fidgeh Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 (edited) I've started the stash, now it's actually time to, gulp, build something. I intend using a liquid PlasticWeld - type glue, here's the (hypothetical) scenario - I've done a dry fit of the fuselage halves, and they're a good fit. So do I fit them together, run a brushful of liquid cement along the seam allowing capillary action to suck the glue into the seams, and then hope the paint covers the glue mark? Or try and sand the glue marks out, or use a different glue altogether ( I do have horrible memories of the thicker, stringy stuff), Or a completely different technique? If any of the experts on here would be willing to pass on a few of their techniques I would be extremely grateful. Thank you. Edited November 19, 2011 by fidgeh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 (edited) For neatness I use Plastic Weld for about 99% of joints - for reasons you've stated - a lot neater than tube glue! It's very unusual to not to have to sand back the seams afterwards though - only occasionally where the joint falls along a joint on the real thing and the fit is very good. Worth getting a mixed pack of wet and dry abrasives from Halfords. However - there are always going to be times where you need to apply glue to a part to joint to something else and, perhaps, won't have access to apply liquid solvent using a brush - for these circumstances I use Revell Contacta in the nice little bottle with an applicator needle. Really good stuff! Iain Edited November 19, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotorheadtx Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 I use Tamiya extra-thin liquid cement, the green-top stuff with the brush in the bottle-top. Method of application is just as you describe, then follow with a light sanding of 600 grit paper to clean up any glue marks. Works a treat so long as the dry-fit is good. If you have gaps, the thin stuff will not help, and you have to fill in with CA (superglue) of a filler of your choice (Milliput, Mr. Surfacer, etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 worth using a scalpel blade to force a superglue/talc paste into the seam after glueing then sand down. this will fill any latent crack that exists. thoroughly effective, easy to sand but scribes without cracking, doesn't shrink etc. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I've started the stash, now it's actually time to, gulp, build something.I intend using a liquid PlasticWeld - type glue If any of the experts on here would be willing to pass on a few of their techniques I would be extremely grateful. Thank you. Hi fidgeh Google "Spruecutters" Or search for Them on you tube they are From Singapore I think and use Tamiya extra thin (Green Cap) Briefly dry fit as always then Place the two halfs to be glued together leave a slight gap run a thin bead of extra thin and use capillary action down the seam then wait about 10 seconds to let the glue soften the plastic a bit then put together and gently squeeze if you have done it right the excess glue will ooze out a thin bead of plastic and chemically seal the two halves as it works by slightly melting the plastic then you can clean up the joint with some abrasive or get some finishing sanding sponges phil flory and Paul Little cars sell the finishing sponges this works even with a slightly bad join although obviously not a big gap watch the video all will hopefully become clearer Tamiya extra thin is strong stuff do not apply too much as you will possibly melt more than just the seam (I melted some Italeri Tank tracks doing this ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin77 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I use Mr Hobby- Mr Cement, which is a glass bottle with the brush attatched to the lid. Used it for years and never had any problems. And like said earlier your always best sanding the joints for a better finish to the model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon G Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 As above . . liquid glue is my weapon of choice. Leave at least 24 hours before you try to sand the joints. Si. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fidgeh Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Many thanks for the replies - they're much appreciated. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) Above all mate, enjoy building! That's the point of it and there are plenty people here who will happily help out. You just have to ask! Oh and show us how your build is going. Edited November 21, 2011 by Murdo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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