Jump to content

Matchbox / Airfix and Revell Halifax Lovechildren


woody37

Recommended Posts

Both Lovechildren seem to be making great progress.

Tony your halifax is looking great. It's gone from looking like one that's been sat outside for years to immaculate. That paint job has completely transformed it. Hope your back is on the mend.

Neil, you've done a great job with the wheels. It might be worth having a go myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some seriously great work here Neil and Tony!

Tony: I gather that like me you're a brush painter, and looking at the gloss-coated Halifax wings gave me a thought. Can I ask what matt varnish you use to get a successful final finish? I've never found any brush-on varnish really works satisfactorily, and I just narrowly avoided a white-stained disaster on a Spit with black/white undersurfaces. Any advice?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't know about your accident Tony. Was this military or a hobby ?

Fantastic progress mate, that really is looking the part now.

Cheers

Neil

Hiya Neil,

Glad you like the Halibag. The jump was military mate, using a good old fashioned round PX-4 chute during a Brigade drop back in 1989. I took a back left landing into a barbed wire fence, but my feet didn`t touch the ground and so my back took the full force, then I was dragged over the top of the fence by my canopy which had re inflated as there was quite a breeze blowing!

Anyway enough of that, those wheels are looking fab, although I`m going to see what they look like on the finished model before I decide about altering mine. I`m probably wrong, but I`m pretty sure that there was quite a bit of leeway in relation to the tyre sizes, although I`ll have to double check through photos of the real thing before deciding.

All the best

Tony O

Edited by tonyot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some seriously great work here Neil and Tony!

Tony: I gather that like me you're a brush painter, and looking at the gloss-coated Halifax wings gave me a thought. Can I ask what matt varnish you use to get a successful final finish? I've never found any brush-on varnish really works satisfactorily, and I just narrowly avoided a white-stained disaster on a Spit with black/white undersurfaces. Any advice?

Yes I`m a brush painter! I generally use Polly Scale acrylic varnish if I can and two coats with a wide flat brush are usually enough to dull a model down. To remove the brush strokes that always show up when using acrylics I then lightly load another brush with the same varnish and `dry brush' it onto the model in a scrubbing motion. It takes a bit of practice but you`ll get the hang of it and I only discovered it by trial and error. Quite a few people have asked me the same question and received the same answer and nobody has come back to say it doesn`t work, so it should be quite easy to pick up? If you cannot find Polly Scale (I bought a job lot during a holiday to the States a few years ago!), then slightly thinned Humbrol acrylic or Xtracrylics should suffice as I`ve used those in the same manner too. Leave plenty of time in between coats as otherwise you can get white streaks like you said. Another source of white streaks in acrylic varnish is not shaking it enough in the pot/ bottle before use.

Hope that helps,

Tony O

Edited by tonyot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Revell undercarriage is now fitted to the Matchbox wings with the enlarged wheels. The Matchbox tailwheel has been used (put on after these pics were taken).

DSCF0528.jpg

DSCF0530.jpg

I'm currently fighting the clear bits trying to use decal strip to make the frames on the cockpit and slowly masking the turrets.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mark.

I'm really not enjoying doing the glass bits without precut masks. Trying to keep the nose bits clean throughout the build has only been a partial success and there will be a few compromises unfortunately.

The matchbox prop cones look wrong to me, so if John Aero does some more 3 blade props with hubs I'll be snapping those up. There's not enough meat on the MB ones to file them flat in profile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those wheels on the Mk.II look far too big!!

Only joking, they look great, as does the rest of the model and those Aeroclub Gallay radiator intakes really do make the matchbox engine nacelles look the part, I wish I had a set of those, plus the Block type too for my stashed Matchbox kits but I gather that they are unavailable now?

Keep up the good work,.....nearly there now!

Tony O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nearing the end now, so this is going to be the final WIP pic before RFI. I've enjoyed the build, but the details are beginning to to be a chore.

Got the rear turret, aerials and various sticky out bits to do but should be done by tomorrow latest. I'm not very happy with the clear bits, but the more I mess, the more they deteriorate, so best to leave them. Tony, you're cockpit looks incredibly neat, how did you do the frames ?

DSCF0542.jpg

Thanks for following

Those wheels on the Mk.II look far too big!!

Only joking, they look great, as does the rest of the model and those Aeroclub Gallay radiator intakes really do make the matchbox engine nacelles look the part, I wish I had a set of those, plus the Block type too for my stashed Matchbox kits but I gather that they are unavailable now?

Keep up the good work,.....nearly there now!

Tony O

Cheers Tony,

John said he was making more radiators blocks and props, but not sure when they will be available.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya Neil,

You probably won`t like this mate but I hand paint the frame lines on my glazing using a fine brush and clear up any wobbly bits with a wooden cocktail stick! I hate masking! Your Halibag looks wonderful by the way and hopefully I`ll be decalling mine tonight,

Cheers

Tony O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys.

There is a fundemental mistake though, the Mk II seems to have a clear bit on the left hand side above the instrument panel that I haven't included and I think Revell have got wrong in terms of how the frames come down and round the side. They seem to have a MkIII cockpit which appears to have been revised, although someone else maybe able to advise more correctly.

I was thinkning of putting a triangular 'black' bit in to represent this.

Tony, I started out by using decal strips on the cockpit, but resorted to the same method as you. I think it's time for a new brush as it kept spleying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got her finished although I lost the landing light in the carpet monster so I'll have to make a new one !

Thread HERE

Many thanks to everyone for all your help along the way, it's all been really appreciated and made the build all the more fun for the interaction.

Cheers

Neil

DSC03378.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your finished Halibag is stunning Neil, that just leaves me to finish my lovechild off now.

Ever since I bought the Midland Counties book `From Hull Hell And Halifax' by Chris Blanchett about 4 Group which has a beautiful painting of a 102 Sqn Halifax with late war Yellow edged Red code letters on the cover I`ve always fancied doing a model in this scheme so a recent Xtradecal sheet was used to depict PP206/ DY-P of 102 Sqn even though this option doesn`t actually appear on the kit instructions!! Using a process of elimination the decals were identified on the sheet and an e mail to Hannants brought a reply with some artwork for this version attached and this was printed off. A photo of the real aircraft was found in the Profile book for the Hercules engined Halibag versions to use as reference but as it features the machine after it had been retired to a Maintence Unit prior to scrapping in 1946 the fuselage serial has been painted out and there is no serial provided in the sheet either which is a shame. The relevant serial decals had to be sourced from a generic Aviaology sheet, and a generic Modeldecal sheet had to be used for the code letter `P' which was applied to the front of the undercarriage legs, although yellow edged codes would probably be more accurate, beggars cannot be choosers! It is a real pity that this machine appears not to have worn nose art as the large nose area of the glass nosed Halifax is just screaming out for this, but I did add a few `speculative' bombs under the navs window.

haliupdatedecals.jpg

Unfortunately when it came to applying the White underwing serials which were painted onto the real aircraft after VE Day the decals were found to be far too small and underscale, which is a shame, especially as the artwork that I`d been sent by Hannants showed them to be the correct size! Here the decal, instruction artwork and the real aircraft can be compared. I`m trying to find alternative decals but it looks as if I`ll have to leave them off, which is a real bummer as I`d wanted to include these! Another thing, don`t use the decal instructions as a reference for the exhaust locations as they were different on the Mk.VI to those shown.

haliupdatecodes.jpg

All of the various individual parts are now ready to add once the model has been matt varnished and weathered and bearing in mind what I`d read on this and other threads earlier I removed quite a bit of plastic from the bottom rim of the mid upper turret to reduce its profile once fitted and the inside of the ring was also reduced to allow the guns to be raised as otherwise they can only be mounted horizontally.

For the exhaust locations, looking from the front with an `O' for the engine front and an `x' for the exhaust;

-those on the B.III were xO xO xO Ox

-those for the B.VI were Ox xO xO Ox

I hope that this makes sense?

All being well I should be finished in a couple of days so all the best for now,

Tony O

Edited by tonyot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately when it came to applying the White underwing serials which were painted onto the real aircraft after VE Day the decals were found to be far too small and underscale, which is a shame, especially as the artwork that I`d been sent by Hannants showed them to be the correct size! Here the decal, instruction artwork and the real aircraft can be compared. I`m trying to find alternative decals but it looks as if I`ll have to leave them off, which is a real bummer as I`d wanted to include these! Another thing, don`t use the decal instructions as a reference for the exhaust locations as they were different on the Mk.VI to those shown.

They may be too small, but they do add to the character, I'd prefer to use them if I couldn't find an alternative. If you hadn't of told me they were undersize, I wouldn't of noticed :)

John, I'll snap up a set of those props (well maybe a few sets :) )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not made much progress, but some is better than nothing !

Lined the unprofessionally cut hole in the top wing with some plasticard ready to lay some Miliput. This will be done in two stages, the first to level the wing off, the second to mould a new fairing. Doing it this way should give me better control over accuracy....famous last words !!!

DSCF0384.jpg

Also cut a suitable sized hole out in the wing where the new Revell u/c will sit and started to line it. A bit of scratch building will be necessary to recreate the frame work on which the u/c sits as the Revell part is too wide

DSCF0382.jpg

I've filed the thickness of the plasticard down since the pic was taken as it's a bit thick. The wing spar fouls the plasticard, so a couple of mm will need taking off the end of the spar to cure it.

Hi

I saw this article after I bought my Halifax and realised all was not well with the engines. Luckily I had a spare Matchbox example lying around and like you realised that the outer engines were too high. I adopted a slightly different approach in that I removed the rear hump from the wing in total, filed the wing upper joint under the hump down about 1.5 mm and then attached it to the engine cowling. Added the plastic card to the to drop the the entire nacelle as you did but when attaching I achieved the effect that the entire engine, including the rear of the hump, had "sunk" into the wing. I then filled the resulting gap with Pratley's putty (South African equivalent of milliput which I swear by). This gave me a lot less area on the top of the wing to get level and relieved me of having to mould a new hump. Accuracy? Cant say for certain but it does look a lot more like the picture now. One day i will figure out how to attach pictures

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...