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Wolfpack, Baby!


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  • 2 weeks later...

Glad you're enjoying it gents. Unfortunately, my laptop seems to have given up the ghost, and I've been told that it will take three weeks to get it back from it's diagnosis (not - repair - just finding out what's wrong with it!):( No pics until further notice, but when I do, it should be a few more updates.

Jens

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  • 2 weeks later...

At long last - my laptop is back from the dead with a new harddrive, and I can show some of what I've been doing for the past three weeks although it may not look like much. The DACO and Model ARt books have lots of excellent reference photos, and I keep finding things to fix. Since I left off with the compressors, here's a look down the intakes.

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That allowed me to put the intakes on, and I had a little job trying to get the leading edges filled, faired in and to line up properly.

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The arrester hook in the kits that I have are generally flash-ridden, out of round and missing in detail - it is also too long. I therefore decided to make a new one using the ends from the kit and a centre section from stainless steel tubing.

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The cooling fans and mesh came from the AMUR Reaver set - the mesh is too coarse, so the fans are unfortunately hidden.

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The exhaust fairings have been modified a fair bit as well as added detail, and as I didn't feel like doing the work all over again, I would cast them in resin. The original to the left, the resin master (with overflow) to the right. The raised panel on the upper part of it is a thermal blanket I believe - here created with two layers of Bare Metal Foil.

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Of all the methods I've tried to improve the Phoenix pallets, this is the most successful. 1.5x4 mm Evergreen Strip on the bottoms, 3.2x6.4 mm strip on the top and sides of 0.25 mm plasticard.

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Although the flanks are now a little too sharply tapered, the missile now fits.

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The canopy frame also needed some details, but the etched kit part could be used. The demisting pipes were soldered together from brass wire - the rest was plasticard detailing.

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Add a wash...

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And bring together with the canopy - the conductors are made from thin copper wire glued in place with Future on the inside of the canopy.

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One more thing that needs fixing with the kit canopy is the rear frame. The kit part is too thick to prevent this from laying properly.

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Note the thinner trailing edge...

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The wing seals in the kit leave large gaps with the wings in the oversweep position...

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The solution is Milliput with some finishing touches of 1 pack filler.

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More to come...

Jens

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One thing I forgot to mention earlier - to make the tinted section of the windshield as shown earlier, I first used the clear blue self adhesive film from Hasegawa - sent to me from Japan by a friend (thank you Christopher!). Although the film worked well, it was too blue and dense, so I removed it and used Alclad Armoured Glass transparent paint. Although there was some orange peel (and I probably put too much paint on so the contrast became larger than it should be), this can be polished out.

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I also took the opportunity to add some warning lights to the inside canopy frame - small details that fill the space...

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This afternoon I finished off the exhausts, although the exhaust fairings and nozzles aren't stuck together.

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The 1:72 kit allows you to slide the exhausts in afterwards even though the side fairings are glued on - not so with this kit. The fit wasn't the greatest, so I wanted to assemble these to the fuselage and fill and sand. To fit these now, I will have to slip the exhaust fairings up, and then insert the burner cans through the fairings and finally glue on the nozzle. A while to go yet though...

Jens

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Incredible work, my friend. I had no idea the Hasegawa 1:48 scale kit needed this much work. Quite a few of the items that you've fixed are reasonably correct in the smaller 1:72 kit. I admire your hard work in getting this right - it will be a stunning replica!

Cheers,

Bill

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To be honest Bill, neither did I. OK, it's not a new kit, but it is generally considered the best in the scale. Having seen the competition, I would agree, but there is still a surprising amount of work you can do to the kit to make it better. Once this gets finished, I need something easier...

Jens

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The canopy mirrors in the kit must be more difficult than the Aires set. The aires set is made in brass whereas the kit has them in nickel silver or stainless steel - both are hard to bend. The problem is that the front mirror frame are on a carrier piece that is a very open V-shape, and this just doesn't fit the shape of the canopy frame. Even the brass was a struggle, but that was bent into shape eventually - you'll find it hard to do that with the kit parts. Your best bet may be to cut the mirrors off and glue them individually to the canopy frame.

Jens

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I'm not a soldering expert by far, but what little I know is easy to show. The clue to successful soldering is flux. No flux, no joy. Flux really makes the solder creep in like capillar action works for solvent cements. Really - don't try without it.

Jens

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I agree with everyone's comments on the canopy. The extra level of detail really shines! Now you've got me thinking about how to add the demisting tubes to my 1:72 scale canopy...

Cheers,

Bill

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Simply incredible! Lovely work Jens, and as has been said before, its good to see the combination of A/M and scratchbuilding. This is coming along so well, love it!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Too much DIY and work going on lately to be able to finish it within the deadlines of the GB, but I do have every intention of finishing it. That should teach me not to do another Hasegawa Tomcat for a Group Build ever again:) Pics in the regular work in progress forum unless this is still open (just to keep the descriptions and pics in one thread).

Jens

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well...it will be open until next sunday at least....but I'm sitting back in awe at what your doing with this; dont think I could do the kind of work your doing here.

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