Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) I've just applied a large decal on the fin of a model Phantom (892 SQN red fin decal) and it wrinkled like a fine spiders web or crazy paving when Microsol was applied. No problem thought I as it has happened before and usually it flattens out when the Microsol dries. Not this time though, even after repeated application of Microsol I still have a crazy paving, spiders web of fine wrinkles across the decal, any suggestions? I have the Gunze Mark setter and softener but haven't tried them yet, are they stronger than Microsol? Edited January 11, 2012 by Duncan B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Worth a try. Its happened to me several times. The Mr Softer/Setter is a bit 'meaner' but it might take several goes. You might like to 'gentleman's parts' areas at random to help the decal settle. When it has happened to me and the solvents didn't do much, I gave the decal a very light rub down with very worn out wet and dry but only when the decal is fully dried out!. This reduced the 'crazy paving' problem a bit and under a finishing coat appeared OK. Trial and error afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Worth a try. Its happened to me several times. The Mr Softer/Setter is a bit 'meaner' but it might take several goes. You might like to 'gentleman's parts' areas at random to help the decal settle. When it has happened to me and the solvents didn't do much, I gave the decal a very light rub down with very worn out wet and dry but only when the decal is fully dried out!. This reduced the 'crazy paving' problem a bit and under a finishing coat appeared OK. Trial and error afraid. Cheers Paul, I've jut applied the first dab of Mr mark softer so will see how it goes but I suspect it'll need rubbing down after. Typically it was the last decal to go on after a marathon decaling session yesterday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Duncan, I agree with Paul. I've done similar when faced with wrinkling decals - I've either pricked them with a pin, or made a small opening with a sharp scalpel blade (when the decal is totally dry) along a panel line. Getting the solvet in and under it is the trick. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Duncan,I agree with Paul. I've done similar when faced with wrinkling decals - I've either pricked them with a pin, or made a small opening with a sharp scalpel blade (when the decal is totally dry) along a panel line. Getting the solvet in and under it is the trick. Andy Thanks Andy, The solvent is on now and wrinkling up along the problem areas so I'll just have to be patient and wait and see. At least it gives me time to get all the other fiddly bits and pieces finished while I wait! (like fixing the pitot tube that i broke off while mucking up the decal.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I use Johnsons Klear for decals, very good for going around curved surfaces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I use Johnsons Klear for decals, very good for going around curved surfaces How do you use it? I have used it as a gloss coat before applying the decals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 No the decal hasn't settled down any but the Mr Mark Softer has made the dye run so it'll have to come off. So the next question is what's best for removing decals without striping off the paint (or the other decals)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 No the decal hasn't settled down any but the Mr Mark Softer has made the dye run so it'll have to come off. So the next question is what's best for removing decals without striping off the paint (or the other decals)? Well I can answer my own question on this one. More Mircosol, a stiff brush, a cocktail stick and plenty rubbing. Luckily I have another of the same kit in the stash so I've got another decal so hopefully second time lucky, thanks to everyone who offered help. DB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 How do you use it? I have used it as a gloss coat before applying the decals. Just put the Klear on the back of the decal and postion in place and using a damp cloth damp it down and wipe away the klear that may of come out of the edges of the decal, one problem is that it is very difficult to remove sometimes when its dry No the decal hasn't settled down any but the Mr Mark Softer has made the dye run so it'll have to come off. So the next question is what's best for removing decals without striping off the paint (or the other decals)? Cellotape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat C Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Duncan - was it a Fujumi decal? Usually they are quite resistant to decal solutions! Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Duncan - was it a Fujumi decal? Usually they are quite resistant to decal solutions!Pat Yes Pat, it was the last decal to go on too, lucky I had another couple in the stash. I have replaced it now, just used water so it hasn't snuggled into the panel lines so well but at least it is smooth now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Try the same process with decal liquid and when its nearly dry(and wrinkly), very carefully dab it with damp tissue as if to squeeze out the air bubbles ad wrinkles. Risky though if decal too wet and still moves as it could distort!!! Go with caution but should end up better. If you run out of the red fin flash decals I can spare my unused ones! Did you lay the model on its side so the fin lies flat (or 90degs from vertical). This is supposed to aid decal solutions to help decal settle.? Edited January 11, 2012 by Paul J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Try the same process with decal liquid and when its nearly dry(and wrinkly), very carefully dab it with damp tissue as if to squeeze out the air bubbles ad wrinkles. Risky though if decal too wet and still moves as it could distort!!! Go with caution but should end up better. If you run out of the red fin flash decals I can spare my unused ones!Did you lay the model on its side so the fin lies flat (or 90degs from vertical). This is supposed to aid decal solutions to help decal settle.? It's gone one without too much bother this time using the water only. I'll make do with the way it is, the decal is a bit thick but wrinkle free this time. Thanks for the offer anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 With fujimi decals I have found hot water to be best. Really get it as hot as you can, this really softens the decals. If you use klear then make sure you get the decal adhesive of the back as well. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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