Jump to content

1/350 Nagato + Lionroar


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Don't have anything major to show this week, have been working on the rear deck, which looks alot like the foredeck... so I stuck the major subassemblies together for a couple of update pics. The subassemblies are just laying in place, not glued or fully fitted, but I also wanted to get an idea of how much work I had left - 3 decks of railings, 3 planes, 6 utility boats, two major cranes...there's still a ways to go I guess. But heres a couple of pics of the peices (sort of) in place ;) Thanks for your interest! -Tim

IMG_1384.jpg

IMG_1378.jpg

railings2.jpg

IMG_1385.jpg

IMG_1386.jpg

IMG_1387.jpg

IMG_1375.jpg

IMG_1374.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tim, your Nagato is looking great! Shows it off well seeing your progress in place, must have been a little tricky picking up the bits though.

I must say a big THANK YOU for sharing your gluing secrets. I have used Clearfix canopy glue for a lot of my etch, but I must try to use it better as you have shown us. I am doing a Dreadnought at the moment, so I will have plenty of practice.

I also think your decision to leave the etch unpainted is a good idea, and she will look brilliant.

All the best, Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very impressed and inspired with your work (as well as the other builders on this site). I only returned to the hobby a couple of years ago, after nearly 25 years (kids, work, and no place acceptable to the wife to build). I am learning to love/hate PE. Your PE work is amazing and inspires me to work harder. But a question. I know some things have different names in the UK and the US, so,is what you call PVA what we call white glue ? A slightly thick, white glue that can be thinned with water and is usually used with wood or ceramics. It's slow to dry, drys clear, and not as hard and shiney as CA glues. Once again, great work and yes, leave the PE unpainted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jimbuna, Ray and jw...thanks for your kind words!...and jw, yes, pva and white glue are one and the same for the most part. The formulations amongst the brands vary slightly...my favorite, due to its texture and workability, is Gator Glue but I have used carpenter's white glue and Elmer's. I use very little CA as I dislike the "finality" of c razy glue. PVA allows easier part removal, cleanup and part re-use should that become necessary. Curing time is longer than CA, but that often works to advantage as well should a mistake be made. I highly recommend Gator for PE.

gators.jpg

Thanks for your questions and comments! -Tim/Canada

Edited by ComfortablyNumb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

ComfortablyNumb

Thumbs up! Really nice work you put into IJN Nagato.

Has among others Fujimi 1:700 kit here on the shelf but do not know if I should acquire a wooden deck. Well, thanks for the great photographs and text.

Regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Al bud! Thanks for your comments, and Dave as well. The method I use for glueing is rather simple I'm sorry to say (I wish I had a BIG revelation to make hehe, but I don't unfortunately) ...small amounts of pva glue applied with a toothpick, usually to the part itself vs the model.

Most excess pva almost "disappears" as it dries and becomes opaque, transmitting the color underneath mostly.

Sometimes, in glueing railing posts for example, where I have sometimes had to repeatedly reposition and re-apply the glue to the same posts, a visable build up will occur...in this case, PVA glue's flexibility versus CA's hardnesss can come into play. IE: If you can get to the part before the pva cures (16-24 hrs), it is relatively easy to remove the glue buildup from the part and start again clean. You cant do that with CA as easily! Removing the pva does also remove any paint already applied however (which is a BIG DRAG when you are building in the sequence I am) but I know 99% of pe application takes place prior to painting, so thats not an issue for most folks.

There are sort of 2 keys to working with PVA glues I have found...due to its initial weak strength compared to CA, curing time is important. Also, if the bottle is at any time exposed to freezing temps prior to application (in shipping the glue to hobby shops or to your house) the product is useless.

**edit (one thing that has occured to me and I dont know if its true or not...I am small framed (5'8", 145) and my hands are relatively small (compared to some of the big, whopping meathook hands my golfing buddies have hehe) and that may be an advantage, I'm not sure. I also like to use a new blade for every session, filing off brass attachment stubs on some of the small parts is VERY difficult without mangling the part, so a clean, close cut is to be valued for one's sanity. I also use a black acrylic sheet to cut on, as the brass stands out very well and my blades last MUCH longer than using glass to cut on. I use Xacto's new Z-Blades as well) Interestingly, I cannot drink caffeinated coffee prior to going to the bench. It makes my hands shake slightly, so decaf if you're having a cup of jo while working ;) )

CUTOFFLARGE_1.jpg

Thx again for your questions, I appreciate the interest... and long live britmodeller.com! -Tim

many thanks for the very useful PEtch tips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jimbuna, Ray and jw...thanks for your kind words!...and jw, yes, pva and white glue are one and the same for the most part. The formulations amongst the brands vary slightly...my favorite, due to its texture and workability, is Gator Glue but I have used carpenter's white glue and Elmer's. I use very little CA as I dislike the "finality" of c razy glue. PVA allows easier part removal, cleanup and part re-use should that become necessary. Curing time is longer than CA, but that often works to advantage as well should a mistake be made. I highly recommend Gator for PE.

gators.jpg

Thanks for your questions and comments! -Tim/Canada

can also reccomend formula 560

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I grudgingly admit it does look excellent with unpainted PE!

It's a grand job altogether, and you've been very generous sharing your techniques.

:clap2:

Al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hello Tim, oddly enough I had just been wondering how you had got on with this beaut! You have done a cracking job on her, and I applaud your choice of leaving the etch unpainted, it makes for a really stunning finish.

Look forward to the next one! (bare etch again or painted?).

All the best, regards, Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simply stunning! It is wierd seeing all that bare brass around the painted ship but it works in a very beautiful way. I would love to have a build like that but I don't think I have the will power to leave etch unpainted. I have spent hours just looking at this. well done! :popcorn: Jockster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank-you Joe, Mark, Ray,Jim, Jock and Mike!

And Ray, thanks for asking...my next ship (USS Iwo Jima LDH-7) will be in a regular finish, that is...more realistic versus the "stylistic" approach I tried here. I have had many gracious comments from visitors that have seen the model in person that it is quite attractive in appearance (especially from women for some reason) so I will probably do a companionJapaneseheavy cruiser, or maybe a full-blown US Iowa class battleship, in the same manner - to fill up that upper shelf in the display case. :)

But first, I want to do a carrier in manner like the great Louis Carabott:

DSCF1581_edited.jpg

I can only hope :)

Let me know what you think! In the meantime, one last pic of the Brass Nagato and thank-you all again for following my build! This is a great board with wonderful members and I am happy to be part of the community here! -Tim/Canada

IMG_8522-vi.jpg

Edited by ComfortablyNumb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...