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1/350 Nagato + Lionroar


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Thanks very much for the nice comments gentlemen, its certainly appreciated!

Well finally... I have the superstructure done. Here a couple pics of the top deck and the total ss subassembly:

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Thanks for viewing my post! Comments and suggestions are welcome. -Tim

Edited by ComfortablyNumb
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Well I've got to take my hat off to you, the naked PE look certainly is impressive- as long as it's done the way you've done it.

I'm still struggling to see how clean you keep your gluing, try as I might there's always some slight splurge or overrun around smaller parts.

Looks magnificent, really does.

Al

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I'm still struggling to see how clean you keep your gluing, try as I might there's always some slight splurge or overrun around smaller parts.

Hi Al bud! Thanks for your comments, and Dave as well. The method I use for glueing is rather simple I'm sorry to say (I wish I had a BIG revelation to make hehe, but I don't unfortunately) ...small amounts of pva glue applied with a toothpick, usually to the part itself vs the model.

Most excess pva almost "disappears" as it dries and becomes opaque, transmitting the color underneath mostly.

Sometimes, in glueing railing posts for example, where I have sometimes had to repeatedly reposition and re-apply the glue to the same posts, a visable build up will occur...in this case, PVA glue's flexibility versus CA's hardnesss can come into play. IE: If you can get to the part before the pva cures (16-24 hrs), it is relatively easy to remove the glue buildup from the part and start again clean. You cant do that with CA as easily! Removing the pva does also remove any paint already applied however (which is a BIG DRAG when you are building in the sequence I am) but I know 99% of pe application takes place prior to painting, so thats not an issue for most folks.

There are sort of 2 keys to working with PVA glues I have found...due to its initial weak strength compared to CA, curing time is important. Also, if the bottle is at any time exposed to freezing temps prior to application (in shipping the glue to hobby shops or to your house) the product is useless.

**edit (one thing that has occured to me and I dont know if its true or not...I am small framed (5'8", 145) and my hands are relatively small (compared to some of the big, whopping meathook hands my golfing buddies have hehe) and that may be an advantage, I'm not sure. I also like to use a new blade for every session, filing off brass attachment stubs on some of the small parts is VERY difficult without mangling the part, so a clean, close cut is to be valued for one's sanity. I also use a black acrylic sheet to cut on, as the brass stands out very well and my blades last MUCH longer than using glass to cut on. I use Xacto's new Z-Blades as well) Interestingly, I cannot drink caffeinated coffee prior to going to the bench. It makes my hands shake slightly, so decaf if you're having a cup of jo while working ;) )

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Thx again for your questions, I appreciate the interest... and long live britmodeller.com! -Tim

Edited by ComfortablyNumb
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Thanks Tim for the info on how you manage such miracles with etch, what you consider a small simple fact is a major revelation to me, I never thought to use PVA to glue etch, I've always fought with cyano and cursed the stuff for sticking the etch to everything but the kit.

Thanks for showing us your incredible build.

Cheers,

Stuart

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Thanks a lot for that mini tutorial Tim, as usual the key is clean and careful work!

Currently I'm using a combination of superglue gel, thin CA, GS Hypo cement and Gator Grip. Perhaps i should just play the patience game and stick to using the Grip, it does dry almost invisibly.

Al

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Thanks for the nice words guys! Anyway, have the main searchlight decks and high-angle gun controllers done this week. Please pardon the 8 pics, but due to size and placement difficulties of the pe and most of the railings, this was a most challenging section. I hope you like my searchlights! Cheers!

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Thanks for viewing my post -Tim

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You must be Edward Tweezerhands!

Haha! Thanks PHaTNesS!

Hi guys and thanks for viewing my post. I have the rear bridge superstructure done, it contains a major antenna array that was challenging...I had to build most of it upside down, as can be seen in the first picture. Your comments and suggestions are most welcome! -Tim

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Here is the rest of the rear-bridge nearly completed:

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