woody37 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Hi Alistair, that sounds pretty good and perhaps a bit easier than the route I went down. Any pics appreciated Cheers Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks for the update Ali, I might try that when I do a Mk.II. Another thing, I`m on the final straight with my Hercules engined Mk.VI now but does anybody have any info regarding the bomb load carried by late war Halibags? I quite fancy including a 4,000lb `Cookie' surrounded by 500lb and 250lb bombs but does anybody have an idea, or even better a photo/plan view that I could work from please? All of my Halibag books etc have come up blank on this one. All the best Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks for the update Ali, I might try that when I do a Mk.II. Another thing, I`m on the final straight with my Hercules engined Mk.VI now but does anybody have any info regarding the bomb load carried by late war Halibags? I quite fancy including a 4,000lb `Cookie' surrounded by 500lb and 250lb bombs but does anybody have an idea, or even better a photo/plan view that I could work from please? All of my Halibag books etc have come up blank on this one. All the best Tony O Hi Tony, I asked this question a while ago: HERE Should answer your question. You've just reminded me, I still need to put some bombs in my MkIII !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 The CD-ROM on the Mk.III shows all the available bombloads. Somewhere on the site is a link to the actual pictures. It does not show any other weapon in the bombbay with the 2x4000lb or 1x8000lb carriage. The wing bays remain, but you are getting close to fairly heavy loads, and thus nearer targets. The bombdoors won't close with the 4000lb - see Merrick P32, where it states that a doped canvas was sometimes used to provide a crude fairing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks Neil I`ve found your original thread and cheers Graham for the info from the CD Rom, I`m very tempted to buy one of these. All the best Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miduppergunner Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) The Halifax did carry two 4000lb bombs - the canvas "fairing" did not seemingly make a lot of difference and it also carried an 8000lb one - the first being the night of 10/04/42 - the aircraft was piloted by Renaut and it was 76 Sqdn - raid on Essen - my Uncle was shot down that night and the ORB shows that his aircraft carried two 4000lb bombs plus... PS It is interesting to note that Bowan in his "Legend of the Lancasters" claims that "the 4000lb bomb was never widely used..... because only one could be carried by Lancaster aircraft and none by Halifaxes" I did write to him (he is local) but he never replied........ I have also seen him about but have not bothered to engage in conversation. Edited February 15, 2012 by miduppergunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Just out of interest, have a look at Brett Green's "fix" on Hyperscale in 'What's new', simple yet effective. He sent me some photos a short while ago but obviously I couldn't comment before he published. The metal props I showed will be on sale shortly. John Edited February 15, 2012 by John Aero Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David H Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Agreed. Brett's Improved Halifax does look great. And i now have a much better appreciation of the "Issues" with the Revell kit. david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 He's done a great job and shown another excellent solution to the engine issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I'll go with the interesting, wish I'd thought of that, but not so sure about the excellent. It would have helped had he opened the intakes and thinned the propeller, but he did at least notice the latter. I'm still working on thinning the nacelles down and it is suffocating my modelling enthusiasm. I'm having to modify every part of the undercarriage bay except the retraction struts (yet to check that!) as well as every part of the nacelle bar the exit flap. Luckily I'm using the late exhausts, or they would require even more work. I'm thinking of using the end of the exhausts as fronts for the side intakes. And I'm doing this whilst Sword Spitfire and Airfix Spitfire, Zero and Swordfish remain untouched. Must be mad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Well the Halifax Mk.VI is almost done and having matted it down with Polly Scale Acrylic Flat (Brushed on!) I`m just adding the last bits, including the mid upper turret which was made to sit lower in the fuselage. As the wings came from an old damaged kit there were parts missing so the Aileron balance waights were made from fuse wire with a blob of white glue and one of the undercarriage doors was missing so one was cut out from thick plastic card and painted black; For the under wing serials I used a generic set from Carpena, even though the number `2' is the wrong style, however the day after this was done I was informed by the artist who drew the Xtradecal sheet (which apart from the small underwing serials really is a fantastic sheet and long awaited, allowing some great schemes to be replicated) that Hannants have asked him to re draw a set of correct sized serials which will be included in the sheet in future, and hopefully available for those who have already bought it. If so, I`ll be repainting the wings and applying the new serials. Whilst doing all of this I`ve been playing with my `spare' set of Revell wings and I`ve come up with the following result by sanding the nacelles down quite drastically and adding some Matchbox Halibag spinners from the spares box,......what do you think? Obviously I still need to add new intakes to the top of the inner engines but comments are welcome as I cannot make my mind up whether I like them or not! And I`ve added the wings to another Revell fuselage. I`m going to try fitting it with an Aeroclub Tollerton Fairing (Z Nose) taken from an old model to make a 10 Sqn aircraft; But the Mk.II (Special) is way down the pipeline for now, and its back on with the Mk.VI, All the best for now Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Tony, The Mk.VI is looking fantastic. You've improved the Merlin nacelles a great deal, like what you've done with the radiators. Is there enough meat on the upper nacelles to increase the taper and make them look less 'boxy' ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Tony,The Mk.VI is looking fantastic. You've improved the Merlin nacelles a great deal, like what you've done with the radiators. Is there enough meat on the upper nacelles to increase the taper and make them look less 'boxy' ? Cheers Neil, Nah the plastic on the upper nacelles of the Mk.II wings is now wafer thin in places and couldn`t stand anymore sanding at all. I tried with one and went right through, leaving a big hole!! Cheers Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Cheers Neil, Nah the plastic on the upper nacelles of the Mk.II wings is now wafer thin in places and couldn`t stand anymore sanding at all. I tried with one and went right through, leaving a big hole!! Cheers Tony O What about filling them with milliput first Tony? Would that work? Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Is the problem not that the (modified) nacelles are too bulky and need rounding at the corners - after all, you have to get the cylinder heads of a V12 in there - but that the top line of the nacelle goes higher over the wing than the Revell kit? If not quite the shape of the Matchbox fairing, but something more like the peak size of the Matchbox fairing with something more like the shape of the Revell one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) What about filling them with milliput first Tony? Would that work?Keef Hiya Keef, I hadn`t thought of that and it probably would help, but I only started this as a bit of whittling really to see if I could improve matters at all and never went for a perfect scale replica, using photos as my only source of reference. You`d still end up breaking through the plastic though and wouldn`t it be hard to make the milliput and the remaining plastic nice and smooth? Graham Boak-Is the problem not that the (modified) nacelles are too bulky and need rounding at the corners - after all, you have to get the cylinder heads of a V12 in there - but that the top line of the nacelle goes higher over the wing than the Revell kit? If not quite the shape of the Matchbox fairing, but something more like the peak size of the Matchbox fairing with something more like the shape of the Revell one? I think that you could be right in what you say Graham and I agree that the V of the engine has to be incorporated, but I haven`t got the skill, time nor the inclination to do all of the major surgery required, especially as Revell should have done all of this for us in the first place. As long as the engines look better than the bloody awful rendition that Revell made of them and something like the real thing then I`m happy really. I`d like to do a few more Halibags so will be getting hold of the Freightdog sets which seem to do the same thing as Brett Green has done on hyperscale, but they do it with much better detail and the propellers are way ahead of the original Matchbox `things'. If the Aeroclub Z Nose doesn`t fit the new Revell kit then I hope that they have a future release planned which includes this as it was included on the parts shown before the kit was released. Cheers Tony O Edited February 16, 2012 by tonyot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 No: the Freightdog set are just much better shapes made to the original gross size. Brett fitted the smaller Matchbox intakes and used filler to fair them into the Revell nacelles. The auxiliary parts in the Freightdog set will be useful, however. If I'm feeling really generous I might buy a set and just fling the intakes away. Being resin, they'd fly further than the Revell parts. I'm not saying that the engines are too high over the wing, though it's something that will need some checking, given the different ways of solving the problems. I think that the top line of the cowling should go higher: that the Revell fairing is too low on the wing. Maybe this implies that the engines are too low - certainly the lower cowling line is too flat and should rise more, but I put that down to the oversize. It's a complex area - the original's engines were too high, part of the cause of the higher drag on the Halifax than the Lancaster - and I'm not sure just what is required, at the moment. I still haven't got that far on my bodge....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I hadn`t thought of that and it probably would help, but I only started this as a bit of whittling really to see if I could improve matters at all and never went for a perfect scale replica, using photos as my only source of reference. You`d still end up breaking through the plastic though and wouldn`t it be hard to make the milliput and the remaining plastic nice and smooth? I'm wondering if maybe a few coats of Mr Surfacer may help blend it all in? I do like your fix, it seems to be the 'quickest fix' so far. Maybe in combination with a couple of strategic cuts in the lower nacelle? Or maybe I'll just follow your other build & steal my Airfix kits wings & do a III..... Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Yeah Keef, Just stick some Airfix wings on it as it is much easier and the Hercules engined versions are the best looking ones in my opinion anyway! Just don`t forget to saw the wings off level with the outer skin of the Airfix fuselage as otherwise they will be too long when fitted to the Revell fuselage! All the best Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1ak 2 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 HiI saw this article after I bought my Halifax and realised all was not well with the engines. Luckily I had a spare Matchbox example lying around and like you realised that the outer engines were too high. I adopted a slightly different approach in that I removed the rear hump from the wing in total, filed the wing upper joint under the hump down about 1.5 mm and then attached it to the engine cowling. Added the plastic card to the to drop the the entire nacelle as you did but when attaching I achieved the effect that the entire engine, including the rear of the hump, had "sunk" into the wing. I then filled the resulting gap with Pratley's putty (South African equivalent of milliput which I swear by). This gave me a lot less area on the top of the wing to get level and relieved me of having to mould a new hump. Accuracy? Cant say for certain but it does look a lot more like the picture now. One day i will figure out how to attach pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John1ak 2 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hi Alistair, that sounds pretty good and perhaps a bit easier than the route I went down. Any pics appreciatedCheers Neil I have the pics - can you please tell me how to attach them to the topic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) Hi Alistair, You will need to upload them to an online area such as photobucket (takes seconds to register a free account). When uploaded, there will be several lines of gobbygook below each pic. You need to copy the 'direct link' text. I tend to reduce the pixels in mine using paint before I do this to reduce them to 1000 x what ever as it significantly reduces the file size. Back on Britmodeller, on you're reply option, the menu at the top of the box has an option 'add image'. Click on this. First time you do it, a menu will pop up at the top of your screen. Click on it then click the 'add image' again. A little window opens up. Paste the gobblygook text from photobucket into it and click 'OK'. It will now post your image. Sounds complicated, but it's not. Much easier when you have two seperate browsers open with BM on one and PB on the other. Hope that helps, Cheers Edited February 17, 2012 by woody37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Back on Britmodeller, on you're reply option, the menu at the top of the box has an option 'add image'. Click on this. First time you do it, a menu will pop up at the top of your screen. Click on it then click the 'add image' again. A little window opens up. Paste the gobblygook text from photobucket into it and click 'OK'. You don't actually need to do all that. I can only talk about Photobucket as that's the one I use, but after you upload your pics to there, you just click on the pic you want to post. On the 'links' menu that comes up next to the pic, click 'IMG code'. This turns yellow & states 'copied'. In the thread that you are replying to, wherever you wish to insert the pic in your post, just right click your mouse, hit paste & the image code will be copied in. Hit the Preview Post to check that you have copied in the right pic & you're good to go Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Cheers Keef, you learn something every day I've been doing it the long way for years......doh ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyot Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 FINISHED!!! Finally finished the Hercules engined model and here it is; I`ll stick some more pics on ready for inspection, Cheers Tony O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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