all - I'm so glad I joined these model forums as I never failed to be impressed by how helpful and friendly (not to mention the high level of skills on display) everybody is. I'm learning all the time! Epeeman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham T Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) I've never used this technique before, having only just got in to WW1 & between the wars subjects. I'm starting the WNW Ninak & bought some Tamiya acrylic sand paint & W & N Artisan water based oils. I exprimented with the sponge technique on some card & it works well even for a newbee like me. The areas I treated on Tuesday are still a little tacky so it looks like 3-4 days is the rule! These water based oils are great as you simply rinse the sponge or brush in warm water. Edited February 9, 2012 by Graham T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
487 Squadron Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 You can use exactly the same technique with Acrylics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antoine Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Check there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Ask UziYerDaddy - he uses wood grain decals, which look absolutely awesome when done well. Sadly, I can't remember the name of the company, but they're an excellent idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eclarson Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) Several years ago, when I built the WNW LVG, I had so many people ask how I did the woodgrain that I worked up a little tutorial article on my process, which is just a variation of the one shown in the WNW instructions. http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/woodgrainel_1.htm Hope this helps. Cheers, Eric Edited February 10, 2012 by eclarson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Several years ago, when I built the WNW LVG, I had so many people ask how I did the woodgrain that I worked up a little tutorial article on my process, which is just a variation of the one shown in the WNW instructions. http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/woodgrainel_1.htm Hope this helps. Cheers, Eric Thanks Eric, I think I'll be going out to get a fan brush today! Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham T Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Well here are my first efforts on the interior of the WNW Ninak. Not perfect but I'm quite pleased for a first proper try. Tamiya acrylic base with oil applied with a small piece of sponge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEEBEE Z Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 When I were a lad,this ere woodgrainy thing were called Scumblin',as opposed to Smugglin,which were completely diff'rent. You used a rubber comb and a rag to get the effects,and when done proper,looked better than the real thing. Yours The ancient reminicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Tango Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hi Dave; How goes the Albie, I hope everything is going OK, I've just started mine, I like to work on the engine first and get that out of the way. Cheers Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epeeman Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hello, Pete - Thanks for asking - yes, thankfully the paint dried after about 5 days. So, on Saturday evening, started work building up the cockpit area. What a trial! the fit is pretty tight. Thank you for the advice on ensuring you don't get paint in grooves where all the bulkheads fit. After I filled and sanded out the sink holes inside the fuselage halves I applied some liquid mask into the grooves before painting. After paint dried, I carefully picked out the mask. Even so, either from removing parts from sprue or whilst assembling, managed to break about six parts. The plastic seems quite brittle! the most frustrating bit was assembling the seat bulkheads - I managed to break both of the seat support bars. Got there in the end though! Have now oil painted the other bulkheads so will not be able to do any more work until next weekend whilst this paint dries. I could start a new topic (in this WW1 forum?) on progress of build - although I'm a bit shy showing off my 'skills' as the cockpit has only been built OOB and my skills are not up to the standard of others. What do you think? Dave (Epeeman) PS - good luck with next project - I will carefully follow your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Tango Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Dave, by all means start a build progress thread, we would love to see your progress, don't be shy, it's the only way to get help and hints. Look foreward to seeing some pics soon. Cheers Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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