gcn Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Seams are my real problem, no matter what I do they always stubbornly refuse to disappear. I managed to get hold of some Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 in the jar after reading good reports of its seam filling capabilities. I find I dab it on until the seam has disappeared sand away till it looks ok prime and the bloody thing is back. I usually use CA but that can be a bugger to sand away and I have real trouble getting the panel lines consistant. tips most appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 I was having similar problems and was trying out the supposed miracle cure that is Mr. Surfacer. I've returned to using CA glue and it's working a treat. As long as you sand the CA as soon as it's set, you should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 The main problem when using CA as filler is that it dries harder than plastic, thus making sanding and rescribing a very "painful" task, with lots of elbow grease involved. The only thing to have in mind when using CA as filler is avoid letting it curing for more than 10 or 15 minutes...the longer it cures, the harder it gets... Another way to fill seas is using elted plastic......Get an old liquid cement tinlet with about 1/3 of liquid cement inside, and add some pieces of sprue. Let it melt and then use it as a filler...it works for me (soeties, when Murphy's Laws don't come to the playground).... Cheers..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdxtnt Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 After your Mr Surfacer has set hard, instead of sanding it down, try rubbing it down with Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) on a piece of kitchen towel. You can get a nice smooth finish that way, without losing any of the moulded on surface detail in the surrounding area. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 After your Mr Surfacer has set hard, instead of sanding it down, try rubbing it down with Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) on a piece of kitchen towel. You can get a nice smooth finish that way, without losing any of the moulded on surface detail in the surrounding area.Gary Yes, thats what I do - works really well, and avoids sanding. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdxtnt Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 I find the trick with the Mr Surfacer is not to dab it on until the seam is covered but to paint it on over the seam in a broad smooth band. It often takes takes 2 or 3 coats until the seam is covered and then you use the IPA and kitchen towel to blend the edges of the Mr Surfacer level with the surface of the kit plastic. If you rub too hard you will just remove all of the Mr Surfacer and you will be back to square one. The same technique can also be used to fill gaps (eg wing root joins) using IPA and Mr White filler. So much easier than using the traditional fill, sand and rescribe way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 ok thanks for the tips i'll try the brush it on method. I take it you don't wait for it to dry before starting the wiping off process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdxtnt Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 ok thanks for the tips i'll try the brush it on method. I take it you don't wait for it to dry before starting the wiping off process No, wait for it to dry hard first or you will just wipe it off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 The main problem when using CA as filler is that it dries harder than plastic, thus making sanding and rescribing a very "painful" task, with lots of elbow grease involved. The only thing to have in mind when using CA as filler is avoid letting it curing for more than 10 or 15 minutes...the longer it cures, the harder it gets...Another way to fill seas is using elted plastic......Get an old liquid cement tinlet with about 1/3 of liquid cement inside, and add some pieces of sprue. Let it melt and then use it as a filler...it works for me (soeties, when Murphy's Laws don't come to the playground).... Cheers..... Sorry to ask but Revells contacta glue in the bottle (the liquid form) can do the same work as the liquid cement you are mentioning mate? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 Sorry to ask but Revells contacta glue in the bottle (the liquid form) can do the same work as the liquid cement you are mentioning mate?Thanks Not sure, I haven't tried it with Revell's liquid cement...just did it with an old Molak "Fiss" tinlet and an old Tamiya Extra Thin....I'd say YES, that should work with Revell's contacta since they seem to be quite similar products, but don't want to assure you so since I have't tried it by myself...!! Cheers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 For how long do you keep the plastic in the bottle? Will i notice anything after a couple of hours? I am asking just to see if i put the plastic in not to wait for days and nothing happen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 (edited) When I did it the sprues were gloopy after a couple of hours. I used a mix of glue ( Revell Contacta ) and a few drops of cellulose thinners to help get it started. HTH Peter Edited October 29, 2008 by Peter Marshall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stalal Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 If you use paint brush to put on Mr Surfacer, how do you clean the paint brush after use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 If you use paint brush to put on Mr Surfacer, how do you clean the paint brush after use? Following advice I got from a kindly trader at the Nats, I clean my Mr Surfacer brush in liquid polystyrene cement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngloSaxon Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 (edited) If you use paint brush to put on Mr Surfacer, how do you clean the paint brush after use? Cellulose thinners is the cheap method, or alternatively, buy some Mr. Color Thinner. Just make sure it is Mr .Color Thinner (lacquer based) though and not Hobby Color Thinner (water based). Mike. Edited August 9, 2012 by AngloSaxon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fu_manchu Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 One thing to watch, if you prime; filler is porus, plastic is not, so sometimes what looks like a bad fill is simply where the primer has soaked in, try another couple of coats then a very very light sand over the area to blend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaintsPhil Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I've recently switched from Mr Surfacer to Mr Disolved Putty, seems easier to sand than Mr Surfacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goggsy Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 (edited) I've been going through the exact same thing as the original poster, and have been experimenting with ways of dealing with it. I'm building an Academy C97 at the moment and am going to do the whole alclad NMF thing so need to have this sussed. I usually do the CA thing but am a bit fed up with it because of all the sanding needed, so have tried Mr Dissolved Putty. To be honest I've experimented with this before and found it fairly un-useful for the reasons described above with Mr Surfacer but recently tried something a bit different that has worked quite well. Instead of just painting a thin strip along the seam I did a stripe about 1cm wide; this is allowed to cure for about 20 mins and then sanded as appropriate. Because the stripe is quite wide it allows you to feather edge it properly while leaving a decent coverage in the middle. It sands and polishes very finely and has worked really well on the bit I've just done. A coat of Alclad primer on top that is then polished and bang, the seam is gone. This is a bit like the technique outlined in someone's post above, but sanding rather than wiping; I prefer the polish you can get from fine paper. I think if you only do a thin strip of it then the action of the sandpaper drags it out of the seam; a broad thickish coat will cover well and disappear so long as you feather edge it properly. Edited August 18, 2012 by goggsy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 The melted plastic in a wee pot is very useful. Another method is to buy the very thin strips of Styrene such as Evergreen and Plastruct sell. lay a strip along the seam and use Revell liquid cement or Tamiya Extra Thin to "melt" the strip in place, then gently sand it flat. You can also make these thin strips from stretched sprue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickR Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I recently started using Mr Dissolved Putty instead of Mr Surfacer for deeper filling. At first I used the same method as previously, ie building up in layers, then getting the majority off with Mr Thinner and then sanding flat. I have found a slightly better way of using Dissolved Putty in that I put a good blob on where I want it then gently work it into the seam/panel line/rescribing mistake with a toothpick. As it cures/dries it becomes more putty like and workable. It does cure quicker than waiting for it, doesn't need building up in layers and can, therefore, be sanded sooner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaddy Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Where's the best place to source IPA these days? I hear Boots no longer stock it. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I bought mine from my local ironmongers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fu_manchu Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I get mine from ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 One thing to watch, if you prime; filler is porus, plastic is not, so sometimes what looks like a bad fill is simply where the primer has soaked in, try another couple of coats then a very very light sand over the area to blend. Plus the fact that fillers vary. Some will just dissolve if you get any liquid near them. Revells is good as is Milliput or Green/White Stuff but don't go near Vallejo or Humbrol. For fine filling, those little Tippex precision dispensers are superb. I got a box of 12 off e bay for just a few pounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goggsy Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Plus the fact that fillers vary. Some will just dissolve if you get any liquid near them. Revells is good as is Milliput or Green/White Stuff but don't go near Vallejo or Humbrol. For fine filling, those little Tippex precision dispensers are superb. I got a box of 12 off e bay for just a few pounds. Tamiya paste is good; tbh I've always found Humbrol to be ok but Green/White stuff to be all horrid and gritty. Different folks different strokes I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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