Ian Shumsky Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I've used 1p, 2p and 5p coins, but you can also use scuba diving shot, such as this on eBay. It is cheaper to buy this from a dive shop, but you get the idea! I'd also fix this in with a 2 part epoxy glue rather than superglue, just in case your model gets a knock and the pellets come loose. Cheers, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 If you have a 'Boyes' store near you, look in the fishing department, good (god knows what they're made of ) plumb weights, can take a bit of cutting but, cheap as chips and do the job well, weighted down my 1/32 P.38 with no problem hth Pez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza l Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Nuts are what I use, as in nuts and bolts...not Hazlenuts! Various sizes to suit the gaps, brass or stainless, then epoxy glued in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 yes, use those too and, screw as many nuts onto the bolt as possible and then epoxy the lot in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davepb Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) If you know anybody that teaches science, lead dust, or fine shot, from science suppliers is excellent. Mix some white glue with adrop of detergent and some water, add to the reqired weight of lead to make a stiff paste, then fill the nose, engine cowlings on multi's etc. A perfect fit every time!! Dave Edited June 8, 2012 by davepb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejboyd5 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Air rifle pellets for the usual model, portions of wheel balance weights for the larger jobs, all glued in place. Like Vulcanicity, I've become quite adept at picking used weights from the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk666 Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 i use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150488248066 should last me a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pte1643 Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) I generally use Old Nuts and Bolts from the shed (if the space will allow). Other than that fishing weights are ideal, and cheap as chips. The small "Shot" weights aren't lead anymore (haven't been allowed for some time now), but the larger ones (bigger than 1oz) that are typically used for sea fishing (Breakaways, for example) are still lead, and are dirt cheap and can be easily cut into bits for nose weights. No need to spend large. Edited August 27, 2012 by pte1643 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
depressed lemur Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Just a small note of caution, the above works very well though i would just suggest if using 'scrap' weights give 'em a wash first. Reason? While most CAR brake pads are non asbestos, high performance brake pads still contain asbestos. I doubt if any garage will separate contaminated weights from non contaminated, though i would love to be proved wrong! Paul My supplier is very used to me now and always puts some new weights to one side when I call to order tyres. I never need the dirty ones now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sprtt Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Hey guys I use fishing weights. Currently working on an Airfix 1/48 Buccaneer, any advise on how much weight required in the nose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 On 08/06/2012 at 9:33 PM, davepb said: If you know anybody that teaches science, lead dust, or fine shot, from science suppliers is excellent. Mix some white glue with adrop of detergent and some water, add to the reqired weight of lead to make a stiff paste, then fill the nose, engine cowlings on multi's etc. A perfect fit every time!! Dave Lead dust is nasty stuff. The main reason I changed over to using steel shot. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davepb Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 2 hours ago, little-cars said: Lead dust is nasty stuff. The main reason I changed over to using steel shot. Paul But it doesn't rust, and provided you take the same precautions as you would with resin or similar materials, it's fine. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 13 hours ago, davepb said: But it doesn't rust, and provided you take the same precautions as you would with resin or similar materials, it's fine. Dave Personally, I tend to go with the least dangerous product I can find, that does the job. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusArenco Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I keep meaning to pick up some tungsten putty to try. (Tackle shops are full of wonders for modellers. Thin lead wire for fly fishing etc.) Another thing I sometimes do is to carve out/Dremel overly thick fuselage halves aft of the centre line. Messy job, but saves a bit of nose weight bulk in those hard to balance kits with little space to add weight. Mart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I was going to use wheel balance weights in my next build, but the owner of the car came back and I had to run for it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treker_ed Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 On 20/01/2012 at 4:44 PM, treker_ed said: i've finally managed to find a reasonably priced source of lead flashing - Jewsons! 3mtrs long, 15cms wide - same size as from Wickes and B&Q etc but only £26.00 (inc vat). Considering this weighs abot 5kg i think this will last for some considerable time i've also acquired a bottle of "liquid" weight for those small jobs that have an internally enclosed space for hiding weigt in! Thanks for all the suggestions - in the end the lead was the most cost effective over a long term. Over 5 years later - I've still got the majority of the lead flashing left! I think I was right back in 2012 when I said that this was the most cost effective solution, £26.00 over 5 years (so far) £5.20 per year, probably in excess of 30kits that needed the lead so far. I think the lead flashing purchased back in 2012 was a very good bargain! (ps way to go with thread resurrection I thought this one had ceased long ago ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 While looking for something else, I came across this tape used to weight tennis rackets https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LPME7VU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It arrived today, and looks pretty useful - the flat shape makes it a candidate for easily lining side panels, nose wheel bays if you're stuck for space. It has an adhesive, not sure I'd trust it though. Granted lead has its hazards, but it is so malleable it's very useful as a scratch build material as well. Just be sensible with it and wash hands after handling. Cheers, Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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