Deanflyer Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 Right, something to see at last. Having gone well past the 40 hour mark, the wings are finally on. There's been a lot of little bits of detailing to do first, like toning down the rivets and panel lines, building the bomb, masking the canopy (nightmare) and attending to the badly moulded landing light. The prop has been painted, but the yellow spinner stripe will need redoing, as there was some bleeding of the green under the tape. Don't usually have that happen with Tamiya tape. It'll only be carrying the fuselage bomb, as the underwing bomb racks in photoetch are too nicely detailed to cover up... However, here she is after a strategic coat of Alclad Steel on the wing roots, leading edges and access hatches: The salt for chipping purposes has been added and is drying as we speak. Once it's dry I'll add a coat of RLM02 as a primer colour, to hold it in place. Then it'll be salt again, and I can get on with my favourite bit - painting. Getting there, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Looking good Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 For some reason I've not seen this one before. Lots of fun progress... have you toned down the rivets a bit yet, or is that still to do? btw - where did you see the real Stuka? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 Hi Mike. I've toned the rivets down, possibly a bit too far in places. I had a good walk round the Hendon Stuka a couple of weeks ago, and the wing rivets are quite noticeable: I think I may have gone too far with the wings, and maybe not far enough with the fuselage - but it's better than it was in the rivet replacement shots. Let's see what it all looks like under a couple of coats of paint. Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyL Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Thats coming together nicely. And I'm sure that when its done, it'll be like your other builds - excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Looking good so far. Can't wait to see her in full colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Hi Mike. I've toned the rivets down, possibly a bit too far in places. I had a good walk round the Hendon Stuka a couple of weeks ago, and the wing rivets are quite noticeable: I think I may have gone too far with the wings, and maybe not far enough with the fuselage - but it's better than it was in the rivet replacement shots. Let's see what it all looks like under a couple of coats of paint. Cheers, Dean That's why I prefer the Airfix kits to either the Hasegawa or Fujimi ones - they're just too smooth! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Right then progress has been made. Once the wings went on, I could get on with the painting side of things, my favourite bit. The salt chipping was a disaster, with the salt either not sticking or forming large clumps, so I washed it all off and used dots of Maskol instead. I painted RLM02 over this, and added more dots of Maskol, some over the top of the existing ones. The plan is that when the dots are removed, some chips will be bare metal, some will be only down to the primer, and some will be bare metal with primer visible around the edges. Let's see how it goes. I preshaded the underside, although it's a technique I've had little success with in the past. Practice as they say... Then a coat of Vallejo RLM65. The preshading is only just visible, and probably not visible at all in the photos. That's what we're aiming for, though: Then the underside was masked off and the top coat of dark green was applied: After that had dried, I spent over two hours and about 300 yards of Tamiya tape masking off the splinter pattern. The Revell instructions were no help, as the pictures were tiny and the pattern didn't match up from one view to another. I ended up masking in front of my computer, while trawling reference sources on the internet. No wonder the Germans lost the BoB - they were too busy trying to figure out complicated camouflage patterns! Anyway, a coat of black green later, and it now looks like this: Next step will be to align the ailerons/flaps with the wing and mask off the splinter pattern onto them. Then I'll do some post shading on the greens and it'll be ready for gloss coating. Still got to do some fiddely bits like building the PE radiator vanes, adapting the machine gun and masking off the rear canopy, but we're getting there. Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 ...and very nice it's looking too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Thanks Mike. Fingers crossed to see how the paint chipping comes out. By the way, looking at the taglines at the bottom of your posts, I need to correct you - there are actually 11 types of people...those who understand Roman numerals, and those who don't! Also, in your peace-in-many-languages line, you might like to add "hedd" (Welsh). Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Ooooh this looks lovely, cracking job on the pre-shading, barely visible, just like it shoud be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 I had a bit of spare time today, so I had a go at postshading the upper surfaces by darkening the panel lines. It's amazing what different lighting conditions can show up - I had to look hard under artificial light to see the shading, in natural daylight it was just visible, and under a flash it looks more obvious: Look at the difference between the previous camo shot which was taken under natural daylight, and this one. That's why I don't worry too much about correct clours - it changes from one minute to the next. The propellor in the background was painted with the same paint as the greyish colour on the camouflage! Next up is the gloss coat - then I can get some decalling done. Won't be for a while yet though. Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Nice work Dean. Now then on the back of your bench I can see a speed loader with rounds for a revolver, a hand grenade and a rather large knife. Is there something you're not telling us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Oops. That'll teach me to crop my photos a bit more carefully in future! The speedloaders (how the hell did you know what they were?) are a keepsake from the days when we were trusted to have revolvers. The grenade was something I used to use as a paperweight at work, intended to keep irritating people at bay and the knife was for stabbing those who didn't take the hint. You didn't spot the back end of the .50 calibre shell, then? Let's just say I have a collection of interesting things, (most of which are no more dangerous than the ball of string also in the picture - before I get the "six o'clock knock"!) built up over many years. Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Ahh yes can see the .50 cal now. How do I know about speed loaders? I've fired a few rounds of various calibres in my time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted September 27, 2008 Author Share Posted September 27, 2008 I've not had much time for modelling lately, but I'm still plodding along. I had a long hard look at the paint chipping I'd done on the underside of the nose, and decided that I'd overdone it. I rubbed it back and did it again with more subtle chipping - it's still a bit heavy around the gun hatches, but I'm just going to live with that. I also used the chipping technique on the wheel spats and the spinner, which necessitated going over them with Alclad as they'd already been painted. Lesson learned today - Alclad DOES go over Vallejo acrylics with no ill effects. Handy to know. I scuffed up the wing root walkways with a tool I got from Halfords - it's a small brush with glass fibre bristles, and works a treat for wearing away at paint with good accuracy. I wore through to the rivets in some places, and generally dirtied it up in others, although the glosscoat kills the effect a bit until the matt coat goes on. The gloss coat also reflected the flash and highlighted the rivets - they don't all stand out so starkly in real life, honest!: I got the gloss coat on today, so that can be curing overnight: Amazing how that flash shows up the postshading so vividly! Who knows, might get some decals on tomorrow! Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Nice work Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 WOW!!! Its amazing mate!!! Great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stebos Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 I'll have to look out for one of those brushes. As for the stuka, it's coming on good, the pre-shading was judged just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 This thing is putting up a fight in the closing stages... I decalled it yesterday, and the Revell decals were like cardboard - they went on very thick, were virtually impervious to microsol, and seemed to be on the verge of cracking the whole time. The red stencils were printed out of register with the white underneath them rendering them useless, so I'm going to deal with this by the cunning ruse of leaving them off and hoping nobody notices. The single colour stencils were useable, but they seem to have silvered horribly. Have a look at the small stencils fore and aft of the fuselage codes: They're going to have to come off, I reckon. In contrast, the fuselage codes were 21st Century Toys decals kindly sent to me by Erwin (cheers mate) and went on a treat. You can see the difference in this shot too, the yellow shield is 21st, the stencils are Revell: Apart from the problems with decals, the radiator photoetched parts proved impossible to assemble properly. It was just too fiddly, and after a long attempt, I decided to resort to the kit part. Good job I decided to see if the PE parts would assemble properly before I ground all the detail off the kit part! In an earlier weathering attempt I used salt crystals, but decided against it and washed them off. It looks like some of the salt got underneath the photoetched wing walk surfaces and has started reacting with the brass. There is a now a greenish blue corrosion around the edge of the wing walk on the starboard wing which I'm going to have to disguise with some repainting and weathering. Funny how things go wrong in threes, isn't it? Anyway, this is how she stands at the moment: Still to do: mask and paint the rear canopy, detail the machine gun, paint and weather the exhausts, final assembly of fiddly bits and matt coat. I'm working away a lot over the next few weeks, so I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that I get it finished before the deadline... Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Looks magnificent Dean, the chipping looks incredibly authentic and the rivets look so real, even under the gloss coat. I really can't wait to see this finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Lovely. Two questions and an observation: 1) How'd you get the pre-shading lines so straight? 2) How'd you do your post-shading? 3) I hope the fit of the tailplanes is good and won't require any filler or sanding! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanflyer Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 Lovely.Two questions and an observation: 1) How'd you get the pre-shading lines so straight? 2) How'd you do your post-shading? 3) I hope the fit of the tailplanes is good and won't require any filler or sanding! Nick Hi Nick, in response: Firstly, thanks (and you too John - I can't wait to see it finished either!) 1) I use very thin matt black paint, and use multiple passes for each line. I find that if you use thick paint so you cover in one pass, any tremble of the wrist results in a wiggly line - with multiple passes, one tremble = no noticeable effect. If you tremble every time, I can't help you there! I also only work from side to side, so I turn the model to line up with the panel line in the right plane for me - I can't do vertical strokes as easily. 2) Post shading is exactly the same - I put some thinners in the paint cup, mix the paint in the jar with a thin stick and then literally clean the stick off by swilling it around in the paint cup. You don't need any more paint in the mixture than that, and I used black on the green upper surfaces with a bit of brown mixed in for the blue undersides. VERY thin paint is the key, especially on the lighter colours. I overdid darkening a couple of panel lines on the underside of the fuselage, and it only took a couple of passes with the light blue to tone it down again. I also use the same mixture of black/brown to darken the paint behind the radiator outlet, as oil and all sorts gets mixed with the air here and tends to stain lightly and evenly. Same on the topside oil cooler outlet if you look at the pics... 3) Forethought and planning! Don't worry, I've already test fitted the tailplanes to make sure that I wouldn't have to disturb the paint work. I've left them off so far as applying decals such as stencils underneath them would be a lot more tricky with them and their struts in place. Thanks for the interest, hope that helps. Cheers, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Nice work Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 (edited) Lovely looking god Dean. Edited October 4, 2008 by Erwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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